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Volkswagen Passat Fuse and Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    but some things seem to be related to CCM (computer convinience module ?). It sits under the driver's seat ;-) and is prone to flooding.
    It is expensive piece of electronics.

    Krzys

    x3
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I think you're right. The CCM would be my prime suspect. Conversely, I recall reading another thread on another forum about a bad ground causing an endless stream of similar electrical failures on a Golf, so it could be that, too.
  • swingdancermanswingdancerman Member Posts: 1
    I have an 2001; 1.8 litr passat with standard Transmission.
    When I turn off the dash lights the tail lights turn off, is this normal?
    Regards,
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Yes.
  • rscharlierrscharlier Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 VW Passat and over the past few weeks, I have had an issue with my key fob and starting the car. I would go to start the car in the morning, but when I push the fob in to start the engine, it does not start (not even turn over). On my information display, it reads Immobilizer Active and the key fob remains stuck. It goes in and pops partially out, but does not fully release. The dealer told me how to get the key fob out when it is stuck, but once I did that and tried to start the car, I encountered the same problem. I tried this with both key fobs and had the same problem. The radio works while the fob is stuck, but no engine. I even tried getting out, locking the car, then unlocking it to see if it would alleviate the Immobilizer problem, but to no avail. Finally, three hours later, I went back out, tried it and the car started normally! I'm not sure if it is temperature related or not. It was about 9 degree Fahrenheit in the morning and warmer three hours later (but not by much). The dealer now has the car, but no diagnostic codes are coming up and they are trying to recreate the problem. Funny how it never messes up when at a dealer. Anyways, has anyone ever encountered this problem and know of a solution? Thanks.
  • gcgee02gcgee02 Member Posts: 2
    i'm having the same problem but all my problmes are power issues, like power windows don't roll down and if they do i have to keep pressing on the button several times (very fast) and i can not operate my locks or trunk with my remote key i have to do it manually nor will my sunroof open
    and for my lateless trick my turn signal lights will not come on but my harzdous lights come on.... go figure i guess
    were having the same problem i will let my longtime mechanic know of the Comfort Control Module thanks a million
  • gcgee02gcgee02 Member Posts: 2
    whatz the estimated cost for the CCM to be replace ;)
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Member Posts: 116
    Bad gound circuit somewhere. Or perhaps a ground was disconnected before the power side of the circuit was, causeing damage.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    Hi !

    My temperature gauge got mind of its own. Sometimes it stays at lowest position and never moves (air vent blows hot, HOT, air). Sometimes it works normal.
    Have anybody heard about termometer going bad? Or is it the gauge cluster? Maybe cables?
    I am not sure it is worth money to pay somebody (dealer?) to troubleshoot it and fix it. I forsee hundreds of dollars spent and no real fix.

    Krzys

    PS I do not want engine to overheat but on the other hand do not want to spend fortune pinpointing spurious problem.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Sounds like the coolant temperature sensor. See repairs here:

    http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/coolanttempsender/

    It's a common issue.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    I will try it.

    Krzys
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    The good news is this is a very inexpensive item, as Passat parts go. Make sure you get the correct color coded unit. Good luck!
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    and I cannot locate this thing. They say it is located at the rear of the engine so I am looking for it near the firewall.

    Krzys
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    1.8T or V6? I can find better pics of the V6. In either case, I think it's pretty much in the same area - did you take off the top engine cover? Admittedly, I haven't looked for this under my own hood, but will if you still need help (I've got the 1.8T). Let me know.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    but I think the crucial part of engine cover removal I did not see.
    Wish me luck later today ;-)

    Krzys
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I think if I were going to do this, I'd buy the sensor, the o ring, and that little metal clip (I can just see that thing zinging off into the nether regions of the engine bay...).
  • mike97passatmike97passat Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my 1997 VW Passat TDI Diesel. I was wondering if you have received any responses. I can be reached at hmmr8@yahoo.com for any information on the correction of my problem.

    Thank You v/r Mike McGlamery
  • mike97passatmike97passat Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my 1997 VW Passat TDI Diesel. I was wondering if you have received any responses. Any information on the correction of my problem?

    Thank You v/r Mike McGlamery
  • matt4257matt4257 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Passat 1.8T. The drivers side tail light was out and I replaced the fuse. After the brake lights and third brake lights remained on and the fuse for the tailight (#23) blew out again. I just got this car and need some help!!I have heard of a brake light switch causing problems?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    The brake light switch is part of an integrated system which includes the ABS and the cruise control.

    Replace the brake light switch. The same thing happened to my wife's 2003 Passat. After the switch was replaced, that resolved the issue.
  • mriehnmriehn Member Posts: 1
    My daughter is away at school and the dealer can't get her in for 2 weeks. Her issue is the electrical items seem to work randomly as she is driving down the road. The horn honks, the lights will go on, the doors will lock and unlock, the alarm will go off. The turn indicators are not working either. All this started yesterday and seems to be progressing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    My first guess would be a wet (or failing) CCM (comfort control module) under the front carpeting (can't remember if under left or right side carpeting at the moment). Water can enter the car if certain drains clog (often the drains under the battery and brake booster, under the hood, near the back, under that black removeable cover are the culprit, but could be the sunroof drains). A wet CCM can cause bizarre electrical issues.

    Second guess would be a failing ground connection.
  • 03pst03pst Member Posts: 1
    Our 2003 wagon often will not start if the temperature is below 32. The engine will not
    turn over. The starter does not even engage. The battery has been replaced. This has
    happened at least 10 times causing us to be late for work and school on cold mornings.
    The car is sitting in a dealers service lot now. They cannot duplicate the event and say
    they cannot help us. Roadside assistance towed the car 68mi to the dealer. We are being asked to come get the car with no fix to the problem and are being asked to pay fora 400.00 40,000 mi service. All power seems fine inside the car when this happens. It seems that the starter is not being activated at all. Later when the temperature warms overfreezing the car starts fine. Sometimes the turn signal flasher relay will make random clicking noises for no reason or continue to click after the signal lever is returned to thecenter position after a turn. I hate to trade this car because Volkwagen can't diagnosean in warranty issue. Any ideas? Thanks
  • rscharlierrscharlier Member Posts: 2
    I just had the same problem with my 2006 Passat and they could not duplicate the problem either. VW Tech assistance told them to apply Stabilant to the ignition switches because the cold weather causes the switches to contract thus not allowing them to be contacted during ignition. The Stabiliant is supposed to allow contact to occur and ignition to happen even when the ignition switch has contracted due to cold. Good luck, not sure if it works on mine or not because unfortunately it is warmer now. I am close to trading it in because I want confidence in a car starting or at least the ability for a correct diagnosis.
  • vicky2007vicky2007 Member Posts: 5
    Hi 95Passat:
    First of all, I wanted to thank you your TIME. I appreciate that you are taking the time to answer and in what way! :) I laughed a lot and it gave me strenght!!! Thanks again.

    So, here's the update:

    1)Went and bought couple of extra fuses. Switched them while crossing my fingers and no luck. :(
    2)Removed successfully the frame! :shades:
    3)Couldn't remove the radio... :( Tried with plyers, presure, everything and it WONT even move. It's very well installed...

    The radio is a Pioner DEH-1300. I don't think it came with the car because I got the manual from the Pioneer Web-site and it doesn't says nothing about a code, thing that I think it's present in the original stereos, am I right? Also, in the manual, it says that to remove the unit I need to use these special keys.

    At my local auto car shop I bought alltogheter with the new fuses the book for my car, and in there too they show you the "keys" to remove the original stereo. Actually, they give you the actual size just in case you are handy cutting metal. I don't know if they are the same.
    I also asked if they sell this: NO. Only for FORD.s>:(

    I asked at a guy in the shop, he owns a repair shop and he said to me that to remove the stereo would take about 45 min. which I know is not true, well, I hope so. Since apparentely, stereos can be put from the front or from the back and be tightly screwed in the case. I guess that if mine was place from the back, this isgetting seriously interesting... I got the book, I can remove the whole thing dash board apart if I want to now!!! :shades:

    I really want to remove the stereo. I guess I'll have to buy these keys somewhere. After all the time pulling and cur&ing, now has become PERSONAL!

    PS: Good job whit the regulator!!!
  • mangup1mangup1 Member Posts: 6
    To all of you that said that my ccm or a bad ground thanks for the help the real problem was with the fuel module under
    the spare tire cuasing all these problems, always check your bus line, thanks : :shades:
  • sxytaz808sxytaz808 Member Posts: 4
    :confuse: hi there i was wondering if there's anyone who can give us info on our problem. we noticed out headlights we;re out the other night and bought new ones. my husband replaced it and still not working. he also checked the fuses and said its good. does anyone have an idea on what our problem might be?

    thanks,
    gina
  • mole2mole2 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a similar experience with my 2003 Passat (85k). Typically the car lives in a warm garage but when it "sleeps" outside, it's 2 for 2 on the no start the next morning. After the first no-start, I replace the battery. After the second no-start, I went to Google. Any updates ?
    Thanks.
  • nojunknojunk Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have the breakdown of the fuse map? The manual is not helpful in that the symbols used on the card chart (taken from the car) have no explanation. Seems silly that I don't know what all these little symbols mean... or does it?

    I am at 70,000 miles and have just experienced a run of problems with my wagen. I have intermittent loss of power... when I push the accelerator to the floor, sometimes the car goes nowhere - but the RPMs rev, and sometimes it goes nowhere without revving at all. Multiple trips to the mechanic has done nothing.

    We've flushed the transmission, the water pump (which was leaking) has been replaced, and the timing belt (since they were in moving things around) has been replaced now.

    Thoughts? :mad:
  • chacer5555chacer5555 Member Posts: 1
    a few things on this car that i just bought very cheap. first the abs light is on and the brake lite is blinking next to it!? i hooked two different scanners to the car to check the code and on both scanners it said error unable to read? also today i fixed two windows that where off track . after i finished i hear a clicking by the fuses and a light that is flashing by the driver side lock and a noise thats seems to be coming from the trunk lock?also i have no blinkers ive checked all the fuses are good! any help would be greatly appc.! thanks chace
  • lazbusalazbusa Member Posts: 2
    HI ALL, I HAVE A 02 PASSAT AND JUST GOT THE SAME PROBLEMS AS MEMBER PASSAT02. keys not communicating with comfort control module.car won't start with master keys or valet key. Door locks, windows, interior lights and trunk release DONT WORK. Battery is connected and powered; stereo, a/c, exterior lights, wipers all work. Fuses appear ok; pulled and reinserted each. Lifted carpet and found no visible evidence of water damage or residue in or around the CCM.


    I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF IS MY CCM FOR SURE AND HOW MUCH HAVE ANY OF U GUYS PAID JUST FOR THE CCM NOT THE LABOR. ANY HELP WOULD BE NICE THANKS.
  • mangup1mangup1 Member Posts: 6
    check your fuel pump module which is located under the spare tire,water damage to this module will cuase no start
    and electric problems.if it is your ccm i have a brand new one for a 2003 passat new in the box.
  • lazbusalazbusa Member Posts: 2
    how much do u want for the ccm and what r the number on top of it
  • vwfirstandlastvwfirstandlast Member Posts: 1
    nojunk, I have the same problem with my 2003 Passat. Just yesterday I noticed a loss of power when accelerating, also I noticed that my brake lights do not work. I'm thinking that both my be linked. Does anyone know about these occurances? I have 58,000 miles on my 2003.
  • mike97passatmike97passat Member Posts: 3
    hello Jhuettman, have you found any solution to your problems with the lights, fan and wipers??
  • vyskvysk Member Posts: 1
    I too have a 2003 Passat 1.8T that recently developed a loss of power when accelerating. I was also informed today that all my brake lights are also out. Related? Fuses look good. Before I take it to be serviced, were you able to ascertain the root cause of your similar problems?
  • lockman922lockman922 Member Posts: 1
    I’ve searched the Passat forum and did not see a problem like this, so here it goes.

    Vehicle Info:
    2002 Passat, W8, 4Motion, ~70K miles, Purchased “new” “demo” (which means – the dealer’s wife and kids beat the snot out of it for a few months) from a VW dealer in ’04 with

    Problem:
    The cruise control will drop out as though the brake has been used or the Cancel button pressed. Resume always returns to the set speed. Once this problem starts, it will recur every 1.5 to 2 minutes. This problem has been present for as long as I have owned the car.

    When:
    On most, but not all, trips of over 2 hours.
    The problem appears to be temperature related.
    The higher the temperature, the sooner and more likely the problem will occur.
    On a day in the 90s the cycling begins within 10 minutes of setting the cruise. The certainty of occurrence is 100% when temps are this high.
    On cooler days – 20 to 40 – the cycling may not start until an hour or two has passed. But once it starts, it doesn’t stop until the engine is turned off and the car has a chance to cool down. For instance, on a ~7 hour trip I took a while back from Indiana to Toronto – temps in the 40s – the problem did not occur on the trip to Toronto, but on the return trip at about 3.5 hours the cruise started to cycle. I logged 43 cycles at an average interval of 1 minute 40 seconds until I stopped for dinner. The car sat for 35 minutes in 30 something weather. The cruise was fine for about an hour and 20 minutes then the cycling started over again.
    Terrain and precipitation do not seem to make a difference – up hill, down hill, rain, snow – do not make the problem more or less likely. Temperature is the only variable I can detect.
    A day of short city driving trips – no cruise – increases the likelihood. Even more likely if the temps are high and the car has been sitting in the sun most of the day. Certainty = 100%

    Home Made Remedies:
    Turning the cruise off with the slide switch and then back on makes no difference. Various intervals of on/off were tested.
    Pounding on the steering wheel and cursing in a loud and threatening voice has no effect.
    Turning other electrical equipment on/off has no effect.
    Muttered obscenities also do not work.
    A quick - stop the car, turn it off, sit for 30 seconds and then restart has no effect.

    VW Dealer Remedies:
    First, let me say that the dealer has more than fair. The cost has been less than $50 for multiple days over a number of years for a loaner car, testing and head scratching.
    The brake light switch has been replaced more than once… at least three times that I can remember.
    The throttle housing was replaced.
    All connectors that might have any bearing have been checked. Don’t know exactly what they are though.
    No relevant stored codes have been found.

    This problem is very nearly forcing me to trade this beloved car in for something else.

    Anyone have any insightful revelations?

    Thanks for your help!
  • 29modela29modela Member Posts: 1
    The cruise control on my '99 Passat V6 worked when the car was new. Another driver in the family used it for several years but never used cruise control. I've just started driving the car and found the cruise control doesn't work. When I tried to install a new 5 amp fuse in position no. 11, I found not only that there was no fuse there but also no contacts in the fuse box in that position! I assume that the fuse must be somewhere else, unknown to both the owner's manual and to me. (This is also true of the heated outside mirrors fuse). Can anyone provide advice? Thanks!
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    No clue on the fuse position on the cruise control for your car. But if your heated mirrors don't work, it's possible the actual heating circuit on the mirrors are burned out. There is no timer on the heated mirrors. People have been known to turn on the mirrors and forget about them - for weeks, months, etc. The cure is to replace the mirror glass.
  • birdie1604birdie1604 Member Posts: 4
    My wife drives a 2000 passat wagon that's had wacky electrical problems since birth...most common are warning messages for no (apparent) reason -- check engine, brakes, oil, etc...

    This morning the car wouldn't start...got it going with a jump and drove it a while to recharge, but when I turned it off, the radio stayed on, as did a fan under the hood and probably other stuff I didn't notice ... I assume this is what caused the battery to die in the first place... I've disconnected it for now but can't keep doing that forever ...

    I see so many Passat electrical problems posted here that I'm figuring someone out there can enlighten me ... I'm guessing alternator, but don't know much about cars... Can anybody clue me in? Thanks...
    Rick in Cocoa Beach
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Alternator would not be my guess. It appears to be charging the battery when running. The problem is you have all these things discharging the battery.

    Have you had this car in for repairs? You need to give me clues as to what you've done to address this. My first guess on the waring lights you mentioned was a bad ground somewhere. But electrical stuff isn't really my forte...
  • birdie1604birdie1604 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks.
    I've had it in lots of times for repeated elec stuff, especially all those warning messages -- check engine, check, brakes, check ABS, sheck fluids, end of the world coming -- been driving me nuts.
    Taking it in tomorrow...will post outcome.
    again, thanks a lot.
  • yesimsyesims Member Posts: 2
    Last week I realized that the passenger side DRL wasn't working, nor the low beam when I turned on the lights . I thought it was a bulb problem and replaced the bulb (the one I took out looked OK) but the problem continued. I then checked the fuses but they looked ok too. Although when I was searching for answers one suggestion I read was to use a multimeter, should be for the fuses just in case I couldn't see it blown. BTW, the wires look fine but I didn't test if there is any flow. I have to get the multimeter... Any ideas? Oh, I forgot to mention we have a 2000 SW and my husband is ready to get rid of it, as just last month we spent $300 :mad: to have an oxygen sensor replaced ...
  • dbrownleedbrownlee Member Posts: 2
    While driving [mind you, very quick acceleration through a turn into speeding traffic], the electric windows stopped working and the interior dome lights would not turn on... The engine operated as usual.
    The car was driven like this for 15 miles, or so, then parked and turned off. The windows were closed using the key in the outside of the door. After about 25 minutes the car was turned on but would not start. The control lights light up but the ingnition does not engage. No click or buzz. Nothing. The battery is good. The radio goes on. The clock is on. Headlights work. Fuses are okay, though there are a quite a few empty spaces. Though the windows can be operated from the outside with the key, the sunroof will not close with the key or from the inside...
    Oh yeah. There has been a brake fault beeper goiing off since about a month ago, though the brake operation is okay- perhaps the abs system is not working quite right...

    In older cars, I would have expected the "solenoid" was out, but even that would click with the surge of electricity through the ignition to the starter motor. What's going on? Is there a reset switch somewhere? Has anyone got a loaner? :sick: :confuse:
  • iowavwiowavw Member Posts: 2
    Hello!
    We have been having the same problem with our passat for almost 6 months. We took it in, but due to the problem being intermitant they couldn't pin point it because it started every time for the mechanic. We spent 200 dollars getting the starter cleaned along with a new solenoid and other small parts. Anyway, again today it didn't start twice, but worked inbetween. My mechanic is checking it out and he thinks it may have to do with an electric glitch in the security system (even though we don't have one they still have strange connection failures). We'll see, I'll let you know, but it sounds like we have the exact same issue.
  • stephkaestephkae Member Posts: 1
    2003 Volkswagen Passat 1.8 T

    My car has been running great. I stopped to get gas,paid, then it wouldn't start. It would barely even click when turning over. I got it jumped and drove home(about 10 miles) Tried to start it right after I got home, and it won't work again. Just a little bit of clicking. I have had no problems at all starting or anything until now. Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Time for a new battery.
  • ronspassat1ronspassat1 Member Posts: 5
    It started with the lock sometimes working and not via the remote control on key or the unlock button on the drivers side. Then It quit working. Then the window also refused to work...either by electronic..or manually pushing buttons. This is on passenger rear window. I want to take it in...but dealership isn't even giving me an I dea of what it may be...musch less cost...only that they will have to do diagnostic and see what happens.....alot of help LOL. Any ideas???
  • 95passat95passat Member Posts: 5
    Check the fuses!!!! And even if your fuse looks OK, replace it. Problem solved. VTY, 1995Passat
  • petaupetau Member Posts: 1
    Mine is having the same problems. It started when my window fell off track, took aport the door to fix it, and my windows or interior lights and stuff didn't work. I removed a relay that diabled the security system, and it started, windows still didn't work, but my car started. a few months later, it won't start at all. It starts in the mornings, or when it's cool outside, or jumped. I checked the battry. I have heard from a few people that it could be the throttle positioning sensor (TPS) but as it is expensive, I haven't had the chance to try that yet. Let me know if you find out anythign from your mechanic.
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