Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The leak is the intake manifold if it is the 3.1 L engine. It is common and there is a service bulletin out for an updated intake gasket.
These will NOT be covered under warranty, unless you have an extended warranty and only if you are within the warranty period.
You can have these done at an independant shop and if they need the full text of the TSBs, let me know and I may be able to provide them for you.
#03-06-01-010B Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) - (Oct 24, 2003)
#03-06-01-016 Loss of Coolant, Milky Colored Oil (Replace Intermediate Intake Gasket) - (May 21, 2003)
The steering clunk is also covered under a TSB.
#01-02-32-001C Clunk Noise from Front of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft) - (Sep 12, 2003)
#00-08-61-003 Clunk/Pop Noise From Front of Vehicle (Shim Rear Frame/Cradle Mounts) - (Oct 17, 2000)
Yes, it is something a DIYer can do, PROVIDED that you do not have side impact air bags, which your vehicle shouldn't have them.
Everything is under the seat. There is a heater control module, a relay and the switch. Any one of those could be the problem.
Unfortunately, you need to have access to the trouble shooting info for it and it covers about 20 pages.
Anyone else heard of this problem? I notified the NHTSA of this problem.
TIA
2002 Chevrolet Impala
Spoiler Replacement - Rear Impala
Tools Required
J 25070 Heat Gun
Removal Procedure
Notice
Use of harsh chemicals when cleaning can damage exterior lamps. Suggested cleaners are a mild soap and water, or Varnish Makers and Painters (VM&P) Naptha. VM&P Naptha is a specific type of naptha and should not be substituted by any other naptha.
Open the rear compartment.
Remove the nuts from the rear end spoiler studs.
Heat the rear end spoiler mounting points from the inside, using J 25070 152 mm (6 in) from surface. Apply heat using a circular motion for about 30 seconds.
Remove the rear end spoiler from the rear compartment lid surface using a small wood or plastic flat-bladed tool. Do NOT damage the paint.
Remove the rear end spoiler from the rear compartment lid.
Clean the rear end spoiler adhesive from the rear compartment lid and/or the rear end spoiler using 3M™ Scotch Brite molding adhesive remover disk, 3M™ P/N 07501, or equivalent.
Clean the body panel using VM&P Naphtha in order to remove any adhesive. Wipe the surface dry with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Installation Procedure
Warm the rear compartment lid with J 25070 from the outside, to a minimum of 21°C (70°F).
Important
Do not touch the adhesive backing.
Peel the backing from the mounting surfaces of the rear end spoiler.
Align the rear end spoiler studs to the holes in the rear compartment lid.
Install the rear end spoiler to the rear compartment lid, pressing into place until the adhesive is fully seated.
Open the rear compartment.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Important
Use new nuts/mastic washers in order to avoid a possible water leak.
Install the nuts to the rear end spoiler. Tighten
Tighten the rear end spoiler nuts to 6 N·m (53 lb in).
Close the rear compartment.
Should you decide to remove the spoiler and wish to sell it, I would be interested in it, if it is a 2001 or 2002.
Today while driving to work i felt a slight surging in 3rd and 4th gear.
Checked the trans fluid and it was brown.
(isn't there a TSB for this?)
Anyway took it to the dealer and the solenoid was sticking. Needs to be replaced $1170!!!
This is a 29 month old car with 52K miles.
My plan is to approach the dealer where I bought the car and try to remediate the repair costs on the warped manifold. Anyone ever tried that? The Intermediate Steering Shaft needs to be replaced as well, I'm pretty sure. Wondering if anyone's ever tried to meet the dealer in the middle on any of these chronic problems.
On top of the reply posting, I would appreciate direct email replies from anyone willing to give some perspective.
clee@heraldcity.com
It is a recall.
I asked why there would be a recall on later models than 2000 when the problem was the same in earlier models that 2001-2003, and he shrugged it off.
I'm going to press the issue, for sure.
----------------------------------------------------
Customer Satisfaction Program -- Engine Coolant Leak #03034 - (07/07/2003)
03034 - Engine Coolant Leak
All 2000-2002 and Certain 2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue
Equipped with 3.8L V6 Engine (RPO L36 - VIN Code K)
THIS RECALL IS IN EFFECT UNTIL JULY 31, 2005.
Condition
General Motors has decided that all 2000-2002 and certain 2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue model vehicles equipped with 3.8L (RPO L36 - VIN Code K) engines, may have a condition in which engine coolant may leak at the upper intake manifold throttle body gasket, or at the upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold gasket. This condition may result in a low engine coolant level and higher engine operating temperatures.
Correction
Dealers are to replace the three throttle body fastener nuts and add cooling system sealant to the radiator tank.
Vehicles Involved
Involved are all 2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue model vehicles equipped with 3.8L (RPO L36 - VIN Code K) engines and built within these VIN breakpoints:
Year Division Model From Through
2000 Chevrolet Impala Y9100001 - Y9385472
2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Y9100297 - Y9385464
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix YF100033 - YF353313
2000 Pontiac Bonneville Y4101040 - Y4297271
2000 Buick Regal Y1100004 - Y1304443
2000 Buick LeSabre Y4100001 - Y4297273
YU100001 - YU357893
2000 Buick Park Avenue Y4100095 - Y4297269
2001 Chevrolet Impala 19100001 - 19378249
2001 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 19100004 - 19378234
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 1F100004 - 1F275188
2001 Pontiac Bonneville 14100001 - 14298963
2001 Buick Regal 11100001 - 11338085
2001 Buick LeSabre 14108500 - 14298966
1U100003 - 1U302094
2001 Buick Park Avenue 14108918 - 14298968
2002 Chevrolet Impala 29100002 - 29391929
2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 29100018 - 29391931
2002 Pontiac Grand Prix 2F100016 - 2F293267
2002 Pontiac Bonneville 24100001 - 24245293
2002 Buick Regal 21100001 - 21301745
2002 Buick LeSabre 24100011 - 24245292
2U100001 - 2U306396
2002 Buick Park Avenue 24100009 - 24245294
2003 Chevrolet Impala 39100002 - 39360495
2003 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 39100018 - 39360489
2003 Pontiac Grand Prix 3F100002 - 3F181300
2003 Pontiac Bonneville 34100002 - 34180189
2003 Buick Regal 31100001 - 31275410
2003 Buick LeSabre 34100001 - 34180190
3U100002 - 3U251518
2003 Buick Park Avenue 34100004 - 34180177
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) or GM Access Screen (Canada only) or DCS Screen 445 (IPC only) prior to beginning program repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the program bulletin. The customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the program bulletin has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts required to complete this program are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering requirements. Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) #03-06-01-010B - (10/24/2003)
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket)
2000-2003 Buick Century
2002-2003 Buick Rendezvous
1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV
1997-2003 Chevrolet Venture
1999-2001 Chevrolet Lumina
1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu, Monte Carlo
2000-2003 Chevrolet Impala
1996-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1996-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am, Montana
2000-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
2001-2003 Pontiac Aztek
with 3.1L or 3.4L V-6 Engine (VINs J, E - RPOs LG8, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to change the model Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-010A (Section 06 - Engine).
Condition
Some owners may comment on an apparent oil or coolant leak. Additionally, the comments may range from spots on the driveway to having to add fluids.
Cause
Intake manifold may be leaking allowing coolant, oil or both to leak from the engine.
Correction
Install a new design intake manifold gasket. The material used in the gasket has been changed in order to improve the sealing qualities of the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the intake manifold bolts must also be replaced and torqued to a revised specification. The new bolts will come with a pre-applied threadlocker on them.
This abnormal behaviour isn't confined to the radio, as I have tested the tape and CD player, when the sound is dead to see if its just the radio. The same abnormality affects those as well, until the sound comes on. I haven't called the dealer, due to just being busy.
Any suggestions, comments appreciated.
Open the Dash trim plate (instructions on www.impalahq.com)
Remove the radio (dont worry, it wont lock itself)
Inspect the wiring harness and look for a bent section, or broken section. Cover the exposed wires with electrical tape. You can then also use 99cent wiring loom to cover it better.
Reinstall radio, and dash trim. It should work fine after you find the short in the wiring harness.
The confusing thing here is the difference in recalls between 3.4 and 3.8 model engines. Apparently from what I can ascertain GM has issued recall notices for the 3.8 but nothing for the 3.4 before 2001. But that makes no sense to me.
At this juncture I will be paying $800 today for the replacement of lower manifold intake gasket and (thanks to advice of this forum) the Intermediate Steering problem so often referenced.
I appreciate everyone's perspective here, and advice, which have enabled me to pursue an informed (if still naive on my part) resolution to this problem of leaking engine coolant.
I pitched the dealer service guy on splitting the cost of labor on the job. Hmmmm. Chevy USA guy seems to affirm there is no recall covering the 2000 model year 3.4 engine.
cc
Get it checked right away, and not at whereever they told her the spark plugs were on fire! Good grief!
Thank You for the suggestion. I will check it out. Yesterday, the radio when turned on wouldn't play at all for up to 15-20 minutes when I turned it on. Then all of a sudden, it would come to life and play ok before cutting out and coming back in a minute or so.
-EMTB
With 3.4L engine:
Air Cleaner Element Replacement
Removal Procedure
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
Disconnect the breather tube from the air intake duct.
Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
Loosen the air intake duct/MAF sensor hose clamps.
Carefully remove the air inlet hose from the throttle body and air cleaner cover.
Remove the 2 housing cover retaining clamps.
Remove the air cleaner cover and carefully remove the air filter element.
Inspect the housing cover, seal assembly, and air duct for damage.
Installation Procedure
Carefully install the air filter element into the air cleaner assembly.
Install the housing cover and install the housing cover retaining screws.
Carefully install the air inlet hose to the throttle body and air cleaner cover.
Tighten the air inlet hose clamp.
Install the air intake duct/MAF sensor assembly.
Tighten the air intake duct/MAF sensor hose clamps.
Connect the breather tube to the air intake duct.
Connect the MAF sensor.
Connect the IAT sensor .
With 3.8L engine:
Air Cleaner Element Replacement
Removal Procedure
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector.
Loosen the air intake duct hose clamps.
Remove the air intake duct.
Unclip the two air cleaner cover retaining clamps.
Remove the air cleaner cover and carefully remove the air filter element.
Inspect the housing cover, seal assembly, and air ducting for damage. If a problem is found, replace as necessary.
Installation Procedure
Carefully install the air filter element into the air cleaner assembly.
Install the air cleaner housing cover and reclip the housing cover retaining clamps.
Carefully reinstall the air inlet hose to the throttle body and the air cleaner cover.
Install the air inlet hose clamp.
Connect the IAT sensor electrical connector.
1)Antifreeze leak repaired at 27,000,30,000 & 35,000 miles. still continues to slowly go down. dealer says "Normal evaporation"
2)entire steering gear replaced at 27,000,34,000 & 35,000 miles. Dealer says just bad luck with the remanufactured warranty parts that they use. Agreed to extend the warranty on the steering gear only to 48,000 miles.
3) vehicle currently has 37,380 miles & i just got it back from the dealer where,under warranty,they replaced the catalytic convertor. It was plugged & the car would not go more than 30 MPH.Catalytics should last at least 150,000 miles. if i would have had to pay for all the repairs done on my new car the past 2 1/2 years it would have cost me over $5,000.
Nice looking car,love the heated leather seats but I now accept that they are complete pieces of junk & I have it listed and priced to sellASAP.
Caveat Emptor.
You need to call GMPP directly. I've done that lately, and you get much farther than letting the dealer call it in (some also claim to but don't even bother to call to get more from you).
Good luck.
Ariella: you may try going to your selling dealer and ask for goodwill assistance for this repair. They are not required to help you, but if you've had service work done there, they may be willing to pay for the repair, or go 50/50 on it with you.
I guess the interim "fix" for the manifold doesn't always work (had it done several months ago), and the ISS lube isn't a permanent fix (they said the knuckle was worn??).
It will be interesting to see if GM has managed to permanently fix these issues on the newer Impalas. I hope so, because I really do love this car, and I want to buy another one in a couple of years.
Brad
The invoice cost for all this stuff was over CDN$1,600 - makes me very happy that I purchased the extended warranty! It has now paid for itself more than twice over between this series of repairs and the front wheel bearings.
Even with these problems, I still love my Impala!
Brad
Our '01 LS just had the rotors turned for the 2nd time and the technician left a note on the slip saying they would need replacement the next time. 29k on the car. Still rides great.
Anyway, do yourself a favor do not have your rotors replaced by the dealer. If you want the dealer to install the rotors that would be ok, but bring him the rotors that you want to use, and don't use OEM replacement.
I got raybestos severe duty rotors and ceramic pads and let me tell you what that was the best thing I ever did for the car. I took my parts to a local and trusted brake shop and he installed everything for 40.00. I'm not sure how much a dealer would charge if you brought him all the parts.
Assuming the dealer is the only person you trust right now for your brakes, then sure have the dealer do it but bring him in 2 rotors and 2 sets of pads that you have picked out and bought yourself and you will be very happy with how long your brakes last!
Take Care
gw
The vehicle has, the Clunk in the steering wheel (ISS), and this morning, GM notified me when they were performing an oil change that there are two leaks, one with the upper manifold, the other, I don't remember or care. It would cost me 1,100 dollars to repair. After 90,000km's, that is a complete farce a vehicle has that many problems. I have service records, tons of them.
I was faithful for 4 years, even after a power steering cooling line exploded and the alternator crapped out, I merely shrugged it off as "oh well, stuff happens". This latest is the last of the gong show that I will put up with.
Wife has a 2002 Honda Accord, and drives like a dream, fit and finish is superb. I will probably purchase a used but newer Accord or Civic as well.
Hope all of you enjoy the domestic farce, for a while I did, but then reality set in
Jas
new update on my 2003 ls. If you remember i had filed under my states lemon law. 7 sets on rotors in the first year which i did do a lot of driving i might add. 51k miles. gm was ordered to buy back my ls. i just bought an ss. i get it in a couple of days. anyone have anything to say about them? good or bad....
Sound Output Mode - Stereo
Sound Effects - Bass Boost
Controls - Subwoofer level
Signal-To-Noise Ratio - 105 dB
Continuous Power / Channel Qty - 150 Watts x 4
Amplifier Output - 4-channel
High Level Inputs - Yes
Crossover - 2-way active crossover
Phase Selector - Yes
Bass Boost Gain - 0 to +18dB
Distortion Factor - 0.01%
Amplifier Output Details - 150 Watt - 4 Ohm - THD 0.01% - 4 channel(s) ¦ 300 Watt - 2 Ohm - 4 channel(s) ¦ 600 Watt - 2 channel(s)
Additional Features - Input level controls, cooling fan, VU meter
Connector Type - 2 x audio line-in ( RCA phono x 2 ) ¦ 1 x audio line-out ( RCA phono x 2 ) ¦ 4 x speakers input ¦ 4 x speakers output
Speakers Specs
DUAL 12" Bandpass Box
Made of 3/4" Thickness MDF Board
Black capeted exterior, light gray carpeted and mirrored interior
Two C4-Audio 12" 600 watts/each Dual Voice Coil Subwoofers with Rubber Ring,frequency: 20Hz~500Hz
Two chrome spring connection terminals
Four 5"x4" Chrome Port Tubes
Dimensions: 30 "(W) x 14 1/2"(H) x 16 1/2"(D)
My problem is that I hooked up the line level converter to the amp correctly i think. and the amp to my 2 12" c4 audio woofers,there is bass but it doesnt seem like enough bass. The amp i think is only putting out half of what it should be or atleast sounding that way. I tried different settings on the head unit but nothing more. Oh the converter btw was installed left and right output. I dont know now what is going on they should be louder and I was hoping maybe someone could give me some advice as to what may be wrong. Any ideas or suggestions would be great. Thanks for any help given.
I was most letdown by the manifold leak, because one of the reasons I bought the car was for the "bullet-proof" 3.8l engine. I figured I didn't have to worry about the engine or drivetrain, but that wasn't the case. I'm at 64,000 miles now, and plan to drive the car for at least another 4 years.
Given a choice between driving my Impala and my wife's 2003 Accord EX, I'd take the Impala hands down. It feels safer, it gets about the same gas mileage on the highway, and it's more comfortable (especially on long trips). I've been following this board for over 4 years now, and I've seen a lot of people come and go. But as I stated from the beginning, when I buy a car, I plan to keep it for 8-10 years. As a result, I don't expect to get anything for the car in terms of resale value; I looked for a car that will fill my needs now, as well as several years down the road. I paid it off last year, so if I can drive it for another 64,000 miles with only the occasional malfunction, I'll be content.
I'm thinking of leasing one. I love the car otherwise. I think its a classic and my first car was a 64 Impala, Has anyone here had experience with this car? Except for the supercharger; I think the engine and manifold are probably the same.
HOwever, found one of the foglamp housings was shattered, had to duct tape it back into place. Any one know a good place to order used GM parts on-line?
I'd say you could buy the Impala SS with confidence, its a tried and true engine.
If you want a new one then I can tell you that the people over at partszoneonline are very helpful. I have used them and also I have personally used these places with no problems whatsoever: www.rockauto.com www.gmpart.com and www.gmpartsdirect.com. You can't go wrong with any of those 4 but some are cheaper than others and some have better shipping rates than others. partszoneonline seems to be very friendly and helpful but then again rockauto.com has a very cool parts catalog online that saves a lot of time.
good luck on that part
gw
I think I should just go ahead and buy this darn thing. Do you think they will produce it for a few more years like they did in the nineties or change it some more. I saw a Super Sport of the future on one of the auto shows sites and it was very modern.
Thanks
Then you can go out and get some Raybestos Super Stop Severe Duty Rotors with Ceramic Pads and never have another problem again.
I think that that you could be hit and miss with the ISS Issue, for sure have it checked before you hit the end of the warranty even if you don't feel anything wrong in the front end. I do think that they have resolved the problem, I had it fixed under warranty and now am at 75,000 and haven't had a problem since.
As far as the new model. I have heard that maybe there would be a new impala for 2006. I haven't seen anything from GM on it though.
I guess it just depends on how long you plan on keeping your car and your own personal taste as to whether you go for it now or wait or buy or lease.
Good luck to you!
gw
At 75,000+ miles (bought the car from the dealer used - Fleet rental - yeah I know never buy fleet rentals - but I really liked the car). Coolant leak due to misaligned hose - fixed by dealer under warranty. So far I had the ISS and manifold leak problems serviced under dealer warranty. New brakes at 50,000mi, oil change every 3600 mi. or so. Broken outer tirerod, replace wipers, and one fog lamp. The lamp by the electrical outlet on the center console is out.
The ride is better then my old Mustang (and the Impala is faster -the Mustang was a disaster mechanically by 60,000mi.) and it is better then my wife's '00 Accord LX. The Accord is quicker on the pickup but it is a busy ride and noisy. Everyone prefers to go on long trips in the Impala rather then the Accord.
Well, that's it so far (knock on wood).
I say this because I think that your car was probably manufactured after the recall on the manifold. You might want to ask your service advisor if your car needs the recall done or not just to be safe.
The ISS issue GM says is fixed with a new lube kit but I would deffinately have it looked at before your warranty expires, whether you feel anything in the front end or not.
The rotors are most likely going to warp. If your brake pedal starts pulsing let them fix it for free a few times then get some really good rotors like I did. I got the Raybestos Superstop Severe Duty Rotors with Ceramic Pads and have not had a problem whatsoever since.
My car is a 2001 and I don't regret anything about it, had the ISS done under warranty, the manifold recall done, and the only thing that I have spent money on was the great set of rotors and pads. I have 75,000 + miles.
Hope you enjoy yours as much as we do ours!
I'm new here. I'm shopping for a 2nd car (family car), my wife drives a Camry. Nothing is ever wrong with the Camry that we have, however, I need something roomier, more power, can accommodate 4-5 adults AND must have decent Consumer Report reliability predictor (Impala fits the bill on paper for 2002-03 models, and presumably 2004). I'm looking for value (reasonable price and willing to buy used for 2002-03 models only.) So, what prices did you all pay for your cars, please specify city/state/year/model (base/LS/SS)/price/new or used, if used state mileage at purchase/also would you buy it again or what would you recommend. Sorry, lengthy, but need to get as much user info as I can.
Thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom!