Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions

grampy1 · May 2009

Anyone have any luck with Toyota doing a good Will repair?

I have a 2001 Camry with 101000 mi that just had its Cat.Converter replaced by a independent dealer. Is it worth pursuing some relief from Toyota?
I believe under the emissions warranty the cat. is warranted for 10 yrs.
and/or 100000mi. Correct?

Thanks

kiawah · May 2009

slim to none, if they didn't put in a Toyota Cat, and it wasn't a Toyota dealer who diagnosed the need and did the labor.

cellotrack · May 2009

Hi, I have a pearl white 1999 Toyota Solara SLEV6 with 110,000 miles. Recently, while I was parked at the mall parking lot, I realized someone rear-ended my rear bumper while I was out shopping and not the car. I have full insurance coverage but a $500 deductible. There is just some paint that is chipping off and cracking. The bumper is not dented in or damaged otherwise. I was thinking I should report to the insurance carrier as a hit and run but also thought about taking it to MAACO to get it repainted for about $300 since my deductible alone is $500. I am worried the paint will continue to chip off or the bumper might rust. Any suggestions or recommendations?

gooddeal2 · May 2009

It's a 10 years old car, so, cracking paint can be normal. I just don't think it's the result of someone rear-ended your car. The bumper is plastic, thus no rust. Also, re-paint the bumper alone on a 10 years old car might look funny.

I wouldn't bother w/ the insurance co. for such a small claim. IMO, you shouldn't have full coverage on a 10 years old Camry w/ 110K miles.

pascooke · May 2009

I have a 2006 Camry LE 4 cyl with 54K and the brake pedal is going to the floor. Is it possible that the master cylinder needs to be replaced already? Your advice is appreciated. pascooke@gmail.com

kiawah · May 2009

Did you try bleeding the hydraulic system to get air out of the brake lines?

rearwheeldrive · May 2009

Bumper cracked paint.

Bumpers are plastic and require flex paint. I had a jopper tell me just to paint mine without the flex. Not me, my new paint job is gonna be done right.

I would not take it to Macco for the reason they might not put the flex in the paint. Seriously if you get it painted there, they save cost by speed and material. It would look great until someone bumps the back bumper when parking in a crowded parking lot.

I'm painting my 92 bumper with original white. Cost for paint and the thinner mix is about$75 dollars then throw in the flex additive for another $30 of which you use about .50 cents worth. The rest sits on the shelf and eventually goes bad from age. But still worth the extra protection.

Also you have a flex primer Macco would probaly use the same primer they use for all the other bodywork repair, not the flex.

As an experiment I would go to Macco and get a estimate. Then ask what they mean by flex primer and flex paint additive, if they even bring it up. Ask to show you some in a can. It must say for bumpers, not the additive used to make a paint poly-urethane Their is a difference.

Then call a bumper repair specialist that comes to your door to fix your bumper for about $400 dollars no dents, just paint.

rearwheeldrive · May 2009

Lose fluid

It could be leaking out slowly. Is the fluid full or empty? Then if full, the master cylinder failed. Of course someone could have filled it for you when getting service.

djm2 · May 2009

Hi daises2daises:

Kindly be advised that the Power Steering Pump producess VERY high pressure, (between 800 to 2000 pounds.) --- This causes VERY HIGH HEAT! --- The heat leads to fluid breakdown and fluid failure. --- The fluid should be "clear" not cloudy, and should NOT smell burnt and / or toasted.

As miles accumulate on the vehicle, microscopic particles of metal & rubber can buildup in the fluid. These particles can act like an abrasive and acelerate pump and gear wear, so as such the fluid should be changed.

Based on your "posting," your vehicle has 70,000 miles. I would have this service performed ASAP!

Best regards. --------- Dwayne :shades:

dlrev · July 2009

I just bought a used 07 Camry LE and the engine air filter needs to be replaced. Any advice on the best site(s) online to get a quality one for a good price?

Also, is it important to get a "genuine Toyota" filter? Someone told me that the air filters you'll get at AutoZone, Pepboys, et al don't last as long, whereas a high quality one might cost $50+ but can last much longer. Is that true?

kiawah · July 2009

Just get a local filter at autoparts store. Shipping and handling charges alone will probably double the cost, compared to locally bought.

mcdawgg · July 2009

A genuine OEM Toyota filter is around $21.

dlrev · July 2009

where can I purchase a genuine OEM Toyota filter? I am a car novice so please don't think I'm being sarcastic.

kiawah · July 2009

go to any Toyota dealer, walk over to the parts counter, tell them what you want, give them your credit card.

dlrev · July 2009

Anyone use a K&N air filter? I was looking at those but they are around $50. As I understand it you can wash and reuse them basically for the life of the car. Is it worthwhile?

Mr_Shiftright · July 2009

It's my opinion that a simple, washable drop-in filter, with no additions to the routing of the stock air intake system, is just a waste of money, and possibly detrimental to your car if over-oiled. Taken all by themselves, I've never seen a credible test that shows that you gain anything but noise from these types of filters.

After all, cars still have throttle plates that open and close, so your intake air flow is restricted by your right foot anyway.

Now if you want to add a system for COOLER air, or ram air, that might have an effect, depending on how your stock system comes from the factory.

Modern cars leave very little on the table in terms of air filter design.

dlrev · July 2009

A bit confused by your reply. So you're saying you feel the K&N air filter is NOT worth it, right?

Mr_Shiftright · July 2009

Not in and by itself, no. It's not worth the money or the trouble. In conjunction with intake, fuel injection and exhaust modifications, it may be of some help.

motorcity6 · July 2009

Not my car, but I do take it to the dealer for oil changes the last couple of years. Car runs good and has accumulated only 14,500 in the last 37 mos..Total mileage is 77,150, and I am not a fan of Toys..

How ever recently it has developed a wheel shake when braking, which usually is due to warped rotors, but I noticed the other day at 30 mph I got a steering wheel shake w/o any braking over smooth road.. Car is covered by a certified maintainence policy expiring 7/31/09..So my take is tie rod ends, pitman arm, or idler arm..

Of course they will do every thing under the sun to sell a whole shopping list of goodies and services which the Toy dealers are famous for..The rotors may be warped but at a steady slow speed to find movement in the steering wheel points at steering component issues..

Any like experiences from owners I would appreciate your feedback..Never owned any foreign cars except 2 Porsches, and 41 Big3 cars..I find out looking this thread that Toys require alot of maintance operations, sounds like a waste of time and money. Over 100k miles one should do brakes, tires, and maybe an alignment. Lots of oil changes however this fluid changing of all fluid systems is a total waste., but then again they may not be built that good we are told..My normal annual mileage for some 40 yrs was around 50k, and if the car required the Toy schedule it was never bought..If it was not broken, why bother to spent money to keep the dealer in riches..My only service areas were suspension, brakes and tires, tire balance..

The std Toy strut is shot before 50k, except the SE models..

kiawah · July 2009

Or may have a bad strut/shock.

motorcity6 · July 2009

The service rep assigned to my case, who had never looked at car tried to sell me all new tires, right now.. I left the car with them and when they get their full list of goodies completed, call me..

Couple hours later I get the call, rotors warped, rear brakes only 10% life left, new pads, alignment, and balance all wheels..====$800.00.. All steering components are good, struts are perfect, etc..I pick up the car couple hrs later and go 2 blks.. from the dealer off the beaten path to a place called Dave's Garage. I had talked with Dave after my Toy service rep had his pitch, and had found Dave's, garage as installer for "Tire Rack", so all will work out..New rotors on frt, new pads on rear, will have 4 new tires from "Tire Rack", balanced at the garage site, then take the car to Toyota dealer for alignment..Total cost will probably be in the area of $725 including new tires and the alignment at Toyota.. The Toy quote didn't include 4 tires or new rotors on front. Turning rotors with 77k is a waste of time..

It isn't my car but being retired one has time to shop a little. Didn't like the attitude of the Toy dealer service reps, so we will see what happens for the car owner will be gone for 3 wks, just got back from a 5 wk spree..

Most dealers are a rip, but 90% of the work on my cars are performed at the dealer, in fact I buy tires at the car dealer for they are then responsible for a perfect tire w/o vibration at all speeds up to top end..Brakes are a waste of money at the dealer..

The only Camry I would buy is the SE and with the so-so dealers I will pass.

blkipeaz · July 2009

I have a 2007 Camry w/ 39000 miles, had rear roters/pads replaced at about 32000 miles, now the car shakes when braking, have been told front roters warped.
Seems like these things should not be occuring yet w/ the milage. Any ideas?

kiawah · July 2009

It depends as to whether you have an aggressive driving / braking style. I have more miles that than, and braking is still perfect and smooth. My teenage daughter is primary driver who is not aggressive at all.

dallas12 · July 2009

wanted to know what would be the cost to change all belts basically , timing, drive belts, Power steering, AC etc with water pump and seals. One of the toyota dealer in Dallas has given me a quote for $750. Is that fine or too high? THis is for a camry 99 model 4 cyl.

dallas12 · July 2009

Got a quote from toyota dealer for $675.

210delray · July 2009

Try an independent shop (but get recommendations first from friends, relatives, or co-workers).

Kirstie_H · August 2009

If you own a 2006  2010 Toyota Camry and live in the Los Angeles area, please contact ctalati@edmunds.com by August 12 if youre interested in being contacted for more information on your vehicle ownership experience.

jmgar · August 2009

The lube places try to sell this routinely at 30,000 miles. My garage mechanic who is very competent, written books on repair of newer cars and says he has worked on standards committees on these items says this is a bunch of hooey.

What is your opinion on when/if power steering fluid should be replaced ?

Does the same concept apply for brake fluid ?

210delray · August 2009

I've never changed the power steering fluid on the cars that I have owned. Still, it's probably not a bad idea to change it at 100K miles or so, but not use the "flush" method. Just use an old turkey baster (clean of course) and suction the fluid out of the reservoir. Refill with new fluid (see your owner's manual for the required specs). Drive the car for a mile or so, turning the steering wheel through its full range of motion. Repeat with the turkey baster. Do this a few more times, and you'll have changed nearly all of the fluid in the system. The old fluid can be recycled with motor oil.

Brake fluid is not an oil and gradually collects moisture over time. It should be changed according to the intervals listed in your owner's manual. If there is no recommendation, 3 years or 50K miles is appropriate IMO.

ronaries10 · August 2009

My relative has a 2002 v6 Camry low miles, 45000, approx, and is looking to have car serviced - more for time passed than mileage accrued. Is there any Central Seattle are dealer or service shop (Niasa) which some can recommend? Close to downtown Seattle or Capital Hill would be a plus!

Also, does this v6 camry have a chain or timing belt? When should it be changed, if at all?

thanks all help.

210delray · August 2009

I can't help you on the Seattle question since I live in Virginia, but the V6 of that model year has a timing belt. It's good for at least 90K miles, maybe more (it's spelled out in the maintenance manual that came with the owner's manual packet).

bma3 · August 2009

My 01 Camry with 73,000 miles stalls at lights/stop signs. Dealer tells me that the ECM and four fuel injectors need replacing to tune of $3000. Any advice?

210delray · August 2009

Get a second opinion from a reputable independent shop. Ask for recommendations from friends, relatives, or co-workers.

kiawah · August 2009

Unlikely that all of those would fail at the same time.

quarkster · August 2009

Our 2000 Camry LE V6 (Japan-made) now has over 170K miles on it, and is still running flawlessly, consistently delivering between 25-28 MPG. The engine has never had the valve clearance adjusted (solid bucket tappets, adjusted by shim plates). The engine idles very smoothly, and there is no significant valve noise. However, I'm concerned about the need for a valve adjustment, and the possibility of inadequate valve clearance eventually causing a burned valve. It's almost inconceivable (to me, at least) that a non-hydraulic tappet engine could run for 170K+ miles without any significant wear in the valve train that would require valve adjustment.

Does anyone have any input on the typical mileage where the 1VZ-FE 3.0L V6 engines require valve a adjustment?

Has anyone every had a valve adjustment performed on a 1VZ-FE engine? If so, at what mileage?

Has anyone ever experienced a burned valve on the 1VZ-FE engine? If so, at what mileage?

Thanks!
Quarkster

quarkster · August 2009

bma3 -

(It would be useful for you to specify if you have a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder engine; failures and fixes may be different for the two engines.)

First, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that the ECM and multiple fuel injectors would fail simultaneously. If you use good quality fuel, injectors should last at least 150K miles. EMC failures are extremely rare, unless the car was a hurricane salvage vehicle.
I would NOT trust this dealer's diagnosis, and especially the $3K repair estimate.

Camry's have a known issue with sticky Idle Air Control Valve (IAC valve) that causes stalling symptoms similar to what you describe. This is generally more frequent if you do lots of stop-and-go driving, or mostly short trips. The valve can be easily cleaned with a can of spray cleaner (like CRC brand Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner), and should operate correctly for at least 25-30K miles between cleanings. The dealer will NEVER clean a valve, they will always want to replace it at $200-$250 or more.

Here is a recommended list of things to do & check. If you can't perform these operations yourself, find a reputable Toyota independent repair shop, or try a different dealer:

1. Verify that the Idle Air Control Valve is functioning correctly. The most common symptom of an IAC problem is very low idle speed (500 RPM or less) immediately after a start (can be at cold start, or after a hot re-start). Problems with the IAC usually don't trigger the "check engine" light.
2. Replace the fuel filter;
3. Run several bottles of a quality fuel injector cleaner (Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus) through several consecutive tanks of fuel. This should remove any significant deposits from the fuel injectors.
4. Check the operation of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. Any defect in the EGR valve may also cause idle speed & stalling problems. ERG problems may or may not trigger the check engine light.
5. If it's a 4-cylinder, have a compression check done. Some of these engines develop a valve clearance problem (zero clearance) on one cylinder that can prevent the valve from closing completely, causing rough-running or stalling. This is easliy corrected via a valve adjustment.
6. If you are not doing so, switch to a "Tier One" gasoline. These are gasoline brands that have passed rigorous engine deposit testing by car manufacturers. Check on-line for the latest Tier One listings. Use whatever GRADE of gasoline is recommended in your owner's manual (regular 87 octane for almost all Camrys).

Let us know what you find, and what the "final fix" is.

Regards,
Quarkster

quarkster · August 2009

It really depends on your maintenance philosophy, and how long you intend to keep the car. The REAL reason to change power steering fluid is to extend the life of the $$$ expensive and difficult to replace power steering rack, which is what the power steering fluid actually "powers". As far as I know, older Mercedes Benz were the only vehicles to use filters in the power steering systems, so in other vehicles (Toyotas included) all the wear debris from the PS pump and the steering rack gradually accumulate in the fluid and circulate endlessly whenever the engine is running. Changing the fluid at 30k miles may be slightly overkill, but every 50K miles is reasonable. It's so easy to do, and so inexpensive, that it's really cheap insurance to protect a $3,000+ steering rack & pump system. A well-maintained and conservatively-driven Toyota Camry should be capable of 250-300K miles without MAJOR repairs to the powertrain, so a little low-cost maintenance of the power steering system would seem to be reasonable investment.

Quarkster

quarkster · August 2009

Oops ....

The Camry described in post #573 is a 1998 model, not a 2000. I was somehow thinking of my 2000 4-Runner when writing about the Camry. Actual mileage on the Camry is now 177,000 miles.

Quarkster

tasay · August 2009

Hi All,
I am looking to get a good price on struts for my Solara 99 V6. Where on the internet is the best place to get toyota parts?

Thanks.

crazedcommuter · September 2009

My 2008 4 cyl. Solara states that 5W 20 or 0W 20 should be used, however some of my neighbors stated that the Toyota dealers have put 5W 30 and 10W 30 in thier engines when taken in for service. Will this cause engine issues?

kiawah · September 2009

Not an oil expert, but I'd suspect they'd have slightly more internal oil resistance in the engine so that it wouldn't get as good gas mileage. But it's probably very small.

crazedcommuter · September 2009

Is 5w 30 a viable alternative to 5w 20? I've read articles that stated the 5w 20 was created to be thinner and slicker to help the factories achieve better total MPG across their fleets. I don't see how using 5w 30 in a 5w 20 spec will cause damage if the dealers are using it in that very situation.

mcdawgg · September 2009

If the dealers did it, then it won't be a problem if something happens to the engine during the warranty period (5 year, 60k miles). However, if anyone else did this, then Toyota could deny the warranty and you'd have to fight with them.

210delray · September 2009

Agree totally. Use the oil recommended by Toyota, not by dealers too lazy to stock the proper oil viscosities.

chris789 · September 2009

I was going to have someone rotate my tires on my 2010 camry and wondered if the front tires will need to be balanced? if so then will they need to be re-balanced at every rotation?

tia,
Chris

kiawah · September 2009

Only if you have vibrations, which if a tire is out of balance will usually start vibrating about 55 mph.

I've gone years, completely wearing out tires, without ever having to get them rebalanced. I usually just rotate somewhere between 7500 and 10K miles.

mcdawgg · September 2009

Yes, I agree completely.

metalibrarian · September 2009

2004 Camry, four cylinders. The plastic cover over the engine--how do you get it off? There are four fasteners of two different types. The front two are nuts and unscrew. But the rear two? What are they? I tried to pop them off by pulling up on the cover but I was afraid I'd break the thing.

chris789 · September 2009

I just got a 2010 Camry and wanted to know if in order to maintain the warranty if I need to change the oil every 5,000 miles or if using synthetic I can go longer.

Thanks,
Chris

mcdawgg · September 2009

You must do as the owner's manual says - every 5,000 miles or I think 6 months, whichever comes first. The 2010 owner's manual also says you must use 0w20 (which is only available in synthetic).

Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions

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