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Comments
You must differentiate between “Drive Belts, Timing Belts & Timing Chain.
As each one of them means different thing
As follows:
1- Drive Belts are the external forward belts those drive the FWD accessories like generator, cooling fans, air-condition compressor, etc.
2- Timing Belts same as Timing Chain except they are made from Serpentine rubber Belts.
3- Timing Chain same as Timing Belts except they are made from durable metals.
4- Both Timing Chain & Timing Belts work internally.
5- So your car either has Timing Chain or Timing Belts.
6- DON’T confuse your self between Timing Chain & Timing Belts.
7- Timing Chain last very long time as long as you replace your oil
regularly at least every 5000 KMs.
Best Regards.
HjaziM13
On timing issues, the car would run rough if not done correctly. Correctly, being out of time. I doubt that, but these cars don't really have any tune-up items. I would think a new set of plug wires and some plugs, and cleaning of the throttle plate with alcohol. That's my major tune up.
How long will the timing chain last on these new camry and what will be the cost to replace them?
After driving the car for 2600 miles, it died and had to be towed to the dealership that did the original job. They said they found a "failed crank sensor" which they replaced. The invoice said the following were also replaced: tensioner assembly for the timing belt, thread insert, and bolt.
Do you think the original job was not done correctly or is it just a coincidence that what was fixed the second time had do do with the timing belt.
Thanks in advance for your response.
My guess is that the opposite occurred -- the water pump bearing seized, which caused both the leak and the timing belt to break. The latter means the car won't start.
* Water Pump Leak
* Oil leak from VVTI ( variable valve timing intelligent ) pipe ( Bank 1 )
* Knocking Noise at first start in the morning or when vehicle seated for long time.
( this cause by the VVTI gear not locking up )
* Timing Chain Equipted and its not easy to replaced, You have to remove most of the parts like, oil pan, sub oil pan, water pump, steering pump, drain coolant and oil.
* VVTI gear replacement ( follow the same procedure of replacing Timing Chain.
If you notice one of those problems send your vehicle to your nearest dealer for warranty.
http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3598&go=Interference
1. If you have an interference engine, then when your timing belt breaks it *might/probably* will damage your engine.
2. If you have an non-interference engine, then when your timing belt breaks, the car will stop propelling forward and will roll to a stop. Your engine will not be damaged from the incident.
For example, look up a 4 cylinder 1996 Honda Accord (interference). See all the red text warning in the timing belt section of parts? Now look up a 4 cylinder Toyota Camry. Not red text means it is a non-interference engine.
The injector harness has enough room to go over the manifold once in place also.
Air pipes and everything else would be bolted on after the head was installed.
Let me know what you think and if tried this.
Thanks
2. Install spark plug tubes
3. Assemble exhaust camshaft (ie gear spring, sub gear, wave washer, etc)
4. Install camshafts
5. Check and adjust valve clearance
6. Install Semi-circular plugs
7. Install PCV Valve and High tension cords clamp
8. Install cylinder head cover
9. Install Oil Pressure switch
10. Install Alternator bracket
11. Install Engine Hangers
12. Install #3 Timing belt cover
13. Temporarily install #1 idler pulley and tension spring
14. Install Camshaft timing pulley and timing belt
15. Install injectors and delivery pipe
16. Install intake manifold
17. Install VSV
18. Calif only: connect VSV connector
19. Connect knock sensor and VSV connectors
20. Install 2 engine wire ground straps to intake manifold
21/22. Install air tube, Calif/no-california
23. Connect vacuum hoses
24. Connect a/c idle-up valve connector for AC
25. Install EGR valve and vacuum modulator
26. Install throttle body
27. Install Water Bypass pipe
28. Install water outlet
29. Connect engine wire for O2 sensors to engine hanger
30. Connect oil pressure switch connector
31. Assemble exhaust manifold and warm up 3way cat converter
32. Install exhaust manifold and warm up 3 way assembly
33. Connect front exhaust pipe
34. Install distributor
35. Install Alternator
36. Install air cleaner cap, resonator and air cleaner hose
37. A/T: connect and adjust throttle cable
38. Connect and adjust accelerator cable
39. Fill w/engine coolant
40. Connect neg terminal cable to battery
41. Start engine and check for leaks
42. Adjust ignition timing
43. Perform road test
44. Recheck engine coolant level and oil level.
The injector harness has enough room to go over the manifold once in place also.
Air pipes and everything else would be bolted on after the head was installed.
Let me know what you think and if tried this.
Thanks
Wondering if anyone here has and answer to this.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
35. REMOVE CAMSHAFTS
NOTICE: Since the thrust clearance of the camshaft is
small, the camshaft must be kept level while it is being
removed. If the camshaft is not kept level, the portion of
the cylinder head receiving the shaft thrust may crack or
be damaged, causing the camshaft to seize or break. To
avoid this, the following steps should be carried out.
A. Remove exhaust camshaft
(a) Set the knock pin of the intake camshaft at 10–45°
BTDC of camshaft position.
HINT: The above angle allows No.2 and No.4 cylinder
cam lobes of the exhaust camshaft to push their valve
lifters evenly.
(b) Secure the exhaust camshaft sub gear to drive gear
with a service bolt.
Recommended service bolt:
Thread diameter6 mm
Thread pitch 1.0 mm
Bolt length 16–20 m m (0.63–0.79 in.)
HINT: When removing the camshaft, make sure that
the torsional spring force of the sub gear has been
eliminated by the above operation.
B. Install exhaust camshaft
(a) Set the knock pin of the intake camshaft at 10–45°
BTDC of camshaft angle.
HINT: The above angle allows the No.2 and No.4
cylinder cam lobes of the exhaust camshaft to push
their valve lifters evenly.
(b) Apply MP grease to the thrust portion of the cam–
shaft.
(c) Engage the exhaust camshaft gear to the intake cam–
shaft gear by matching the timing marks on each gear.
(d) Roll down the exhaust camshaft onto the bearing
journals while engaging gears with each other.
NOTICE: There are also assembly reference marks on
each gear as shown in the Illustration. Do not use these
marks.
5. CHECK AND ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE
(See page EG1–12)
Turn the camshaft and position the cam lobe upward,
and check and adjust the valve clearance.
Valve clearance (Cold):
Intake
0.19 – 0.29 mm (0.007 – 0.011 In.)
Exhaust
0.28 – 0.38 mm (0.011 – 0.015 In.)
(e) Turn the intake camshaft clockwise or counterclockwise little
by little until the exhaust camshaft sits in
the bearing journals evenly without rocking the cam–
shaft on the bearing journals.
NOTICE: It is very important to replace the camshaft in
the bearing journals evenly while tightening bearing caps
in the subsequent steps.
(f) Install the bearing caps in their proper locations.
(g) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and
under the heads of the bearing cap bolts.
(h) Install and uniformly tighten the 10 bearing cap bolts
in several passes, in the sequence shown.
Torque: 19 N–m (190 kgf–cm, 14 ft–lbf)
(i) Remove the service bolt (B).
5S–FE ENGINE – ENGINE MECHANICAL
EG1–71
I wouldn't be replacing it w/35K miles on the new belt.
I don't remember off the top of my head whether this is an interference engine or not (interference = if the timing belt breaks, the valves can get bent from the piston).
P0115 Engine Coolant Temp Circuit Malfunction
P0340 Cam Shaft Position Sensor A-Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
P0401 EGR Flow Insufficient
My friend noticed the coolant looks "dirty" and the level is at "just above the Low mark" and that my oil, (although I get timely changes) looked "not good" as well.
Another friend thats going to work on my car said after he puts in a new belt, the rest will probably fall into place (besides the fluids of course)
I haven't any family, am a single mom, and just have these couple friends to look to for automotive guidance but want to make sure I am doing what sounds right? I'm buying a new belt tomorrow and paying him 150-200.00 for his labor, Help? :confuse:
If the timing belt broke, the engine would stop immediately, it would not continue to run sluggishly.
I would suspect a more serious engine problem, if it was sounding like nuts and bolts clanging around. What is the mileage on this engine?
If you're quite sure none of these items have been attended to since year 2000, they are certainly all due. Pay now or pay more later, is how I see it.
Of course, if you plan to just ditch the car when something big breaks, then maybe just running 'er into the ground isn't a bad idea.
No saying how long a timing belt will last---being a Toyota, probably a long time.
Gerald Beveridge
Thanks..
They used to be belts many years ago. The 4 cylinder was first to shift to a chain.
I recommend using a well-regarded independent shop, and the cost will vary greatly depending on where you live. I'd say to expect paying at least $300, not including the water pump, but this can easily be doubled in a major metro area.
Maybe a serpentine belt for 200, which parts would cost maybe 30 bucks and 10 minutes of time.
Thanks
Dano
Thanks
Dano
90,000 Miles or 108 Months
Replace engine oil and oil filter1
Rotate tires (except MR2 Spyder)
Replace cabin air filter (Camry and Camry Solara)
Replace engine air filter
Replace spark plugs (ECHO)
Replace timing belt (Camry with 1MZ-FE or 3MZ-FE, Camry Solara with
3MZ-FE, Sienna)
Thanks