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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What problem or post are you referencing from 2 years ago?
  • bobo23bobo23 Member Posts: 4
    The fuse for that light is 20 amp according to the Toyota Maint book.
  • bobo23bobo23 Member Posts: 4
    The Toyota manual shows that the Power windows come off the main power relay.which looks like it is in the door control itself. It shows it between the 30 amp fuse and the controls. It also shows a 10 amp fuse tied to the door lock control relay which also ties to the power main relay. This book is not real clear about the location of things, but I think it's all in the door switch.through the power main relay.. I'd attatch diagram, but don't know how.
  • kupffxkupffx Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone. This is my first time and i need tons of help. 2 Months ago my fuse started blowing in my car. this fuse controls my auto lights, windows, and gauges. so i changed the light and it worked fine for a month then it started again. I took it to a shop and they told me it was the speed sensor so i changed that and it worked for another month. now its doing it again but different. When i put the car in park or start it in park the fuse will blow every time. I thought it was a short in the speed sensor but i unplugged it and it still did the same thing. if i use my manual shift put it in N before i start the car and then D it works. But as long as the car is on and i put it in park the fuse will blow. Can someone help me figure out my problem i'm very stuck. Thank you
  • pathfind2003pathfind2003 Member Posts: 10
    I suspect you are blowing the fuse because your back up lights are part of the same circuit. There are wires that run by the drivers side trunk hinge and they are at a very common wear spot. If you open the trunk, and look at the bar for the hinge, you will see a bundle of wires running to the trunk lid, including your back up lights. They are probably some bare wires there. If there are, cut and repair the wires properly and try to put some extra "armour" around them. That may solve your problem. That might explain why your car won't blow in Neutral, because it doesn't shift past Reverse and activate (electrify) the back up lights. Let me know if that solves it.
  • dbentondbenton Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my daughter's 1989 Camry. Would the same diagnosis apply, and if so do you have the assembly diagram for that year? Thanks in advance.
  • james_srsmjames_srsm Member Posts: 2
    My friend has a 92' camry and it overheated. The car died and the horn started honking. We towed it back to the shop and topped off the fluids. Tried to start it again and horn honks when the key is turned on. Also it isn't getting any spark now but it turns over. Any suggestions?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Well just unplug the horn to stop that nuisance for now, and work on the main engine won't start problem.

    Since it appears you have a couple electrical problems going on, start with making sure the battery is good, sitting at about 13.5 to 14 volts, it's terminals are clean (with no corrosion) and tight.

    Let use know what you find the battery voltage to be. You're going to need a voltmeter to check some further voltages as well.

    And when it overheated, how long did they drive it, and how did it finally stop running?
  • james_srsmjames_srsm Member Posts: 2
    The car is turning over just fine. The batt is new. I even unpluged the alarm and it still honks. I've heard that the computer will do that so you'll have to send it in.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Unplug the wire, that is connecting the horn to the harness. Find the horn, follow the wire back.

    So this may be the alarm system, which is stopping the ignition from working.

    What kind of alarm system is this?
  • to0h0tt2cto0h0tt2c Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    Hi, I have a 2001 Camry, LE 4 cyl. and I accidently hit a pothole and my hazards and turn signals are not working. I had changed the relay swtich (which was burning hot when i took the old one out) and the fuse were all checked and working. I can hear a clicking sound when i push the hazard switch on the dash area above the vents but nothing is happening. :confuse:

    (also i have an afftermarket alarm system in the car, they have 2 fuse which are both ok and working, but when i click my alarm my lights appear to come on, both front and back so i dont think its a wire or something)

    Can anyone help?????? :cry:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Going to need to do a little investigation, to figure out what is working and not-working. Hopefully we can zero in on the problem.

    Do this at dusk (so you can clearly see the intensity of light bulbs), with someone to help you. One person in the vehicle, the second person outside looking at the bulbs.

    1.) Verify to start with, that there are no outside lights on.
    2.) Next put on the brake and hold it. Verify that the rear brake lights are on, and both are BRIGHT, and there are no lights on in the front. Then release brake.
    3.) Now lets check the parking lights. Turn on the parking lights, and verify that all four corners have the parking lights on, but they are DIM. Now turn lights off.
    4.) Put on the left turn signal. Tell me whether the left rear is: OFF, ON BRIGHT, ON DIM, or ON BRIGHT FLASHING. Let me also know what the front left signal is doing. Then verify that the right side lights (front and back) are both off.
    5.) Repeat the same process with the right side signal. Tell me what the lights are doing.
    6.) Now turn on the parking lights again, and then the left turn signal while the lights are on. Do the left lights show DIM, BRIGHT, or what?
  • kapilmkapilm Member Posts: 1
    Hi all!
    As ignorant as i may sound, i'll go ahead with my question... i have an '08 toyota camry LE... and ive figured out where the fusebox is... Now, my cigar lighter fuse has blown off and i already have a replacement... all i need to know is how to open the lid of the fuse box... a nice, detailed description would be really helpful, since i tried a lot and all i could reach till is the knee airbag! thanks again
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited August 2010
    There are two major fuse boxes, one is up in the engine compartment, the 2nd is under the dash by the drivers left knee. You should be dealing with the inside one.

    Get you head under the dash by the brake, looking upward. You'll see a black cover with a lip on it. The lip is on the forward edge (toward the front of the car) Pull down on the lip, and the cover should pop off. Replace the blown fuse.
  • ted97ted97 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE AN 2002 CAMRY AND THE CHECK ENGINE IS ON. THE CODE READS SENSORS BAD. HOW DO I FIX PROBLEM AT REASONABLE COST. :confuse:
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Hi Ted, I'm not sure what your exact question is. Are you asking for instructions on how to replace the oxygen sensors yourself? If so, here's a step-by-step guide: http://www.ehow.com/how_6016857_replace-toyota-camry-oxygen-sensor.html

    Of course you have to purchase the replacement parts first - this would be via your local auto parts store, or they can be found online at a wide range of prices - a quick search showed $50 - $120 each.

    If you're asking about getting it done at a shop, I'd suggest calling a local repair shop, or asking friends for recommendations on good shops. This is a very standard (rather than specialized) repair, so you don't HAVE to go to a Toyota dealership.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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  • brucelee4brucelee4 Member Posts: 1
    ok my fuse keeps blowing found the wore wire by in the trunk fixed it worked fine then i put everything back in went to reverse then the fuse blows again now i dont konw what the hell to do
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Go check those connections again, to make sure nothing is shorting to ground. Since you found uninsulated wires there, that is the most likely problem spot.

    Might also be a problem in the reverse light bulb itself, take the bulbs out and make sure the connection are clean and not touching anything, then put in reverse again to see if it blows. If no blow, then put the bulbs back in and try again.

    Might also be the reverse switch itself up on the transmission, you'd have to meter that to see if was shorting to ground or not.

    Those are the three areas I would look.
  • dbj460dbj460 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a used 03 Toyota Camry LE. Tonight, while my wife was driving home, she went over a bump. All of the interior lights went out for a second then came back on. When she got home, she had me get in the car. When I shut my door, the radio and other interior lights blacked out for a second then came back on. The same thing happened when I put on my seat belt. After driving around for two minutes, the problems magically went away. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated, especially those that are cheap in nature as I'm a poor college student.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check first that the battery is firmly held down, and that the connectors are tight. People mess around with the battery, and it could just be a loose wire/connection.

    Let me know the status, if need be I'll dig into the electrical schematics.
  • dcullottadcullotta Member Posts: 1
    every time i turn on the switch for the heater blower i blow a fuse on my 1995 toyota camry. How can I trace the short??
  • dbj460dbj460 Member Posts: 3
    That seems to have done the trick. The connectors weren't that tight on the terminals. I took them off, used a wire brush and and some fine sand paper and cleaned up the terminals and the inside of the connectors. I then made sure everything was nice and tight. If the problem happens again, I'll let you know. I also popped open both fuse box containers and made sure all the fuses were nice and secure. If I have more problems I'll let you know. Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    great.....glad it appears to have worked
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I suspect your problem is with the blower resistor, but if it's not that....then I would suspect the switch (to a lesser degree).

    The blower resistor is how they get lower speeds on the blower fan, it has wires which are a resistance and get hot, thereby dropping the voltage down to a lower voltage, so the fan turns slower.
  • mrafter7mrafter7 Member Posts: 1
    pretty stranger have a 94 and the same thing happen, along with tail lights and break lights. anyone help me?
  • dbj460dbj460 Member Posts: 3
    I unhooked my battery. I then took a wire brush and cleaned the battery terminals. Then, using the wire brush and some 400 grit sand paper (i wouldn't go too course, but i imagine 100 or 150 grit would be fine) and cleaned off the wire connectors (sorry for my lack of proper terminology). I then reconnected my battery, making sure the connections were really secure. I also opened up both fuse boxes (the one in the engine compartment as well as the one inside the cab of the car) and made sure all of the fuses were connected properly). Since I did all of that, I haven't had a problem. I would start by doing those as those are relatively easy things to do. Getting into the electrical schematics and chasing down a short in the system get messy and time consuming and are to be avoided unless necessary. The steps I took are the steps told me to when I posted my problem. Good luck. If they don't solve your problem, there are few here who could help you with the electrical schematics if you asked nicely.
  • alphawolffalphawolff Member Posts: 14
    I just bought a new 2011 Camry to replace the 2003 with a blown head gasket. Much to my surprise, the bare bones camry I purchased does not come with keyless entry but of course is offered as an option which I did not get.

    I was hoping that I could use the module and the fob from the 2003 on the 2011. ideally this would be plug and play. Does anyone know where this module is located on the 2003? Does anyone know where it "plugs in" on the 2011.

    Any other insight would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's not gonna happen. I'd suggest you have a remote locking module installed at a car audio shop. There are inexpensive ones available for maybe $150, like from Viper Alarm. This gives you a separate little keypad that you put on your keychain with your regular key.
  • richmcrichmc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Camry, the passanger side tail lights do not come on. The driver side works fine. When ever I turn my right blinker on flashes twice as fast as when I turn the left on. Am I looking at wiring or fuse issue? Help please.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    You have a bad bulb, most likely rear passenger side, but could be front passenger side if it's not the rear..
  • dominassiondominassion Member Posts: 5
    I replaced a tail light bulb and the related fuse on my 97 camry and the right signal is affected. When headlights are on the right rear light will stay lit. When the headlights are off all the lights will be blinking like they would in an emergency situation. The left hand signal works perfectly.
    Help please.
    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You have a bad dual filament bulb.

    A dual filament bulb has two filaments in it, a bright one (for brake lights and/or front turn signal) and a dim filament (for when your headlights are on).

    If one of those filaments breaks, it typically will lay over and touch the 2nd filament, thereby powering the other circuit.

    So the symptom you are seeing is this. You put on the right turn signal, and the 'bright' filament is energized on the right side. That filament touches the parking light filament, and thru that circuit thee voltage is now fed to the dim circuit on all four corners.

    If you are able to look closely at the filaments in the bulb while they are working, you will see the problem.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited October 2010
    That "short" between the two circuits sometimes happens inside the socket, socket contacts, and even on the base of the bulb. As you push/twist the bulb into the sockets the twisting motion forces the socket contacts together.
  • seattletwodogsseattletwodogs Member Posts: 15
    For several weeks the red "BRAKE" system warning light has gone on daily. It consistently goes on a few minutes after car initially driven in AM. The frequency of light going on diminishes or ceases as the car is driven more throughout the day.

    Turning the steering wheel to the left seems to trigger the dashlight. It sometimes disappears when the wheel is turned to the right, the brakes are applied or the car is pulled over and the parking brake is applied and released.

    The brakes are working fine. Car has 100,000 miles and I am the initial owner.

    Thank you to all who take the time to read and respond to this post.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited October 2010
    Check your brake fluid level first thing and if low, pull the wheels off and see what's going on with the brake calipers and/or linings.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Your brake pads are probably worn, and your brake fluid low because of that.

    You're probably long overdue for a brake job, including brake fluid flush.
  • dominassiondominassion Member Posts: 5
    Thanks so much. I'm going to check and get back yo you.
  • dominassiondominassion Member Posts: 5
    kiawah, all bulbs are OK.
    What next?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Then you may have corrosion on the bulb socket.

    Take each bulb out, and work on them one by one. Take the bulb out, and with a piece of sandpaper lightly sand the brass on each bulb base, as well as the silver contact points on the bottom. You are looking to get a clean contact.

    Next roll up a piece of sandpaper like a cylinder, and put that into each socket and clean that as well. Blow air in the socket to get all the dust particles out.

    Now on a dual filament bulb, if will have two silver contacts on the bottom, with the ground being made thru the brass side. Look carefully at the lugs on the bulb, you will notice on a dual filament bulb that they are at different 'depths' up the side of the brass base. If you look in the socket, you will see the grooves where those lugs engage, and one groove is deeper than the other. Place the bulb back into the socket, so that the deep lug is correctly positioned into the deep groove.

    Now power on the bulbs headlights, and see that the low output filament is lit. Now try the brake, and you should see the high output filament light. You need to look real close and actually see which filament is lit.

    Now move on to the next bulb, and go all the way around the car until you have cleaned and checked each bulb.

    Normally you will find a broken bulb filament is shorting out to the other filament. To a lesser degree, you may find corrosion in the socket which is causing the short between the two circuits.
  • dominassiondominassion Member Posts: 5
    the signal light is the one that stays lit and does not flash at all when head lights are on. When head lights are off the left signal light can now flash but it makes all other lights fhash (front and back) as well as if I have put the emergency flashing lights.
    I hope this clarifies the misunderstanding.
    I appreciates your suggestions
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    Your symptoms are exactly the symptoms one would expect, with a bad bulb where the filaments are crossed.

    I still believe you have a bad bulb, and aren't looking closely enough at the filaments to see the problem.

    What I'm betting is happening with a bad bulb, is that when you turn on the turn signal, the power goes thru the light switch to the flasher, to the bright filament of the bad bulb. There it shorts over to the 2nd filament, thereby powering the 4 corners and they all flash (should be dimmer than a normal flash). The flashing period might be faster than normal, or it might be the same....it depends on the type of flasher that is in your vehicle. Cheap flasher units would end up flashing faster. Heavy duty flashers that are made to handle vehicles with trailers, would flash with the same timing.

    In your other situation with the headlights ON, the dimmer filament is lit on all bulbs, and in the bad bulb the filament is now feeding over to the flasher circuit. I have to digress a little to explain how the flasher module itself works, and this might be a little confusing to you. It's a little can like device, that monitors the current in the turn signal circuit. When it lets enough current thru, it turns off, which opens the circuit, and your turn signal bulbs turn off. It cools a little, closes again, turns the turn signal bulbs on, which makes the bulbs flash.

    Now the reason it doesn't flash when your headlights are on, is because there is voltage bleed from the headlight circuit, thru the bad bulb, over onto the flasher circuit bulbs. Because of that, there isn't enough current drawn thru the flasher, to allow it to flash. The result, the turn signal bulb turns on bright, but never flashes correctly.

    Please go back and recheck those dual filament bulbs. You have to look at the bulb itself, where you are looking at the two filament wires inside the bulbs, and noting that one of those filaments is a bright filament, one is a dim filament, and they cannot in anyway touch each other.

    It is possible that socket corrosion can also cause this problem, but it is much more likely a bad filament in a bulb.
  • seattletwodogsseattletwodogs Member Posts: 15
    After adding a little brake fluid the brake warning light stopped appearing.

    Next week I'll be able to have the brakes checked out and will report back. Last complete brake job was at 64,000 miles. Car is now at 102,000 miles.
  • inquisitivemaninquisitiveman Member Posts: 4
    My dad took his 97' Camry in a few years ago to get his tires rotated. After it was done, he drove home and the ABS light came on. It has stayed on ever since. He never went back to ask them why it came on. They must have done something. I didn't know the car had ABS until this light came on. Anyway, forward to now, he is giving this car to me since he got a new car. I know the brakes are good and recently that the pads were replaced. I don't want to pay a mechanic extra $$ each year for him to pass the car's inspection which my dad did since the light came on. Is there a way to turn or disable this light off myself? Or maybe when i go get it rotated again, i will ask a mechanic to clean it since i've heard some ABS sensors are just dirty and needs a good old cleaning. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well the easiest time to have figured out what happened was years ago. The problem might have been caused by the tire rotation, or it may only have been a coincidence.

    Why didn't the mechanic figure out the problem, when they put new pads on? Did they flush and refill the brake fluid, or ignore that as well?
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Ahhhhhhh! You know I have had scant few issues with my 02 Camry. An o2 chip went under warranty. A gasket job when I noticed a puff of white smoke out the pipe...I was not too thrilled with that one. A door lock repair for a sticky lock which I did not think much about but was told would have cost $600! These were under all my 7/75K warranty. Well I now have 88K and my starter went…$350 and now another door lock is sticking. They told me last time I was lucky I had the warranty because it was a $600 repair. I am NOT getting it fixed this time at that cost.

    Anyone familiar with this problem. The lock sticks. It opens when it wants to. Today its stuck. It rained last night...wonder if that has something to do with it. I recall someone telling me the door guts on Camry's were no adaqautely sealed from weather...

    When I click OPEN on the fob you hear the normal unlock sound and all doors unlock except the passenger rear. You hear a secondary click but the lock does not open (or close) .There are a lot of posts on the internet but not many solutions.

    Anyone know where you get something like this fixed by a non dealer? Sure the dealer is better but they get $225 just to take the door apart and put it back together. I just saw a video on youtube…they guy had the door apart in less than 10 miniutes…they wonder why folks do not want to go to the dealer. Any ideas…thoughts?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    If you have a video of someone taking the door apart, why don't you consider doing the repair yourself?

    Just be careful not to damage the interior door panel (or get dirt/grease on it), or cut/pinch yourself on the sharp metal edges inside the door. If the problem turns out to not be the part you bought for replacement, you can save it for the next time or sell it on ebay as used.

    That's a reasonable repair to tackle for a handy do-it yourself-er. Haven't had to do our Toyota, but I've done a number of our previous vehicles (a Chrysler twice, couple different Chev's). As long as you don't damage other parts, or cut yourself, you should be able to beat the price you have. Shouldn't take you more than a couple hours, plus parts running time.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    tempted but I am unsure what could be wrong, what the part costs and to be honest I am a bit intimated by electronics....
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    That's the value you're getting then, for your $225. Somebody with the expertise and knowledge to diagnose the problem, and fix it.

    If you have the skills, then you can save some money by doing it yourself. If you don't, then you pay for someone who does.....and use your expertise/time making money in whatever business/profession you are in.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Not quite, they charge $225 to take the door apart then must dx the problem then must get the part. I am paying $80 and hour to dx the problem and and then stuck with their inflated parts costs. The fact they charge 2.5 hours of labort for 20 minutes work taking the door apart and putting it back together just adds insult to injury.

    My point is I am willing to pay for an expert just not an expert who lies about the time it takes and doubles the price of the parts. The trick is finding that person...which is was what I was asking. Anyone know of a company or such that might be an alternative to the dealer; or a more specific how to on this fix?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the dealer is paying a mechanic very good money to do the job quickly and correctly. The mechanic can't spend 4 hours doing this job or he'd be fired no doubt. Slow and methodical is not rewarded in this business. The dealer has enormous overhead and the technicians have to "beat the clock" whenever they can.

    Everything looks easy if you know how. Our only alternatives when dealing with our modern, complicated cars are:

    1. Do the learning curve and figure out how to fix it ourselves, buying the information and tools we need

    2. Pay an independent shop to do it for us, counting on their (somewhat) lower labor rates to ease the pain.

    3. Pay the dealer whatever it costs to do it fast and correctly and with a warranty on parts and labor.

    As for the parts, if no aftermarket parts exist, then Toyota is the only source, and you know what that means. It's either them or a wrecking yard to find the part.
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