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You have a fuse box by your left knee, has both a front and a back side.
The circuit for the backup lights, is fed from a bus that also feeds your windshield wipers. So since we know the windshield wipers work, we know there is power on that bus, and we know the fuse you changed/checked for the backup lights should have power.
The backup lights are turned on, by a switch on the transmission (detecting that the transmission is in R). Then the power goes back to the rear and feeds the bulbs. So assuming that you have checked the bulbs, then the most likely problem is either the switch, or the wiring where it bends up and down every time you open your trunk (flexing back and forth over the years can cause the wires to break internally).
Find the reverse sensing switch on the transmission, and measure the voltage on the lugs. With the transmission in reverse, you should have 13+ volts on both lugs. Alternatively, you can take the switch out, and check the continuity with the Ohm setting of the multimeter.
Troubleshooting a 10 year old car, in another country, via the internet, thru a third party, on a loaned vehicle, with no tools, and no vehicle history or knowledge............
Don't believe I could realistically be of any value, perhaps others can.
I pulled out my fuse box yesterday and can't seem to find anything MARKED (windows\locks) - can someone tell me which fuse would cover the windows\locks??? 3 windows are left in the down position
Look in the lower left kick panel, it's in a block called R/B No 1. On the top of that block is the Turnsignal flasher, in the 2nd row down is the PowerCB on the left, and a starter relay on the right.
If you have trouble finding, turn on the turn signal and follow your ears to the clicking.
Sent an email to you with a couple pictures. Check your carspace email. Go to your mailbox, upper right hand corner.
If I can't get these windows up, what should I use to COVER them??? I don't have the money to take it to a mechanic just now.
Thanks for all of your help.
You access it via the mailbox at the top of forum screen.
If you got to your mail, and got my note okay, but not the attachments........then if you want I will send to an external email address. Send me your email to kiawah@carspace.com
If you can't get the windows up, go buy a plastic tarp at any homesupply store or big box.
Thanks...Michelle
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WOOHOO - IT'S ALL WORKING NOW!!!! - I used the fuse from the 'shoulder belt' to get my windows rolled up - I will purchase a 30A fuse at my leisure now that I have those windows rolled up...
AGAIN, THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE.
Regards,
Michelle
I found the 100A-ALT under the hood of the car but have not been able to find the right 30A.
Under the hood there are three 30A fuses labeled as follows
30A-SPA
30A-RDI
30A-CDS FR-DEF
On the interior the fuses are as follows:
ECU-IG 15A
GAUGE 10A
STOP 15A
SEAT HTR 15A
WIPER 20A
TURN 7.5A
IGN 7.5A
CIG/RADIO 15A
MIR.HTR 10A
TAIL 15A
SRS 7.5A
/(Show blank but ther is a fuse in this spot.)
Thank you for any advice.
Sissyandty
I'm sure I am NOT the one to answer this question but funny thing was the FUSE I ended swapping out was NOT one of those colored fuses in the fuse box - this fuse was silver and round with two prongs, it was located to the RIGHT side of the actual fuse box that's in the kick panel - right next to the bright yellow starter relay (this is LABELED) on the LEFT...so BETWEEN the fuse box & the starter relay fuse.
I didn't have to buy a NEW fuse as I ended up pushing in the little reset button on that fuse and reinstalled it...everything is working now.
kiawah was VERY HELPFUL during my troubleshooting experience.
Please note, my car is a 1990 camry so I am not sure if it is RELEVANT to your 1994 camry (???)...
Thanks...Michelle
On the interior fuse box where you list the ECU-15A, Gauge-10Amp, etc......look way over on the right edge. There is a 30Amp Power fuse (just a bit above an imaginary horizontal line drawn from the ECU fuse), and underneath it is a 40Amp Defog fuse. It's the top one you want to check out.
Good luck
What is the general fix for this type of issue.
Thanks again.
:sick:
Unfortunately, the fix for this is to replace the defective wire, with a new one. You don't have to run it fuse to switch, you can just splice in a new piece that runs between the jamb and the door.
When I do this, I do the splicing inside the door, and inside the jamb. Sometimes it's hard to know exactly where the defect is in the cable that is flexing (in between the door and the jamb), so replacing the whole thing from where you know the wire is good and not flexing...is the best fix. Be sure to use stranded wire, which permits flexing without breaking more than a solid core wire would, and capable to handle 30Amps.
You need to be fairly comfortable with tools and soldering iron to do this job.
Susan
You checked the 20A wiper fuse supposedly at Autozone, but verify that you have power to your wiper stalk on the steering wheel by turning on the washer. If the washer sprays fluid on the windshield, then you know that the fuse is indeed okay and you have power to the wiper switch.
Assuming you do have power as above, then the way to figure out if it is the switch or the motor that is the problem, is that you need to measure the voltage of the circuit at the wiper motor connector, with the switch in the on positions. If you have 13 volts at the connectors, then your switch is probably okay, and the wiper motor is bad. If you don't have power at the connector when the switch is in the on position, then your switch is bad.
If you know zero about cars and haven't done any work on them before, this would probably not be the time to start. But at least you know what a shop should be checking, and can find out an estimate a head of time approximately how much it should cost for repair.
Good luck.
I'm at a loss. :confuse:
In the junction box, it is right near the Dome Fuse.
I think your power outlet is also not working.
Let me know if you find this blown or not.
Thanks for any help you can offer. :confuse:
The power runs thru AM1, then to the ignition switch accessories position, then to power three things.
- The 15A cigarette fuse and circuit (which is your cigarette lighter, also feeds the clock, and also feeds your mirrors...none of this you say works.
- The 15A power outlet, which you claim works.
- and a 7.5A rad fuse.
Because you indicate the power outlet works, then that tells you that AM1 and the ignition switch are okay. So the problem suspect is that 15A cig fuse. Can you swap it out or replace it.
If you swap it and it still doesn't work, then get your digital voltmeter, pull the fuse again, and check the voltage on the pins in the junction block. Make sure you are getting 13volts on one of the pins (one of the pins would connect upstream to the switch and AM1, one of the pins would connect downstream to the cigarette lighter and clock). Trying to verify that you do indeed have 13volts feeding the fuse.
Thanks
Thanks,
Skywalker2
Much appreciated!
I just bought my first Toyota ('93 Camry LE) yesterday and am having a problem with the driver's side power window. All of the windows worked when I test drove it but when I got home, the driver's window wouldn't go all of the way back up. I could completely open it but it would only go back up about 3". That happened a couple of times and then it stopped going up at all. It's stuck completely open. The three other windows work fine though. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix that?
It's probably covered in previous threads so if I have time I'll read through them today when (if) I get time. If anyone has a quick and easy fix, please reply.
Thanks,
Dave
Feel free to email me at davesorlie2@gmail.com with any suggestions.
Thanks,
dave
Also, just fyi, I saw where you said you would read through the posts if you had time. There's a search function for each individual discussion and also a search at the group level which will make your quest far easier!