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My question is about the battery terminal connectors and battery cable to the terminal connector. My terminal connector needs to be replaced, (Toyota's set up sucks btw). However, there is an additional small wire piggybacked onto the connector. I am not sure of the thickness, perhaps 1/4 inch or about as thick as a telephone line.
I am wondering what this is for? It appears to run along the main positive battery cable and into a part of a wiring harness. Could it be for ground or some other reason? At one time the car had an alarm system, which I had uninstalled. Is it perhaps a leftover hot wire from a poor uninstall. Does it make sense the wire would coincide with the hot battery terminal plug wire?
Any information would help.
Thanks,
:confuse:
Thanks for any help.
Peter
- 10 Amp IG2
- 10 Amp Gauge 1
- 10 Amp ECU-B
When I hooked up the new battery, I noticed something was drawing a little power, as I heard the light sound of electricity as the negative cable neared the negative post. The positive cable was hooked up first. I assume the power draw would have been the dome light, as the drivers door was open, and I have the dome light switch set so the dome light comes on when the door opens. I don't think my trunk light is working right now, the bulb probably needs changing.
I talked to my mechanic, who hasn't heard of the speedo problem before. He said the idle speed needed to be relearned, as it's controlled by an idle motor.
I'm going in for a 30K service later this week, my mechanic says the speedo problem is easy to diagnose.
I'm wondering if its an electronic speedo or traditional cable actuated?
Sensors on the wheels and transmission.
That would be quite a coincidence.
The input sensors report how each wheel, the transmission output shaft, and the engine are spinning. The computer collects and 'processes' this information (from these and hundreds of other sensors). It then sends that info to other things as 'outputs'.
The speedometer display is just one output device.
I had you test those fuses, as those are the fuses which supply power to the display. If somehow one of those fuses blew during the battery change, then that is one obvious first diagnosis step.
A second step then would be to check whether your cruise control works. If the cruise control works, then you know that that the speed sensors are working correctly, and being processed correctly by the engine computer. That would eliminate the 'input' sensors as likely causing the problem.
That would then leave you the computer itself (the piece feeding the display), or the internals of the display (since you've already checked that it is getting power).
It's hard to diagnose the display further without replacing it.
Failing computer processing, could be hardware or software (similar to a PC). Software problems can be resolved by the dealership reloading the software in the computer. Hardware problems are resolved by replacing the computer. The dealership has a device which tests the computer hardware and tells you whether it is defective or not.
When I recently replaced batteries in two of our vehicles, I borrowed from the parts store a battery jumper which also had a plug that plugs into the OBD connector, thereby continuing to provide stable voltage to the computer while the battery is swapped out. Replaced batteries in both a Toyota and a Ford, with no problems after the fact.
Thanks!
In very rare instances, there's computer damage.
Two solutions (1) one from choochooman above--borrowed from a parts store or (2) buy your own. I got a little device with a 9-volt battery that plugs into your cigarette lighter (or whatever they call them these days) and keeps just enough juice running thru the system while you're changing the carbattery to keep the codes fresh. Less than ten bucks. Mine was marketed by a company called Noco.
Be aware, when you use either a jumpstart thingee or a 9-volt device, you can't have any draw on electricity. You have to make sure your radio is off and all lights are not operating. You can't open the door and suddenly have a light(s) try to function when you only have a little 9-volter plugged into your cigarette lighter! Best to open a window and operate the device thru that. The Noco directions actually advise users to pull the fuses for lights and stuff. I don't think one needs to do that as long as one ensures a light won't try to go on.
The car is with my mechanic now, and he can't figure out what the problem is. In fact, I told him that my mom is willing to pay whatever is necessary to fix it (it has no other problems), but he simply doesn't know. Clearly, something is draining the battery when it's sitting in the garage but it's nothing obvious.
Would anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks!
Door ajar.
Remove the bulbs from the dome/map/courtesy and the sun visor mirror(s)for awhile.
Thanks again!
Ask me 2-3 miles down the road if I remember locking the door.....
Checking the doorS to be closed is made more difficult by the fact that the interior lights have a delayed off....You either have to walk around and SEE that the other doors are actually closed or stand and wait for the lights to extinguish.
I'm lucky in that I am not, "knock-on-wood" (KNOCK, KNOCK), yet really losing my short term memory....who do you suppose that is knocking on the front door at this hour of the morning...??
You'll undoubtedly find a set of electrical schematics very helpful, assuming whoever is troubleshooting this knows how to read them.
I've seen things like:
- trunk light bulbs on
- glove light bulbs on
- stuck relays
- electric seat switch bad keeping the motor energized
- defective radios, or aftermarked radios not installed correctly
- a defective engine computer, or defective body control modules
- diodes bad in the alternator
Could be any number of problems.