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Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions

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    chris789chris789 Member Posts: 37
    Toyota wants me to change my oil every 5,000 miles but I just read the specs for the Honda CRV and theres is every 10,000 miles. This is using non-synthetic. How come Hondas can go longer between oil changes then toyota.

    Chris
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    chris789chris789 Member Posts: 37
    Does anyone know if there is a website that gives a break down of the components of genuine toyota motor oil, I'm interested in seeing it for 0W20 that goes in my camry.

    Thanks,
    Chris
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    bigtoekneebigtoeknee Member Posts: 1
    Toyota recommend 6months/5K miles for all their Vehicles because they were afraid of the sludge problem in the past. Toyota Cars in Japan get 10K intervals too.

    I heard recently that Toyota will up the interval for 2010 US Models to 10K. But make sure you get the notification from the Toyota dealer before you change to the 10K interval.
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    mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    "Toyota recommend 6months/5K miles for all their Vehicles because they were afraid of the sludge problem in the past. Toyota Cars in Japan get 10K intervals too. "

    If Toyota in Japan gets the 10K intervals, do you think that's because of some people in the US not paying attention to oil change intervals, which can cause sludge in any car?

    Very interesting, as the 2010 Camry requires 6 month/5K AND synthetic. I guess if some of those type of people ignored the maintenance schedule, the engine would be more forgiving because it's using synthetic.
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    metalibrarianmetalibrarian Member Posts: 29
    In response to discussions on lengthening the oil change interval to 10K miles...

    If you've ever changed the oil and filter yourself and you've seen the dark black dirty color of the old oil and you've felt the weight of the sludge in the old filter (compared to the lightness of the new filter) after just 3 or 4 thousand miles, you'll think that a 5 thousand mile interval is stretching it.

    Oil does several things in a car engine: it lubricates, it cools, and it cleans. It cleans by picking up tiny foreign particles and carrying them to the filter. If it can't leave them in the filter, either because they are too small or because the filter is full up, then it just carries them along indefinitely. That's dirty oil. And the better it cleans, the more dirt it carries and the less well it cools and lubricates.

    It would seem that no matter how good the oil, synthentic or angelic,if you go to a 10k mile interval for changing it, you're gonna get 3K of new, pure lurication and cooling, 3K of increasingly dirty stuff, and then 4K of sheer filthy, ill-functioning, awful stuff slipsliding around inside your engine. And for what? You.ve saved, or rather put off spending, 30 bucks (half that if you DIY). And your car is worth 10 or 20 or 30 thousand dollars. Wow. No proportion there.

    The single, most important, cheapest thing you can do to a Toyota to make it last 250K miles or more is to change the fluids at decent intervals. Oil at 4K or 5K at most, transmission and power steering fluid every 50K, coolant at a hundred.

    Besides, don't you just feel better about your engine after you put clean oil in it? I always celebrate the occasion with a beer. Two if I DIYed it.

    I once read an article in Popular Mechanics on hows they keep cabs going in New York 24/7 for hundreds of thousands of miles--they change the oil every 3K. O:kay, that was 40 years ago and oil has improve. ..So 4K or 5K.

    But not 10K
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    mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    That's how I feel. I've always changed my own, every 4k or 4 months, whichever comes first. It is good, cheap insurance. The only thing I am not liking is putting synthetic in the 2010, due to the higher cost.
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    bassman45bassman45 Member Posts: 3
    I know this sound really stupid, bit where are the plugs? I need to change plugs and wires. Also heard to use oem wires. Is this true.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It might be a lot easier to take it somewhere. A mechanic would also know what to be looking for when taking the old parts off, so can be on the lookout to spot other trouble before it turns into a problem.

    You don't want to end up with a vehicle that won't run, because the wires aren't on correctly, the plug isn't gapped correctly, or you cross threaded (or stripped) the plug in the head.

    You don't say which engine you have, so don't know whether you have one head or two.
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    jaymac1jaymac1 Member Posts: 1
    i have been having problems with my 99 solara (4cyl) stalling from time to time,usually after it's been sitting still for a few hours.Took it to a dealer & they say it needs an IAC valve ($482 inst) BUT they also found loose drive belt(s) & recommended new valve cover gasket & end plug (leaking).Now I'm wondering if the stalling problem is really due to the loose belt(s) and maybe also the plug possibly being fouled due to oil leak.This can get expensive in a hurry& I don't want to spend $482 if I don't have to.any suggestions.----car just hit 100k mi.Thanks in advance. jaymac1
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    i have a 1993 camry le 2.2 liters. how much oil do i need for an oil change? and what brand of oil and oil filter? i do have the manual, but it doesn't say how much oil i need. thank you very much.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't have your manual, but most manuals talk about oil in two places. One where they talk about it in a maintenance section, where they give you the designation (like 5w20, 10w30, etc). The second place is back in a 'capacities' chart, where they tell you all the fluid capacities. I would suspect it is somewhere around 4 quarts, and a little more with a oil filter change. Buy 6 quarts, and I'm sure you'll have enough.

    If you really can't find it in the manual, then use the oil stick to help guide you. Put in 3 quarts, and then check the dipstick to see how far it is down. Keep putting in oil, 1/2 quart at a time until you get it up in range, then start the vehicle so the oil can be pumped around and fill the new oil filter up. Stop the engine, let the oil settle, and look at the dip stick again. Top the oil off.

    Any good quality oil will do, of the correct weight (whatever that engine calls for ie. 10w30, 5w20, ???).
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    awn7eawn7e Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2010 Camry (4 cylinder) and since Toyota announced the new "rules" to change oil and filter every 10,000 miles I plan to do it less frequently. However, the minute my car hit 5,000 miles the "Maintenance Required" light came on.

    1. How do I turn this off?
    2. Is there a way I can re-set this so that it comes on every 10,000 miles instead of every 5,000?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited May 2010
    Read the manual.
    Going from memory..... with the engine running, push the odometer to the trip B setting, then turn the engine off. Next while depressing and holding the odometer reset in, turn the key to the on position but do not start. You'll see the bars count down 54321, and then it's reset.

    Something like that. Going from memory and don't have my system handy, but the manual documents exactly how to reset it.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    right on thanks i just changed my oil :].

    sorry to jump to subject to subject... .

    its about my catalytic converter (front). i dont have one, instead i have a regular straight piping that was welded by a private mechanic. my original cat. converter was damaged (had a hole?) and made noises when i accelerated. at that time i didnt know that was a bad idea, its a bad idea right? my friends are telling me it wont pass a smog test. but when the mechanic was done welding, their were no noises, car ran smooth than ever. my next smog test is about to come and i dont to fail it. what should i do? thank you.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Don't know what state (and many times county specific) you are in, don't know what the smog laws are in your state, or how they check your vehicle. In a number of states I've lived in, they would inspect for any modifications to the original equipment.

    (I'm surprised a mechanic welded that in for you.

    If it was my vehicle, I wouldn't do anything until they flunked me (or not). If they flunk it, they'll probably give you some amount of time to get it fixed (as per the laws). You can do planning now (and save your money up), waiting for them to flunk you. Then you can decide whether you are going to throw additional money at the vehicle, given it's high age and mileage.............or get another vehicle. If they don't flunk you, you're good to go.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    would you happen to know where exactly where is the front cat. located? my father said it wasnt the cat. is the front cat. located in the middle of the car or right below the engine? b/c right below the engine is where the straigh piping was installed.
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    yowusuyowusu Member Posts: 3
    edited June 2010
    Can anyone help me with an owners manual for toyota camry 2010.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    what kind of help?
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    210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Front cat is located right below the engine.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    ooh man that im screwed. that dumb mechanic. he can get in trouble for doing that i think. would it be illegal if i sold it like this? as is?
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    210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    If your state or area has emission tests, then it almost certainly would be illegal to sell in that condition.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, you can't sell it like that without risking trouble for yourself. Removing a cat is a FEDERAL offense and if your buyer found out (which he probably will) you're up the creek and would no doubt have to take the car back at the very least.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Just pay to have one put back on, if you have to.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    yeah i looked around. cant seem to find one for my car and that is California Compliant. you know where i can find one for a good price?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well personally, as I suggested before, I wouldn't make any repairs until you know for sure that it will fail inspection. I don't know the inspection laws in CA, but some states relax the emissions for vehicles as old as yours.
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    dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    You can register your car at www.toyotaownersonline.com. It shows the manuals for your car. You can also track maintenance and repair work, even if you do the work yourself.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    look what i found: http://www.truckchamp.com/products/California-Catalytic-Converters-Magnaflow-Uni- versal-Part-Number-37304.html/refer=true#

    what do you guys think about this cat.? hopefully that darn mechanic would weld this on for me for free since what he did.

    yeah true i dont really want to make any major repairs to this car anymore. that is why im wondering if i would get in any kind of trouble if i sold it "as-is".
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I suppose you could sell it "for offroad use only", something like that, or sell it "parts car only". That should get you off the legal hook.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    my oil pan is leaking oil. i noticed the nut on the pan was dripping oil. what needs to be replaced? and i just got an oil change a few days ago.
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    210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    If you're lucky, it's just loose. You can try to tighten it yourself, or take it back to the oil change place. If the threads are stripped, the repair should be on their dime.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably a new washer will do it, or you could try to snug it up a bit more. On some newer cars, they recommend a new plug each time. I'd certainly take it back to them.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited June 2010
    You changed your own oil on this right, for the first time?

    Assuming it wasn't dripping with oil prior to you changing it, then most likely one of a couple things are wrong:
    - you didn't tighten up the oil filter enough, and it's leaking oil under pressure, or
    - you tightened up the filter too much and squished the gasket out, or
    - you didn't make sure the old oil filter gasket came off with the old oil filter, and installing the new oil filter and gasket has squished out the old, or
    - you didn't tighten the pan drain plug, or
    - you stripped the pan drain plug by tightening too much.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    no i didnt do it myself. i got it done at those Castrol oil change places. and i did try tightening it. it did need a little tightening, but i didnt over-tighten the nut. and then the next day it was still leaking. so what now? can it be the mechanics fault? or should i get a new drain plug?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited June 2010
    Take it back where you had the oil change, and tell them it's leaking.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, tell them you want a new "crush washer" installed.....NOT some goop!! If you see them reaching for goopy sealant, lunge across the room and knock it out of their hands, please. :P
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    i went back. i went down to the lower level and he showed me the leak. when i went down there their was already this tanish looking gooey stuff not sure what it was exactly. well anyways he said i need a new oil pan and the gasket. also he said my "remain seals" need to replace and my "transmission seal"? but he said mainly i should work on the oil pain. he also said its pretty normal with all the leaks i got due to the age of my car :[ hehe. he was cool enough to replace the drain plug and a fatter gasket on the plug and top off the oil for free. i am trying to sell me car, i dont want put any more money into this car. hopefully the new plug will hold up, since i drive to work.
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    crazedcommutercrazedcommuter Member Posts: 281
    I changed oil today with Motorcraft 5w30 Synthetic Blend and a Purolator Pure One filter. I've been using the Motorcraft oil on both the Solara and my 05 XB for about a year with good MPG and results. I got the 5 quart bottle at Walmart for $11.99 on sale and the Purolator filter for 5.89 at Advance Auto. This $18 oil change is the best bargain out there.
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    crazedcommutercrazedcommuter Member Posts: 281
    edited June 2010
    Does anybody have recommendations for replacement tires for the Solara? My 215 60 16 MMXV Michelins are getting close to the wear bars at 28k miles. Has anyone had good experiences with replacements?
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    michaelscaimichaelscai Member Posts: 75
    just bought a new 2010 camry, pretty happy with it and getting 30+ average MPG for 2.5L, automatic, amazing:

    two questions

    1) the 'handle' inside the door seem to be made of two separate piece of material, and there is a gap between them, so if I hold the handle tight it feels like it pinches or squeezes my hand or finger, this is really annoying to me. I look at all four doors, and the 'handle' all seem to have a small gap.. does you camry do that???

    2) when is a good time to do first oil change, should I wait till 5000 miles or is it better earlier during break in of the vehicle?
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    210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    For 1), all 2007and later Camrys have that issue to some degree.

    For 2) Keep the oil in for 5K miles, and I think with the synthetic oil Toyota now requires for '10 and later 4-cylinder models, you can actually go one year or 10K miles, whichever comes first, between future oil changes.
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    michaelscaimichaelscai Member Posts: 75
    thanks for the clarification, The interior fit and finish has definitely gone down. For toyota to have done such a sloppy job on the door 'handle' on their flagship model is a shame to say the least.

    mechanically i have no complaints, the engine is strong and smooth and car drives like a luxury car, but Toyota could have done a much better job not cutting corners here and there in the cabin. Another thing I don't like like some people are saying the seats are too thin, even my 2000 solara has a a more thickly padded seat.
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    michaelscaimichaelscai Member Posts: 75
    my new camry pulls to the right a little bit, so I had the dealer done an alignment on it. now it seem to pull to the left just a tiny bit.

    is it common for a new car to need alignment?

    also, seems the steering wheel feels a bit light and vague, instead of centered on the road it feels like it likes to wander if there is slight uneveness on the road, and constantly needs some minor adjustment. do I need to take it back for another alignment or is this just how camry drives?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    take it back for alignment.
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    kingfans1kingfans1 Member Posts: 137
    your camry 2.5l can get up to 37 mpg if you do 95% highway, and use cruise control.

    for the oil changed, I will follow the owner manual and change at the dealer..
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    michaelscaimichaelscai Member Posts: 75
    I noticed an issue with the power seat tilting, if I tilt the front seat, it works as expected, the front seat goes up and the back seat stays as is.

    However, if I try to tilt the back part of the seat up, the front part of the seat moves up with it, almost like I'm just ajusting the seat height??

    Does you camry do this?? I can't seem to adjust the seat to a comfortable position, my 2000 Toyota Solara doesn't have this issue and has more thick padding for the seats - I agree with some people the newer camry seat is not comfortable for long trips..
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    michaelscaimichaelscai Member Posts: 75
    Update on my alignment issue..

    Dealer notes indicates it pulls left or right depending on which side the tire/wheels are on, does that mean the tires are defective? Also is T0.7 too much for the TOE adjustment?


    Dealer Notes:
    "pulls to the right preliminary check & Road test, pulls to the right, T0.6, switch front tire/wheel & road test, pulls left to T0.5, reverse the front one side tire T0.7, steering wheel off center, check front wheel alignment T1.2, adjust front wheel alignment, adjust FT TOE T0.7"
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What is the brand and model of those tires?
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    jammikejammike Member Posts: 38
    I have 38500 miles on my 2005 camry. Dealer is recommending Front and Rear Brake Job. That includes brake pads,resurface the rotors, shims etc. Dealer is asking $240 for Front and $240 for Rear Brake job. Is that a fair price ?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Hmm.

    Just a reference point. Last month I just checked my brakes on my 2007LE, daughter who is primary driver said she heard a squeak. The rear pads were worn down (to the warning sensor), fronts were fine had lots of pad left on them. The rear pads were $23 for the rear set, and $5 for a quart of brake fluid (I flushed and replaced all the fluid in the system). That's $30 in parts, and I would guess 1.5 - 2.0 hours of my time including the time to get the parts from autoparts store. Rotors were fine, didn't need to take them off.

    I don't know the labor or parts rates in your area of the country.

    If your vehicle really does need the rotors cut and new brake pads on all fours, then I guess that's probably a reasonable price. Most places have the package deal which pretty much is an easy way of giving you an estimate, whether you actually need all of that or not. Also makes sure you have a complete job, and won't have to come back for any re-do.

    Just giving you a DIY reference point (not counting the jacks and tools already had).

    But of course while I had the tires off, checked everything else over, scrubbed/washed the rims and tires real good of brake dust, and rotated the tires putting them back on. So got a couple other things done while doing the brake job.
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