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Jeep Wrangler

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Comments

  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Oh yeah, Brodie, it's still alive around here. It really hurts my feelings when I don't get a return wave, but that doesn't happen often.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • ike582ike582 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice on storing my soft-top windows. I think I am going to order one of the lined window carriers. Also, the under-seat flat storage seems like an interesting solution on the road.

    As for off-roading, I've got to find a place that will allow it! Are there any websites that list off-road places? I'm in the Northern 'burbs of Chicago.

    For Tom, here are the specs on the Sport: 4L engine, 5 speed (the only way to go!), Khaki color and 30" Tire package. Another dealer tried hard to sell me on the Sahara package, since he didn't have a Sport with the equipment I wanted. I couldn't see spending MORE money for a car I really didn't want. Call me a fool, but I like a Jeep with a black roll bar and black wheel moldings. The Sahara "color coded" bars and moldings look a bit too fancy for my taste.

    This seems like a great place for Jeep info and discussion. Thanks for the warm welcome.

    Ike
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    I don't think you have a whole lot of choices in where you go wheelin' in the Chicago area, but there is one real nice place to go in Attica, Indiana, called Badlands. It's a private pay-to-play off road park, and it has some real nice terrain.

    Take at look at your road atlas. Attica is on US 41 about even with West Lafayette but west of there. Just look for where 41 crosses the Wabash river. I'm guessing it would take you about 2.5 to 3 hours to get there, but check it out for yourself. I'm thinkin' it would take you an hour to just get out of the Chicago metropolitan area, right?

    Badlands has a web site, if you want to take a look. It's badlandsoffroad.com.

    Man, your description of your Jeep sounds like the one I would be buying if I were in the market now. I love that khaki color! I like your options too, and I'll bet you have the Dana 44, since you got the 30" tire package. Did ya? They used to call it option AAS. That got ya the Canyon wheeels, 30" tires, the Dana 44, and gas shocks. My Thelma Jane had that option package.

    Ike, if you would like to do some Jeep chatting, come to Gill's, like many of us in here do. It's a noncommercial Jeep web site that has a real nice chat room and there is also a free photo gallery there. You can post pics of your Jeep in there. Gill is nice enough to allow hot links, so you can host your pics on his site and link them to other places, like the gallery here in the Jeep Owners Club at Edmunds.

    I got whacked for posting a link to Gill's a while back by mean old Steve (j/k, Steve), so email me for a link. My email is public in my profile.

    Once again, Ike, welcome to the world of Jeeps and welcome to this message board.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • redkey1redkey1 Member Posts: 270
    What do you guys do with the rear window?
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Have fun looking up trails. I wish I could offer you some choices, but I don't know anything about your area. I do a great deal of travelling in the national forests - I like the scenery and some of them have 4x4 trails that range from easy to "forget it unless you are HIGHLY modified." You might want to think about planning a trip out west some time. Tons of trails there.

    I used the internet to search for trails. I didn't find that many trails, but I did end up finding a house I could afford in a lovely area close to an off-road area!

    So have fun with that Wrangler.
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    I just roll my rear window up around the lower metal bar and set it just inside where the bar normally sits. Some people may use a towel when rolling it up to protect the window. My side windows I lay together and kind of fold to fit them in the back under the top.

    My plastic windows are fully scuffed and scratched because I drive through a lot of overgrown roads with branches that scrape the side. It's amazing how well I can still see through them, though. They may not look new close up, but you really don't see those scratches from any distance.
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    Tom, I've fixed most of my rubbing problems while running disconnected with 33's. I just installed a 2" body lift from Performance Accessories.

    Now, the only time the front tires rub is when one side is fully compressed (on the stock bump stops) with the wheels turned all the way to the stops, the edge of the nobbies can touch the sway bar and just barely touch the fender-flares. The tires do not hit the fenders any more.

    Since this happens only with the wheels are fully cranked one way or the other, it's not an issue for me.

    If you're going to get those 33" BFG MT's, I'd recommend this lift kit, it was very complete and had good instructions. I got mine for about $75.

    I'll post some pictures over in the Gallery in a while.

    -Pete
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Thanks for the info. I have seen a LOT of posts in other message boards to the effect that more than one inch body lifts are not good. I hope yours works out for you in the long run, but I think I will either forego a body lift or limit mine to one inch.

    It could be rubbish, Pete, but I am not going by just one or two posts. There are lots of them that say you should not go over one inch. I think it has to do with the leverage increasing the stress on the bolts that hold the body to the frame. I guess the body is not held on by a whole lot anyway, and as you make those bolts longer, the body exerts more force as it leans in corners or twists on the trials. Does that make sense? It sounds reasonable to me, Pete, but I am no expert.

    At any rate, I hope yours turns out to be a good thing for ya.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • brodie19brodie19 Member Posts: 9
    Ok here goes the dealer I am going to buy my jeep from has the sticker at 30,100$ and the TMV price is 27,310$, this is a difference of 2790$. Now this price, I think, does not include the 1000$ rebate which would bring it down to 26,310$ plus tax title and license. Does this seem correct?? Any info would be great. I am looking to buy before the 31st since that is when the rebate is up.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Hope others will speak up with their opinions, but I would think you must be looking at a totally loaded Rubi for that kind of sticker price, and if you can get it for the price you said, I would say you should go for it.

    I think I paid right about $22,100 for Thelma, which was $200 over invoice, and a new Rubi is well worth the extra $4,000.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • brodie19brodie19 Member Posts: 9
    it has dual top,auto, tint, auto dim mirror, sentry, ac, add a trunk, cd player, 7 speakers, floor mats and engine block heater ... more than i really want but the color us great ...
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    Yes, I've read about some problems too, but sounds like not as many as you have seen. The few I read said anything over 3" tends to pull the body right off the bolt & nut because the embedded nut in the body is a weak point. I thought I was safe by only doing 2", maybe not.

    There are 11 mounting points, but I don't know if that's good or bad for a vehicle this size. While I had everything apart, it sure looked a little overkill having 3 mounts on each side just under the door area. I don't know.

    While I don't do much leaning from side to side with this, I do ascend / descend steep hills all the time which would cause more stress on those embedded nuts due to the extra leverage of the longer bolts and spacers. I guess time will tell. I'm not sure which is my weakest link as this point, my D35 or the body lift. To think I was going to keep the Jeep in stock form, that's funny now.

    Thanks,
    Pete
  • brodie19brodie19 Member Posts: 9
    Well found another dealer about 80 miles away an here is what ive got ... 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Intense blue in color, cloth seats, dual tops, 5 spd manual transmition, I-6 engine, tinted windows, ac, speed control, am/fm cd, 7 speakers, floor mats ... and get this ... out the door for 25,500$
    this is the best deal that i have found/heard of so i am going down on saturday to give them my deposit ... let me know what you all think ...
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Sounds like a very good deal. Make sure you carfax it and see how many miles it has, maybe it's a demonstrator vehicle, or was returned as a lemon, who knows
  • brodie19brodie19 Member Posts: 9
    it has 0 records found so looks good from there ... i will be seeing it this saturday ... hope all is well with it ...
  • jacknimblejacknimble Member Posts: 171
    Hi all. Had my jeep for two years now. Enjoy everything about it, but I am just about to my wits end with a squeaky passenger seat. If no one is sitting in it, it squeaks with the least amount of movement, which means all of the time. I've even removed the seat, and lubricated every possible mechanism I can see with white lithium grease to no avail.

    All it takes it a finger movement on the top of the seat back front to back to reproduce it, but I cannot find where it is. I think I can rule out the springs, and it does not sound like its coming from the seat back hinges, but rather in the slide/tilt part of the seat, but not sure.

    Any else been experienced this? It' so bad that it ruins my Jeep experience, especially with the top on.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Where is it? The only manual I have is a 92 Factory Service Manual. The 4 cyl bleeder pictured in there doesn't seem to be on my 95 Wrangler. The clutch won't hold pressure but is not leaking fluid. I'm assuming air in the line.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    From today's Anchorage paper (and probably elsewhere):

    A man bought his wife a beautiful diamond ring for her birthday.

    "I thought she wanted one of those sporty four-wheel-drive vehicles," said his friend.

    "She did," he replied. "But where the heck was I gonna find a fake Jeep?"

    Steve, Host
  • geepersgeepers Member Posts: 93
    Not the solution you're looking for I'm sure, but have you tried just tumbling it forward? I've not heard of this dilema before.

    Gary
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Have been out of town for the last three days, and I am just catching up on the posts in here.

    I was at Badlands yesterday and had a great time wheelin' there. Badlands is a pay to play off road park in Attica, Indiana. It's an old rock quarry and the surrounding land.

    You might be fine with that 2" body lift, Pete. The message board that I was talking about, Jeeps Unlimited, just has lots of posts to the effect that anything over 1" is not a good idea, but you know how it goes on the Internet... you can't believe everything you read.

    Those were some great pics you took, but then your pics are ALWAYS nice. Man, you sure live in some beautiful country!

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • jacknimblejacknimble Member Posts: 171
    Geepers,

    No, I haven't, but will to see if that will at least narrow it down. I think I'm going to see about getting a new tilt/slide mechanism. There must be a part missing on it from the factory.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Where I live, we get fog in the autumn and winter. On my 97 SE, I don't have fog lamps installed, but wanted to add them. Is there a way I can check to see if the wiring is there for me to add them?

    I pulled off (okay took off carefully) the center console where the buttons are at the bottom by the ashtry and one of them had wiring behind it, tough I could not press any type of button. Anybody know what that wire would be for? Hopefully for fog lamps. :)

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The basic wiring should be a part of the main harness. However, harness additions, relays and a switch are required to complete the installation.

    Here's a link to the complete OE kit:

    http://makeashorterlink.com/?A22114E25

    and here's one to the OE foglights:

    http://makeashorterlink.com/?S53123E25
  • brodie19brodie19 Member Posts: 9
    what is the break in period of the new rubicon??? I am picking up my intense blue rubi on friday, it has dual tops, 5 spd, cd, ac, 7 speakers, deep tint etc for 25639$ couldnt pass that up!!!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Thanks for the links. So, will I have to run the wiring through the firewall myself or is the wiring there and I just need to piggyback on some of the wiring already in place and I just need to add lamps and wiring on the bumper and for the dash?

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ".......I just need to piggyback on some of the wiring already in place and I just need to add lamps and wiring on the bumper and for the dash?"


    Exactly........the only hard part is writing the check.

    :-)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Again, thank you for the information. The pricing is lower than most other dealers around me have quoted, so writing the check shouldn't be so bad.

    One last question though, the one 'switch' that has wiring behind it... would that be for the fog lamps and it just needs the switch? I could get a picture of it if that would help some.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The new switch will install to the left of the ashtray. There should be a blanking plate where it will go. The switch will be connected to the existing wiring harness by a 'jumper' which will be included in the kit. The end result should look just as if it was fitted as OE.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    CONGRATULATIONS ON THE RUBI!!!!

    Man, how cool is that? A brand new Rubicon!

    There are a million theories on how to properly break in a new engine. I believe the owners manual will tell you to keep it under 50 for the first 500 miles and to vary your speed during this time rather than run prolonged periods at the same speed.

    Some people ignore this completely and drive a vehicle from day one as they plan on driving it on a regular basis.

    I think I kinda took the middle of the road approach and stayed under 60 for the first two hundred miles, then drove more or less normally after that. I did make sure not to get too happy with the gas petal for the first few hundred miles, but, hey, it's a Jeep, so there's no sense hot rodding it anyway.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    that is what I suspected. Looks like the wiring is about ready to go, then I just have to add the wiring for the lights in front and 'piggyback' the headlight wiring, then do the wiring at the dash and I'm ready to go. Sounds good to me. :)

    -Paul
  • sushanovasushanova Member Posts: 6
    I own a 1997 4.0L 5 speed manual Jeep Wrangler. Recently I have had problems turning my key in the ignition. I cannot turn the key (at all)either way (to start the car, or turn on accessories). It is liked something is jammed. This first happened to me when I was parallel parked on a hill with my wheels turned against the curb. I thought that I had problems just because the wheel was locked. I eventually got the wheels unlocked and the key turned.

    Recently, when the car is parked on a flat surface, with the wheels straight I cannot turn the key in the ignition. The wheel is not locked, because I can turn it, but the key will not turn at all. I have tried all sorts of combinations, like starting the car in neutral, starting it in gear, with the wheels straight, with them turned, etc.

    My questions are:

    1. Has anyone ever heard of this problem?
    2. Does anyone know a solution?

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated since now all I have is a 2 ton paper weight in my driveway.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    This may be a basic question, but are you using an original key or a duplicate? I've had similar problems on my other cars (ones that don't have the computer chip in them).

    If you are using an original, you may have a problem with your key cylinder. I'm not sure how expensive that would be to replace or if that would impact your locking/unlocking doors.

    -Paul
  • sushanovasushanova Member Posts: 6
    I am using the original key.

    I looked in a repair manual and it said that any problems with the key cylinder would require that the whole steering column be replaced. :(
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Have you checked to see if the button release for the key is in the proper position? Perhaps if it is partially depressed, it may impact your ability to move the key to the next positions.

    I'm just throwing ideas out here. Hopefully it is something simple.

    -Paul
  • sushanovasushanova Member Posts: 6
    I am using the original key.

    I looked in a repair manual and it said that any problems with the key cylinder would require that the whole steering column be replaced. :(
  • sushanovasushanova Member Posts: 6
    Yes, unfortunately I have checked to make sure that key release button is in the proper position.

    Thanks for throwing out differnt ideas though. I am willing to try just about anything before replacing the steering column.
  • kdockdoc Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone! I'm brand new to this message board thing, so forgive me if I'm not familiar with protocol...We previously owned a 1988 wranger that we purchased in rather bad shape and had done some extensive restoration prior to my son totalling it yesterday...he's fine, the jeep is not...it was a sad day indeed! We MUST have a jeep (for hunting and fun) so we are looking to purchase another used wrangler. In all honesty, like many late 80's vehicles, our old '88 had MANY problems with vaccum, carborator, timing, etc. Even after rebuilding the engine, tranny and carb. multiple times...we even considered sacrificing a chicken or performing an exorcism to get it to run better! In any event, before we buy another jeep, we want to make sure that the newer models don't have any quirks we should be aware of. We are looking at wranglers from about 2000 and newer. I know no one has a crystal ball, but any thoughts on any of these year models? We will be taking it off road some, but no major rock climbing, just mud! We also plan to keep the 31x10.5 wheels and BFG mud terrains that were only about 6 months old from our old '88. Thoughts?

    Have a good one!
  • sushanovasushanova Member Posts: 6
    Yes, unfortunately I have checked to make sure that key release button is in the proper position.

    Thanks for throwing out different ideas though. I am willing to try just about anything before replacing the steering column.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    If you do a page refresh after posting a message then your message will be duplicated. It's a feature of our software! ;-)

    To avoid this, navigate to some other location on the Town Hall Boards and then back again or click on the "Recent messages" link at the bottom of the list of posts on this page instead of hitting using your browser's refresh button.

    tidester, host
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Both the lock barrel and the complete lock/switch assembly are available separately. It's only if the locking lever is damaged that the entire column must be replaced. Here's a quote from the FSM:

    "On vehicles equipped with a manual transmission, a lever is located on the steering column behind the ignition key lock cylinder. The lever must be operated to allow rotation of the ignition key lock cylinder. The lever mechanism is not serviced separately. If repair is necessary, the steering column assembly must be replaced."

    The switch cannot be repaired but can be replaced:

    " The key-in ignition switch cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the entire ignition switch must be replaced. Refer to Ignition Systems for the service procedures."

    The procedure is simple if you follow the instructions in the FSM. I think the cost of the complete switch is less than $50.
  • sushanovasushanova Member Posts: 6
    Unfortunately, I think that the level mechanism is the problem, because I cannot turn the key. I guess the solution is to go have it looked at to determine which it is.

    Thanks
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Sorry about what happened to your Jeep, but I am glad that your son is OK.

    You are going to find some amazing differences between the TJ you will buy and the YJ that you just lost. The coil springs of the TJ give a much, much better ride, and they have the added bonus of contributing to the flex for off roading. Speaking strictly stock to stock, the TJ is head and shoulders above the YJ in highway ride and much better for off roading at the same time.

    I am not aware of any major improvements from 2000 on up to the 03's. It was during the 2000 model year that the trannies were switched from the AX-15s to the NV3550s, but I don't know how much, if any, that improved things. The one thing I know about, though, is that beginning in 2001, the soft tops are four ply sail cloth and are MUCH quieter than the old tops. I don't have a soft top on my 01, but I have seen many, many posts about how much better the soft tops are from 01 on up. I think you can count on that to be true. There might be a better sound system option that became available about 2001... not sure when it became an option, but the sub woofer option makes a huge difference in the quality of the sound.

    You ought to try to find a Jeep with the Dana 44 rear end. That could pay off big time, if you want to go with a locker and bigger tires some day.

    Hope this helps. Good luck.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • kdockdoc Member Posts: 2
    Huge help! Thanks for the info! We are very much in the preliminary stages of looking, so the info will help narrow down the list. I loved that old Jeep...we tried every thing to get her running right, and in the end she gave her all! We salvaged several things off her (our wiring and mount for the receiver hitch winch, KC light bar, custom wheels, etc, so what ever we end up with should adapt well. I'm glad I found this site. As we search for, find and customize our next jeep, I'm sure this site will become invaluable! Thanks again!

    KDOC
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Forgot to mention something that you need to know.. the NV3550 transmission is notorious for making noise when it is in neutral and the engine is running with the clutch out. This is just normal for the NV3550, and the noise sounds sort of like marbles rolling around in a tin can.

    So, don't be afraid to buy a Jeep if it is making this noise. My Thelma Jane has made that noise practically from day one, and after two and a half years, I have had no transmission problems.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 01r101r1 Member Posts: 280
    My '02 X has a squeaky clutch. I thought I'd get under the dash and lube the pedal pivot area to resolve it, but the squeak is actually coming from the tranny. With it being a hydraulic clutch, the next moving part is in the tranny and I can't get to it. It only squeaks when the tranny is warmed up. I guess I'll take it to the dealer and have them look at it.

    Anyone else have this squeaky clutch problem?

    Thanks,
    Pete
  • denver8denver8 Member Posts: 42
    I now what you are talking about with the old carbs, I had an 89 wrangler that had the same problem. I would have the carb rebuilt about once a year for 5 years before buying a 95 wrangler. The fuel injection system in the 1990 and on models is much better.
  • boxerdudeboxerdude Member Posts: 2
    Just got my 03 Wrangler. I'm in love. I took the top down the first day, and I don't think I'll be putting the top back on for a long time. (I live in the desert = no winter)

    I initially ws looking for a 3-5 year old Wrangler, automatic, 4 cylinder. After crunching the numbers, reading the old posts, and talking with Jeep owners, I ended up getting a new Wrangler X, 4.0L, 5 speed.

    Couple of questions:
    1. Is it worth it to get an alarm system? My baby will be garaged at night, but I'll be around town with the top down alot (of course I won't leave any valuable in it). If so, is there a particular brand/style/make you would recommend?

    2 I am going to buy step boards to make it easy for my family (including dog) to get inside. Do these boards require drilling?

    Thanks!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm firmly of the opinion that an alarm is only useful if you can respond when it activates. When was the last time that you rushed to investigate a stranger's alarm going off? There are models out there that will page you or call your cell-phone.

    Alternatively, leave the doors unlocked, which may avoid getting the windows slashed, and the glove box and center console lids open to show they contain nothing valuable
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Congrats on the new Jeep and welcome to this message board!

    Is this your fist short wheel base Jeep?

    Be careful about those side steps, if you are going to do any off roading. They have a way of getting ripped off and doing damage to the body of the Jeep in the process.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • redkey1redkey1 Member Posts: 270
    I thought about it, but really people don't seem to pay any attention to it. It is way too easy to get into a jeep, so just leave it unlocked.

    If you want to invest your money in security, get some sort of starter diable and a tuffy lockable storage box.
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