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Comments
Anyway, it sounds to me like you're having a similar situation to what I was having when my car was new. What's happening is your light sensor thinks it's night time and has the dash in night mode. This may be because of the angle of the sunlight not getting into the sensor...just a guess. But, with my car, it seemed to fix itself after a couple weeks. It could have been the change of seasons (longer days, earlier sunrise). I even posted in one of these forums that I thought possibly Chevy has sent a programming update via OnStar. Otherwise, maybe the car "learned" much like transmissions learn to accomodate a driver's habits. My guess is it will "fix itself" once you start your day with daylight and not at sunrise.
Regarding the high beams coming on, double-check the turn signal stalk and make sure it isn't pushed forward toward the dash. In the '06+, high beams are selected by pushing the stalk forward into a second detente (not the pull-back, click/click setup of old). If your headlights are set in high beam, they will be low beam during daylight hours because daytime running lights are always low beam. But, once your car senses dusk (or a long tunnel), it will switch to nighttime mode and go directly to the high beams. Make sense? Also, make sure there are no obstructions on your dash near the light sensor. It's the little tinted bubble at the center of your dash near the windshield.
Good luck!
Got the turn signal part down too. I was used to the click in my Camero and actually prefer it, but I'm used to the change now. Love that you don't have to actually turn the signal on to change lanes.
You mentioned a transmission learning driving habits. Help a non-mechanic minded here and tell me more. I've had some harder than usual shifts lately and once when putting it into reverse to park it jerked so hard I thought someone had hit me.
Some hard shifting has been noted by other Impala owners. I'm not convinced it's a defect because if you drive a certain way, you can set the transmission up for a hard shift. In your experiences, are you accelerating steadily when it happens or possibly accelerating...maybe slowing down as someone pulls in front of you or looks like they might...then back on the gas? If you're letting off the gas and then getting back into it just as you feel the hard shift, you've likely caught the transmission off guard where it was planning on shifting while coasting but the added power from the engine caused the "slam" into the higher gear. I would suggest making a few controlled steady accelerations, maybe a nice slow one, medium, fast, faster and see if it occurs with steady pressure on the accelerator. If it's shifting fine in those conditions, it's probably fine and the hard shifts may have been just happen stance because of your situation.
As for the hard shift between reverse and drive, aside from an issue, I can ask for the more obvious things. Any chance you car was rolling during the shift? Is it possible you have a big foot that was on the brake and gas simultaneously? (I've done that one without realizing it). Aside from that, make note of the conditions if it continues i.e. is it cold outside, is the car cold or warmed up, excessive idling, etc.
Hope that gives some insight. Anyone have any other ideas?
Another quick question on trannys. I'm in a rural area and some of our road have slow limits (30-45 mph). Driving that speed consistently, especially on gental rises, the ride gets a little bumpy or has a vibration. According to the techs the tranny doesn't seem to know if it wants 3rd or 4th. They said they could reprogram but I'd lose some gas mileage. Hate to do that because I normally average 25mpg in mixed driving. Has anyone on the forum had this problem before?
For that slow rolling terrain, if the constant shifting is a nuisance (as it is with several), try shifting into third. This won't hurt anything except mileage (a little) and you can learn your route much like those smart transmissions do and shift back into Drive once you reach some of the more consistent areas.
Regarding those hard shifts, I drive an SS and I have had a couple times where I had a "hard" shift. The result in my case was a lot of tire squealing and a mixture of pride and embarrassment. Some of the folks in the comparison forums criticize the Impala's transmission for being outdated but it is strong and reliable. As you build up more experience with the car, your brain will automatically learn how to avoid those harsh shifts or brace you for them before they occur. Good luck with your Impala and those tiny little feets.
By the way, folks, the light indicating whether I'm using outside air or recirculating is still not working correctly on mine. They replaced a dash component that was supposed to be the fix under a TSB, but it's still intermittently not working. We'll see what they come up with this time as a reason.
My car starts up fine, but many times when I start it non of the guages, radio, A/C, OnStar, Cruise, etc. will work. Turn signals and hazards work fine.
Took it to the dealership one day when it was actually acting up, and the guy said he wasn't getting any error codes on it at all...which I believe, I was standing right next to him in the parking lot. Checked all the fuses, no issues there. He says it could be an ignition switch, but not sure. I'm reading that it's possible it the bcm.
By the way, this usually only happens when it's warm outside. I'm from NE OH, so yesterday when it was 80, they didn't work at all. Today it was 35, and everything worked fine.
Any ideas?????
If you don't get a reply from an Impala owner that have experienced the same problem, perhaps you can post your question in the general Maintenance & Repair board. There are a lot of auto techs that hang out there that could perhaps help diagnose the issue. Here are two topics you might try:
Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
Got a Quick Technical Question?
Good luck!
The BCM is the catch all diagnosis for GM cars these days. It does seem to be responsible for so many of the basic functions of the vehicle and whenever the car starts acting weird, it tends to be the BCM behind it all. Unfortunately, it's hard to diagnose for certain and it isn't cheap to replace. About the only bit of help I can give you is that with electronics, heat will play a role and the fact that yours seems to "behave" better in cooler temperatures would lend to the theory of a cracked circuit board, possibly in the BCM, that is aggravated by the heat. Any chance that on the days that it works, does it get worse later on in the day as the weather warms and the car has been used? That would point further toward a cracked circuit board.
I really appreciate the info!!
Dealer charged $142.95 for diag. test with the following codes B1000, B1004, B1339, B1349, B1440. $233.93 for new BCM and $297 for labor and other stuff for a grand total of $723.00! I think the charge should have been closer to $400.00.
I have tried to contact GM, but no luck so far!
I have pulled the negative terminal off the battery and put in an amp meter. After about ten minutes the draw hits a cycle of 1.86 amps for about 20 seconds then down to 0.04 amps for about 6 seconds, back to 1.86 amps, etc.
I notice a clicking sound under the dash and a faint hissing sound on the radio during the cycle. If I pull the CLSTR/BCM fuse there is no draw at all. If I pull only the radio fuse, I get the same cycle, but with 0.48 amps for 20 seconds down to 0.04 for 6 seconds. I have replaced the RAP relay and no change.
If I pull the fuse for the BCM no change. I have read some posts that the BCM can get fried if you jump start the car (which I had to do about 4 months prior to this problem). How do you know if the BCM is bad? Do you guys have any other suggestions?
Typical good radio draws ~1mA (or 0.001A) in sleep mode.
In typical GM vehicles, the power to radio is supplied by some Power control module. The cycling of 12V on that module could cause radio to re-initialize (with high power), then goes back to sleep. Normally radio get the permanent 12V from this module. It will go to sleep by itself after the IGNITION signal is off (from 12V to 0V, on your Impala) or told to go to sleep by IGNITION off message on vehicle bus (on newer Impala). Within 1-2 minutes, radio would be drawing 1mA only instead of 0.5A.
jt
I spend way too much money on this car keeping it on the road, Granted it now has 124,000 miles, but our other cars don't have this many problems.
I was considering buying another one of these cars because I like the size, ride, and fuel economy (34mpg on my last trip) but I have spent thousands on miscellaneous repairs after 70,000 miles. My wife says buy a different brand and I think she’s right.
If you read my earlier post (going back a couple years)
My dashlights were blinking and I heard clicking noises under the dash. The car had just over 36k miles and the BCM replacement was not covered under warranty!
I had to fight with GM "Chevy" Customer service to negotiate a 50% refund! Back when I had my BCM replaced it cost $360.00. (Pennsylvania Chevy Dealer did repair)
Chevy sent me a check for $180.
Passlock sensor set me back $425! I probably had over 50k on the car when that went bad.
My Impala had every common problem that Impalas are prone to:
Defective BCM, Defective Passlock Sensor, Intake Manifold leaks, Combination Switch problems (Headlights shut off when clicking to High beam!!) Steering input shaft rattle,
etc etc!
Although I received the recall notice for the Catylitic converter, I never had to use it!
GM ought to recall the defective combination switches!
It's fun to drive down the road at night doing 60mph and when you hit your high beam switch, your headlights go out!!
Unfortunately GM will wait for someone to get killed, and after the first billion dollar lawsuit, just maybe they will offer to replace these defective combination switches!
I will never buy another Chevy ever again!
:lemon: Chevy's are lemons!
2001 Impala, 3.4L
1) Power door locks slowly died until they do not work.
2) Rear window defogger inoperable, can't hear the relay clicking.
3) Recently power to the Heater/AC/Blower control panel is erratic, sometimes comes on immediatly, sometimes a few seconds or minutes later. Has nothing to do with temperature.
4) Most recently the fuel gauge is operating erratically, shows full while driving (gas sloshing around). Only time there is a level indicated other than full or empty is when the car is sitting.
From reading comments on this forum I tend to feel it may be the body control module??
Is there any reprogramming involoved? I don't have a keyless entry or alarm, just the basics.
Thank you
BTW, does the BCM control the power doorlocks, rear window defroster, fuel gauge etc. etc. ? I think it does from earlier discussion on this.
Most of these BCM replacements are done needlessly and that is a shame. There is a known problem for the BCM connectors being loose and causing most of the problems described.
If it is determined that it is indeed the BCM that is the problem, then you need to make certain that the updated BCM is installed.
The BCM (Body Control Module) feed all of the body information to the PCM (Powertrian control module), which is essentially the main computer. If the BCM is unable to communicate properly with the PCM, then you have the problems.
Bulletin No.: 04-08-47-003
Date: August 31, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Security Light On, Engine Will Not Crank, Diagnostic Trouble Codes B2958 and/or B2960 (Repair Poor Terminal Connections at Body Control Module)
Models:
2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine that will not crank. Others may comment on the security light being on.
Technicians may find DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) B2958 and/or B2960.
Cause
These conditions may have several different causes. In each case, however, testing of the BCMs (Body Control Modules) replaced for these conditions are frequently found to be operating to specifications and are believed to have been replaced needlessly. A change was made to the BCM hardware in February of 2003. An updated BCM can be identified by a GMAN169 or higher number found on the BCM part label. This hardware change was made to prevent the remote possibility that a BCM, built after the GMAN169 number, could be the cause of these conditions.
Correction
The following are the likely causes of these conditions:
1. Damaged or loose/unseated terminals in these BCM connectors may cause a security light or no start condition:
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B9 (white wire, circuit 1459)
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B12 (black wire, circuit 1835)
^ BCM connector C2 (24-way, grey in color), terminal A3 (yellow wire, circuit 1836)
Important: Use only approved tools for removal and testing of terminals. Do not use unapproved tools to probe a terminal as this could cause damage. Use Probe Tool J 35616-6, from the J 35616-B terminal test kit, to test the terminals in the BCM connector.
2. Check all the terminals in both BCM connectors, focusing on the three terminals listed above, for damage and proper seating of the terminal in the connector. If no damage is noted, follow the normal SI diagnostic procedures including clearing codes and attempting to duplicate the concern.
3. Always check for and clear all DTCs after recharging or disconnecting the battery. Attempt to restart the vehicle only after all DTCs have been cleared. This will help prevent an unnecessary BCM replacement due to false DTCs being set while servicing the battery.
4. A BCM should not be replaced when DTCs U1016 and/or U1064 have been set, even though the BCM is turning on the security light. Diagnose and repair or replace components as directed by the diagnostic procedures for these diagnostic trouble codes.
5. A current or history diagnostic trouble code B2958 in the BCM and a loss of battery voltage due to a battery going dead or a battery disconnect may cause a no start condition upon recharging or reconnecting the battery. Clearing the diagnostic trouble code will allow the vehicle to start.
6. The security light may turn on when the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) or PCM (Powertrain Control Module) does not receive a state of health message from the BCM within a specified window of time. DTCs U1016 or U1064 may set. Upon receiving the state of health message again, the security light will go out and diagnostic trouble codes will go to history. If this happens frequently, the vehicle may exhibit an intermittent or random flash of the security light.
that my fuel Gauge Acts Up Very Bad and gets me Pissed off is no matter how much gas i have in there i can put 3 gallson of gas in there Give or take thats about quater Tank well time when i put in half tank and i go home or to the store and let the car sit the fuel gauge will show the low fuel light and it will stay right around the last line b4 the E line and it will not move up or down but yet when i gas it up it will show how much gas i put in like if i have 3 Gals in there now and i put in 3 more it will Regsiter 3/4 or it will be right on the full line and then it will just go down to the e mark after 12 miles of travel and gas light will come on and i dont have any leaks or anything Gm has just laughed and said Nothing we can do i told them if i crash this car into your Main Office you whouldnt laugh or if i sue gm for all the times this car has let me down and Ect ect
Since the passlock uses resistance to activate it, I am not sure how cutting and putting a switch in will solve the problem. But, if you want to take a chance on your electrical system, then it's your vehicle.
Personally, It's a whole lot better to fix the problem.
My 02 Impala, I had to repair the BCM connector to fix the problem.
Good luck with your problem.
What could cause only one fog light to be out?
its been coming on at least 3 times a week. everything seems to be working fine under the hood. a couple of days while I was driving and putting my right signal light I heard the chime sound going off for at least 30 second. like when you open the doors with the key at the ignition.
now that I recall it happened one time before long time ago
but never pay any real atention to it.
does anybody know what could it be ????
any advise, coments ???????????????????
thanks.
I had copied part of the mssg # 190 wich I think it would answer many questions, or at least give you more info about
the BCM. now my next question ?? how can I have the BCM reset and tested, uploaded ,programed, before I replace it
anyone ????????????try to avoid dealerships they're to expensive and they'd rather replace it. (I called)
The BCM (Body Control Module) feed all of the body information to the PCM (Powertrian control module), which is essentially the main computer. If the BCM is unable to communicate properly with the PCM, then you have the problems.
The security light may turn on when the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) or PCM (Powertrain Control Module) does not receive a state of health message from the BCM within a specified window of time. DTCs U1016 or U1064 may set. Upon receiving the state of health message again, the security light will go out and diagnostic trouble codes will go to history. If this happens frequently, the vehicle may exhibit an intermittent or random flash of the security light.