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I have a '98 Camry that as of today will not start. A couple of days ago I went out to start it and could hear a clicking/rattling noise under the hood. I didn't move or drive the car that day, just left it as is.
Ok today, I go out and it did start, however after driving just a few feet it died. Now it will still turnover, but it is not connecting at all. We had to push it back to get it back in the parking spot.
I called a Toyota dealer (of course saying I have to bring it in) but also stated it could be the battery.
I've never had a problem before. Just a sudden thing??!!
Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing this problem?
Thanks so much!
"Regular" defined by how many miles between motor oil changes? Toyota has acknowledged sludging issues with the 3.0L V6 and 2.2L I4 Camry motors for model years 1996-2001 according to Wards Auto Info Line and will repair/replace engines at company expense for up to eight years, unlimited mileage, as long as the owner can present evidence of at least one oil change per year. Since yours is an '03 model, your Camry may not qualify under that campaign. You'll only find out by contacting Toyota USA whether the company will "grandson" you into that campaign. With model year 2002, Toyota enlarged the oil return galleries in the heads and block to facilitate return flow of heated oil back to the cooler sump. The claim was doing that fixed the original problem. Starting in 2002, Toyota also shortened the recommended oil change mileage intervals - I believe down to 5,000 miles for normal service and 3,000 miles for severe service - someone correct me if that's wrong.
I never had sludge -- the car was very reliable, but I changed the oil on a 5000-mile schedule, and reduced it to 3000-4000 miles after the sludge story broke.
Toyota's recommended oil change interval wasn't reduced to 5000 miles (or 6 months, whichever came first) until the 2004 model year, IIRC, and there is no severe service interval of 3000 miles.
One thing that confuses me, is that back in 2002, Toyota was covering some of the 2002 model year vehicles with the V-6 engine because they did not make the change to the engine head until sometime during early to mid-2002. Now most of the references don't mention that the 2002 models are covered at all.
Regardless, 2003 models are not covered, but it seems like something Toyota would cover if one can speak to the right person and prove reasonable maintenance.
chevesi, you didn't mention the mileage on the vehicle or whether it is still under factory warranty.
http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=150&did=1090
“First, the automaker said it has made a running production change to its widely used 3.0-liter V-6 engine that will improve circulation by enabling oil to drain faster into the sump - an apparent acknowledgement that engine design has been at least part of the problem.”
Also, USA Today ran an article: http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2002/04/04/toyota-sludge.htm
I'm a newbie, and already have a question! I own a 99 Camry Sedan that is having a weird problem. When the engine is cold it won't start. When you turn the key, it just clicks and all the low voltage stuff comes on. After about 3-4 turns, the engine will usually turn over, but sometimes it just turns over half-way. We've already replaced the battery and connections. I'm fearing that all this leaves is the starter, and was just wondering if anybody else out there had any suggestions before I spend a chunk of money!
Thanks
Posted on BITOG a couple of years ago quoting Toyota TSBs someone had looked up at the height of the Toyota "sludgemonster" controversy. I don't have any more information than that. The relevant posts are archived and can be searched though.
- Battery, when the engine is cold it is harder to turn over, at the same time when the air/battery temperature is colder the batteries output is less. Those two factors put the largest strain on the battery, and hence batteries start to show signs of failing during the winter months.
- Alternator, which has a set of diodes in it. Could be that one of your diodes has failed, which an autoparts store check can find the maximum current output of your alternator to see if it is at it's rated output.
- Starter motor, which has a solenoid relay on it. When the solenoid is energized by the key switch, it closes a heavyduty set of contacts enabling a large amount of current to drive the starter motor.
- The battery cables, and connections. Over the years if you've had corrosion on your connectors, the corrosion can spread up into the cable itself, creating failures/resistance in the cable. Corrosion can be found on the battery side of the cables, but I'd also clean and check the tightness of connections on the solenoid (with battery disconnected, of course). If you have corrosion, and your cables are long enough, you can cut it back until you get to clean metal, and put new connectors on them. If not long enough, you have to replace the cables. Also need to make sure the starter bolts are tight, that's where the negative (ground) circuit is made.
If all of these are okay, then I would look for something wrong on the engine itself which is providing soo much resistance that the starter isn't strong enough to overcome it (for instance as example, an airconditioner pump that isn't turning and frozen). But you haven't mentioned that you have any other symptoms (like belts squealing, grinding noises, devices not working,etc), and things are working when the engine is warm.
If these are beyond your technical comfort zone capabilities, get it to your local reputable service dept.
my Camry has 96,000 miles on it -- I drive alot for my job. It is not still under factory warranty, but I bought the extended warranty that my dealer strongly pushed. That warranty denied coverage, and Toyota is distancing themselves from the warranty, stating that it is an outside company and nothing to do with them.
I do have some of my maintenance receipts, but not all. We use a local mechanic for some of our car work, and they are not computerized. I provided Toyota with the name, address and phone number of this mechanic's shop, so they could ensure legitimacy, but this didn't help. My understanding is that some Toyota owners were covered by the company and had their engines replaced, even many with no maintenance records. I believe it actually hurt my case to be honest and provide all of the records that I did have.
I should have been more viligant about the records, but it never occurred to me that Toyota would have a faulty product, or that they wouldn't stand by the product if something went wrong.
Last year it got a check engine light and after 1 hour fiddling I got lucky and found a bad vacuum switching valve. After replacing it, it's being ok for half year.
Since Jan. this year, the check engine light came on intermittently and I got a code of PO773. Now it's getting worse and light stays on almost all the time. Now I have 2 codes -- PO772 and PO773. The code reader seems saying the shift solenoid E stuck on.
Could somebody tell me where is this solenoid? I guess it's not the solenoid valve inside the transmission, which I have to take off the trans. fluid pan to gain access?? Is the solenoid near the end of the shift lever??
Could somebody direct me where to look first? Any hints are greatly appreciated. And, if it's the solenoid, how much would it cost? Thanks a lot!!!
I checked haynes manual and there are 4 shift solenoids for this tranny (A541E)-- no.1, no.2, SL and SLN. As for electrical problem with them. It seems P0753 is for No.1, P0758 is for No.2 and P1765 is for SLN. So I guess solenoid SL is also called solenoid E ????? (There is no code for SL.)
I'll check outside wiring first and see if there is anything wrong with the wires. If not I will look inside sometime later, don't have time to do it right away. If I keep driving like this, will I further damage anything?? It seems everything is normal, including gas mileage, if you don't look at that nasty yellow light. ))
However I couldn't imaging how a wire could be damaged inside the tranny. I changed the tranny fluid strainer 4 years ago but I'm sure I was very careful with the stuff inside.
Thanks again!!! And any input is welcome!!
As for the wire, It could get damaged. The heat inside the transmission is really hard on tranny parts. Heat is the main cause of tranny failure.
The check engine light goes off then back on in the past a couple of days. Now it's off again. I don't have a code reader to reset the code.
Something is wrong, maybe not serious. I'll try to find a time to do a painful wiring check.
I don't think the brand is all that important either (see ray_hi's post #765 above), but I use name brands like Havoline (Texaco), Mobil, or Formula Shell. However, be sure the oil is of the correct viscosity (5W-30 for the Camry 4-cylinder, 1997-2006).
I have a 98 2.2L I4 Camry. Yesterday when I drive it, the engine died and failed to start suddently. Two hours later, after AAA staff come to towl it, they found that the battery works fine and the engine work again. However after driving for around 30 meters on the road the engine died again.
Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing this problem?
Now I am very scared to get the car die on the road again.
Thanks so much!
Then it happened again at 102K miles -- blue smoke on cold startup (first thing in the morning). I didn't do anything about it this time. I sold the car at 111K miles and disclosed the problem.
I think it can be ignored as long as it only happens on a cold start. Plus, it shouldn't affect emissions testing.
I doubt the smoke treatment will be helpful.
Heading back to the dealer for the 4th time. Had a oil leak associated with the timing chain cover. After a tidy sum thought it was good as new...It has continued to leak all be it less each return trip....Anyone have a similar experience....It is still making a 2 to 3 inch circle every night.....I haven't seen any related discussion....Joe
I have 97 2.2 L engine. My car also died on the road yesterday. Can you please tell what was diagonosed with your car?
Thanks
Anand
I just registered to seek advice from you. This morning on my way to work, the engine revved up to 5500 rpm when I accelerated from a local road to a state highway. The engine kept running at 5000 rpm with loud noice if I maintained at 60 miles/hr. This has never happened before, I used to see it at 2900 rpm @ 60 miles/hr. I am wondering if you guys know what the problem might be? What need to be done to fix it? It appears that I have to visit an auto shop next week, but I want to get educated here before I visit the auto shop.
BTW, I drove a 2002 Toyota Camry with ~70k miles now. Thanks for your help!
Brian
Our 93 Camry Le 2.2 4cyl with 286,000 miles it driving us nuts. The problem is that whenever the car is placed in drive or reverse and you aren't moving, it vibrates bad, unless you increase the rpm's a little, but even if you rev the engine, it vibrates more than it used to. This is my dad's car and he is an ex mechanic and know pretty much aljl things about cars. He thinks that it might be the balance shafts in the engine, but this car has so many miles, i dont think it's worth it. The engine has never been replaced or had major work done. We know that it isn't misfiring or running rough.
Here is all of the repairs we have done to try to fix the problem : motor and tranny mounts, plug replacement, all fluids replaced(not for the prob. but just maintenence), and we put a bottle of gum out fuel system cleaner in, all to no avail.
This car is amazing. In its 13 year and 300,00 mile history, the only repairs we have done, all recent, were drive axles, water pump, radiator, a couple of batteries, front exhaust pipe, and battery cable clamps.
So what do you guys think??? THis is my car in 5 months and i dont want to give it up.
Thanks,
Brad
Someone told me that this issue is common with the 4cyl Camry and it is caused by a bad throttle position sensor.
I'm not sure this is the solution...maybe some other people can help troubleshoot.
Since you have changed all motor and tranny mounts, and if the job was done with reputable parts and labor them I hope we can assume that these items are not part of the problem. A lot of mechanics can tell you that there may be a few causes occuring at the same time to compound a vibration problem. Eliminating one, e.g. replacing the motor mounts and tranny mounts may have fixed some of the vibration. This will be true if the vibration is now less. If the vibration has not reduced then that was not the cause of vibration. Obviously you will need to look somewhere else.
Firstly:You may want to really rule out if there is no misfiring. The only to really rule this out is to do an exhaust emissions test. If your engine is misfiring due to faulty fuel injectors, throttle valve body, bad air intake manifold air pressure sensor, then it will show up in excessive exhaust carbon emisions(provided your catalytic converter is in good condition). If the car's emission is within specifications or even a little over the emission's specifications(considering the high mileage on your car) , then you can definitely rule out vibration caused by miss firing. Shop around to see how much an emissions test will cost at a reputable garage. Usually, it is affordable.
Secondly: I am in agreement with your Dad's diagnosis. Since the car is already at 300,000 miles, you or your Dad must have had the car's timing belt changed at least once or twice. Now, this again is a possiblity. That is whether the timing belt was done correctly. When the timing bely is replaced, the new timing belt must be installed with the counter-balancing shaft and cam and crank shafts in exact degrees of angle or position in relationship with each other. Hence, this is why the belt is called a timing belt. If replaced properly, it will ensure that the camshaft, countershaft abd crank shaft are in exact timing with each other. A lot of times, the counter balancing shaft may be off by a few degrees and the balancing of the whole engine is off. The amount of degree off will create a related amount of vibration. Again, I am not suggesting that anybody miss-installed the timing belt. I am merely expressing opinions of what may be the issues of the vibration.
Thirdly: If you are still using the factory installed timing belt and at 300,000 miles this has not been changed then all I can say is wow!.
I hope this sheds some light.
We just havent gotten to really looked at it yet deeply yet.
Thanks for the help
I initially thought it was tires, but no, then engine mounts, not those either, now i'm thinking about transmission but want to be sure before i spend the cash.
Got any ideas what the problem could be ?
It revs fine, and a full throttle standing start is also good up to the 50 mph point where it begins to shake about. Backing off the throttle stops the shaking, as does flicking it into neutral.
I'm not sure where to look next - advice greatly appreciated.
Thank you