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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
2001 Chevrolet Impala
Wheel Alignment Specifications, Front
Camber: -0.28 to -1.28 Degrees, -0.78 Degrees Preferred
Caster: 2.70 to 3.70 Degrees, Not Adjustable
Steering Angle: -3.50 to +3.50 Degrees, 0 Degrees Preferred
Toe, Total: -0.10 to +0.30 Degrees, 0.10 Degrees Preferred
Wheel Alignment Specifications, Rear
Camber: -1.0 to +0.0 Degrees, -0.50 Degrees Preferred
Thrust Angle: -0.15 to +0.15 Degrees, 0 Degrees Preferred
Toe, Total: -0.10 to +0.30 Degrees, 0.10 Degrees Preferred
Wheel speed sensors are integral with the hub and bearing on most GM vehicles including the Impala, so the diagnosis sounds right. I'd do some shopping for the hub/bearing though, sounds pretty steep.
I have been looking around at cars to replace my old reliable Oldsmobile, and really like how the Impala looks and drives. I usually do my research before I buy anything, and was amazed at all the problems people have been having with the intake manifolds, dexcool and gaskets. From what I can tell, the problems have been around for awhile, and I was wondering if they have been fixed. I have two people I know that drive GM cars that had coolants leaks, and had to have the intake manifold gasket replace. One of them then had to have the head gasket replaced two weeks later. The car was a 2001. Right now the only thing stopping me from buying is concern about these issues. I really like the car, but am afraid to buy it.
Thanks
However, IF you are looking at a 3.4l, Anything built before late '03 is at risk for the leak.
They do have a new gasket design, but it wasn't really available until last year.
There is no recall for the 3.4l (bastards). I was able to split the cost of the repair 50/50 with GM last month (2000 Impala @ 83,000k).
You can check for the leak by looking at either side engine for stains.
If it has been leaking for awhile it will turn the oil milky, and the bottom of the filler cap will look like this: (not mine..)
http://members.shaw.ca/ianrmac/Images/DSC00662-1.JPG
As for your other lighting questions, I don't know of anyone who has figured out how to do the things you're mentioned. At one time there was someone here who was working on figuring out some of those same things, but I don't recall him ever posting a "how to" piece. I think the police Impala can bypass the DRL/automatic lights - might be able to do some digging and figure out what's different on the police versions, and see if you could acquire the proper parts to make that work.
I wouldn't mind so much, but it allows the buckle to hang down and prevents drivers door from closing.
I have a 2000 Impala with approx 95,000 miles on it, I drive it like a maniac sometimes but knock on wood the transmission never hiccuped in the least. Your tranny should not have died at such a low mileage. Make some noise with the salesperson who sold it to you and they usually can push in your favor with the service department a little. Or at least get the service people to listen to you.
At worst, call GM Customer Service, and complain. Maybe it will get them to reimburse half the cost.
Being fairly fearless I took the dash cover off and then removed the HVAC controls; I also disconnected all of the wire harnesses and hoses to it.
Upon inspection I saw that the lights inside were actually LED's. There is no way to replace them directly as they are soldered onto the circuit board inside of the controls.
The main reason I made the effort to get the controls out was that on my base 2000 Impala the fan motor switch no longer works at setting #1. A few pages back someone mentioned that they had the same problem with the fan motor switch and that a resistor was the problem. He had had the dealer replace it and now the blower motor worked on all settings (1-5). However with the LED's burnt out I might just replace the whole unit. I've found them for as cheap as $119.00 US dollars.
I would get a second and third opinion before spending that kind of money....A problem as you described because of metal shavings, transmission would have started giving you minor problems first before giving up all together as it did....I am sure it is transmission related but could be something that would not require the transmission being replaced.....do some leg work and get other certified transmission shops to check it out.....it just might save you $1,000 or so....
I also agree with checking with a certified, reputable transmission service. Not a full-service garage---a transmission shop. I took my Toyota to a Continental shop just for their fluid exchange/filter deal and was making small talk with the guy about the worst transmissions he sees. He said no doubt "Ford" because they don't fix the problem. They put the same parts back in that caused the problem in the first place. He also told me they had a fix for the particular issue with those cars so they don't come back.
My point being it would be worth another opinion or two, AND if the dealer is going to treat you poorly and you don't get satisfaction from them take the car elsewhere.
When replacing the radio, you have to mount the old radio somewhere else in the car (most people put it in the trunk, though I have seen a picture of a radio nestled under the hood!) The old radio is necessary to control several functions in the vehicle. There are several websites floating around that describe the process.
Thx
Ric
With no other changes, have noticed a definate improvement in mpg, nothing tremendous, maybe 2 or 3 mpg more, but definate.
Meanwhile, others are telling me this oil is bad, too thick for tolerances of the 3.8l engine. I should go back to the recommended 10w-30.
I'm thinking of staying with the 15w-40, at least during the Summer.
What are others' thoughts?
If you do the spark plugs, get the spark plug wires changed as well.
Most likely what happened is that when you preset your buttons they were saved in Jazz mode. What you do is reset your presets. For example, press button 1 (the radio tunes to your station) then change your tone to manual, then press and hold button 1 again until it beeps. Then do the same thing for all your other presets.
In theory the way its suppose to work is that you could have button 1 tuned to a rock station and have the tone set to rock, button 2 to a talk station and have the tone set to news, etc, etc.
Let me know how it works out for you
gw
- will not upshift smoothly, at about 3500 rpm I have to take my foot off of the gas a moment, step back on, it upshifts
- will not 'make power' under a load, for example, just came to a stop at a moderate hill, proceeded up hill and cars mildly shudders and bucks - reminds me of my motorcycle when main tank is empty and I hold off of throwing it onto reserve, and try to give it the gas.
All fluids look good, just put in a tank of fresh gas, made sure filler cap was seated properly, will get a new air filter on way home.
Taking it into shop tomorrow.
About a week ago I was driving my 2003 LS at highway speeds when I'd notice the tachometer spike a few hundred RPMs and I'd feel the car jerk just a slight bit. This obviously concerned me, so I waited till I needed gas (about 3/16 of a tank remaining) and filled up as well as added some fuel injector cleaner. After that the jerking happened only a few times and then calmed down for the remaining 100 miles of my trip.
The next day I set up a service appointment with a chevy dealer. Right away they hooked up the computer and found that my 3.8 L V6 was misfiring on all cylinders (problem code P0300), but they weren't exactly sure why. It took two full days to diagnose that the fuel in the tank had a specific gravity that was higher than expected. According to the report, the fuel tested with a specific gravity of .756 and normal tolerance is .720-.730 specific gravity.
To fix the problem they dropped, drained, and cleaned the fuel tank, replaced the fuel filter, and performed extensive cleaning of the fuel induction system, intake manifold, and throttle plate. Total bill? $611.81!
As far as I know everything is working great now. Apparently there are no more misfires read by the computer for the last 30 miles. Additionally, the dealer warrantees this work for the next 12 months/12,000 miles, so if this comes up again soon, they will fix it under warranty.
My big concern, though, is that the whole specific gravity thing is a bunch of hogwash. I did some quick research and according to BP/Amaco the average specific gravity of a gallon of gas is .750. Does anybody know anything about this?
Also, has anyone had any luck with getting fuel companies to reimburse you for fuel-related repairs? The dealer believed it was the tank of gas before my last refill (the remaining 3/16 of a tank mentioned above) that caused the problem. If this was the case, and assuming that the added gasoline fell within normal parameters and mixed evenly with the bad gas, then by my calculations the bad gas would have had a specific gravity of .899!
Unfortunately, most of my evidence here seems fairly circumstantial. Obviously I don't have fuel samples and I don't even have my receipts (lesson learned, keep your fuel receipts!). To top it all off, I bought the last three tanks of gas from different companies, so any one of them could start the finger-pointing game.
Any advice (or consolation) you guys have would be appreciated. If I'm being lied to here I definitely want to know, although I'm not sure what to do about it.
Thanks,
Matthew
Myself, I added Techron every 5000 miles & still had clogged injectors/throttle body issues. I was quite surprised considering I do more preventative maintenance than most people I know. As far as fuel issues & specific gravity, I'd be wary. Just don't sound right unless lots of folks are having the same issue.
I'm working on replacing the plugs and fuel filter on my 2000 LS. I was able to get the front plugs with no problem, however, the back
three look like its gonna be a real [non-permissible content removed]. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get at them.
I'm also replacing my fuel filter. Are there any gotyas I should look out for?
Thanks!
BRAD
The back three plugs are easiest from underneath the car. Make sure the engine is cold. Use jack stands and set the park brake.
To replace the fuel filter, relieve the fuel pressure before you disconnect the lines.
Ric )
I haven't replaced plugs yet, but seems like I read somewhere that you can release the couple of top engine mounts and tilt the engine somehow to reach the ones in the back. I don't remember specifics (and you may have already tried this), but I was thinking when I was changing oil on Saturday as well that I'd have to deal with that sooner or later.