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Thanks
FuseView
Check the 30Amp Power Fuse, upper right corner
Let us know how you make out...thanks
A prudent thing to do is to take your vehicle to an autoparts store (AutoZone, PepBoys, etc), as they all do a free battery and alternator check for you. They'll test the vehicle under load, to see that the battery and alternator are working. They may also notice whether you have any corrosion on the battery terminals.
Once you are sure that you have clean power, you can then begin solving the other problems (if they still exist)
Check for a defective relay under the dash on the driver side. Had almost the same problem on our 2007 Camry. I could start the car but had no power to the shift lock,windows,heater fan,wipers etc. It was a realy cold day.
Dealer told me this relay causes problems in cold(-20C)weather and replacd it this spring with a re-designed one. Have also heard about loss of electric power in hot weather.
Your relay might be just worn out.
HJU
With a new battery, I'm assuming you have cleaned both of the battery cable connections and their is no corrosion in either of those cables. Since you have no starter engagement, you have to start there. When you turn the key to the start position, you should get power to the solenoid. Get a voltmeter on the solenoid and have someone turn the key, no 13v figure out why the key switch isn't getting you power. If you have 13v at the solenoid, then you should hear the solenoid engage, which should then provide the power to the starter motor. If you hear the solenoid engage but the starter motor doesn't turn, check for corrosion and power on the +side of the cable coming from the battery. No power, your battery cable is bad. Power on your starter but it doesn't spin, then the starter motor is bad (assuming the battery ground cable to the engine is good with no corrosion at the engine side as well).
Check the temperature sensor, the wire connection to the temperature sensor, or the gauge itself.
My fiancee has a 1992 Automatic Camry with about 180K miles on it. Every few months, it stalls out, and the only way she can drive the car is if she uses both the gas and brake pedals at the same time. Her mechanic said its an electrical problem and would cost about $2000 to fix. However, it seems to go away on its own after a few days. The last time it happened, she called the mechanic and he said that its just getting old and may be near the end of its life, but I don't believe that's a good answer, so I'm hoping someone here has a better idea.
This car also blows hot air all the time, even with the fan off. It comes from under the driver's seat. Any tips on what this might be would help too, as while the car is toasty warm and nice in the winter, its brutal in the summer!
I went through and changed out all fusible link blocks (Including the 80 amp bolt in one) even though they all had good continuity. The Neg cable for the battery is brand new. The positive cable I cleaned up really well even though it was fine. I now have absolutely NO power at all in the car. I bought and installed a new ignition switch in the steering column. I was able to get a little power for a couple minutes. As soon as I tried to start it, I lost all juice. The battery is new, the cables are great, the ignition switch is new. I purchased a starter relay, but I am unable to locate it to replace it. The Haynes manual says for an 88 it is in the top of the fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side. I checked, my 89 has no provision for one there. Any ideas? I am at a complete loss here. I will be taking tomorrow off and going through everything I can on it. I checked every fuse and circuit breaker and could find absolutely NOTHING wrong, all had perfect continuity. I thought maybe the starter? So, I removed it, hooked up a set of jumper cables. Neg to battery neg, other end to starter bolt ear, and pos to battery and terminal post. I then used a heavy gauge wire to jump from hot to start terminal. The starter kicks out and spins up! So, the starter is fine.
To let you in on a little background, when I got the car, the alternator was shot. BADLY! The windings were shorted out and burned up. So, I took it and had it rebuilt at a shop. I put it on, and put a new battery in. I started it right up. No problems. The lights warning indicator on the dash was on though. I looked them over, and found nothing wrong. So, I took it for a short test drive. I came back and parked it because the lower control arm bushings were shot badly too. I took the passengers side off, and replaced the bushings, and put it back on. Tried to start it, and bam! Dead battery. I charged it, and tried again to start it. I would turn the key on, the door beeper would chime, until I turned it to "start". Then everything would go dead. After a minute, the beeper would come back on slowly and faintly. After about 8 beeps, it would be normal loudness. If I tried to start, it would go dead again. At this point, I have NO power. Not even to headlights or anything normally hot in off key position. At this point, I think either a complete good wiring harness from another car, or a stick of dynamite are in order. Lol. Please give me your insight?
Check your carspace email. Access it via link on upper right hand corner.
Sounds like you have zero'd in on the ground problem though, which is the most important at this point in time.
when coming home from work, a distance of 30
miles, it blows again. The radio was on and I
had a cellphone adapter plugged in without the
phone being attached.Any ideas. I would think
that with an average short the fuse would blow
immediately.
Thanks,
James
Start metering at the drivers switch, you know you have power feeding the master switch unit. Check to see if you also have power on the RRear switch when you move the switch up and down. If you have good power there, then move to the RR door switch and meter there. You should see the same power when you use the drivers main switch. If you have power, then you know the wiring is good back to the door, and the problem is either in the RR switch or the regulator.
I'm out of town this week and don't have access to the electrical schematics here.....but if you don't find the problem by Monday then I'll jump back in to help.
Check your carspace email, you have mail! It's the upper right corner of your screen if you haven't accessed before.
The Rear Light Failure light on my 1998 Camry (4 cyl) came on last night. It seems the blinkers work and the break lights work. The parking lights do not work - on both sides. The warning light seem to come on when I turn on the parking light (not when I hit the break).
Reading through the old posts, it seems it could be:
1 - bulb
2 - relay
3 - fuse
I am trying to figure it out myself. Without any instruments, what can I do to figure it out?
If it is the bulb, would both sides stop working at the same time? (Or, it is designed so one is out and the other one stops too?)
How much time would a dealer charge to replace it? Or, is this something I should try myself?
Should I be concerned this is the beginning of some bigger electrical problem? (9 years, this is the 2nd problem - the first one was the environmental control system. Wish the software we have is this good :-))
Thanks.
I used needlenose pliers and pried the fingers open that hold the fusible link.
then I bought an inline fuse holder from radio shack and I put in a FAST-blow 10amp fuse. I don't plan to use more than 10amps in that socket, and the main circuit fuse is 15 amps so I figured I was safe.
I DO, however, need to ADD a 12v power socket somewhere under my dash for a 20-amp connection (with higher guage wire) so I can run my 12v to 120v converter, which draws as much as 17amps. (that's how I blew the socket in the first place. I didn't check the rating on the converter!)
The A/C rotary control only high speed is working the low , medium etc are not working. A/C is working but the air blower rotary switch is not working. Can any one has the same problem? Please let me know if it is a small fix or do I need to replace entire panel with all controls?
Thanks
BlowerResitor
BlowerElec
The way this circuit works, is that resistors are placed in series with the fan motor, which has an effect of slowing down the fan motor. When the resistor bank fails, then you loose the lower speeds. The high speed bypasses the resistor and puts the full voltage to the motor.
Thanks
This problem could be the fuse, the switch, wiper motor, etc. But the fuse is the obvious place to start.
The fuse that handles the Backup lights is a 10Amp fuse called Gauge.
Can you verify that your wipers and turn signals work.