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Since it appears you have a couple electrical problems going on, start with making sure the battery is good, sitting at about 13.5 to 14 volts, it's terminals are clean (with no corrosion) and tight.
Let use know what you find the battery voltage to be. You're going to need a voltmeter to check some further voltages as well.
And when it overheated, how long did they drive it, and how did it finally stop running?
So this may be the alarm system, which is stopping the ignition from working.
What kind of alarm system is this?
(also i have an afftermarket alarm system in the car, they have 2 fuse which are both ok and working, but when i click my alarm my lights appear to come on, both front and back so i dont think its a wire or something)
Can anyone help??????
Do this at dusk (so you can clearly see the intensity of light bulbs), with someone to help you. One person in the vehicle, the second person outside looking at the bulbs.
1.) Verify to start with, that there are no outside lights on.
2.) Next put on the brake and hold it. Verify that the rear brake lights are on, and both are BRIGHT, and there are no lights on in the front. Then release brake.
3.) Now lets check the parking lights. Turn on the parking lights, and verify that all four corners have the parking lights on, but they are DIM. Now turn lights off.
4.) Put on the left turn signal. Tell me whether the left rear is: OFF, ON BRIGHT, ON DIM, or ON BRIGHT FLASHING. Let me also know what the front left signal is doing. Then verify that the right side lights (front and back) are both off.
5.) Repeat the same process with the right side signal. Tell me what the lights are doing.
6.) Now turn on the parking lights again, and then the left turn signal while the lights are on. Do the left lights show DIM, BRIGHT, or what?
As ignorant as i may sound, i'll go ahead with my question... i have an '08 toyota camry LE... and ive figured out where the fusebox is... Now, my cigar lighter fuse has blown off and i already have a replacement... all i need to know is how to open the lid of the fuse box... a nice, detailed description would be really helpful, since i tried a lot and all i could reach till is the knee airbag! thanks again
Get you head under the dash by the brake, looking upward. You'll see a black cover with a lip on it. The lip is on the forward edge (toward the front of the car) Pull down on the lip, and the cover should pop off. Replace the blown fuse.
Of course you have to purchase the replacement parts first - this would be via your local auto parts store, or they can be found online at a wide range of prices - a quick search showed $50 - $120 each.
If you're asking about getting it done at a shop, I'd suggest calling a local repair shop, or asking friends for recommendations on good shops. This is a very standard (rather than specialized) repair, so you don't HAVE to go to a Toyota dealership.
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Might also be a problem in the reverse light bulb itself, take the bulbs out and make sure the connection are clean and not touching anything, then put in reverse again to see if it blows. If no blow, then put the bulbs back in and try again.
Might also be the reverse switch itself up on the transmission, you'd have to meter that to see if was shorting to ground or not.
Those are the three areas I would look.
Let me know the status, if need be I'll dig into the electrical schematics.
The blower resistor is how they get lower speeds on the blower fan, it has wires which are a resistance and get hot, thereby dropping the voltage down to a lower voltage, so the fan turns slower.
I was hoping that I could use the module and the fob from the 2003 on the 2011. ideally this would be plug and play. Does anyone know where this module is located on the 2003? Does anyone know where it "plugs in" on the 2011.
Any other insight would be appreciated.
Thanks
Help please.
Thanks
A dual filament bulb has two filaments in it, a bright one (for brake lights and/or front turn signal) and a dim filament (for when your headlights are on).
If one of those filaments breaks, it typically will lay over and touch the 2nd filament, thereby powering the other circuit.
So the symptom you are seeing is this. You put on the right turn signal, and the 'bright' filament is energized on the right side. That filament touches the parking light filament, and thru that circuit thee voltage is now fed to the dim circuit on all four corners.
If you are able to look closely at the filaments in the bulb while they are working, you will see the problem.
Turning the steering wheel to the left seems to trigger the dashlight. It sometimes disappears when the wheel is turned to the right, the brakes are applied or the car is pulled over and the parking brake is applied and released.
The brakes are working fine. Car has 100,000 miles and I am the initial owner.
Thank you to all who take the time to read and respond to this post.
You're probably long overdue for a brake job, including brake fluid flush.
What next?
Take each bulb out, and work on them one by one. Take the bulb out, and with a piece of sandpaper lightly sand the brass on each bulb base, as well as the silver contact points on the bottom. You are looking to get a clean contact.
Next roll up a piece of sandpaper like a cylinder, and put that into each socket and clean that as well. Blow air in the socket to get all the dust particles out.
Now on a dual filament bulb, if will have two silver contacts on the bottom, with the ground being made thru the brass side. Look carefully at the lugs on the bulb, you will notice on a dual filament bulb that they are at different 'depths' up the side of the brass base. If you look in the socket, you will see the grooves where those lugs engage, and one groove is deeper than the other. Place the bulb back into the socket, so that the deep lug is correctly positioned into the deep groove.
Now power on the bulbs headlights, and see that the low output filament is lit. Now try the brake, and you should see the high output filament light. You need to look real close and actually see which filament is lit.
Now move on to the next bulb, and go all the way around the car until you have cleaned and checked each bulb.
Normally you will find a broken bulb filament is shorting out to the other filament. To a lesser degree, you may find corrosion in the socket which is causing the short between the two circuits.
I hope this clarifies the misunderstanding.
I appreciates your suggestions
I still believe you have a bad bulb, and aren't looking closely enough at the filaments to see the problem.
What I'm betting is happening with a bad bulb, is that when you turn on the turn signal, the power goes thru the light switch to the flasher, to the bright filament of the bad bulb. There it shorts over to the 2nd filament, thereby powering the 4 corners and they all flash (should be dimmer than a normal flash). The flashing period might be faster than normal, or it might be the same....it depends on the type of flasher that is in your vehicle. Cheap flasher units would end up flashing faster. Heavy duty flashers that are made to handle vehicles with trailers, would flash with the same timing.
In your other situation with the headlights ON, the dimmer filament is lit on all bulbs, and in the bad bulb the filament is now feeding over to the flasher circuit. I have to digress a little to explain how the flasher module itself works, and this might be a little confusing to you. It's a little can like device, that monitors the current in the turn signal circuit. When it lets enough current thru, it turns off, which opens the circuit, and your turn signal bulbs turn off. It cools a little, closes again, turns the turn signal bulbs on, which makes the bulbs flash.
Now the reason it doesn't flash when your headlights are on, is because there is voltage bleed from the headlight circuit, thru the bad bulb, over onto the flasher circuit bulbs. Because of that, there isn't enough current drawn thru the flasher, to allow it to flash. The result, the turn signal bulb turns on bright, but never flashes correctly.
Please go back and recheck those dual filament bulbs. You have to look at the bulb itself, where you are looking at the two filament wires inside the bulbs, and noting that one of those filaments is a bright filament, one is a dim filament, and they cannot in anyway touch each other.
It is possible that socket corrosion can also cause this problem, but it is much more likely a bad filament in a bulb.
Next week I'll be able to have the brakes checked out and will report back. Last complete brake job was at 64,000 miles. Car is now at 102,000 miles.
Why didn't the mechanic figure out the problem, when they put new pads on? Did they flush and refill the brake fluid, or ignore that as well?
Anyone familiar with this problem. The lock sticks. It opens when it wants to. Today its stuck. It rained last night...wonder if that has something to do with it. I recall someone telling me the door guts on Camry's were no adaqautely sealed from weather...
When I click OPEN on the fob you hear the normal unlock sound and all doors unlock except the passenger rear. You hear a secondary click but the lock does not open (or close) .There are a lot of posts on the internet but not many solutions.
Anyone know where you get something like this fixed by a non dealer? Sure the dealer is better but they get $225 just to take the door apart and put it back together. I just saw a video on youtube they guy had the door apart in less than 10 miniutes they wonder why folks do not want to go to the dealer. Any ideas thoughts?
Just be careful not to damage the interior door panel (or get dirt/grease on it), or cut/pinch yourself on the sharp metal edges inside the door. If the problem turns out to not be the part you bought for replacement, you can save it for the next time or sell it on ebay as used.
That's a reasonable repair to tackle for a handy do-it yourself-er. Haven't had to do our Toyota, but I've done a number of our previous vehicles (a Chrysler twice, couple different Chev's). As long as you don't damage other parts, or cut yourself, you should be able to beat the price you have. Shouldn't take you more than a couple hours, plus parts running time.
If you have the skills, then you can save some money by doing it yourself. If you don't, then you pay for someone who does.....and use your expertise/time making money in whatever business/profession you are in.
My point is I am willing to pay for an expert just not an expert who lies about the time it takes and doubles the price of the parts. The trick is finding that person...which is was what I was asking. Anyone know of a company or such that might be an alternative to the dealer; or a more specific how to on this fix?
Everything looks easy if you know how. Our only alternatives when dealing with our modern, complicated cars are:
1. Do the learning curve and figure out how to fix it ourselves, buying the information and tools we need
2. Pay an independent shop to do it for us, counting on their (somewhat) lower labor rates to ease the pain.
3. Pay the dealer whatever it costs to do it fast and correctly and with a warranty on parts and labor.
As for the parts, if no aftermarket parts exist, then Toyota is the only source, and you know what that means. It's either them or a wrecking yard to find the part.