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Comments
My fix was to replace the Body Control Module. "BCM"
Chris
I have almost every other one though:
Hazard button/blinker shorting problem
Transmission hard shifts
Service Traction System with trac off/abs lights
Service engine soon (stuck thermostat)
Accessory outlet in front does not work
Steer shaft rattles
Break wearing problems (all four)
Warped Rotors (rear)
Head lights randomly shut off / multifunction switch broken
Heated seat driver side dead
email- tmurtha2@yahoo.com
My problem was the Body Control Module. (BCM)
-XM would blank out, change channels then cutout entirely.
-AM/FM/CD would work. Then the AM/FM/CD would start doing the same.
-Low or no volume and total shutdown of the radio.
-Fuses are ok.
-Onstar is in the vehicle but I do not subscribe.
-The problem does not appear to be stopped or repeatable by tapping, moving bumping the radio.
I removed the unit, checked the plugs and wiring and did not see any problems.
I took the car to a local well known and reliable AC Delco authorized repair shop. They placed the radio on the bench and found "numerous" codes in the radio including a "Class 2" trouble code, which apparently refers to a loss of communication to the BCM. They cleared the codes with their TECH II, reinstalled the radio and connected the TECH II again and found no codes present. The techs also looked at the amp in the trunk between the speakers and told me it was not the problem type of amp they have worked on before. The problem seemed resolved until it started again. I also disconnected the Onstar module in the trunk. Radio worked fine for several days then started again. The spooky thing is now the speakers in the car will emit popping and motor boating sounds with radio off, no keys in ignition by opening the door. It is a random problem. I have seen posts regarding the BCM as a possible cause of numerous electrical problems. Could it be the BCM or wiring somewhere in the car?
Sorry for the long post-hopefully someone will recognize the symptoms and provide some clues as to the problem.
Thanks!
Bill
I had the same problem with my 2002 Impala. Headlights flashing and dashlights blinking. Once the new BCM was installed everything was fine. Brace your self for a $400. repair bill!
Yesterday my ABS light came on and i heard the pulsing of the brakes. The light has went off and came back during the same drive. heard pulsing while i was turning but not every time. any help on what a fix for this is or how serious this problem is.
My '05 Impala has run pretty well overall since I purchased it new in 2005. It has 74k on the odo. However, about 2 weeks ago a strange electrical problem occurred and continues. The radio (XM/AM/FM/CD) started making poping noises from the speakers:
-XM would blank out, change channels then cutout entirely.
-AM/FM/CD would work. Then the AM/FM/CD would start doing the same.
-Low or no volume and total shutdown of the radio.
-Fuses are ok.
-Onstar is in the vehicle but I do not subscribe.
-The problem does not appear to be stopped or repeatable by tapping, moving bumping the radio.
I removed the unit, checked the plugs and wiring and did not see any problems.
I took the car to a local well known and reliable AC Delco authorized repair shop. They placed the radio on the bench and found "numerous" codes in the radio including a "Class 2" trouble code, which apparently refers to a loss of communication to the BCM. They cleared the codes with their TECH II, reinstalled the radio and connected the TECH II again and found no codes present. The techs also looked at the amp in the trunk between the speakers and told me it was not the problem type of amp they have worked on before. The problem seemed resolved until it started again. I also disconnected the Onstar module in the trunk. Radio worked fine for several days then started again. The spooky thing is now the speakers in the car will emit popping and motor boating sounds with radio off, no keys in ignition by opening the door. It is a random problem. I have seen posts regarding the BCM as a possible cause of numerous electrical problems. Could it be the BCM or wiring somewhere in the car?
Sorry for the long post-hopefully someone will recognize the symptoms and provide some clues as to the problem.
Thanks!
Bill
I can't help but think that this was the original problem and they misdiagnosed. Too coincidental for them to fail at the same time.My fear is I'm going to replace the battery and then discover there is something else amiss.
Hopefully, this post isn't so old that no one responds!
Thank you!
The car wasn't even 3 years old but it had over 36000 miles on it so the warranty was expired. I paid $360 to have the BCM replaced and I fought with GM Customer Service and they agreed to refund me for half the repair costs. About a year later my Passlock sensor burned out. That was about $400.00 to replace. I had to replace my headlight hi/lo beam combination switch because the headlights would go out when I switched to high beams. This is really unsafe when you are driving down the highway at nite and your headlights go out!
Chevy should have recalled both the BCMs and Combination Switches!
Also my intake manifold was leaking so I had to add a can of stop leak in the radiator.
It was cheaper than paying the Chevy Dealership $600 to replace the gasket.
Chevy's are total junk!! :lemon:
I am disgusted that our tax dollars are bailing them out!
I will by [non-permissible content removed] Cars from now on!! Detroit hasn't built a decent car since 1967!
My 1967 Chevelle Malibu was more reliable than my 2002 Impala!!
:mad:
What are your thoughts on the fact that I replaced the BCM and the very next day the battery was "deader than dead". Just seems odd that they checked everything when I was there and the very next time I go to start it after taking it home from the dealership - it won't start! Do you think there is any possibility it was a false diagnosis? I just needed a new battery NOT a BCM? Or is just like this one thing after another fails....
I want to sell it and buy a Honda, Toyota...even a Nissan would be better than this aggravation!
Thanks for replying!!
My '06 Impala has just about 42,500 miles on it. I bought it new 3 years ago.
While it was still under warranty, it needed its fair share of repairs. Brakes, power steering, steering shaft, water pump. There were also some other repairs I could have had done under warranty, but elected to avoid the hassle. The problems were frustrating, but were resolved. I have been car shopping, and have included some GM models on my list.
My parents had an '03 Impala LS. They put about 43,000 miles on it and had no issues other than 1 recall. They wanted something new and traded it a couple of years ago.
In the past 20 years I have owned 10 cars. Overall, the GMs and Chryslers were the most reliable of the bunch. The Ford vehicles I owned were a disaster. The VW I had was a waste of time and money.
Buying a car is purely luck of the draw from any manufacturer. You will either get a good example, or a problematic one.
impaled - the dealer you went to should have tested the battery as part of the original repair. A bad battery would have shown up at that time. You may want to work with the dealer and see if they would agree to split the cost of the new battery. Realistically, they should share in the cost of replacing it considering they failed to properly diagnose the problem and gave the car back to you with a bad part that immediately left you stranded. A new battery should not cost $200.00. The battery itself should be around $75, installation should take no more than 1/2 hour...maybe another $50 labor at the most.
I don't think the cars themselves are totally to blame. The dealers who cannot properly repair vehicles are also a factor.
I left the car at the dealership over the weekend. The big boss will be there tomorrow. Hopefully, the issue will be resolved quickly. Why do these things always happen right before a road trip?!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/93599926@N00/sets/72157602620999931/
The air bag light etc might be due to the bad switch. I seem to recall something odd that the signals are on the same circuit as the airbag sensor.
GM Parts
Anyway, went in this a.m. to talk to the service manager and he sold us a battery at a discounted price of $59.99 and didn't charge anything for installation/labor. Hopefully, all problems are solved
I found a used but good mirror, replaced it, and it works great. But, to have high beams, I must hold the dimmer switch up manually else they go out again. My DRL (daytime running lights) will work only after I rigged a 12 V
bulb over the ambient light sensor on top of the dash. It's located in the drivers side defroster grille. Naturally the box must be sealed so as not to hinder your night time vision, but with small airholes to disperse the heat from the bulb. I was told that the BCM was good if I heard the chimes for different events on the car, I do hear the chimes. Man, I need help. Thanking you in advance,
Pintail
Try (gently) wiggling that plug during the time when your problem arises. I had a very similar problem with my 2005 Impala.
My sensor that darkens the rear view mirror (from cars behind me) wouldn't work, nor would the reading lights in the mirror itself. To this day I have a small, hidden, plastic tie holding the wires to the mirror, snug against the arm for the mirror, it's now working fine.
Pintail
The turn signals not working could be a defective turn signal combination switch or a defective hazard button switch. If the turn signals start working once you push the hazard button, that would indicate a short in the Hazard switch. If you check one of the earlier postings, someone actually put a link showing how to replace the hazard switch.
Good luck!
I have a 2005 Impala and I could tell you how to replace the turn signal/dimmer switch on that car, only because I spent $16.00 on a manual from a auto parts store. Really helpful. You have to be careful in dis-arming the airbag, driver side and passenger side. After reading the manual I purchased, I wouldn't hesitate taking on the job myself. Mine is a "Haynes Repair Manual", spells it all out in there.
Good luck.
Turn the ignitin key off. Disarm the air bag by removing the SDM fuse from the fuseblock located at the left side of dash.
If you turn the key back on and the airbag light comes on you know you removed the correct fuse.
It is a tricky job to replace the combination switch and you have to fish some wires thru some tight spots. It took me a couple hours to do the job but I probably saved $300. dollars in labor by doing it myself.
Right now I have a tiny box on top of the dash by the drivers side defroster vent. I took the ambient light sensor out of it's socket, put it in that box with two 12 V bulbs (false daylight) just to get my DRL's to work. W/O that box, my lights will not come on at all. Plus, it must be out of "PARK" to have any lights. My high beams work as long as I hold the dimmer switch lever up. Grrrrrrrrrr
Boy, do I need help, thank you,
pintail4
pintail4
pintail4
Thanks so much!
James
I don't talk abusively to anyone on here. Please believe me.
Have a great day...........................................pintail4
pintail4@cpinternet.com
Here's instructions on how to fix it without removing the dashboard:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/93599926@N00/sets/72157602620999931/
The switch is a computer chip that is probably fried.
Mine cost $100 to have replaced.
I also had a problem with my blinker, but mine just was just faster than normal.
I only had to replace a bulb.
Good luck!!
Here are my symptoms:
When vehicle is recently turned off, interior and headlights flicker on for a short time, then off for a few seconds,, this repeats until about the time that the lights would normally turn off naturally or when I lock the doors keylessly. There is a clicking sound that comes from the passenger dash which clicks at the same frequency. I do not experience battery drain as some people.
When vehicle is keylessly unlocked the flickering previously mentioned begins again along with the clicking.
when car ignition is started, interior and exterior lights continue to flicker as above. The interior lights stop flickering about the time that the interior lights should normally turn off, headlights keep flickering until I manually turn them on by pulling the knob on the left of the steering wheel. For safety reasons, I now always turn the lights on manually. Often the climate control (AC/heat/fan) as well as the information center thingy above the rear view mirror, do not work.
The information center thingy usually turns on within a minute of having the car started (time varies), when it finally comes on the AC/heater starts working as well.
Also when the car is on, I get a service engine soon light. There are NO error codes reported from ODB2 readers. Occasionally I also get a HIGH BEAM OUT message (still no ODB2 code), however my highbeams work fine when I use them.
very infrequently (maybe 5 or so times in the last year) the turn signals stop working. I haven't yet tried enabling the hazard lights to see if that fixes it, because usually they start working within a minute of driving.
Since this started over a year ago, It seemed less frequent and only happened when the car was well warmed up or it was hot outside. It now is pretty consistent.
Any pointers are appreciated!
please send reply to becky.mcbeth@yahoo.com
The dealership charged me about $550 to replace/program a new BCM. It might be cheaper to purchase one somewhere else and bring it to them to program, and then install it yourself (not sure how hard that is since I didn't do that. I was mislead at the dealer to think it was $350 including installation, not so.)
I think all they need to program it is your VIN number and a key for that? The BCM looks like an old game cartridge for a NEO GEO game system. I kept my old one just in case the new one didn't work. (you have to ask for that)
After they installed the new BCM, electrical problems all went away. 2 days later, the car would not start and the battery was dead and would not jump.
One month before having the BCM replaced, I had the battery tested and I was told it was fine. 2 days after replacing BCM, I went to the same place that tested it before and they said it was bad, only putting out 10 volts. It was about 5 yrs old (7 yr battery) purchased from the dealer.
Got a new 7 yr battery ($100), things have been working great, except now I get an airbag light every once in a while. Plan on doing research on that next as it seems somewhat unrelated... at least I passed inspection before the airbag light started popping up.
I'm tempted, now that I have a new battery, to put in the old BCM and see if the symptoms went away... let me know how hard it is to replace if you go that rout!
(about $700 total)
I would have the dealer run a code scan on it to see if the new BCM is bad.
Another common problem with Impalas are defective "Passlock" sensors.
If you try to turn the key and nothing happens, than the Passlock sensor is defective. Good luck!! :confuse: