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Chevrolet Impala Lighting/Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    You gotta help us out a little with a model year at least. Other details like engine size, options, etc. can often help as well. ;)
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Member Posts: 133
    Ooops. Sorry. '06 LT with the 3.5L. Has remote start, auto headlights, traction control and other typical options. Does not have tire pressure monitor.
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Member Posts: 133
    Maybe my mistake. Saw in the '06+ forum where it should be standard. Didn't notice it on the sticker (if it should have been there). Guess I need to read my manal a little closer.
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Nope, you're fine. Our buddy Frank is mistaken...he can't help it, he's Canadian. ;) Right Frank?

    Anyway, it sounds to me like you're having a similar situation to what I was having when my car was new. What's happening is your light sensor thinks it's night time and has the dash in night mode. This may be because of the angle of the sunlight not getting into the sensor...just a guess. But, with my car, it seemed to fix itself after a couple weeks. It could have been the change of seasons (longer days, earlier sunrise). I even posted in one of these forums that I thought possibly Chevy has sent a programming update via OnStar. Otherwise, maybe the car "learned" much like transmissions learn to accomodate a driver's habits. My guess is it will "fix itself" once you start your day with daylight and not at sunrise. :)

    Regarding the high beams coming on, double-check the turn signal stalk and make sure it isn't pushed forward toward the dash. In the '06+, high beams are selected by pushing the stalk forward into a second detente (not the pull-back, click/click setup of old). If your headlights are set in high beam, they will be low beam during daylight hours because daytime running lights are always low beam. But, once your car senses dusk (or a long tunnel), it will switch to nighttime mode and go directly to the high beams. Make sense? Also, make sure there are no obstructions on your dash near the light sensor. It's the little tinted bubble at the center of your dash near the windshield.

    Good luck! :)
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Member Posts: 133
    Yeah, makes sense, but at 7:30 it's good and daylight here. Don't have a garage and where it's parked it on the sunrise side of the house. I'm driving into the sun on the way to work. It usually corrects itself right before I get to work. Had the car since Sept and I've noticed it on and off for a while. Have forgotten it before, but I'll mention it to the tech when I take it in tomorrow for a fix on numerous things ... including the FOB problem (YEA!) Got about 10 ft away this morning and had go back to the side of the car before it would lock with the fob.

    Got the turn signal part down too. I was used to the click in my Camero and actually prefer it, but I'm used to the change now. Love that you don't have to actually turn the signal on to change lanes.

    You mentioned a transmission learning driving habits. Help a non-mechanic minded here and tell me more. I've had some harder than usual shifts lately and once when putting it into reverse to park it jerked so hard I thought someone had hit me.
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Well, I'm not THAT smart on the subject and someone else may chime in here. I'm not even sure the Impala's transmission is one of the "smart" ones but in cars so equipped, to help with shifting smoothness, responsiveness, etc., the computer builds a database of your driving habits and begins to "anticipate" when you're likely to use the accelerator vs. coast and then may delay a shift to a higher gear or shift sooner depending on the situation. From those that have it and have different drivers drive the car after it learns a particular behavior, it can make the car act strangely for the "new" driver.

    Some hard shifting has been noted by other Impala owners. I'm not convinced it's a defect because if you drive a certain way, you can set the transmission up for a hard shift. In your experiences, are you accelerating steadily when it happens or possibly accelerating...maybe slowing down as someone pulls in front of you or looks like they might...then back on the gas? If you're letting off the gas and then getting back into it just as you feel the hard shift, you've likely caught the transmission off guard where it was planning on shifting while coasting but the added power from the engine caused the "slam" into the higher gear. I would suggest making a few controlled steady accelerations, maybe a nice slow one, medium, fast, faster and see if it occurs with steady pressure on the accelerator. If it's shifting fine in those conditions, it's probably fine and the hard shifts may have been just happen stance because of your situation.

    As for the hard shift between reverse and drive, aside from an issue, I can ask for the more obvious things. Any chance you car was rolling during the shift? Is it possible you have a big foot that was on the brake and gas simultaneously? (I've done that one without realizing it). Aside from that, make note of the conditions if it continues i.e. is it cold outside, is the car cold or warmed up, excessive idling, etc.

    Hope that gives some insight. Anyone have any other ideas?
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Member Posts: 133
    Thanks. Most often it is when slowing down and then getting back on the gas as when your slowing for a light that then turns green. I don't jump back on the gas, but it's probably that I caught it off guard. On the parking, I thought I might not have stopped completely and that was the reason too. I made sure to complete stop before backing after that and it did it once but the jerk was not nearly as pronounced. No chance I hit gas and brake at same time. I'm a she with size 5 1/2 feet. LOL

    Another quick question on trannys. I'm in a rural area and some of our road have slow limits (30-45 mph). Driving that speed consistently, especially on gental rises, the ride gets a little bumpy or has a vibration. According to the techs the tranny doesn't seem to know if it wants 3rd or 4th. They said they could reprogram but I'd lose some gas mileage. Hate to do that because I normally average 25mpg in mixed driving. Has anyone on the forum had this problem before?
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Figured I'd start a new thread so the subject would match the info.

    For that slow rolling terrain, if the constant shifting is a nuisance (as it is with several), try shifting into third. This won't hurt anything except mileage (a little) and you can learn your route much like those smart transmissions do and shift back into Drive once you reach some of the more consistent areas.

    Regarding those hard shifts, I drive an SS and I have had a couple times where I had a "hard" shift. The result in my case was a lot of tire squealing and a mixture of pride and embarrassment. Some of the folks in the comparison forums criticize the Impala's transmission for being outdated but it is strong and reliable. As you build up more experience with the car, your brain will automatically learn how to avoid those harsh shifts or brace you for them before they occur. Good luck with your Impala and those tiny little feets. ;)
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    One other thing I/ve heard of with "smart" transmissions is if you have various people driving the same car it will sometimes make the car drive differently from one time to the next. I've heard of parents who drive sedately and let their teenage son (or daughter) take the car out Saturday night, and then on the way to church Sunday morning the folks find the car to lurch and such, supposedly because the kid drove the car hard the night before and the car adjusted to that driving pattern. Could be an urban legend, but just throwing it out there as a possibility.
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Member Posts: 133
    I'll try your tips and see if it makes a difference quietpro. If my son weren't away at college majority of the time I suspect nosirrahg was right. :surprise: I remember 21, too. ;) I used to not be so nice to my cars, but I've taken it pretty easy on this one so far. Guess that's why I'm getting better gas mileage than some mention here. Lowest I've had is 23 mpg one tank when weather was bad for a while and it was slow going.
  • sbrcatpucksbrcatpuck Member Posts: 4
    check the high amperage fuses in the fuse block under the hood for corrosion, on my wife's Monte Carlo she has had several intermittant problems like these as well, I can't guarantee it (I am heading down to put the car back together now to try it out) but it fits all of the problems that I have had (first security light then the radio, but both seem more likely to do it when the engine compartment is hot)
  • gaildotcalmgaildotcalm Member Posts: 1
    My grand-son used my car when he was home on leave from Iraq, & the gas gauge needle quit working, BUT RANGE still works. I noticed nothing else wrong until last week & it dawned on me that the daytime lights do not work either. These 2 things are all that I can find that is not working. Does this have anything to do with a fuse? Being on a limited income, I would like to know if I can do this myself?
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Member Posts: 133
    Sounds like it could be gaildotcalm. Check your manual and see if they are attached to the same fuse.

    By the way, folks, the light indicating whether I'm using outside air or recirculating is still not working correctly on mine. They replaced a dash component that was supposed to be the fix under a TSB, but it's still intermittently not working. We'll see what they come up with this time as a reason.
  • coryb2007coryb2007 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 chevy impala and if I adjust the brightness of the lights inside of the car like on the instrament panel then I hear wierd noises from the speakers and then the radio doesn't work but if I adjust them really dim then the radio will have noise. But no here lately there is always this noise coming from one of the speakers well I think it is one of them anyway. Would anyone know how to fix this problem??
  • essilemessilem Member Posts: 5
    I've read through ALL the forums searching for a possible solution to my problem and I haven't exactly found what I was looking for...

    My car starts up fine, but many times when I start it non of the guages, radio, A/C, OnStar, Cruise, etc. will work. Turn signals and hazards work fine.

    Took it to the dealership one day when it was actually acting up, and the guy said he wasn't getting any error codes on it at all...which I believe, I was standing right next to him in the parking lot. Checked all the fuses, no issues there. He says it could be an ignition switch, but not sure. I'm reading that it's possible it the bcm.

    By the way, this usually only happens when it's warm outside. I'm from NE OH, so yesterday when it was 80, they didn't work at all. Today it was 35, and everything worked fine.

    Any ideas?????
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Hi, essilem. Welcome to CarSpace Forums!

    If you don't get a reply from an Impala owner that have experienced the same problem, perhaps you can post your question in the general Maintenance & Repair board. There are a lot of auto techs that hang out there that could perhaps help diagnose the issue. Here are two topics you might try:

    Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

    Got a Quick Technical Question?

    Good luck!
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    essilem,
    The BCM is the catch all diagnosis for GM cars these days. It does seem to be responsible for so many of the basic functions of the vehicle and whenever the car starts acting weird, it tends to be the BCM behind it all. Unfortunately, it's hard to diagnose for certain and it isn't cheap to replace. About the only bit of help I can give you is that with electronics, heat will play a role and the fact that yours seems to "behave" better in cooler temperatures would lend to the theory of a cracked circuit board, possibly in the BCM, that is aggravated by the heat. Any chance that on the days that it works, does it get worse later on in the day as the weather warms and the car has been used? That would point further toward a cracked circuit board.
  • essilemessilem Member Posts: 5
    Yes, as a matter of fact, it does get worse later in the day and/or after the car has been used. Today (27 outside) everything worked first thing this morning, but I had to make a stop on my way to work. The car only sat for about 1/2 hour to 40 minutes, and of course, then when I started it back up, things were not working. However, after the end of my work day, everything was back to normal.

    I really appreciate the info!!
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    To be fair, I'm no expert, just an educated guess. I work on computers and used to work on bombers for the air force. But, some of the electronics principles still apply. I do feel for you, it's a tough situation to be in. Good luck in whatever you decide. ;)
  • neals1820neals1820 Member Posts: 13
    I think I got ripped off by dealer replacing the BCM for $723.58. 2000 Impala LS with 63,000 miles and car wouldn't start except by jumping. When the car was turned off all sorts of funny things happened, Radio turned on and off by itself, dash lights blinked on and off, funny noises from fuse boxes. We check the battery and everything was OK.

    Dealer charged $142.95 for diag. test with the following codes B1000, B1004, B1339, B1349, B1440. $233.93 for new BCM and $297 for labor and other stuff for a grand total of $723.00! I think the charge should have been closer to $400.00.

    I have tried to contact GM, but no luck so far!
  • padrefan19padrefan19 Member Posts: 4
    :mad: I have a 2002 LS model with 81,000 miles. Everything is stock (radio, etc.). I have a parasitic draw on the battery that leaves the battery dead overnight.

    I have pulled the negative terminal off the battery and put in an amp meter. After about ten minutes the draw hits a cycle of 1.86 amps for about 20 seconds then down to 0.04 amps for about 6 seconds, back to 1.86 amps, etc.

    I notice a clicking sound under the dash and a faint hissing sound on the radio during the cycle. If I pull the CLSTR/BCM fuse there is no draw at all. If I pull only the radio fuse, I get the same cycle, but with 0.48 amps for 20 seconds down to 0.04 for 6 seconds. I have replaced the RAP relay and no change.

    If I pull the fuse for the BCM no change. I have read some posts that the BCM can get fried if you jump start the car (which I had to do about 4 months prior to this problem). How do you know if the BCM is bad? Do you guys have any other suggestions?
  • jntjnt Member Posts: 316
    padrefan19,

    Typical good radio draws ~1mA (or 0.001A) in sleep mode.

    In typical GM vehicles, the power to radio is supplied by some Power control module. The cycling of 12V on that module could cause radio to re-initialize (with high power), then goes back to sleep. Normally radio get the permanent 12V from this module. It will go to sleep by itself after the IGNITION signal is off (from 12V to 0V, on your Impala) or told to go to sleep by IGNITION off message on vehicle bus (on newer Impala). Within 1-2 minutes, radio would be drawing 1mA only instead of 0.5A.

    jt
  • padrefan19padrefan19 Member Posts: 4
    jt -- thanks that info helps....
  • fnonefnone Member Posts: 4
    Did you get this fixed? My car just started not lighting the dash lights when automatic headlights turn on. I'll have to take my car to the shop. I looked at the fuses, but I didn't find anything. What did your repair cost?

    I spend way too much money on this car keeping it on the road, Granted it now has 124,000 miles, but our other cars don't have this many problems.
  • padrefan19padrefan19 Member Posts: 4
    Yeah I got it fixed -- it turned out to be the BCM. I ordered a replacement BCM from Advanced Auto for $100 and then called around to the dealers until I found one that would only do the reprogramming and they charged me $95. We took it on a 500 mile road trip over the weekend and so far haven't had any problems. The dealers wanted between $500-600 to replace and reprogram the BCM which was a complete rip-off, I was just really persistent on this being a DIY fix for me..........good luck!
  • fnonefnone Member Posts: 4
    I just had mine fixed. The headlight switch failed on mine. The switch cost about $150 and the labor was $40± to install it. The old switch was burnt looking on one of the terminals on the back.

    I was considering buying another one of these cars because I like the size, ride, and fuel economy (34mpg on my last trip) but I have spent thousands on miscellaneous repairs after 70,000 miles. My wife says buy a different brand and I think she’s right.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I have an 2002 Impala that had "BCM" problems.

    If you read my earlier post (going back a couple years)
    My dashlights were blinking and I heard clicking noises under the dash. The car had just over 36k miles and the BCM replacement was not covered under warranty!

    I had to fight with GM "Chevy" Customer service to negotiate a 50% refund! Back when I had my BCM replaced it cost $360.00. (Pennsylvania Chevy Dealer did repair)
    Chevy sent me a check for $180.

    Passlock sensor set me back $425! I probably had over 50k on the car when that went bad.

    My Impala had every common problem that Impalas are prone to:

    Defective BCM, Defective Passlock Sensor, Intake Manifold leaks, Combination Switch problems (Headlights shut off when clicking to High beam!!) Steering input shaft rattle,
    etc etc!

    Although I received the recall notice for the Catylitic converter, I never had to use it!

    GM ought to recall the defective combination switches!
    It's fun to drive down the road at night doing 60mph and when you hit your high beam switch, your headlights go out!!

    Unfortunately GM will wait for someone to get killed, and after the first billion dollar lawsuit, just maybe they will offer to replace these defective combination switches!

    I will never buy another Chevy ever again!
    :lemon: Chevy's are lemons!
  • caps620caps620 Member Posts: 3
    Hi All,
    2001 Impala, 3.4L
    1) Power door locks slowly died until they do not work.
    2) Rear window defogger inoperable, can't hear the relay clicking.
    3) Recently power to the Heater/AC/Blower control panel is erratic, sometimes comes on immediatly, sometimes a few seconds or minutes later. Has nothing to do with temperature.
    4) Most recently the fuel gauge is operating erratically, shows full while driving (gas sloshing around). Only time there is a level indicated other than full or empty is when the car is sitting.
    From reading comments on this forum I tend to feel it may be the body control module??
    Is there any reprogramming involoved? I don't have a keyless entry or alarm, just the basics.

    Thank you
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    If you're lucky it's just your battery going out; my 2000 model did some odd things last time around just before the battery gave up the ghost.
  • caps620caps620 Member Posts: 3
    Me too, but I beleive it's not. Power door locks have been inoperable for about 6 months now, other problems cropped up after that. :(
    BTW, does the BCM control the power doorlocks, rear window defroster, fuel gauge etc. etc. ? I think it does from earlier discussion on this.
  • rstraubrstraub Member Posts: 6
    Guess what everybody who needs to get your BCM replaced! Go to NAPA, they have the BCM for just under $100.00. You'll still have to go to the dealer to get it "flashed" programmed. You can get a used one from your salvage yard but every dealer I spoke with said the same thing, "it may work for 20 - 40 key cycles then you're back where you started". That was enough for me to go to NAPA and spend the $30.00 more for their new one. Good luck, Rich
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    How much does the dealer charge to "flash" program it? And being totally ignorant on the subject, do you just hand it to them, they program it, and you install it later? Or does it have to be installed in the car for the programming to happen?
  • silverbugsilverbug Member Posts: 3
    Hello all. I have a 2001 Impala LS and recently, while I'm driving down the road, the headlights will flash (just the headlights, not the parking lights or high-beams), the AC compressor cuts off, and the battery light will come on, all at the same time. Then the car acts right for a few seconds and does it all over again. Even after I cut the car off, the headlights will still flash for about 10 - 15 minutes. It starts doing this early in the morning and gets progressively worse the hotter it is outside. All of the symptoms go away when the temperature outside starts dropping. Even with the BCM unplugged and the ignition in the On position, I have the same problem... any suggestions?
  • padrefan19padrefan19 Member Posts: 4
    I called around to several different dealers and got anything from $150 to $95 (which is what I ended up going with). I drove to the dealership with the old BCM still in, told the tech I had the new one and would pop it in (it is pretty simple to get in and out if you are careful) and the tech just said "I will do it" and off he went. Took about an hour. It does have to be installed in the car for programming to happen. The dealer I ended up at didn't hassle me alot and was happy to get the $95 since the tech didn't have to be watching the thing the whole time and could work on something else while the BCM was programming. Good luck
  • danhilsmitdanhilsmit Member Posts: 4
    I had this flashing thing happen a couple of times. I just finally had one of my friends disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes and then everything seemed to reset itself. I had tried going to the dealership a few times and of course they couldn't make the car do the same thing...so I've just decided that my car is haunted.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Man, I read these posts and just shake my head.
    Most of these BCM replacements are done needlessly and that is a shame. There is a known problem for the BCM connectors being loose and causing most of the problems described.

    If it is determined that it is indeed the BCM that is the problem, then you need to make certain that the updated BCM is installed.

    The BCM (Body Control Module) feed all of the body information to the PCM (Powertrian control module), which is essentially the main computer. If the BCM is unable to communicate properly with the PCM, then you have the problems.

    Bulletin No.: 04-08-47-003
    Date: August 31, 2004
    TECHNICAL
    Subject:
    Security Light On, Engine Will Not Crank, Diagnostic Trouble Codes B2958 and/or B2960 (Repair Poor Terminal Connections at Body Control Module)

    Models:
    2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on an engine that will not crank. Others may comment on the security light being on.
    Technicians may find DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) B2958 and/or B2960.
    Cause
    These conditions may have several different causes. In each case, however, testing of the BCMs (Body Control Modules) replaced for these conditions are frequently found to be operating to specifications and are believed to have been replaced needlessly. A change was made to the BCM hardware in February of 2003. An updated BCM can be identified by a GMAN169 or higher number found on the BCM part label. This hardware change was made to prevent the remote possibility that a BCM, built after the GMAN169 number, could be the cause of these conditions.
    Correction
    The following are the likely causes of these conditions:
    1. Damaged or loose/unseated terminals in these BCM connectors may cause a security light or no start condition:
    ^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B9 (white wire, circuit 1459)
    ^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B12 (black wire, circuit 1835)
    ^ BCM connector C2 (24-way, grey in color), terminal A3 (yellow wire, circuit 1836)
    Important: Use only approved tools for removal and testing of terminals. Do not use unapproved tools to probe a terminal as this could cause damage. Use Probe Tool J 35616-6, from the J 35616-B terminal test kit, to test the terminals in the BCM connector.
    2. Check all the terminals in both BCM connectors, focusing on the three terminals listed above, for damage and proper seating of the terminal in the connector. If no damage is noted, follow the normal SI diagnostic procedures including clearing codes and attempting to duplicate the concern.
    3. Always check for and clear all DTCs after recharging or disconnecting the battery. Attempt to restart the vehicle only after all DTCs have been cleared. This will help prevent an unnecessary BCM replacement due to false DTCs being set while servicing the battery.
    4. A BCM should not be replaced when DTCs U1016 and/or U1064 have been set, even though the BCM is turning on the security light. Diagnose and repair or replace components as directed by the diagnostic procedures for these diagnostic trouble codes.
    5. A current or history diagnostic trouble code B2958 in the BCM and a loss of battery voltage due to a battery going dead or a battery disconnect may cause a no start condition upon recharging or reconnecting the battery. Clearing the diagnostic trouble code will allow the vehicle to start.
    6. The security light may turn on when the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) or PCM (Powertrain Control Module) does not receive a state of health message from the BCM within a specified window of time. DTCs U1016 or U1064 may set. Upon receiving the state of health message again, the security light will go out and diagnostic trouble codes will go to history. If this happens frequently, the vehicle may exhibit an intermittent or random flash of the security light.
  • slvimpalaslvimpala Member Posts: 14
    hey I'm an Owner of an 2002 Impala Base with the Crappy 3400 v6 and i noticed un like my other impala my 2004 Impala SS
    that my fuel Gauge Acts Up Very Bad and gets me Pissed off is no matter how much gas i have in there i can put 3 gallson of gas in there Give or take thats about quater Tank well time when i put in half tank and i go home or to the store and let the car sit the fuel gauge will show the low fuel light and it will stay right around the last line b4 the E line and it will not move up or down but yet when i gas it up it will show how much gas i put in like if i have 3 Gals in there now and i put in 3 more it will Regsiter 3/4 or it will be right on the full line and then it will just go down to the e mark after 12 miles of travel and gas light will come on and i dont have any leaks or anything Gm has just laughed and said Nothing we can do i told them if i crash this car into your Main Office you whouldnt laugh or if i sue gm for all the times this car has let me down and Ect ect
  • thekrautthekraut Member Posts: 7
    I started looking for info on 2003 Impala security/no start problem. Was directed to a Grand Prix discussion that had lots of these problems. One fix mentioned was cutting a wire in the Passlock harness and putting in a switch. Does this fix work on an Impala? Thanks for any help anybody can furnish!
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    One fix mentioned was cutting a wire in the Passlock harness and putting in a switch.
    Since the passlock uses resistance to activate it, I am not sure how cutting and putting a switch in will solve the problem. But, if you want to take a chance on your electrical system, then it's your vehicle.

    Personally, It's a whole lot better to fix the problem.
    My 02 Impala, I had to repair the BCM connector to fix the problem.
    Good luck with your problem.
  • okiejohnokiejohn Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone give me a reference or instructions on how to remove the light switch in a ’01 Impala LS? The dash lights don’t come on and I thought I would make sure the switch is bad before going any further but I don’t know the correct way to get it out.
  • silverbugsilverbug Member Posts: 3
    I appreciate your concern! I actually removed the BCM from the black case it was in under my dash after all this started happening. There is a spot on the BCM where the solder is black and one of the resisters is loose. It looks like the resister burned up (maybe from the excessive Texas heat or from some surge) so I just went ahead and ordered a replacement BCM from the gmpartsdirect website ($300 cheaper than what it would've cost at the dealer). Reguardless, I still have to have it programed by the dealer when it gets here, which was quoted at being about $75. Now if that doesn't fix my AC/Blinking headlights/traction control problems, then I will be pretty upset. I'm pretty confident that it will though because once my car starts acting up, and I reach down and mess with that blown resister (or whatever) everything starts working fine again. It should be here by Wednesday (August 8th) so we'll soon see!!
  • kdconodkdconod Member Posts: 53
    I have a 2000 LS...and one of my fog lights, the driver side, is out. I replaced the bulb and cleaned the socket but it won't come on. Passenger side is OK, all the fuses are OK.

    What could cause only one fog light to be out?
  • shelleypaceshelleypace Member Posts: 3
  • shelleypaceshelleypace Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Impala that about a year ago started exhibiting strange electrical behavior. It starts fine and runs fine but all the electrical gauges including the speedometer "bounce". They all seem to bounce in time to a blinking light like the seatbelt light. The only way we can tell how fast we're going or how much gas we have is to see approximately the highest point of the bounce. Not the best of situations for a college kid's car. Has anybody else had this problem? Could it be the BCM I have been reading about? :confuse:
  • silverbugsilverbug Member Posts: 3
    Shelley, does your speedometer "Bounce" only when a light is blinking? Like the blinkers, hazards, etc... or does it do that all the time. I am by no means a car expert but I really don't think it would be the BCM. Most gauges in cars are controlled by a vacuum of air (not sure about that in Imapala's though) same with the Air Conditioning controls. If I were to take a stab at your situation, it sounds more like the battery or maybe the alternator is starting to fail, and when a light blinks, more amps are being pulled from the battery which causes anything with any type of electrical relation, including the engine, to "drag". You can go to most auto parts stores these days and have both the battery and alternator checked for free, before spending an extravagant amount of money at a dealer or other shop. I would recommend that first.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    The last time the battery went out in my 2000 Impala I noticed strange electrical stuff going on; mainly associated with the radio...things like pushing a steering wheel button to change the station, and it would go into seek mode but never lock in on a station and such. I couldn't figure it out and thought the radio was going bad, and then within a week or so the battery went dead. I replaced it and everything was back to normal. Could very well be the same problem in this case, but presenting itself in a slightly different way.
  • smucksmuck Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Impala and about a month ago my check engine light,hi beam out message,faulty fuel gauge,and my a/c compressor would turn on then off repeatedly.My transmission would shift hard at times.Took it to the dealer on tuesday the 7th of August and they said my valve body and PCS in the tranny needed rebuilding and my fuel level sensor needed changing.At first they couldn't figure out why the "hi beam out mesage" or the a/c problem.I must back up.While driving down the road the check engine light would come then go off as fast as it came on.Then day or night, brights or dims the "hi beam out" message would come on and also go out fast.The dealer wasn't really concerned about the a/c or the hi beam problem just the tranny problem.They said they never had one that flash that code.So I said there is a ton of Impalas on the road and there has to be someone else that had that error code.So I told them that they weren't touching the tranny until they could explain the "hi beam out" message and the a/c problem. Well it took 2 days but they finally changed the BCM.Any similar problems?My main concern is the tranny.They say its mechanical but I feel its electrical
  • nelsonrnelsonr Member Posts: 9
    I have an 04 impala base. about 4 months ago the security light would come on sometimes, I would turn off the engine and turned it back on and it would dissapear. but lately
    its been coming on at least 3 times a week. everything seems to be working fine under the hood. a couple of days while I was driving and putting my right signal light I heard the chime sound going off for at least 30 second. like when you open the doors with the key at the ignition.
    now that I recall it happened one time before long time ago
    but never pay any real atention to it.
    does anybody know what could it be ????
    any advise, coments ???????????????????
    thanks. :)
  • nelsonrnelsonr Member Posts: 9
    read mssg # 190 jul/29
    I had copied part of the mssg # 190 wich I think it would answer many questions, or at least give you more info about
    the BCM. now my next question ?? how can I have the BCM reset and tested, uploaded ,programed, before I replace it
    anyone ????????????try to avoid dealerships they're to expensive and they'd rather replace it. (I called)

    The BCM (Body Control Module) feed all of the body information to the PCM (Powertrian control module), which is essentially the main computer. If the BCM is unable to communicate properly with the PCM, then you have the problems.

    The security light may turn on when the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) or PCM (Powertrain Control Module) does not receive a state of health message from the BCM within a specified window of time. DTCs U1016 or U1064 may set. Upon receiving the state of health message again, the security light will go out and diagnostic trouble codes will go to history. If this happens frequently, the vehicle may exhibit an intermittent or random flash of the security light.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I think I read somewhere that the Impala will chime if you leave your turn signal on for an extended period of time. Not sure that was the situation in your case, but that's about the only logical answer I could think of.
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