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Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions

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Comments

  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hi All. the other night in my 99 camry the check engine light came on as I started the car. The gear indicator in the gauge cluster stays put in the "R" position no matter what gear I am in and my reverse lights are constantly on...I am guessing this is the neautral safety switch? If so any ideas how much a new switch would cost me?.....thanks
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    First, get your check engine light diagnosed and taken care of, that way any problems will be eliminated. The Nuetral saftey switch is part of the actuall shifter on your model on the transmission. Although that may not be the problem because if that is sensing reverse all the tine, it wouldnt allow the engine to crank over when the ignition is turned to start.
  • cal1218cal1218 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I have a '98 Camry that as of today will not start. A couple of days ago I went out to start it and could hear a clicking/rattling noise under the hood. I didn't move or drive the car that day, just left it as is.
    Ok today, I go out and it did start, however after driving just a few feet it died. Now it will still turnover, but it is not connecting at all. We had to push it back to get it back in the parking spot.
    I called a Toyota dealer (of course saying I have to bring it in) but also stated it could be the battery.
    I've never had a problem before. Just a sudden thing??!!

    Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing this problem?

    Thanks so much!
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    If the engine is turning over, you need to check the following. Check the fuel pressure, strong spark and good compression. Do the fuel pressure check first since the symptoms are sudden, i'm leaning towards a fuel pump problem.
  • chevesjchevesj Member Posts: 2
    :sick: Does anyone have information about a sludge problem with the 2003 Toyota Camry? I have a car in the shop at the Toyota dealership after the check engine light came on and the car suddenly started making a loud rattlingg noise. The dealership has told me that there is sludge in the engine, and that it is my fault for not properly maintaining the car, even though I have had regular oil changes. They say it is a $7-8 thousand repair! help or advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated. :mad:
  • cal1218cal1218 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks! Ugghhh... fuel pump problem. Sounds costly. I am going to have those other things checked as well. Hopefully, it's something that doesn't cost me an arm & a leg.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    do you have all the receipts from the oil changes and if so you can show the dealer that the oil has been changed regularly if not then it might be expensive to fix. Do you just drive a couple miles a day and didn't rack up many miles a year some people do this an build up sludge from not running the car on the highway at least once a week for about 10-15 miles to get the water vapor out of the engine which causes sludge. You can also go to the regional office of toyota if you have all the receipts for the oil changes and I heard that some engines had sludge problems a while back not sure what year toyota had the problem with the engines you can probably look on google on toyota recalls for sludge problems???? good luck. :shades:
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    Fuel pump problems I heard can be sometimes cause from letting your tank run near empty a lot causing the fuel pump which is in the gas tank to run hot due to what I hear the gas keeps the fuel pump cool and it last a long time. I have put on 385,000 miles on a toyota cressida and 200,000 miles on a camry twice and never had a fuelpump problem a toyota tech told me always keep your gas tank above a quarter tank and the fuel pump should last a long time. I don't say this is the problem with your fuel pump I just thought I would pass along the tidbit from a tech a toyota.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Deinitely call the Toyota Home Office.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "Does anyone have information about a sludge problem with the 2003 Toyota Camry? I have a car in the shop ... The dealership has told me that there is sludge in the engine, and that it is my fault for not properly maintaining the car, even though I have had regular oil changes."

    "Regular" defined by how many miles between motor oil changes? Toyota has acknowledged sludging issues with the 3.0L V6 and 2.2L I4 Camry motors for model years 1996-2001 according to Wards Auto Info Line and will repair/replace engines at company expense for up to eight years, unlimited mileage, as long as the owner can present evidence of at least one oil change per year. Since yours is an '03 model, your Camry may not qualify under that campaign. You'll only find out by contacting Toyota USA whether the company will "grandson" you into that campaign. With model year 2002, Toyota enlarged the oil return galleries in the heads and block to facilitate return flow of heated oil back to the cooler sump. The claim was doing that fixed the original problem. Starting in 2002, Toyota also shortened the recommended oil change mileage intervals - I believe down to 5,000 miles for normal service and 3,000 miles for severe service - someone correct me if that's wrong.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Out of curiosity (since I had one of the "sludger" engines -- the 2.2-liter in my former 1997 Camry), I was wondering if you have a source or link for your statement that "Toyota enlarged the oil return galleries in the heads and block to facilitate return flow of heated oil back to the cooler sump." It makes sense, but I've never seen it documented.

    I never had sludge -- the car was very reliable, but I changed the oil on a 5000-mile schedule, and reduced it to 3000-4000 miles after the sludge story broke.

    Toyota's recommended oil change interval wasn't reduced to 5000 miles (or 6 months, whichever came first) until the 2004 model year, IIRC, and there is no severe service interval of 3000 miles.
  • bmailmanbmailman Member Posts: 1
    Magoo- I have a 1995 Camry that did the exact same thing to me last night, I just got the oil changed and filled the gas tank and can't imagine why this would occur. Did you ever receive an answer? please email me bmailman@comcast.net
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    210 delray, I think you can find that information on the redesign of the engine head in several of the articles that came out about the sludge problem back in 2002. I think Automotive News is one source for this info. It was also discussed in the Engine Sludge forum here on Edmunds at around the same time (there is an old, archived forum that was started by a Toyota rep to discuss the problem when they first came up with the extended warranty to cover the sludge issue tmsusa1, "Engine Sludge/Oil Gelling--Toyota's Customer Response" ).

    One thing that confuses me, is that back in 2002, Toyota was covering some of the 2002 model year vehicles with the V-6 engine because they did not make the change to the engine head until sometime during early to mid-2002. Now most of the references don't mention that the 2002 models are covered at all.

    Regardless, 2003 models are not covered, but it seems like something Toyota would cover if one can speak to the right person and prove reasonable maintenance.

    chevesi, you didn't mention the mileage on the vehicle or whether it is still under factory warranty.
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    210delray - I found the following article with the mention of the design change:

    http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=150&did=1090

    “First, the automaker said it has made a running production change to its widely used 3.0-liter V-6 engine that will improve circulation by enabling oil to drain faster into the sump - an apparent acknowledgement that engine design has been at least part of the problem.”

    Also, USA Today ran an article: http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2002/04/04/toyota-sludge.htm
  • jessiet62jessiet62 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all!

    I'm a newbie, and already have a question! I own a 99 Camry Sedan that is having a weird problem. When the engine is cold it won't start. When you turn the key, it just clicks and all the low voltage stuff comes on. After about 3-4 turns, the engine will usually turn over, but sometimes it just turns over half-way. We've already replaced the battery and connections. I'm fearing that all this leaves is the starter, and was just wondering if anybody else out there had any suggestions before I spend a chunk of money!

    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take the car to a local autoparts store (Pep BOys, Autozone, etc), who can do a free battery/alternator check.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "...I was wondering if you have a source or link for your statement that 'Toyota enlarged the oil return galleries in the heads and block to facilitate return flow of heated oil back to the cooler sump.'..."

    Posted on BITOG a couple of years ago quoting Toyota TSBs someone had looked up at the height of the Toyota "sludgemonster" controversy. I don't have any more information than that. The relevant posts are archived and can be searched though.
  • jessiet62jessiet62 Member Posts: 2
    I did that the other day. Since the car wasn't cold, it started right up. We did replace the battery just last week, so that can't be it. It also is holding a charge, and all the low-wattage stuff comes on when the engine doesn't roll over.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well typically the pieces that cause your type of problems are:
    - Battery, when the engine is cold it is harder to turn over, at the same time when the air/battery temperature is colder the batteries output is less. Those two factors put the largest strain on the battery, and hence batteries start to show signs of failing during the winter months.
    - Alternator, which has a set of diodes in it. Could be that one of your diodes has failed, which an autoparts store check can find the maximum current output of your alternator to see if it is at it's rated output.
    - Starter motor, which has a solenoid relay on it. When the solenoid is energized by the key switch, it closes a heavyduty set of contacts enabling a large amount of current to drive the starter motor.
    - The battery cables, and connections. Over the years if you've had corrosion on your connectors, the corrosion can spread up into the cable itself, creating failures/resistance in the cable. Corrosion can be found on the battery side of the cables, but I'd also clean and check the tightness of connections on the solenoid (with battery disconnected, of course). If you have corrosion, and your cables are long enough, you can cut it back until you get to clean metal, and put new connectors on them. If not long enough, you have to replace the cables. Also need to make sure the starter bolts are tight, that's where the negative (ground) circuit is made.

    If all of these are okay, then I would look for something wrong on the engine itself which is providing soo much resistance that the starter isn't strong enough to overcome it (for instance as example, an airconditioner pump that isn't turning and frozen). But you haven't mentioned that you have any other symptoms (like belts squealing, grinding noises, devices not working,etc), and things are working when the engine is warm.

    If these are beyond your technical comfort zone capabilities, get it to your local reputable service dept.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks for the advice. I shifted the car into gear earlier in the week and the chk engine light went out as did the reverse lights....
  • chevesjchevesj Member Posts: 2
    scoti1,

    my Camry has 96,000 miles on it -- I drive alot for my job. It is not still under factory warranty, but I bought the extended warranty that my dealer strongly pushed. That warranty denied coverage, and Toyota is distancing themselves from the warranty, stating that it is an outside company and nothing to do with them.

    I do have some of my maintenance receipts, but not all. We use a local mechanic for some of our car work, and they are not computerized. I provided Toyota with the name, address and phone number of this mechanic's shop, so they could ensure legitimacy, but this didn't help. My understanding is that some Toyota owners were covered by the company and had their engines replaced, even many with no maintenance records. I believe it actually hurt my case to be honest and provide all of the records that I did have.

    I should have been more viligant about the records, but it never occurred to me that Toyota would have a faulty product, or that they wouldn't stand by the product if something went wrong.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    At this stage of your car's life (post warranty), your beef is with the third-party underwriter of your extended service contract. (Only the automaker can issue an extended warranty. What you have is, in reality, an insurance policy and is not subject to federal warranty rights under the Moss-Magnuson Act. Without receipts for designated time/mileage maintenance, the carrier is effectively telling you, "Too bad - you lose, we win." Next time you purchase a new vehicle, and if you want an extended warranty, make certain that snazzy looking certificate is issued by the automaker and not some fly-by-night paper pusher. Why would your dealer sell a non-factory extended warranty? Simple - half of whatever you paid for what amounts now to bird-cage lining, went directly toward your dealer's bottom line. He would rather sell you one of those policies than the real Toyota deal. Those policies often have more "gotchas" than trick-or-treaters on Halloween night, anyway - some requring dealer service, and automaker fluids and parts for every maintenance item for the duration of the policy. Under Moss-Magnuson, true warranties can not be that restrictive.
  • scoti1scoti1 Member Posts: 676
    I would pursue this with Toyota corporate offices and not the local dealership or the extended warranty company. If you did maintain your vehicle as specified, this should not have happened. Toyota's extended policy for the earlier models only required proof of one oil change per year and had unlimited miles. I would push that they offer the same to you. Toyota claims to have made some modifications to the engines in 2002, but I believe they were considered to be minor. There was a "sludge hotline" number to call that you may be able to find in the links I posted previously. Not sure if they are still active, but I would start there. Good luck. I would like to hear how it goes, so keep us posted.
  • jander111jander111 Member Posts: 31
    The car is a 1997 toyota camry V6, automatic. Bought it in 2001 with 110k on it and now it's about 148k. It always drive fine never a problem with that.

    Last year it got a check engine light and after 1 hour fiddling I got lucky and found a bad vacuum switching valve. After replacing it, it's being ok for half year.

    Since Jan. this year, the check engine light came on intermittently and I got a code of PO773. Now it's getting worse and light stays on almost all the time. Now I have 2 codes -- PO772 and PO773. The code reader seems saying the shift solenoid E stuck on.

    Could somebody tell me where is this solenoid? I guess it's not the solenoid valve inside the transmission, which I have to take off the trans. fluid pan to gain access?? Is the solenoid near the end of the shift lever??

    Could somebody direct me where to look first? Any hints are greatly appreciated. And, if it's the solenoid, how much would it cost? Thanks a lot!!!
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    P 0773 means there is an electrical prob. It could be some chafted wiring. If you know how to work with wires, you may be able to fix that. As for the access,Unfurtunatly, you have to remove the tranny pan to get to it. First undo the electrical connectors to all the solenoids, ussually just one fat connector on the outside of the tranny. Get a haynes manual for reference. Remove the pan and the filter for access then look at the solenoids, a cylindrical shapeded thing with two bolts holding it on, with some wires around it in the area. Remove the bolts to the solenoid that has an E printed on it. If there is no E, contact the Service dep. at Toyota and they can assist you. Solenoids are about 70 bucks for one. If you want a deal, buy a whole new set of solenoids to prevent from future pobs.
  • jander111jander111 Member Posts: 31
    Hi, penizzle, Thank you very much for your help!!!

    I checked haynes manual and there are 4 shift solenoids for this tranny (A541E)-- no.1, no.2, SL and SLN. As for electrical problem with them. It seems P0753 is for No.1, P0758 is for No.2 and P1765 is for SLN. So I guess solenoid SL is also called solenoid E ????? (There is no code for SL.)

    I'll check outside wiring first and see if there is anything wrong with the wires. If not I will look inside sometime later, don't have time to do it right away. If I keep driving like this, will I further damage anything?? It seems everything is normal, including gas mileage, if you don't look at that nasty yellow light. :)))

    However I couldn't imaging how a wire could be damaged inside the tranny. I changed the tranny fluid strainer 4 years ago but I'm sure I was very careful with the stuff inside.

    Thanks again!!! And any input is welcome!!
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    If there aren't shifting problems, then you dont have a problem. It could have been a quirk in the computer. Reset the light and see if it comes back. If you drive with it like that , there shouldn't be a problem (espesialy if there isn't a solenoid E) :P

    As for the wire, It could get damaged. The heat inside the transmission is really hard on tranny parts. Heat is the main cause of tranny failure.
  • jander111jander111 Member Posts: 31
    That sounds better!!! :)

    The check engine light goes off then back on in the past a couple of days. Now it's off again. I don't have a code reader to reset the code.

    Something is wrong, maybe not serious. I'll try to find a time to do a painful wiring check. :cry:
  • smile1017smile1017 Member Posts: 37
    I just repaired the head gasket on my 99 4 cyl camry. The mechanic replaced all the seals and gaskets and says the engine is as good as new except for the 117K miles already on it. So, I don't want to have this problem again. They said that is was a small oil like into the gasket because the seals were old and starting to show wear with stress point where there was probably a leak causing some and a little over heating. I am now using a Castrol high mileage oil when I change the oil myself (99% of the time). I only have the mechanic change to oil at key inspection times. Should I change the oil I use or do I need to switch to synthetic. Some feedback would definitely help. I get my car back tomorrow.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    IMO, synthetic is unnecessary if you change the oil frequently enough (5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first).

    I don't think the brand is all that important either (see ray_hi's post #765 above), but I use name brands like Havoline (Texaco), Mobil, or Formula Shell. However, be sure the oil is of the correct viscosity (5W-30 for the Camry 4-cylinder, 1997-2006).
  • smile1017smile1017 Member Posts: 37
    Thanks for the info. Just got a call from the mechanic, and he thinks the previous mechanic damaged some parts that caused the problem with my head gasket. I will find out what was wrong when I go pick up the car later today. I guess I may get some of my $1400 back after all. :) If it is serious, I guess I will take the mechanic to small claims and reveal the shop name when I get confirmation later today.
  • jack51jack51 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I have a 98 2.2L I4 Camry. Yesterday when I drive it, the engine died and failed to start suddently. Two hours later, after AAA staff come to towl it, they found that the battery works fine and the engine work again. However after driving for around 30 meters on the road the engine died again.

    Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing this problem?

    Now I am very scared to get the car die on the road again.

    Thanks so much!
  • jack51jack51 Member Posts: 2
    When the car was towed to a car shop, the tech can't repeat or detect the problem. Initially they suggest to replace the battery, but finally they used back it because they think that battery is ok.
  • yankeryanker Member Posts: 156
    The 97 in question has just under 100 000 miles and we have added smoke treatment from the auto parts store. Is this serious and what should ultimately happen in the way of repairs Also is it common?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It's very common as I understand. Our former '97 4-cylinder had it twice. The first time, at 57K miles, the valve stem seals were replaced in the nick of time under the powertrain warranty.

    Then it happened again at 102K miles -- blue smoke on cold startup (first thing in the morning). I didn't do anything about it this time. I sold the car at 111K miles and disclosed the problem.

    I think it can be ignored as long as it only happens on a cold start. Plus, it shouldn't affect emissions testing.

    I doubt the smoke treatment will be helpful.
  • joekrishjoekrish Member Posts: 5
    Hello to all;

    Heading back to the dealer for the 4th time. Had a oil leak associated with the timing chain cover. After a tidy sum thought it was good as new...It has continued to leak all be it less each return trip....Anyone have a similar experience....It is still making a 2 to 3 inch circle every night.....I haven't seen any related discussion....Joe
  • rchavarchava Member Posts: 1
    Jack,
    I have 97 2.2 L engine. My car also died on the road yesterday. Can you please tell what was diagonosed with your car?

    Thanks
    Anand
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    Change the starter and also have some one check the alternator to see if it is putting out enough voltage and amperage, some time the schrader diodes go bad causing the alternator not to fully charge only a limited charge. The only other possibility is if you start and stop your car several times a day on short trips and dont get on the road for a 20 minutes every so often you could be pulling the battery down from a lot of starts and not re charging the battery by driving the car enough.
  • powerqqpowerqq Member Posts: 1
    Hello, All,

    I just registered to seek advice from you. This morning on my way to work, the engine revved up to 5500 rpm when I accelerated from a local road to a state highway. The engine kept running at 5000 rpm with loud noice if I maintained at 60 miles/hr. This has never happened before, I used to see it at 2900 rpm @ 60 miles/hr. I am wondering if you guys know what the problem might be? What need to be done to fix it? It appears that I have to visit an auto shop next week, but I want to get educated here before I visit the auto shop.

    BTW, I drove a 2002 Toyota Camry with ~70k miles now. Thanks for your help!

    Brian
  • bigalsterbigalster Member Posts: 2
    My problem is with my 2001 Toyoto Camry I have only about 31,600 miles, just last week i had front flexible pipe and catalytic converter replaced,corrosion(i live in Montreal, Canada,our winters are deadly and so is salt:) I saw old unit and i could see for myself the corrosion.This seems unusal for a 6yr old car but consider our winters. A day or two later i experienced vibrations in engine especially when i am stopped in drive and brake pedal down,you can feel and hear it. This seems somewhat coincidental that this problem arose after replacing front flexible pipe and CAT-converter doesn't it? My buddy seems to think it is engine mount problem,i know there is one right beside the manifold,the bigger one and another mount on top which is smaller.The fact that one of the engine mounts is close to manifold and Cat converter may be significant.Perhaps they forget to bolt something,or something is rubbing against it.My buddy said it is unlikely it is the bigger engine mount as there is a good bit of space between the two and there would be no need to unloosen mount to get at front flexible and Cat-converter when they replaced it. Can you help me post this message on line ??
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    If you trust the place where you got the catalytic converter and pipe replaced, I'd go back and ask them about this new problem. My guess is that it is unrelated, but you never know.
  • bigalsterbigalster Member Posts: 2
    hey delray, my garage adjusted a bolt on the newly replaced flexible front-end pipe and cat converter,made sure it wasn't rubbing against anything.Seems better,i had mechanic sit in and told him to grab steering wheel and asked him if he feklt any unusual vibrations,he said no,every car has some vibration,so perhaps it was my paranoia ,but i was sure i felt something out of the ordinary,the mounts are all alright...so i guess i will keep on driving....Thx for input :)
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    That's good! Keep your fingers crossed!
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    Hello all,

    Our 93 Camry Le 2.2 4cyl with 286,000 miles it driving us nuts. The problem is that whenever the car is placed in drive or reverse and you aren't moving, it vibrates bad, unless you increase the rpm's a little, but even if you rev the engine, it vibrates more than it used to. This is my dad's car and he is an ex mechanic and know pretty much aljl things about cars. He thinks that it might be the balance shafts in the engine, but this car has so many miles, i dont think it's worth it. The engine has never been replaced or had major work done. We know that it isn't misfiring or running rough.

    Here is all of the repairs we have done to try to fix the problem : motor and tranny mounts, plug replacement, all fluids replaced(not for the prob. but just maintenence), and we put a bottle of gum out fuel system cleaner in, all to no avail.

    This car is amazing. In its 13 year and 300,00 mile history, the only repairs we have done, all recent, were drive axles, water pump, radiator, a couple of batteries, front exhaust pipe, and battery cable clamps.

    So what do you guys think??? THis is my car in 5 months and i dont want to give it up.

    Thanks,
    Brad
  • blackexv6blackexv6 Member Posts: 503
    My old '94 Camry with 165k miles had the same problem.

    Someone told me that this issue is common with the 4cyl Camry and it is caused by a bad throttle position sensor.

    I'm not sure this is the solution...maybe some other people can help troubleshoot.
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    thank you, any other suggestions from anyone?
  • camrytercamryter Member Posts: 1
    This may not be the cause of your vibration. However, I have had a 92 Camry Le 2.2 L.

    Since you have changed all motor and tranny mounts, and if the job was done with reputable parts and labor them I hope we can assume that these items are not part of the problem. A lot of mechanics can tell you that there may be a few causes occuring at the same time to compound a vibration problem. Eliminating one, e.g. replacing the motor mounts and tranny mounts may have fixed some of the vibration. This will be true if the vibration is now less. If the vibration has not reduced then that was not the cause of vibration. Obviously you will need to look somewhere else.

    Firstly:You may want to really rule out if there is no misfiring. The only to really rule this out is to do an exhaust emissions test. If your engine is misfiring due to faulty fuel injectors, throttle valve body, bad air intake manifold air pressure sensor, then it will show up in excessive exhaust carbon emisions(provided your catalytic converter is in good condition). If the car's emission is within specifications or even a little over the emission's specifications(considering the high mileage on your car) , then you can definitely rule out vibration caused by miss firing. Shop around to see how much an emissions test will cost at a reputable garage. Usually, it is affordable.

    Secondly: I am in agreement with your Dad's diagnosis. Since the car is already at 300,000 miles, you or your Dad must have had the car's timing belt changed at least once or twice. Now, this again is a possiblity. That is whether the timing belt was done correctly. When the timing bely is replaced, the new timing belt must be installed with the counter-balancing shaft and cam and crank shafts in exact degrees of angle or position in relationship with each other. Hence, this is why the belt is called a timing belt. If replaced properly, it will ensure that the camshaft, countershaft abd crank shaft are in exact timing with each other. A lot of times, the counter balancing shaft may be off by a few degrees and the balancing of the whole engine is off. The amount of degree off will create a related amount of vibration. Again, I am not suggesting that anybody miss-installed the timing belt. I am merely expressing opinions of what may be the issues of the vibration.

    Thirdly: If you are still using the factory installed timing belt and at 300,000 miles this has not been changed then all I can say is wow!.

    I hope this sheds some light.
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    Thanks, we will take a look at that. We think if that if that happen that it probably happened after we replaced the water pump.

    We just havent gotten to really looked at it yet deeply yet.

    Thanks for the help
  • varnishvarnish Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 93 Camry, 2.2L Auto, it vibrates at 50mph & up.

    I initially thought it was tires, but no, then engine mounts, not those either, now i'm thinking about transmission but want to be sure before i spend the cash.

    Got any ideas what the problem could be ?

    It revs fine, and a full throttle standing start is also good up to the 50 mph point where it begins to shake about. Backing off the throttle stops the shaking, as does flicking it into neutral.

    I'm not sure where to look next - advice greatly appreciated.
  • zed421vzed421v Member Posts: 28
    I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl with 18,000 miles. I use Mobil 1 Syn oil, and change my oil every 4,000 miles. I have developed a persistent valve tap noise which appears to be getting worse. I took my car to two Toyota dealers and they both tell me this is normal. The engine also isn't as smooth running as it was a while ago. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank you
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