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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Take it to a general repair shop, not the dealer. The car is probably out of warranty by now anyway, and the quality of the work done is about the same, just less money for you to spend.
I had the problem repaired at about 92,000 miles, and I am currently at 109,000 miles (mycar is a 2000 model). Good luck with your repair, hopefully this is the only major repair you will need with your car as they seem to be pretty solid.
I like a black car, but prefer the indigo blue on the Impalas.
I responded to anothers question just like this one. Chevy did pay for mine. I had to pay up front and then call Chevy and fax the bill to them and they reimbursed me in full. Did you get it fixed yet? I went ahead and got mine fixed. Well the faulty they fixed they replaced with another faulty part. It cracked in half on me last weekend. Thank god I was pulling into my driveway when it happened because I wouldn't be typing this right now if I hadn't! I lost total control of my steering. They had to flat bed my car to the dealership to fix it! My suggestion is they will pay for it, but don't not get it fixed if they don't. It will break.
I have an '01 Impala just passed 100K miles. Been a wonderful car for 3 years. Had 30K when bought used.
About my issues, in the past year I hae had the following services done: Coolant system flush and pressure test (about 10 months ago) and a fuel system cleaning (about 6 months ago).
Recently, in the past 3 months or so, I have noticed a coolant odor when parking in my garage. Also, the coolant low light has come on a couple of times.
Also, in the past couple of months, the Check Engine light has been on and off intermittently. The shop we had do the fuel system cleaning says it is a "false code" and just needs reset. It has now come on and stays on. The code is P1406 and refers to EGR Valve Pintle Position Error. We haven't had, until the past week or so, any rough starting, idling, etc. Our fuel mileage sits around 21 city/23-24 hwy, but the past week saw it drop to 18/20.
Since we are approaching our annual Emissions test, I am wondering if this is something a shop should deal with, or if it is something I could handle. I have read other places that the 1406 code may not necessarily mean the EGR Valve is bad, but no clear discussions of what the root cause of that code might be. Some have said a possible vacuum leak, and others have said a fuel leak. Any suggestions on how to test this?
P1406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Performance
Try removing the EGR valve and checking for carbon buildup on the pintle and seat. If so, aerosol air intake cleaner and an old toothbrush will sometimes clean it up.
(1) The Wheel bearing have failed and need to be replaces. Says extended warranty will cover as it is VERY expensive. (??)
(2) The Engine shims have to be replaced AGAIN. They were installed about 9 months ago but they say warranty does not cover this. GM issued a notice how to correct the noise by installing shims for the engine cradle but they didn't issue parts numbers etc and so it is not covered by warranty. Since they are doing the other work, they will install shims AGAIN for $30.
Glad I have the extended warranty! Shame it doesn't cover replacing the front AND rear ROTORS ever 30-35 K miles.
BTW my 2001 Impala with 79,000 miles is worth $4200 trade-in at Honda Dealer; and about $5100 at CarMax. Only cost $24000 new. Meanwhile, the Honda folks are moaning about how their vehicles are hard to buy used since they are worth only 2 - 3 K less than new! $5100 for a 2001 in good shape. Car lots are filled with them.
How much should front wheel bearings cost if out of pocket on an Impala?
Also have that odd water gushing type noise in the dash, but usually only in the morning.
I HATE this anti-theft system.. it protects cars from their owners. A real theif could
steal it..
I need help. Is anyone out there that can help? My poor daughetr got this car for
her birthday from my ex husband her dad.. I gave a friend the directions to put a
cd changer in it. Well he detered from the directions and cause the ignition to
lock up.. Now I need to know how to unlock it or how I can maybe bypass the
passlock 2 sysytem so that the ignition will unlock... I would like to completly
disarm passlock 2 for good...Please can anyone help.. you would be our hero... We
dont have the hundreds of Dollars GM would want to take us for on this... Thanks
in advanced , Lisa..... Missourihoney@msn.com
Good news, rotors were in good shape and were able to be turned again. Just needed new pads.
Engine shims redone .
Any tricks out there for this, or do I need to bite the bullet and get a new one, with 103k miles on the car would rather not.
Either way, $50 on ebay isnt too bad for a new mirror.
Has any one else had a similar problem? What can we do to fix this problem!!!
Now at 33000 miles and just weeks left on warranty the tach noise is back, I still have the rattle at various times and I have a new problem: a squeak that seems to be coming from engine compartment on right side. The squeaking seems to go away after driving car a few miles but also doesn't occur at all if someone is sitting in passenger seat in front. Makes me think it may be suspension related. A bushing?
Anyhow, I will be trying to get some resolution to these items at dealer in next couple of weeks but wanted to see if anyone in forum has any experience with any of these problems.
Other than the various noises the car has been excellent in all other respects.
I got my '04 Impala in December, base model. Really enjoying it.
However, I found that whenever I go in or out (especially out) of a driveway, the front of the car will hit the pavement unless I go extremely slow. When it first happened, I thought it was because the tires needed air (which they did). This didn't happen in other Impalas I rented or test drove.
After adding air, the problem lessened somewhat. However, it hasn't gone away completely. It's scary to have to go very slow backing out of the parking space of my doctor's office, onto a busy street. You need to go slow not to hit the car on the pavement, but the quick oncoming cars necessitate your needed to leave fast.
I spoke to the mechanic I have seen for the last 13 years (fear of going to the dealer) and he told me that Impalas have a low profile. He said what I am hitting is the air deflector, and not to worry. He said to go slow, and try to exit/enter steeper driveways at an angle.
Anyone else have this issue? Have you solved it? :confuse:
Thanks so much for your help!
The irony is that I had a choice between getting a 1SC (more options than 1SB) right away or having an '05 built. They don't make the Impala 1SC package anymore, it also has sedan sport pkg. I wanted the more options over the Onstar. Always pros and cons to every decision. I do love this car, though!
Thanks for all the info. :shades:
I did find some TBS announcements online but wanted to learn more about specific parts and if someone had a fix. :sick: link title
I just purchased this car (used) with 13990 miles from the same dealer of my previous new car (2000 Malibu - 6 cyl base model) - recently totalled in a rear-ender.
One thing that has surprised me is the ride quality which seems harsher than the Malibu - I feel every little bump in the road. Dealer says this is normal for this car and Pontiac GrandAm. It is the base model so the sport suspension should not apply. True?? Tires are the Uniroyal Tigers-Paw.
Most postings I've read seem to comment positively on the smoothness of the ride. I'm not feeling vibrations in the steering (steering seems tight and positive), but in the entire car.
No, I did not test drive the car. Was happy with the Malibu and felt this would be even better. Price was $11550. CarFax said OK. Car came off a one owner 3 year lease.
Also, first thing dealer had to do was cut the rotors - brakes pulsated.
Any suggestions, please?
I also had some hard shifting problems maybe a year or so ago, and as I recall there was some type of module that had to be replaced in the transmittion which solved the problem (seems like that cost @ $500).
Thanks!
I'll check the transmittion module - thanks for the tip.