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Comments
damn hated light might come on if the ignition key shows
signs of excessive use (worn out)***this is only one of 1,000000 reasons **********************because the computer
isn't getting a full reading of the key, and it can also
kinda delay your ignition when starting up the car.
he said to replace the key. I called the dealer it would
cost me about $ 12 bucks.isn't too bad. im trying this first
Thanks
Robert
schaffnerjr@cs.com
but I am damn sure it will come on tomorrow just because im
writing about it. I dont know anymore. I haven't had the chance to go get the key made, but I will some day.
does anyone know about this problem ?????
lowes got the key for $$4.80
home depot for $$ 4.00
wal-mart $$ 3.50
dealer $$ 12.00
I have recently had the same/similar problem. I now no longer have any instrument cluster light. The turn signal, cruise, idiot lights all work and so does the gear indicator (but it is extremely dim). I have checked the fuses and they all seem to be OK. I have no idea if it could be the BCM or not as it's only the illuminating lights in the dash that have been effected. Please help.
Thanks,
Many thanks.
I have the same security light/no start problem on my 02 impala.
I tried to remove BCM from under dash but did not succeed. I can see a black box with 3 connectors ( I suspect it is BCM ). But somehow it seems hard to get it out since there is very limited space around. I tried to remove connectors first but did not find the right clip to disengage them.
Just wondering if you could give me some glue on how to disengage the connectors and get the BCM out.
Many thanks.
http://mysite.verizon.net/hhlloregon/bcm01.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/hhlloregon/bcm02.jpg
Is it possible that the BCM is defective? Your inputs are greatly appreciated.
Solder flux is used for helping the soldering process: make solder flows better and reduce short between adjacent pins. It is no difference than the solder flux that we use at home for soldering water copper pipes.
The conformal coating material is a liquid coating to insulate the electrical circuits from moiture condensation (that causes virtual short or detuning circuitries). That use is common in some vehicle modules
I do not think they are electrical burn marks. Besides, if they are burn marks, you should recognize the electrical burn smell right away upon opening this box.
I have read somewhere in the Impala discussions about the cause of most BCM module problem is on the main connectors themselves : intermitten due to loose terminals (metal mating parts of the connectors). That causes the BCM computer to go crazy.
jt
On our '00 Impala, it has the "homelink" feature and all works fine except that the outside temperature reading is about 10-12 degrees colder than actual.
I've noticed a variable setting, but nothing about it in manual and from "trying it" I can't seem to calibrate it.
Does anyone know how to calibrate this thermometer setting ?
Thanks in advance !
I have the same problem and have not yet fixed it. The calibration is for the compass zone, not the temperature on my car. I'm guessing that I'll have to replace the computer or the temp sensor. I decided to wait until I need service on something else before I have it looked at.
Rob
"BCM - Security Lamp ON/No Crank/DTC's Set
Bulletin No.: 04-08-47-003
Date: August 31, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Security Light On, Engine Will Not Crank, Diagnostic Trouble Codes B2958 and/or B2960 (Repair Poor Terminal Connections at Body Control Module)
Models:
2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
Condition:
Some customers may comment on an engine that will not crank. Others may comment on the security light
being on. Technicians may find DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) B2958 and/or B2960.
Cause: These conditions may have several different causes. In each case, however, testing of the BCMs (Body
Control Modules) replaced for these conditions are frequently found to be operating to specifications and are
believed to have been replaced needlessly.
The following are the likely causes of these conditions:
1. Damaged or loose/unseated terminals in these BCM connectors may cause a security light or no start
condition:
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B9 (white wire, circuit 1459)
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B12 (black wire, circuit 1835)
^ BCM connector C2 (24-way, grey in color), terminal A3 (yellow wire, circuit 1836)
Blah blah blah, etc...etc..
SO...they use the words "replaced needlessly" and "likely caused by" yet attached to this I have an estimate to replace part# GM10489422 module at a cost of $700 total parts including labour. I now find that the part number is an Electric Ignition Control Module. Huh??
I want to get the BCM removed so anyone with info or tips please let me know. The yellow spots on the circuit board someone is referring to are indeed solder flux, a very normal thing to find and is NOT the problem. What one needs to look for is cracked solder connections. Those usually show up as a small crack or ring around the solder connection and most often when found are on the larger type connections such as the posts which a plug goes onto.
Cracked, cold or otherwise poor solder connections is imho probably the single most common reason for equipment failure, of any type. The second most common problem is electrolytic capacitor failure which has become almost epidemic in the past few years. I dont see any electrolytic capacitors of crap on the picture of the BCM module.
I'm an electronic tech and in the past 25 years or so I've repaired 1,000's of bad solder connections on circuit boards and modules in various equipment (not vehicles) and the pattern is always the same. This module is not any different in construction than one found in a TV, computer or similar electronic device. I need to get it out and inspect it closely. While it's out I will most likely resolder all connections on the plug posts and check the plugs for corrosion or other problems.
Now I need to be able to get it out, if the father inlaw allows me to try this. Any info someone may have to get this thing out would be appreciated
I would of course post my findings here if I got through with the removal, inspection (and hopefully repair).
I know if that was my module, out of the car like that one is, I'd be resoldering every one of those joints.
1. Damaged or loose/unseated terminals in these BCM connectors may cause a security light or no start
condition:
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B9 (white wire, circuit 1459)
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B12 (black wire, circuit 1835)
^ BCM connector C2 (24-way, grey in color), terminal A3 (yellow wire, circuit 183
Based on this info, it is not the BCM pin (inside the BCM module) not soldered properly. The problem is limited to the vehicle wiring harness that is connected to the BCM module.
Every copper wire is terminated with a metal terminal by crimping . The terminals (female type) are then inserted into the vehicle connector housing. I bet either the crimping job were bad or the terminals got loose from the connector housing and then cause electrical disconnection.
Good luck
jt
Here's some photos of how to do it:
http://www.flickr.com/gp/93599926@N00/7ru3N6
The hazard switch is GM part #10359031
http://www.gmpartsdepartment.com/
In fact very few mechanics have the equipment and knowledge to perform this kind of hacking (I believe most dealers don't know how to do that either except ripping you off for no-sure fix). I also found a link at other forums
http://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm
Follow the procedure and you should be able to bypass the PASSLOCK system too.
Good luck to everyone who has trouble with the security/no start problem.
Any ideas on where this water could be coming from??
same.symptoms.
I tried silicone around the headlight lenses. Seemed to lessen the amount of water/moisture.
Problem still occurs occasionally!
My 02 Impala is a total lemon!
I will never buy CHEVY again!
I had to have the dealer replace the BCM right after the factory warranty ran out!!
Then a year later the "Passlock" sensor went bad!
Not to mention I have to put stop leak in the radiator because the intake manifold gasket leaks!
My High/Low Beam combination switch doesmn't work properly!
Some times when I switch to high beam the lights shut off!
If GM doesn't recall these defective headlight switches, some one is going to get killed!! Can you say "Class action law suit?" :lemon:
My new Japanese SUV hasn't given me any problems!
I.also.have.the.bcm.replaced.to.correct.the.other.problems.
Because.my.traction.control.comes.on.all.the.time.and.the.
security.light.comes.on.while.driving.and.the.tachometer.is.really.eratic.Not.to- .mention.the.battery.is.dying.every.
night.Thanks.for.the.help
What year Impala do you have? and what model?
I would replace the "passlock" sensor if you have the intermittant "no start" problem.
Typical symptoms of a defective BCM is the clicking noise in the dash, air bag warning lights stay on, headlights blink erratically, and security light flashes.
:mad:
If you have the original battery, change it.
That solved my father inlaw's problem. He changed the battery about 4 weeks ago and the no start problem hasnt occurred since!
In any event, if you start experiencing weird electrical issues with your Impala, you might want to pack a set of jumper cables just in case! :-)
I believe if you turn the knob
My 02 Impala does the same thing. I just turn up the dimmer switch.
mom had a-89 baretta,and it was another one where the turn signal and brake lites were always screwed up,and she bought it new!!
..i stear clear of G-ENERAL M-ALFUNTION products,and it's a shame,they used to be the industry standard..when they can't turn out a product with the electrical systems any better than the english,it's time to close the doors and go home!!
Anyone out there have experience replacing the dimmer switch; any help for intimidator3cs? Thanks, Clark
The general perception out there, perpetuated by the press, is that American makes are inferior. But, the folks who are parroting those claims usually have no idea about the modern car business nor any mechanical knowledge about how a car "works." Once the seed is planted, owners of American cars will see every minor flaw as proof of the American car curse while owners of import brands will discount any problem as an exception to the rule. If you look for negatives, you'll find them just as you would positive attributes.
Even though the Impala is an old design underneath its fairly fresh skin, it's a great car for the money. It's packed with features, many of which aren't available on its competitors, and the major technology is tried and true. Are there some recurring problems, sure (the ISS comes to mind). But, most are annoyances rather than REAL problems. In addition, repairs are usually half of what they would be with a Japanese or European brand (and that's being generous).
Before anyone buys a car, they should feel confident in their decision and have confidence in the company to which they're paying such a large amount of money. If not, then they only have themselves to blame. Wallowing in self-pity and blaming problems on an old truth isn't an effective way of dealing with problems.
I can't believe GM doesn't recall this item!! I have driven down the road and my headlights have gone out when switching from high to low beam!!
Eventually, after someone gets killed, GM may respond after the family of the deceased sues them.
I've had American Cars almost all my life- my 1967 Nova with the inlicne 6cyl was more reliable than my 2002 Impala!
Chevy just doesn't care about quality or customer service any more! :mad:
The Impala is a complete lemon! :lemon:
So far my impala had:
1) Defective BCM (causes "security light to blink and headlights/dashlights to blink)
2) Defective Passlock sensor (Ignition system- causes delay in the key working properlY)
3) Defective intake manifold gasket (leaks antifreeze!)
4) Defective Combination switch (headlights go out while driving at night!)
5) Steering wheel noise (defective input shaft)
These items should be part of mass recall!!
I actually purchase a Japanese SUV last year. 18k miles with no problems!!
Bye bye Chevy!!
I have an 01 with a 3.4 L engine, and I have experienced many of the same strange electrical problems as many of you on this thread. Specifically, I have encountered the following:
- Intermittent no start/no click/no crank - no nothing
- Parasitic drain on the battery that can be traced to the circuit hosting the BCM/CLSTR fuse
- Radio possessed by the devil
- Interior lighting that turns on and off whenever it wants to.
- ABS light on constantly
- No trouble codes set
- I honestly don't know how much $$ I have spent replacing perfectly good parts.
Now, some of the common issues I've seen on this thread that my car has NOT exhibited (at least not yet):
- Flashing security light
- Combination headlight switch
- Four-way flasher switch.
Here is what I've done so far:
By last week, I had hit so many dead ends with this car, that I decided to roll the dice and buy a new BCM. I installed it, and much to my delight, my car started right up every time, and there was no sign of the other issues either. This excitement was short-lived however, because about six hours later - all the problems were back.
So, after I finished an epical temper tantrum in my driveway, matched only by the great Steve Martin, I proceeded to: (1) print off about 100 pages of wiring diagrams and (2) rip apart my dash. I chose to go after the parasitic battery drain first, since I thought that would be easier to find (and I was hoping it was all related).
After about a week, I finally found it. I actually have 10 volts of power coming OUT of the BCM on the Ignition 0 circuit (#1500) - even with the key off. This is the purple wire in position A12 entering the BCM via connector C1 (the pink connector). If you have access to a wiring diagram for this circuit, you will notice that this wire is supposed to SUPPLY voltage to the BCM, not carry it from the BCM. Also note that there should be NO voltage on this circuit unless the ignition switch is in the "run" position.
This leads to the parasitic drain on the battery, but the BCM itself is not using the power, it is supplying it to the instrument panel cluster (the "I/P") via the purple wire in position A8 of the I/P connector (Ignition 0, or circuit #1500). This voltage, in turn, powers the servo motors in the I/P that control the guages. However (in my case at least) although it is not noticeable simply by looking at the I/P, these motors are using enough power (about 500+ m/a) to drain the battery in short order. At this point, I cannot place any blame on the I/P itself, because it is just using the power that is being sent to it.
More (perhaps even MOST) importantly, I cannot blame the BCM either. Although it has a problem, it is not THE problem. You see, I still have my old BCM as well as the new one, and it also has voltage exiting the BCM on the "A12" wire. In other words, there is a short somewhere else in the car that is "blowing" the BCM. So it doesn't matter how many of these things I buy, I will not have a permanent fix until I find the true culprit.
So in summary, if you have similar issues, you may not want to go blow $400 on a new BCM just yet. Perhaps you may want to instead learn from my rather expensive mistake.
Now that I know what happened, I am going after the real culprit. This is not easy when you don't know where to begin, so I am trying to locate a company that will analyze my BCM's circuit board. This should tell me which circuit is shorted. Then I will find the problem, and post it here.