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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Thanks so much!
gm will replace the upper intake manifold nuts and put sealant in the radiator need more info call CHEVY at 1800 630 2438
a sound that can best be described as the Moo of a cow or a steer (or the squeel of a power steering unit failure). There also at that point seems to be a bit of squishyness in the brake pedal, though this could be my imagination. the abs light goes on intermittantly. Any thoughts?
Also, (the car has 4 disc brakes) when chaning pads, should the metal clips that fit on the calipers and on which the pads sit, be greased? (the above problem occurred several weeks after I replaced the pads. I don't think it is related. I must admit I have a bit of a shudder when braking but I strongly suspect this is related to a bad rotor (I did not replace them or have them turned).
every now and then my car will not start, the security light blinks, all lights, and radio works but it just will not start. I can wait about 10 minutes for the computer to "reset" but what a pain in the *** that is... don't want to spend the 400 - 600 it will cost to fix something that I don't even want in the first place... just like you said it protects the car from the owner instead of the car from the thief.. please let me know when you get a chance..mike
Have you found anymore info about this problem?
When I brought the car in the first time for service there was a Corvette that had the same problem.
I just came across this forum. Excellent information. I have a few questions on my 2001 Impala. For the most part, I've been very satisfied with it, but it's developed a couple of problems that need servicing.
One, the transmission is slipping. Sometimes from a dead start, it will take a second or two to for the trans to catch. Also, when shifting at about 40 mph, it hesitates.
Two, this has been going on awhile, but seems to have gotten worse lately. When braking, I'll get pretty strong vibrations through the steering wheel. I had the brakes check at a reputable shop, and they were fine. I know there are often rotor problems, but could this be steering related? It does not make any clunking sound when turning. It only happens during braking, and not all of the time, it kind of comes and goes.
Third, I have about 50k miles on it. Even if there are TSBs on these problems, will they do me any good? ie, will they be fixed for free? I don't know whether TSB's get fixed at no cost regardless of the milage/age.
The only reason I would take it to a dealer to get it fixed would be if I had a hope of getting some work done for free. If not, I would take it to a mechanic.
Thanks for any help.
Jim
But I have small problem if anyone has any suggestions.. Usually the car (2003 impala) starts up instantly, and usually so quiet I cant even tell if it started or not! But sparatically it has a hard time starting. It will take a good couple seconds, very noticeable that it is having a hard time getting started, sounds like a 20 year old car! When it happened once I did hard some kind of clunk noise when it was trying to start. The weathers been about 70 degreesF so its not because of the cold, and it has done it after sitting for only about an hour. Ive had the car for 2 months and its happened about 4 times, the other times flawless. I know on at least 2 occassions the air conditioner was ON, im thinking maybe it had to do with that engaged. Any suggestions? thanks
a pulsation as the one descibed here is a sign of warped brake rotors you should feel a pulsating up and down as you aply your brake you may also fell a slight vibration upon application of brake pedal
chris
About 2 or 3 weeks ago my air condition compressor kept trying to turn on making a loud clicking noise
Three days ago I noticed that when I shut off my car and openned the doors, the radio had stayed on. The next day the same thing had happend and I went into the grocery store for about 15 minutes and when I came back my car wouldn't start at all! My husband is a tow truck driver and I called him to come and get me and before I got off the phone I tried the car again and it started right up! But the Security Lock was displayed in the message centre.
We took it to the garage and left it there overnight. First thing in the morning my car started fine, they hooked it up to the computer and it came back showing no error messages. They took it for a drive, it worked fine, my husband came and took it for a drive and it worked fine. I went to pick it up and it wouldn't start. The Lock was still on and the mechanic said that it was preventing the start up, but it still wasn't reading on the computer.
We were able to shut off one of the main power sources to the car, re-boot and it starts up right away but only for one or two start ups and then the security setting comes back on and it won't start.
I know some people suggested the computer, is there anyway that the computer itself can get checked out or do we just have to replace it and hope for the best.
Did your car start up fine after sitting 8-10 hours? My car would start up fine, but if I stopped for an hour it might not start up..Will the dealer replace the bcm for free with 105 k on it?
thanks,
I have a 2000 Impala LS 3.8L. The car has 140K miles on it...Good engine The problem that Im experiencing is: I start the car put it into drive, 1st or 2nd or reverse works fine..But after 5 minutes, I can shift into any gear and the car will not move...engine only revs up. I checked the transmission oil & the shifter cable...fine. During the first 5 minutes, I can drive anywhere no noises, transmission does not slip.
GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY SOLUTIONS
Would appreciate any comments.
Of course my discourse with Chevrolet got me no where. "It's normal wear-and-tear" - ya, but the car is one year old. Rusting that bad is not normal. I'm thinking about a class action suit.
Anyone else experienced rotor rusting? Thanks!
My 01 LS had the rotors turned at 14K, replaced front AND REAR at 30K !!, turned again at 48K and turned again at about 80K. Brakes pads just replaced for first time! Have heard that the problem is they had to take the asbestos out of the pads and when they started making pads with high metal content, the pads are eating the rotors up. Have heard a lot of ofther reasons by mechanics that don't bear repeating but made me wonder about the quality of anything else they did.
Door wasn't used that much, compared to driver's door which is always used.
Thanks in advance!
I've only seen foot pedal e-brakes with release handles.
In case anybody else is as puzzled (stupid, actually as I was, just push the brake pedal down again and it pops back up.
Thank you in advance!