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Thanks,
kristie7915
Does this help? Google is a wonderful thing. You can find most of your answers to questions this way in my experience.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Does this price sound reasonable for two hours parts and labor.
Rotors would need to be replaced under two situations. You let the pads wear down to the metal and ground into the rotor (which you don't have because you are at 30%), or if the rotor got warped from excessive hard stopping and overheating the brakes. You'd feel the brakes pulsate while coming to a stop if that is the case.
Replacing only the front brake pads is a simple job. It's about a $20-30 dollar job, if you do it yourself.
The whole job does not seem reasonable for a vehicle with such low mileage.
However, it's usually not worth it since the cost of replacements are so reasonable, and it's soo much quicker to just put a replacement on.
So sounds like it you have warped the rotors, that you'll need rotors and pads. You shouldn't need calipers.
Batteries at best only last about three,(3), years. Yes it is possible for them to live a little longer, but I do not think that I would depend on a four year old battery on a cold winter's night. In your case, I would have the battery "load tested by the dealer"! Also have both the starting and the charging system tested for proper operation. An old battery might be "ok" in the warm weather, but not "ok" when the first cold hits the area. If you are going to replace the battery, ALWAYS replace the battery with the same "quality" or a "better quality battery" than came with the vehicle when it was "new". A cheap battery is exactly that, ---- "A CHEAP BATTERY"!
Best regards. ---- Dwayne :shades:
Q is, I only drive 3000 miles every six months. Manual isn't clear on vehicles with less than 15,000 per year.
Is the oil change governed by time passing or mileage, if you have low miles.
As a corollary, this Q can be extended to other recommendations in the manual.
Does the oil get worse by car just sitting in the garage, requiring a change every 6 months even though I barely put on 3000 at most ( no severe interval qualification.)
Car is is a 99 V6 with 56,500
There are a few things that are strictly mileage-based, such as the spark plug and air filter change intervals.
I own a 2007 V6 Toyota Camry that was purchased in January 2007. I tend to accumulate alot of mileage very quickly. This vehicle now has 10,000 + miles. To date it has had four (4) oil and filter changes. (One every 2,500 miles.) I don't care what the "owners manual" states about oil and filter changes, I change the oil and filter often! The reason is very simple, ---- "Oil and filters are cheap, ----engines are expensive"! In the past, Toyota engines had a problem with the production of "sludge"! Change the oil and filter often, and keep all the service receipts! --------- Best regards. --- Dwayne :shades:
Now day the oil and engine was so much better 7500 miles is nothing .
My mileage accumulation is lower now on this Camry, so I change every 6 months (about 4000 miles).
If rsetlur still has a '99 Camry going strong after this long, it's not going to develop sludge.
If I follow the above regimen and do what my book that came with the car says, is that OK? It seems most people agree that the dealer is just trying to make extra money. I reason that if it was critical maintanence that Toyota would have put it in the book, not a card at the dealership. Some may buy a Toyota and never go back to a dealer for service. How would they know what service to do? They would follow the book.
The only things extra that I recommend are draining and refilling the auto tranny fluid every 40 or 50K miles or so (not flushing it -- just drain and refill), plus changing out the brake fluid, say every 3 years and 40-50K miles.
Point of information! ---- The folowing vehicles had a major "engine sludge problem": ---- Audi 1997 - 2004, Chrysler 1998 - 2002, Dodge 1998 - 2002, Hyundai 1998 - 2204, Lexus 1997 - 2003, Toyota 1997 - 2003, Saab 1999 - 2003, VW 1997 -2004.
Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades:
I was involved in the heated Toyota sludge discussions back in 2000-02 on Edmunds, and it seemed the problem was limited in scope, mostly to those who stretched their oil change intervals, did a lot of short trip driving, and had their oil changed (supposedly) by "Iffy Lube" or "Joe's gas and go." A lot of the problems happened early on, within 20K miles or less.
I had a 1997 Camry with the 2.2 4-cylinder, and I had NO sludge problems with 5K mile oil changes (done myself), and the car was fine when I sold it in '04 with 111K miles.
And IMHO and no offense intended because it's your money and your decision, but I still think you're changing your oil way too often at 2500 miles, especially since I believe that works out to monthly or less in your case.
I think it is time for you to change timing belt at 92000 miles. It's about $50 for part and 2 hrs labor. They asked $230 that is little to high except replacing water pump and other belt(s) as well including in the price.
You could check condition of your timing belt by opening plastic cover for inspection.
Make sure that you check their works after installing new belts. It happened to me that the belt for water pump was so tight caused water pump bearing failure after 4 months later. After they changed water pump, then the air conditioning bearing making noise ...
Just thought I'd bring this topic up. I am contemplating having my timing belt done (camry 2001 4 cylinder 94,000 miles). But I fear the above happening. I had nothing but problems with a corolla I had after a timing belt change. In fact the harmonic balancer snapped months afterwards. It's almost like let the belt break on its own, as long as non-interference.
I'd recommend finding a competent shop. Check the tightness of your drive belts before you go in for the work, and then afterward. (You may as well put on new ones.) If they seem excessively tight after running the engine for about 5 minutes, have the shop re-adjust them.
There was some discussion in here that the 2001 4 cylinder camry has a timing chain. I went to an on line parts shop and the 2001 has a belt.
I checked the 2002 camrys and only the 4 cylinder engines had a chain the 6 cylinders had a belt.
Can not find a competent shop, even if the shop is competent they hire out their services to low wage people or people that don't care.
The only thing I can think of is going to the dealer and being very specific on telling the manager to check the torque on all the new belts himself. In fact I would like to see him check them (at least on the regular belts). But who knows if they would do that. I just hate having to put $250-$750 (250 for timing belt job 500 for all the other junk they want to do) into a properly running car only to get a components going bad because of improper torque. The shop never takes responsiblity.
That corolla that died on me after the timing belt has left a bad taste in my wallet for these places.
Thanks
Shane
Spark plugs are good for 120K miles, original pink Toyota coolant for 105K miles.
I'll admit to start that I'm pretty clueless about cars, other than that it's important to change the oil regularly.
I inherited a used 2000 Camry. The engine is 2.2 liters, 4 cylinders w/ electronic fuel injection.
I am the third owner of the car. (My parents are the second) When my family bought the car, it had 37,500 miles. Today it has almost 70,000 and I'm wondering about routine maintenance.
I have all the paperwork for any work done on the car since 2003 and it looks like basically, the repairs done have been minor things that broke (wipers, etc.) as well as
- oil changes
- tire alignment(3/06, 11/06)
-tire rotation (3/06)
- tire replacement (8/04)
brake pad replacement (1/05)
-strut replacement (11/06)
and then when the accelerator was sticking once (5/05) - cleaned throttle, changed radiator hoses (curved and upper?), coolant drain/refill, belts (inc. serpentine belt)
The car has been driven sparingly the last couple years, but I know it probably needs some routine maintenance. I have a huge list of things from my dealership's "maintenance guide," but I have no idea which things to do. All of them?
Also, I haven't done the scheduled maintenance at the other mileage intervals (I got the car in late 2005), so should I go back and do those?
Sorry, I know I'm clueless. I'd really appreciate some guidance. I get my work done at my local dealership, because Jiffy Lubes seem like a bad idea.
Thanks,
Peti
Also, though I've got the 105k coolant, it's sitting right at the low line. I live in a hot/humid climate. Should I be concerned?
Vehicle is 2004 3.3L V6 with 45k carefree miles.
My 2002 Sienna Scheduled Maintenace Guide says replace the coolant every 2 years or 30K miles.
Why such a big difference? Is the engine design different. The coolant is the same, isn't it(the pink stuff)?
Is 100K miles too long to wait to change the Camry coolant?
Both the Camry and the Sienna have pink/red looking coolant.
Could it be that they were just being conservative in 2002, and didn't yet have confidence to increase the coolant change duration?
I believe this coolant was a different formulation (not extended life).
Regarding the new coolant, I'm okay with 100K miles, but I personally wouldn't leave the stuff in for 10 years.
Is there any value to having the thermostat removed and the system flushed?
Is it worth the additional cost to have the dealer do a flush?
I bought my '03 Camry LE 4 cylinder at Carmax with 6000 miles and the maintenance guide was missing. I now have 74,000+ miles on the car.
When do change the timing belt?
Thanks,
CS
Repeat with plain water until the drained fluid is almost colorless.
One problem though might be obtaining full-strength Toyota coolant -- my recent experience is that it is sold premixed with 50% water. Because you can't get all the water out of the system, it will be hard to get it back to a 50/50 mix unless you can buy the full strength coolant.
I have heard some say that the flush solution can damage some parts of the cooling system. Is there any chance of that?
If there's not a known reason from something in the cooling system needing flush chemicals to break it down and get it out, I wouldn't put chemicals into the coolant volume. You indicated, I believe, that you can't drain it all out of your car and that means some chemical is going to be left unless you find a way to force water through the whole system to purge all the chemical.
I'd just refill with water. Run motor to mix. Drain. And repeat a couple times letting the motor cool some in between before refilling. Then put in coolant to specifications on the last fill. That would be my method for flushing.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Since I posted my question I've been told that there is a 90,000 mile timing belt change and that was from a Toyota dealer! What gives???
Thanks,
CS
The 2007 Camry has a timing chain that doesn't need to be changed.
What is the recommended mileage that the timing belt be changed at? I have a 2003 Camry with a 4 cylinder engine.
The V6 engines were carried over, and these kept their timing belts. Not until the 2007 model year was the V6 replaced, and this new one has a chain as stlpike states.
Do not use the heavy duty stuff which is for removing visible rust and scale.