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I have a 2001 Camry with 101000 mi that just had its Cat.Converter replaced by a independent dealer. Is it worth pursuing some relief from Toyota?
I believe under the emissions warranty the cat. is warranted for 10 yrs.
and/or 100000mi. Correct?
Thanks
I wouldn't bother w/ the insurance co. for such a small claim. IMO, you shouldn't have full coverage on a 10 years old Camry w/ 110K miles.
Bumpers are plastic and require flex paint. I had a jopper tell me just to paint mine without the flex. Not me, my new paint job is gonna be done right.
I would not take it to Macco for the reason they might not put the flex in the paint. Seriously if you get it painted there, they save cost by speed and material. It would look great until someone bumps the back bumper when parking in a crowded parking lot.
I'm painting my 92 bumper with original white. Cost for paint and the thinner mix is about$75 dollars then throw in the flex additive for another $30 of which you use about .50 cents worth. The rest sits on the shelf and eventually goes bad from age. But still worth the extra protection.
Also you have a flex primer Macco would probaly use the same primer they use for all the other bodywork repair, not the flex.
As an experiment I would go to Macco and get a estimate. Then ask what they mean by flex primer and flex paint additive, if they even bring it up. Ask to show you some in a can. It must say for bumpers, not the additive used to make a paint poly-urethane Their is a difference.
Then call a bumper repair specialist that comes to your door to fix your bumper for about $400 dollars no dents, just paint.
It could be leaking out slowly. Is the fluid full or empty? Then if full, the master cylinder failed. Of course someone could have filled it for you when getting service.
Kindly be advised that the Power Steering Pump producess VERY high pressure, (between 800 to 2000 pounds.) --- This causes VERY HIGH HEAT! --- The heat leads to fluid breakdown and fluid failure. --- The fluid should be "clear" not cloudy, and should NOT smell burnt and / or toasted.
As miles accumulate on the vehicle, microscopic particles of metal & rubber can buildup in the fluid. These particles can act like an abrasive and acelerate pump and gear wear, so as such the fluid should be changed.
Based on your "posting," your vehicle has 70,000 miles. I would have this service performed ASAP!
Best regards. --------- Dwayne :shades:
Also, is it important to get a "genuine Toyota" filter? Someone told me that the air filters you'll get at AutoZone, Pepboys, et al don't last as long, whereas a high quality one might cost $50+ but can last much longer. Is that true?
After all, cars still have throttle plates that open and close, so your intake air flow is restricted by your right foot anyway.
Now if you want to add a system for COOLER air, or ram air, that might have an effect, depending on how your stock system comes from the factory.
Modern cars leave very little on the table in terms of air filter design.
How ever recently it has developed a wheel shake when braking, which usually is due to warped rotors, but I noticed the other day at 30 mph I got a steering wheel shake w/o any braking over smooth road.. Car is covered by a certified maintainence policy expiring 7/31/09..So my take is tie rod ends, pitman arm, or idler arm..
Of course they will do every thing under the sun to sell a whole shopping list of goodies and services which the Toy dealers are famous for..The rotors may be warped but at a steady slow speed to find movement in the steering wheel points at steering component issues..
Any like experiences from owners I would appreciate your feedback..Never owned any foreign cars except 2 Porsches, and 41 Big3 cars..I find out looking this thread that Toys require alot of maintance operations, sounds like a waste of time and money. Over 100k miles one should do brakes, tires, and maybe an alignment. Lots of oil changes however this fluid changing of all fluid systems is a total waste., but then again they may not be built that good we are told..My normal annual mileage for some 40 yrs was around 50k, and if the car required the Toy schedule it was never bought..If it was not broken, why bother to spent money to keep the dealer in riches..My only service areas were suspension, brakes and tires, tire balance..
The std Toy strut is shot before 50k, except the SE models..
Couple hours later I get the call, rotors warped, rear brakes only 10% life left, new pads, alignment, and balance all wheels..====$800.00.. All steering components are good, struts are perfect, etc..I pick up the car couple hrs later and go 2 blks.. from the dealer off the beaten path to a place called Dave's Garage. I had talked with Dave after my Toy service rep had his pitch, and had found Dave's, garage as installer for "Tire Rack", so all will work out..New rotors on frt, new pads on rear, will have 4 new tires from "Tire Rack", balanced at the garage site, then take the car to Toyota dealer for alignment..Total cost will probably be in the area of $725 including new tires and the alignment at Toyota.. The Toy quote didn't include 4 tires or new rotors on front. Turning rotors with 77k is a waste of time..
It isn't my car but being retired one has time to shop a little. Didn't like the attitude of the Toy dealer service reps, so we will see what happens for the car owner will be gone for 3 wks, just got back from a 5 wk spree..
Most dealers are a rip, but 90% of the work on my cars are performed at the dealer, in fact I buy tires at the car dealer for they are then responsible for a perfect tire w/o vibration at all speeds up to top end..Brakes are a waste of money at the dealer..
The only Camry I would buy is the SE and with the so-so dealers I will pass.
Seems like these things should not be occuring yet w/ the milage. Any ideas?
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Share your vehicle reviews
What is your opinion on when/if power steering fluid should be replaced ?
Does the same concept apply for brake fluid ?
Brake fluid is not an oil and gradually collects moisture over time. It should be changed according to the intervals listed in your owner's manual. If there is no recommendation, 3 years or 50K miles is appropriate IMO.
Also, does this v6 camry have a chain or timing belt? When should it be changed, if at all?
thanks all help.
Does anyone have any input on the typical mileage where the 1VZ-FE 3.0L V6 engines require valve a adjustment?
Has anyone every had a valve adjustment performed on a 1VZ-FE engine? If so, at what mileage?
Has anyone ever experienced a burned valve on the 1VZ-FE engine? If so, at what mileage?
Thanks!
Quarkster
(It would be useful for you to specify if you have a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder engine; failures and fixes may be different for the two engines.)
First, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that the ECM and multiple fuel injectors would fail simultaneously. If you use good quality fuel, injectors should last at least 150K miles. EMC failures are extremely rare, unless the car was a hurricane salvage vehicle.
I would NOT trust this dealer's diagnosis, and especially the $3K repair estimate.
Camry's have a known issue with sticky Idle Air Control Valve (IAC valve) that causes stalling symptoms similar to what you describe. This is generally more frequent if you do lots of stop-and-go driving, or mostly short trips. The valve can be easily cleaned with a can of spray cleaner (like CRC brand Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner), and should operate correctly for at least 25-30K miles between cleanings. The dealer will NEVER clean a valve, they will always want to replace it at $200-$250 or more.
Here is a recommended list of things to do & check. If you can't perform these operations yourself, find a reputable Toyota independent repair shop, or try a different dealer:
1. Verify that the Idle Air Control Valve is functioning correctly. The most common symptom of an IAC problem is very low idle speed (500 RPM or less) immediately after a start (can be at cold start, or after a hot re-start). Problems with the IAC usually don't trigger the "check engine" light.
2. Replace the fuel filter;
3. Run several bottles of a quality fuel injector cleaner (Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus) through several consecutive tanks of fuel. This should remove any significant deposits from the fuel injectors.
4. Check the operation of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. Any defect in the EGR valve may also cause idle speed & stalling problems. ERG problems may or may not trigger the check engine light.
5. If it's a 4-cylinder, have a compression check done. Some of these engines develop a valve clearance problem (zero clearance) on one cylinder that can prevent the valve from closing completely, causing rough-running or stalling. This is easliy corrected via a valve adjustment.
6. If you are not doing so, switch to a "Tier One" gasoline. These are gasoline brands that have passed rigorous engine deposit testing by car manufacturers. Check on-line for the latest Tier One listings. Use whatever GRADE of gasoline is recommended in your owner's manual (regular 87 octane for almost all Camrys).
Let us know what you find, and what the "final fix" is.
Regards,
Quarkster
Quarkster
The Camry described in post #573 is a 1998 model, not a 2000. I was somehow thinking of my 2000 4-Runner when writing about the Camry. Actual mileage on the Camry is now 177,000 miles.
Quarkster
I am looking to get a good price on struts for my Solara 99 V6. Where on the internet is the best place to get toyota parts?
Thanks.
tia,
Chris
I've gone years, completely wearing out tires, without ever having to get them rebalanced. I usually just rotate somewhere between 7500 and 10K miles.
Thanks,
Chris