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So have used 1.2 quarts in 1,500 miles. I have no idea why usage has slowed, am guessing it is warmer overnight, so engine has to work less when cold? I don't think there is too much of a warm-up period before hitting the road, or at least taking it easy for 2-3 minutes or so. Bringing it up and trying to explain just gets percieved as looking down on someone, so umm.... TMI, sorry.
1,575 miles, including a just-completed Interstate & Hwy trip across WA and back in fairly warm temps.
Used just slightly less than one quart. Like a tenth less, but it is less, and an improvement!
Thank You for any Suggestions and Opinions
Does it hum at the speed of the engine? So when you speed up the engine, the humming gets louder/faster? If it does, you can take off the accessory belt for a short period of time, which will determine whether the sound is from 'inside' the engine, or outside on one of the accessories.
The other time I hear a similar noise is when I am on the highway accelerating gradually in high gear at low rpms - say between 2,000 rpm and 2,300 rpm or lower. Once I get above 2,400 rpm (about 70 mph) the noise goes away. This humming is similar in pitch to that of the noise I hear when the engine is idleing, but the pitch rises with the rpm's.
Finally, the other time I hear the humming is at low speeds after I take my foot off the accelerator and I am coasting. At this time, the humming sounds exactly the same as when the car is idleing.
Thanks for replying to my message. I hope you can give me some insight into where this noise could be coming from.
Let the engine warm up so that the thermostat opens (get it up to operating temperature, but don't let it get real hot because you will be working on it). Take off the accessories serpentine belt - find the belt tensioner and there is usually a wrench attachment point where you put a large wrench on it and take the pressure off of the belt. Remove the belt from the pulley and slowly let loose of the tensioner as if it were going to put pressure back on the belt (but it's not there). Get the belt out of the way from the crankshaft pulley, so you can start the engine and not get anything caught.
When you start the engine, you will find that either the weird sound continues, or it's stopped. If it is still humming, then the source is either inside the engine, or it is something electrical which is still powered. Usually I find the noise has stopped, which you then know is one of the belt driven accessories or pulley's causing the problem. Turn the engine off (and you don't want to leave it running a long time anyhow as you don't want it to overheat). Now turn each of the pulley accessories by hand, and listen feel for whether they turn smoothly, or bind or make noise. When you find the noisy pulley, you know exactly what to fix. To put the belt back on, line up the belt back onto all the pulleys but the tensioner, apply the wrench to put pressure on the tensioner (allowing the belt to go back into place), slip the belt back on the pulley, and you're done.
This whole procedure is very easy to do, and doesn't take much time. It wouldn't surprise me if you had a bad pulley on the tensioner itself.
You just convinced me to always ride with whoever is test driving whatever I'm selling.
The sound that you are hearing is the resonance of the pipes in the exhaust system from the flow of the exhaust gases. The Honda Van had this problem in 2006 / 2007 on some vehicles. (The fix was to change a pipe in the exhaust system.) Has this vehicle had this problem since it was new? If the answer to this question is "NO," (and no part of the exhaust system has been replaced), check the condition of the exhaust components. You might have a leak in the exhaust system, or one of the component connections might be loose, so as such, it can vibrate with the speed of the engine.
Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades:
Any thoughts on this car and this problem?
Gas mileage, timing belt issues, dependability...127K miles
Lexus has issued an 8 year unlimited mileage goodwill repair for this condition
Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Air Fuel Ratio Sensors, Evaporative (EVAP) Emission system and the Engine. Failure of Air Fuel Ratio Sensors and EVAP system will cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. The common failure of the Engine is excessive oil usage caused by engine oil gelling. However, when proper maintenance schedules for oil changes are followed, oil gelling should not occur. The cost to repair the Air Fuel Ratio Sensors is estimated at $377.31 each for parts and $65.00 for labor. The cost for parts to repair the EVAP system can range from $88.00 - $350.00 while labor can range from $19.50 - $65.00. The cost to repair the Engine is estimated at $4,500.00 for parts and $1,514.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time
First of all the shop didn't give me an estimate before they went ahead and fixed the car. They first told me on the phone that it would cost $317. Then after I went to get my car they brought it down to 270. It was $90 for parts, and 3 hr labor totaling of 180. My friends told me I got ripped. Is that the case?
About 3 months ago I ordered a replacement engine for my '94 2.2 camry. The parts supplier promised me a '93 engine (completely compatible) with about 30.000 miles on it. Well, once the thing was 90% in, the mechanic discovered that the new engine had largely incompatible wiring, including a different ditributor cap and ignition coil, as well as some emissions components that the original engine did not. Being a clueless !@#$%#$, he assumed that what I'd gotten (I ordered the engine, not the mechanic, or I wouldn't have these problems) was a California-emissions engine.
Eventually he wired the thing all together, but ever since, the car's been eating twice as much gas as it should, and installing a new O2 sensor (this model only has one, not two) didn't make a difference. The fuel-air mixture is far too rich.
To make a long story short, I recently discovered that the real problem is that 1995 engines were tuned and wired differently to meet more stringent emissions standards in all 50 states, thus the electrical incompatibility. Does anyone know what I would need to do to make this Frankenstein monstrosity work correctly? Would installing a '95 ECU do the trick? Can the '94 ECU just be tricked in order to quit @#@$ing up the fuel mixture?
Thanks for any help.
a) When I crank the car and it is cold, there is a lot of engine noise. It sounds as though something is lose of something. There is usually a distinct sound when I hit the gas pedal and the car is cold. The sound seems to go away when the car is warmed up.
b) My second problem began the other day. When I'm at highway speeds and hit the gas to pass someone or something a funny noise occurs. Sometimes when the transmission downshifts, I hear a loud vibrating noise that doesn't last for long. I haven't heard this sound but a few times.
Im hoping that I can resolve these issues because I love my camry and want to keep it for many years/miles to come.
Regarding the vibrating noise.....this could be related to the above problem, or could be a different problem, perhaps with the CV joints. I'd fix the first problem, and see if that makes the symptoms of the 2nd problem go away.
Keep an eye out for recalls.
In 1997, my Chrysler minivan A604 transmission failed at 96,000 miles which was 20k miles beyond the powertrain warranty. This failure had been thoroughly documented in the automotive press as caused by a design defect and many people had been fully or partially compensated beyond the warranty period, including a friend of mine whose tranny failure at similar mileage just a few months before mine. Despite providing extensive documentation of this, I got bupkis. The only satisfaction I got was sending the last person who rejected my plea a picture of my wife standing beside her new Ford Explorer.
Good luck.
Carless in CA :sick:
I have a 1998 Camry LE 4 cyl with 180,000 miles on it. I had a problem recently with the engine in my car. I was driving my car fine and smooth until one fine day when my car suddenly started making a “clanking noise” inside the engine when I was on the road. The harder I pressed the gas pedal, the more noise it generated. And at one point,, the engine just died and the car stopped. I had to tow it to the garage, but after an hour’s gap, I was able to drive it (again, but with the same clanking noise) slowly into the garage from the tow truck. The technician says some “connecting rod” (connects to camshaft or something) inside the engine “broke” . He tried fixing it but concluded that the engine is shot and it’s not possible to fix it. He said my car is junk now and did not provide any more details about what caused it. I don’t know much about car parts, So, I am not sure whether this gives a clear picture of the problem. Here are my questions :
1. Is it possible to tell just by the symptoms mentioned above the engine is indeed “shot”?
2. If the engine is indeed shot, is it sensible to go for a rebuilt engine? Technician says Camry engines are expensive and it is not worth trying to go that route. He says I should rather go for a used car instead of trying to fix this car.
3. How much will it cost to fit in a rebuilt engine into the Camry (including parts and labor)?
Please advise. Thanks for your help in advance!!
I'd suggest looking for another car, as your Camry is not worth fixing with that many miles and years on it. A ballpark estimate for a replacement engine is $5,000 at least. You could certainly find a decent used car for that price.
But I'd get a second opinion before proceeding because your mechanic sounds too vague.
The car is currently parked at my home. Would it be possible for a mechanic to identify whether the engine is indeed toast by coming home and taking a look inside the hood? Or do I have to tow it back to a garage again to get the second opinion?
However, the fact that you indicate the engine was clacking like that is the sound of something drastic, and you should have stopped driving immediately to have any chance at all of minimizing the damage. Continuing to run the engine could make it substantially worse, and you may now have metal shavings and parts all over your engine. With the connecting rod broke, it could actually break thru the block or pan and dump oil and/or cooling fluid all over the place. You could have a real mess if not careful.
Your description and scenario has all of the symptoms of the engine being toasted. At that mileage, you got your money out of it. It's tired, put it out of it's misery in the giant scrap heap in the sky. You could see if the local high school wants it to let the kids tear the engine down.
My 2007 Camry CE with 2.4 4cyl engine makes a slight engine noise (knock) every morning when it's cold (around 18 to 28f ). It's noticeable during idle and mild acceleration, until the engine is fully warmed up. Then it's barely noticeable when the needle at the temp gauge is almost at the middle. It sounds like a valve noise or a slight knock. I know that the sound is not coming from any where outside the engine (i.e drive belts, alt, or a/c compressor.) Oil has been changed regularly since new at the dealer every 4-5k miles, then I switched to mobil 1 synthetic 5-20 since 32,000 miles (I still change the oil every 4-5k miles) because I have read in this forum about the sludge issues that toyota engines have encountered and wanted to have the extra protection that synthetic offers. It now has 46,000 miles.
I'm wondering if I should wait until the noise worsens so I could let the dealer hear it because they might just ignore me or say that it's "normal" when I go there especially when it only happens during cold starts and it would be fully warmed up when I get there. I have an extended warranty of up to 75,000 miles.
Hopefully somebody out there could give me a good advice and shed some light on this matter if you have experienced the same symptoms.
thanks,
tony
the engine performs o.k.expect for the above.
is anyone having a similar problem?
"I test drove the V6LE to see if the available power was more pronounced than the 4 cyl. Well it was, but it always had a delay in response (1-2 seconds). Most cars other cars that I have driven have an immediate response when I "jump on it". I depend on this response when I encounter a situation that requires it."
Has this been your experience as well? thanks!
to answer your question, i drive for the local toyota dealer delivering new cars for them. the 6 vs. 4 cyl is no comparision. the 6 has 262 horsepower 160 for the 4 cyl. the 6 is a rocket ship and i have not noticed any delay in response. if anyone can help with my problem i would be happy.
I don't know when your specific vehicle was built, and whether that TSB applies to your car or not. You can search the forums, it is discussed as well as copies of the TSB has been posted. If you go to your dealership and describe the lugging symptom from 35-45 mph, they can search their computers and tell you whether the TSB applies to your vehicle or not. It takes about 1/2 hour to reload the car computer with new software....runs great.
I need to know how to remove the crankshaft timing pulley on a 1992 Camry. I want to remove the oil pump so I can take out the oil seal which is stuck.
Here is what I tried:
- tried using the two screw driver method to remove the seal after taking off the face of the oil pump. I was told it should come out easy but it is stuck.
- now I am attempting to take off the oil pump and see if I can just knock out the seal that way
Note: I don't have the special tool to remove the crankshaft pulley.
Question: Is there a way to remove the pulley without the tool?
Or is there a better way to achieve my objective(getting out the oil seal)?
I am not a mechanic but am not afraid to learn.
Can someone help?
Thanks,
Patrick
I have a 2009 with about 20K miles, I have noticed the engine getting a little louder. It sounds like lifters to me. I am far from a mechanic and not 100% sure. My Mother has a 2008 Camry and her car is quieter to me. I guess I need to go to the dealer, but I know the answer already "that is normal"!
If someone knows of others and fixes, please pass it on.
Thanks
My 2003 camry 4 has that kind of noise but I do not have air intake so my machenic replace this part for me and the noise is gone.
It looks similar to this but i can't find the one for 4 cycl.
http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f/17040442/0904phr_05_z+gm_performance_parts_- - lsx_454+fuel_injected_intake_manifold.jpg
Found it here too: http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/toyota-camry/T9MGD2F66FRTCKKID
Intake manifold that is what they call it.
redcamry - Probably the best things you can do are small things such as replacing your sparkplugs; sparkplug wires; air filter; and replacing your thermostat, unless you know that these things have been within the last few years. These things will improve your performance back towards the level of power it had when new.
The feeling that the car is heavier with reduced acceleration with the A/C on is fairly normal. The air conditioner compressor uses noticable horsepower when it is operating.
At 246,000 mile, I would hesitate to go for any form of extreme measure to improve your performance - your engine is pretty well along in life... and just like an 80-year-old man, you can unintentionally kill it if you try to make it run too hard.
Frankly, a K&N air cleaner and/or a fancy exhaust are not worth the money they'd cost to put on this car. It's possible that your catalytic converter is somewhat clogged at this mileage, and that might be decreasing your performance somewhat, but they're expensive and I wouldn't replace it until you're forced into it.
Given the number of miles on your car, I'd just put enough money into the drive train to keep it safe and operational for a couple years, and I'd save the performance money for your next vehicle. It's not realistic to plan on this car going much more than 300,000 miles. At 246,000 it's already out-lasted most cars in America.
I checked a manual for timing belts and the book gives all Camry, Avalon, Solara/Camry engines the same from 94 to 2006. Also the Higlander and Sienna are fall into this engine catagory. The engine is the 3MZ. My 93 V6 Camry has the 3VZ.That was the last year for it with the 94 Camry getting the 1MZ, a slightly longer stroke. 3.27 versus 3.24 inches.making it a 183 cid versus 181.It's still a 3.0 liter.
The local library usually has the Motor manuals with all the engine specs. Our library is under renovation and the Reference books are being stored.
It seems you could use the block or heads and bolt over any water pump, alternator, and power steering accessories. I think Lexus is rear drive and a totally different animal.It might fit if you check the flywheel or use yours.
Search my blog: rear wheel drive corolla
Checking trucks for 92- 94 year the engine is the 3VZ . Its shows the same bore/stroke as the 93 Camry 3MZ. Although compression is less and the HP is 30 less for the truck engine.