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I finally ended up using a better dealer and a coupon and paid $180 for Front Brakes and resurfacing the rotors and same for the Rear brake service with resurfacing of the rotors.
Midas was asking $129 + $30 for resurfacing. Mieneke was $189 for each axle.
You aren't screwed, however. You can still get the R12--it's a bit expensive, but if your AC system is in good shape, one charge should last a number of years; on the bright side, the R12 probably will cool better.
The biggest obstacle is finding a shop that has some on hand or who will order it for you.
Perhaps you can compare the cost of recharging with R12 vs. conversion to R134 and go from there.
If you think it is worth it, I suppose you could sue in Small Claims court for misrepresentation of the car, but really, you probably are not damaged much beyond the $200 bucks or so to fill it with R12 (just a guess on price--any defects in your AC system, leaks, etc, would be extra).
I'd chalk this up to dealer ignorance rather than deception, but---intentional or not, it's still misrepresentation in my non-legal-expert opinion.
thanks
Open that glove compartment, and turn to about the middle of the owners manual.
Turn the key to the 'on' position.
Press the trip button meter until it displays the “Trip A" odometer.
Turn they key to the off position.
Then while holding the trip meter down, turn the key to the 'on' position. 4 blinking dashes will display and they will count down.
When the last dash disappears 000000 is displayed to indicate the maintenance counter has been reset.
Normally how much will it cost for 60K service for Toyota Camry V6 engine.
The check engine light may not be related to any of the items listed in the 60K maintenance interval -- so without a diagnosis, it's not possible to estimate what the charge for a remedy might be. You can get an auto parts store like Auto Zone, Advance, or NAPA to read the code for the check engine light (for free), then look it up on the internet to see what the code might mean.
You connect the applicable tool to the tensioner, and with the power leverage put pressure in the direction which will unload the tension. The belt will begin to get loose, and with your 2nd hand take the belt off one of the pulleys so when you gently let the tensioner back is moves back easily. Don't let it snap back.
Take the old belt off, pay attention as to the routing of the belt around the different pulleys. Typically there is a graphic under the hood on all vehicles, which shows you how the belt is supposed to route.
It can be tight working the belt into the correct position. Depending upon how the belt is routed on any vehicle, you may have to unbolt an engine support bar. Other vehicles you also take out an access panel behind the front right wheel.
Work the new belt into the proper position to all but one of the pulleys, put tension back on the tensioner so you can get the belt into final position, and ease up on the tool again so that the tensioner is riding on the belt correctly. You also want to make sure the belt sits on all of the pulleys correctly. You don't want it to be off a groove, or your belt won't last long.
Depending on the vehicle manufacturer, model, make, year, and engine.....this can be a 10 minute job, or more than an hour.
It can be common to have a bad tensioner, either the pulley on the tensioner is bad, or the spring is bad. If this is the case, then while you have the belt off, you unbolt the whole tensioner assembly off the side of the engine and replace it with a new one, then put a new belt on as described above.
Good luck.
Edit:
Just found a general ehow, watch this:
belt off
belt on
Actually, there are a whole series of these, dealing w/serpentine belt and pulleys.
Thanks Dano
My 2004 Camry 4-cyl has just under 93k on it. The hard rubber bushing in the dogbone is definitely broken--you can see it from the side. Result: not a lot of vibration but a definite thud sometimes when the car is started. I had this issue on a 1986 Buick Century and changed this arm twice during my 14-yeqr ownership of that car. When you talk of special equipment you must be thinking of the lower engine mounts. Changing the dogbone is a very simple operation, involving a rachet wrench period (I hope). I'll do it tomorrow and tell you how it turns out. To change the lower mounts you need to raiser the engine a tad bit and I don't really want to get into that.
I still would like to hear from folks who have done this, especially if anyone ran into complications.
Metalibrarian
First of all, this is Venice, Fla, home of the "graying of America", and that makes us prime targets for the service dept..Oil change only, okay, don't field strip the car looking for problems. Been there before and here it comes..Reseal valve cover Gasket-$155, Replace drive belt $135, and Replace leaking water pump and coolant $480..My responce, Change the oil and quit fiddling with trying to bankrupt me..
Belt is okay, no leaking oil gasket and no water leak..all 3 cars in the garage leak nothing.. except a/c condensation..
I just bought this car(2002 CAmry, v6). It has 49,600 miles on it.
The car has some breaking issues. when i bought the car I took it to MIDAS for inspection.According to them the rear brake rotors have some problem and needs to be replaced (may be rear brake pads too). The cost will be around $300. I have been looking at some stuff online to check it, and looks like its not a big deal to change rotors.
I want to give it a try myself. as the Machenic will charge me too much. Is there anyway you guys can help me? I want to know what kind of tools and what size of tools I will need to change Rear Rotors, How to know If i really need to change rear rotors and brake pads? and if possible please share some vedio article about how to do it, And which brand should i use for as rotors and pads? Also, Pleas suggest some Repair shop in Dublin Ohio, If possible.
Rotors can be measured for wear and run-out and pads can be measured in MMeters for wear and projected mileage. If nobody showed you these things then you don't have to take their word for anything.
2.) The check engine light came on so I did my usual bit: tried filling it up at a different station and made sure the gas cap clicked into place. A couple times it would go off but then back on and been on ever since.
3.) Last night this POS damn near killed me in one of the craphole murder capitals of New Jersey. I was turning through an intersection and it started to buck and the front wheels wouldn't move correctly. I managed to not get hit by an oncoming SUV and chug over to the gutter. The TRAC OFF light came on. I tried the simplest thing: hitting the TRAC button. Nope. Nothing. Light still on.
Any ideas on any of these problems?
I cannot wait until the day when I can afford to switch back to Mazda or Hyundai.
Fact is, Toyota builds a more reliable car than Mazda or Hyundai, per CR, True Delta, JD Power, etc. etc.
Sorry about your luck, but you can't judge a whole company by one used car.
Is anyone familiar on how many air fuel ratio sensor does '99 Solara have?
Thanks!
**A co-worker has a '97 Camry 2.2 4cyl and has PO401 code for the EGR valve having a restricted flow. I verified this this morning before we left work with my code reader and it was there. This car runs like a top according to him, he got it with 47K on it and it now has a little over 93K. I heard it run and it idles and sounds great, a very clean looking motor. He can't get the car inspected here in Pa. with that light on. He said he changed the EGR and gasket, also the other part next to it, the transducer I believe and also the electrical part as well. He says he cleaned the carbon out of the throttle body as well. He loves this car. I tried to clear the code with my scanner with no results, unless it takes a few start cycles to actually clear it. Any suggestions on how to resolve this issue would be appreciated. Thanks!
**
WHAT A TERRIFIC VEHICLE!!!
I've had my 2008 Solara SLEv6 for almost 5 years now, and have 90k very happy miles on her.
In all this time with all this driving, the only problems I had were two headlamp bulbs - one HID bulb and one high-beam bulb. WOW. Toyota knows how to make a car!
I suppose I deserve a little bit of the credit as well, since I am very big on preventive maintenance.
I'd like to take a moment to share with you some of the things I did over the last 5 years that could've helped get me to this point. In no particular order...
1.I change my oil myself every 3k miles. I only use Castrol, and Toyota filters. I let the car sit for 5-20 minutes to let most of the old oil drip out.
2.Appx. every 15-25k miles I drain the trans fluid and refill with ONLY Toyota OEM Type-IV fluid. When you do this you can ony get out about 5 quarts, but that's better than nothing.
3.Rotate my tires appx. every 5k miles and ensure proper torque of lug nuts. Bought new Michelins at 49k and they're still holding out.
4.Put Techron Concentrate Plus into my tank appx 3x/4x a year. I've recently switched to BG44k, however.
5.Inspect my air and cabin filters every few months, and change (OEM only) as necessary.
6.Flush out my cooling system appx every 30k.
7.One squirt of WD-40 into all lock cylinders once/year.
8.Replaced front & rear breaks at 49k (still had life left to them).
Sounds like you've got a great car there, Solaraman! Hats off to you for taking great care of this car and staying on top of things. And look at all the money you've saved by doing these things yourself. Hope you have many more great miles left in her!!