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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bh628bh628 Member Posts: 100
    Thanks for the link. I am someone who doesn't know much about cars. Looks like lots of pictures, which helps. If I print off the printable version, I don't have to go from page to page. It's still confusing, because I don't know the basics, like what a "hub" is. But at least I have a place to search that now. I'll bookmark that site for the future.

    Thanks so much!
  • 2kimpala2kimpala Member Posts: 2
    If you have the 3800 series 2 engine gm will correct the problem up to july 31 2005
    gm will replace the upper intake manifold nuts and put sealant in the radiator need more info call CHEVY at 1800 630 2438
  • superdowsuperdow Member Posts: 2
    Hi- the first 4 or 5 times that I apply the brakes when using the car I hear a
    a sound that can best be described as the Moo of a cow or a steer (or the squeel of a power steering unit failure). There also at that point seems to be a bit of squishyness in the brake pedal, though this could be my imagination. the abs light goes on intermittantly. Any thoughts?

    Also, (the car has 4 disc brakes) when chaning pads, should the metal clips that fit on the calipers and on which the pads sit, be greased? (the above problem occurred several weeks after I replaced the pads. I don't think it is related. I must admit I have a bit of a shudder when braking but I strongly suspect this is related to a bad rotor (I did not replace them or have them turned).
  • tagalong100tagalong100 Member Posts: 3
    Yesterday, (Sunday afternoon when no repair shops open) our Impala started blinking the headlights. We went to the car and inside the radio/time light was also blinking and making a clicking sound. We took the key out and it didn't help. Finally, as a last resort, we disconnected the battery. Any ideas? The only thing that has recently happened was that we had a low tire and had to reset the low tire reading through the radio. There didn't seem to be any problems with that. That was about a week ago. Thanks for any help.
  • myk60099myk60099 Member Posts: 1
    hi - i was wondering if you ever found a way to bypass the passlock antitheft without replacing either the whole ignition switch or replacing the passlock device...

    every now and then my car will not start, the security light blinks, all lights, and radio works but it just will not start. I can wait about 10 minutes for the computer to "reset" but what a pain in the *** that is... don't want to spend the 400 - 600 it will cost to fix something that I don't even want in the first place... just like you said it protects the car from the owner instead of the car from the thief.. please let me know when you get a chance..mike
  • dave50dave50 Member Posts: 22
    I have a 96 caprice with the 5.7 LT1 engine. 82k miles. When I pull up to a stop sign sometimes I notice a strong smell of fuel. I have pulled off the air cleaner assembly and looked for fuel leaks and found none. The car doesn't miss or run rough, or leave spots in the driveway. No engine trouble lights either. Any ideas?
  • keneedrskeneedrs Member Posts: 1
    Same problem here that happened 6 times in one day and causes the car to loose power and shutter for maybe 3 seconds when excellerating from a stop. Chevy service said they can't find any problems with the computer check, or message board records, or test driving so I have to take it home with no resolution. They said it will have to get worse before they can do anything. Problem is I almost got hit merging into traffic when the car hesitated.
    Have you found anymore info about this problem?
    When I brought the car in the first time for service there was a Corvette that had the same problem.
  • 2000imp2000imp Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my 2000 LS (suddenly dieing while driving). Is this something that I could replace? Or is it best done by the dealer. Please help,as I too feel like a clay pigeon...
  • dave50dave50 Member Posts: 22
    I had that problem with a 99 4.3L astro. I lived with it for months until finally it threw a code. It is the MASS air flo in the fresh air intake. Ironically, when I was waiting in line to buy one at about $100. A mechanic waiting in the line told me to remove the unit (5 min.) and spray the sensor wires with carb cleaner and put it back in. It did the trick.
  • klucasklucas Member Posts: 2
    I recently had to have the leaking upper and lower manifold gaskets replaced - I had it done by my mechanic for a little less than $800 and this is after I also had the warped brake rotors replaced and I have only had the car for two years - it's a 2002 - shortly before I had the gaskets replaced and after we discovered the leak, I had a situation where I had been driving the car with the air conditioning on, turned the car off and when I went back 15 minutes later the car would not start. We ended up leaving the car overnight and it started right up. My mechanic couldn't find anything wrong but replaced the points and plugs when he replaced the leaking gaskets. No trouble since then until today. I drove the car with the air conditioning on, stopped and went into a store, came out - it started right up and I went on to my next stop, stopped, went into a store, came out and the car would not start. I had to leave the car. When we went back 4 hours later it started right up. It seems to be connected to using the air conditioning since it has never happened any other time. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • blissyblissy Member Posts: 6
  • blissyblissy Member Posts: 6
    I had a clicking sound so I called triple a and they tapped my starter to get it started..had the starter rebulit , next day it clicks ...I let it sit all night and the car started up...It has another starter in it and still clicks , but not when it sits for 8-12 hours..It only clicks when I stop a few times..any help ou there????????
  • blissyblissy Member Posts: 6
    where do I find the ignition module switch,,is it hard to get to?
  • blissyblissy Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 impala with 105 k on it that clicks...put in two starters and still clicks..the car starts up fine if it sits for more than 10 hours...
  • blissyblissy Member Posts: 6
    The bcm is what.Is the part expensive and hard to replace?
  • climer1climer1 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem and can not find any of you replys. Have you heard from anyone. Taking our car into GM tomorrow for the 2nd time. When I back up and thewn put it into drive get the "traction active" message come on and I have to back off on the gas pedal and wait about 3 sec and then proceed. GM cannot find anything.
  • jim_h_bjim_h_b Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I just came across this forum. Excellent information. I have a few questions on my 2001 Impala. For the most part, I've been very satisfied with it, but it's developed a couple of problems that need servicing.

    One, the transmission is slipping. Sometimes from a dead start, it will take a second or two to for the trans to catch. Also, when shifting at about 40 mph, it hesitates.

    Two, this has been going on awhile, but seems to have gotten worse lately. When braking, I'll get pretty strong vibrations through the steering wheel. I had the brakes check at a reputable shop, and they were fine. I know there are often rotor problems, but could this be steering related? It does not make any clunking sound when turning. It only happens during braking, and not all of the time, it kind of comes and goes.

    Third, I have about 50k miles on it. Even if there are TSBs on these problems, will they do me any good? ie, will they be fixed for free? I don't know whether TSB's get fixed at no cost regardless of the milage/age.

    The only reason I would take it to a dealer to get it fixed would be if I had a hope of getting some work done for free. If not, I would take it to a mechanic.

    Thanks for any help.

    Jim
  • snowboardglorysnowboardglory Member Posts: 1
    Ive been getting a "Service Traction System" message periodically the passed couple weeks. It would come on for a minute, then the ABS and Traction Off warning lights would come on. As soon as I turned the car off and back on it would go away. Then it started happening more frequently. As soon as I would drive 5 feet it would come on... and if not then, it would come on as soon as I slowed down to park. Then it just started coming on as soon as I started the car. I was about to bring it into the dealer, when I saw a post that it might have to do with the tire inflation monitor. I reset the monitor, and it appears the light is not coming on anymore! Boo for the inflation monitor.

    But I have small problem if anyone has any suggestions.. Usually the car (2003 impala) starts up instantly, and usually so quiet I cant even tell if it started or not! But sparatically it has a hard time starting. It will take a good couple seconds, very noticeable that it is having a hard time getting started, sounds like a 20 year old car! When it happened once I did hard some kind of clunk noise when it was trying to start. The weathers been about 70 degreesF so its not because of the cold, and it has done it after sitting for only about an hour. Ive had the car for 2 months and its happened about 4 times, the other times flawless. I know on at least 2 occassions the air conditioner was ON, im thinking maybe it had to do with that engaged. Any suggestions? thanks
  • chrisis30chrisis30 Member Posts: 20
    Two, this has been going on awhile, but seems to have gotten worse lately. When braking, I'll get pretty strong vibrations through the steering wheel. I had the brakes check at a reputable shop, and they were fine. I know there are often rotor problems, but could this be steering related? It does not make any clunking sound when turning. It only happens during braking, and not all of the time, it kind of comes and goes.

    a pulsation as the one descibed here is a sign of warped brake rotors you should feel a pulsating up and down as you aply your brake you may also fell a slight vibration upon application of brake pedal

    chris
  • kelfishkelfish Member Posts: 2
    I had this same problem back around 30K when it was under warranty. I can't remember exactly what they fixed cause it's been too long and it was free, but it wasn't brake related at all. It was steering column related. They said it was diagnosed easily cause it was a known problem, but not recall.
  • kwhittumkwhittum Member Posts: 12
    Bring it to your local dealer, they should replace your BCM modular for free which should solve your problems. The BCM controls low voltage stuff, my went bad and had the same symptoms.
  • laurieflaurief Member Posts: 1
    I am having a big problem with my Impala and I hope someone can help me since any shop I take it to has no idea what is going on.

    About 2 or 3 weeks ago my air condition compressor kept trying to turn on making a loud clicking noise
    Three days ago I noticed that when I shut off my car and openned the doors, the radio had stayed on. The next day the same thing had happend and I went into the grocery store for about 15 minutes and when I came back my car wouldn't start at all! My husband is a tow truck driver and I called him to come and get me and before I got off the phone I tried the car again and it started right up! But the Security Lock was displayed in the message centre.

    We took it to the garage and left it there overnight. First thing in the morning my car started fine, they hooked it up to the computer and it came back showing no error messages. They took it for a drive, it worked fine, my husband came and took it for a drive and it worked fine. I went to pick it up and it wouldn't start. The Lock was still on and the mechanic said that it was preventing the start up, but it still wasn't reading on the computer.

    We were able to shut off one of the main power sources to the car, re-boot and it starts up right away but only for one or two start ups and then the security setting comes back on and it won't start.

    I know some people suggested the computer, is there anyway that the computer itself can get checked out or do we just have to replace it and hope for the best.
  • blissyblissy Member Posts: 6
    Hi,
    Did your car start up fine after sitting 8-10 hours? My car would start up fine, but if I stopped for an hour it might not start up..Will the dealer replace the bcm for free with 105 k on it?
    thanks,
  • kwhittumkwhittum Member Posts: 12
    Yes, my car started fine after sitting, further the clicking sound seem to occur more frequently when the outside air temperature was warm (> 75 - 80F). I would at least ask your local dealer, maybe there is a tech. Service bulletin. Dealer have the ability to do repairs "Goodwill" (is what my bill said) I'm sure they then are reimbursed by GM for the repair, which suggests they know they have a problem with these BCM's.
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    Dealerships have limits to their ability to goodwill repairs. 105k miles is too many for a dealer to help. You would need to call Customer assistance and ask them for help. Good luck!
  • correacorrea Member Posts: 1
    Hi im new the site...

    I have a 2000 Impala LS 3.8L. The car has 140K miles on it...Good engine The problem that Im experiencing is: I start the car put it into drive, 1st or 2nd or reverse works fine..But after 5 minutes, I can shift into any gear and the car will not move...engine only revs up. I checked the transmission oil & the shifter cable...fine. During the first 5 minutes, I can drive anywhere no noises, transmission does not slip.
    GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY SOLUTIONS
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    I had the same problem with my 2001 LS......after 32000 miles......the reaction gear in the transmission broke..Shift the car into reverse or forward gear and the engine would just whine and then suddenly after a few seconds the car would lurch ahead or not move at all. I would shut the car off start it up and sometimes it would be ok but after awhile it got worse......I was out of time warranty but continually hounded the service manager and GM ....finally under goodwill GM went for half the cost.. (my cost $1300) the police Impala's have been plagued with the same problems, and many departments moved away from the Impala's because of transmission problems they experienced.
  • rooddog22rooddog22 Member Posts: 1
    We purchased our 02 LS with some 25 k miles on it. We have had numerous :) problems. We hadn't had it long when we had the tork converter replaced as the dealer said it was cracked, I only saw a small occasional drip. Not long after that we had trouble with the stereo over heating and the rear view mirror wouldn't dim. The dealer replaced the radio and said too bad about the mirror but it eventually started working again. The TCS has been a problem for about a year now. I saw on another post, the wheel hub bearing assy. has a sensor that may be the problem. Impala's seem to have a tire wear issue also. As I said at the top, about 25 k miles and the factory tires were so chaffed, they sounded like an off road vehicle and had to replaced them. We put T\A,s on it and have had to have them rotated every 3k miles to keep the chaffing down. We had a 4 wheel laser alignment at the time of the tire purchase. We know of 3 other owners with the same tire trouble. After talking to the dealer and GM they said the specs. are correct for this model. Wisdom is about to beat our love for this car. Great on the hi-way, mileage, comfort, trunk space, handling, interior room and so on. After reading some post here, it seems we are not alone. thanks for taking time to read this and hope no one is offended in any way as none was intended.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    I have a 2001 LS since new.........currently 43,000 miles. Original tires (wearing normal still another 12,000 miles in them no chaffing or uneven wear....rotated every 10,000 miles) The Goodyear GA's tires on the car are not the quietest tires, still the original brakes (probably another 15 or 20,000 left in them).....I know there has been a few with brake rotor problems but its usually attributed to driving habits. Did have a problem as reported in post #1232 other then that 4 years of happy motoring.
  • handypaphandypap Member Posts: 1
    purchasing 2005 Impala tomorrow, lease vechicle,from a dealer,16340 miles,clean,81/2 months old..warranty left. $16,000.
    Would appreciate any comments. ;):D
  • bigtwigbigtwig Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2004 Impala with 48000 miles. I was diagnosed that the rear brake rotors are almost completely rusted through. The dealer has seen this in other W-body types in 2001 cars, but nothing remotely this new.

    Of course my discourse with Chevrolet got me no where. "It's normal wear-and-tear" - ya, but the car is one year old. Rusting that bad is not normal. I'm thinking about a class action suit.

    Anyone else experienced rotor rusting? Thanks!
  • bigtwigbigtwig Member Posts: 2
    You should be able to drive a new one off the lot for about that, especially with the new GM incentive available to everyone. Call a couple of Chev dealers in the area and start a price war.
  • refurnissrefurniss Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: What may cause the rotors to warp? I have 40K+ on my 2004 sedan.
  • chrisis30chrisis30 Member Posts: 20
    well warped rotors could be caused by many things I can think of four right off the top of my head>two footing when you drive (left foot on brake right foot on gas) will overheat rotors,also panic stops if you are following too close too often,also not using your brakes gradually and applying them all at once at the last second and of course not shifting to a lower gear upon desending a steep long grade. and there are probably some others that I'm missing. tell you the truth these days it seems the brakes are out lasting the rotors maybe the brakes are too metalic or the rotors are just too cheap but I guess we can't have both??although thats a real shame when you spend $30,000 for a car a you have to get the rotors cut at 15K
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    To relieve your frustration, I suggest you buy a set of cross-drilled slotted and zinc plated rotors. They can cost as little as $150 per set of 4 or whatever your wallet can handle. If you work on your own car put them on yourself and cut the labor charge. I put on a set myself after having the same problems many on this board have had with rotor warpage. With the replacement rotors I feel as if the brakes work better than new. No more braking vibration or shudders. I hope this helps, good luck. :D
  • kwhittumkwhittum Member Posts: 12
    Does any ones clock consistently run slow by a two or three minutes? For the first three three years my clock was always losing time. I never thought much about it, but ever sense I had the BCM (Body Control Modular) replaced my clock has been keeping time! I wonder if there might be a connection to faulty BCM's and clocks running slow?
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    One reason I am hearing more about these days is the mechanics not torquing the wheels on properly. Too tight and in the wrong order will do it apparently.

    My 01 LS had the rotors turned at 14K, replaced front AND REAR at 30K !!, turned again at 48K and turned again at about 80K. Brakes pads just replaced for first time! Have heard that the problem is they had to take the asbestos out of the pads and when they started making pads with high metal content, the pads are eating the rotors up. Have heard a lot of ofther reasons by mechanics that don't bear repeating but made me wonder about the quality of anything else they did.
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    01 LS Outside rear door handle just half broke last night. Of the two rods that connect the handle to the inside mechanism, one is ok but the other is broke. Will extended warranty cover this? How much will it cost if it doesn't?

    Door wasn't used that much, compared to driver's door which is always used.
  • rodneysrodneys Member Posts: 2
    Simple question for you folks. I have a rental 2005 Impala and I can't figure out how to release the foot e-brake.

    Thanks in advance!
  • rodneysrodneys Member Posts: 2
    Nevermind, I figured it out.

    I've only seen foot pedal e-brakes with release handles.

    In case anybody else is as puzzled (stupid, actually :) as I was, just push the brake pedal down again and it pops back up.
  • dollangeldollangel Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Impala and had some of the same problems as you. They told me it was one of the coils gone bad, they replaced it and haven't had a problem since. Warranty covered mine.
  • dollangeldollangel Member Posts: 7
    Yes I think you could be concerned. My engine does not use any oil between oil changes.
  • dollangeldollangel Member Posts: 7
    Every Impala owner I know personally has had to have the transmission rebuilt or replaced. Costly if not under warranty.
  • dollangeldollangel Member Posts: 7
    I was told that when you have any problem and any warning lights come on it has to happen like three time in a certain time frame in order for your system to send out a code to be pulled from those crazy machines they hook your car up to. Check into it a little more before taking guesses and spending alot of money.
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    Well, knock on wood but among my many problems with my Impala LS, I have 85,000 miles and the transmission has given me no problem. The front suspension creaks and groans and pops (Engine shims installed, hubs replaced); CD radio failed, trim on roof coming off, right rear door handle (the one least used ) just broke, rotors have to be turned every 15,000 and replaced every 30,000 ($500!!) but the transmission is ok so far.
  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Member Posts: 110
    112,000 miles total, 5 accidents, driving from Brooklyn to Albany once a week for a few months a few years ago, and potholes galore in the 5 boros. Transmission is still going strong, knock on fake wood. I had the same rotor problems too for a while, then got em replaced instead of cut and have been ok since. Getting a used 2003 LS this weekend, hoping it's as good as my 2000 Impala.
  • canamguycanamguy Member Posts: 5
    Just an extra.. no problems what so ever with the tranny or the brakes. (knock on wood)
  • rusty13rusty13 Member Posts: 1
    Hello-new here. I bought a 05 brand new about four months ago, now has less than 3,000 miles on it. Several times when I have started it, car will immediately die-always re-starts fine. Almost every time I speed up, usually up a incline, it will miss (the kind you feel, not hear) and "hold back", have also been several times I will put into reverse and it will jert a knot in your neck, not to mention the loud sound. Gonna call the dealer but didn't buy extended warrenty (gut feeling is I should have gone with another car) Really worried. Any thoughts on this.
    Thank you in advance!
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    Get your car back to the dealers ASAP...you could be damaging something the longer you drive it.....your warranty should cover any problems, you still have 33,000 miles on your original warranty with GM. You can buy an extended warranty with GM anytime during the first 3 years that you own the car as long as you are within the 3 years/& 36,000 miles......I am not a big fan of extended warranties.....they are very expensive, but to each his own!
  • dollangeldollangel Member Posts: 7
    You poor soul. I feel your pain. I too have had some of those same problems. My tranny was rebuilt at 96,000 miles.
This discussion has been closed.