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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    And by the way, if you do find that a wire is broken and you need to replace it, the replacement wire must be 'stranded' as opposed to 'solid'. Solid wire will break when bent back and forth, as compared to stranded wire.

    I personally prefer soldering and taping (or shrink tubing).
  • armindoarmindo Member Posts: 3
    Sorry but I did not read your response before fiddling with the car today, so I did not do any of your suggestions. I was more concerned initially with the windows so I worked on that, though I did check the 10A and 30A fuse and they are okay. A couple of things before I try your checks in the morning:

    1) One odd thing I noticed, which may be a security feature and okay: When I try to lock the doors from the passenger side AND THE KEY IS IN THE IGNITION, the locks move to the lock position, but then rapidly unlock. If I lock without key in ignition or using key in lock, the doors lock and unlock normally (passenger side and rear only).

    2) As for windows I applied direct voltage to drivers window motor and it did work. Oddly though, if i check voltage at 2-pin harness for motor, I find 12V in both pins (red and green wires)....does that make sense..I suspected only one with Voltage or maybe neither until switch is engaged? Similary, on drivers master switch, if I apply voltage to pin 7 on module side and check voltage on other pins, I find 12V on all pins except 3 & 4. No Voltage on 3&4 makes sense since they are seperate circuit for the door lock,but why would the others see Voltage without pressing the individual switches. I did notice that if I press a switch, there is briefly a movement in the voltage reading at the particular pin that is associated with that switch. As I mentioned before, I find 12V coming to pins 3, 7 and 8 as would be expected with ignition to "on" position. I also had voltage coming to the passenger window control switch. Since there is a seperate wire bringing current directly to the passenger switch (besides the wire that comes from the drivers master switch) but it still does not operate, I figure the main power relay (relay after 30A fuse) is not working properly...maybe not allowing enough amperage. Do you agree, or is there something else I should check?
    Thanks for your help...
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    1.) I believe that is correct. I know that the security system is part of the control circuitry which turns the locks up or down, so it would not surprise me that they wouldn't allow the door to lock with key in ignition. Your owners manual may describe that feature, I don't have time to look it up.

    2.) Compare the voltage on the connector on the drivers side lock motor, with the voltage on the connector on the passenger side lock motor. They should be exactly the same.

    Did you check the drivers LOCK motor, and apply voltage to it....or did you mess with the WINDOW motor? I need you to be checking the LOCK motor, to verify that it is locking and unlocking when voltage given to it directly. I also need you to measure the LOCK motor connector voltages.

    All of the lock motor connectors should be the same.

    For reference at this point, the door lock control relay, which is the brains that controls the door lock connector voltages, is behind the passenger side kick panel.

    An important point to help in your analysis, is the that the door lock switches don't directly turn on the door lock motors. The door lock switches are INPUTS to the door lock control relay (as well as the security system, for instance). The OUTPUT of the door lock control relay, are the two wires that go out to all of the door lock motors.

    Forget about the windows right now, lets stay focused on the door locks.
  • imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    i need to change my spark plugs. they look worn out. but would it be okay i just replace them with new plugs even though my old ones had oil on them? can it be too much oil when i had an oil change or the valve cover gasket need to be changed?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Imup,

    First, you should post in the appropriate forum if you want to get maximum visibility to your questions. This is a engine maintenance question, not an electrical question.

    But to try and answer your question. Yes, clearly if the plugs are worn and have oil on them, they should be replaced. New plugs would be better than old plugs. This could be why, or contribute to, the problem of your engine stalling.

    Wat causes the oil in the first place is what you need to ultimately understand.

    Oil on the plugs, is indicative of oil being burned in the combustion chamber, If the problem with your engine is worn rings, then oil that lubricates the cylinder walls is not being swept clean by the oil ring when the piston is going downwards, and this means your engine is just worn out or 'high mileage'. Not much you can do about this but replace or rebuild the engine....but that typically means get a different car. If this is the problem, then oil is burned all of the time, consumes oil all of the time, and smokes all of the time. It will undoubtedly ruin the catalytic converter, and you drive it until it drops or doesn't pass inspection anymore. You'd also see that oil is on all 4 of the plugs with this problem. Depending on how much oil it is currently burning and how bad your compression is, will determine whether it can last for months this way, or years.

    If you have a valve seal leaking causing the problem, then it could be on only one cylinder, and oil would seep in when the car sits. Could also be general wear on the seals across multiple cylinders also due to high mileage, but would typically start in one of the cylinders. You get a puff of smoke in the morning, and generally then runs clean. This can be repaired with top end valve work.

    So replace the plugs, and start to observe smoking symptoms and oil consumption. Note how much oily residue is in the tailpipe. Pull the plugs in a month and see how each plug compares against each other, to see a.) how bad the problem is, and b.) whether all cylinders are effected or just one/two.

    If you have a cylinder compression tester, while you have the plugs out you can get an idea of what the general health of each cylinder is by doing a simple compression test on each cylinder.
  • lybrian1lybrian1 Member Posts: 5
    i tried to install LED strips on my car and i think the wires touched or something but now my car wont start up. when i attempt to start up the car i hear several clicking sounds coming from the fuse/relay boxes. i have a 2000 toyota camry by the way. i see a flash in the relay that was labeled Main. now when i try to start up the car it runs for about 2 seconds and then it shuts down.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Do you know what wires touched?

    Where were you trying to attach the LED strip to get power from?

    And do you have a volt/ohmeter where you will be able to check voltages and resistance?
  • lybrian1lybrian1 Member Posts: 5
    i connected it to the parking lights and they might have touched
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    let's try 'sumthing', or a couple somethings to get a handle on some basic circuits of what's working and what is not working.

    With the key in, and turned to the 'on' position (doesn't have to start, just powering everything on), tell me whether the following things are working, I've picked things on diffferent circuits which are easy to check:
    1.) does the cigarrette lighter or power adapter plug have power?
    2.) do the wipers work?
    3.) does the horn work?
    4.) do the daytime running light headlights come on (DRL), light switch in correct position of course
    5.) does the dome light come on with the door open?
    6.) when you turn on the running lights, does your glovebox light and/or ashtray light comeon/illuminate
    7.) with the running lights on, are your front and rear outside running lights on?

    Let me know what the answers to those questions are, and we should be able to zero in closer.
  • imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    alright thanks for that reply.

    i read the official manual for my car. it says to use only the spark plugs of the type they specified; also said "using other types will cause engine damage, loss of performance or radio noise." they gave me 2 brands and they both have the model numbers. i searched online, they dont have the specified brands at my local Autozone or Kragen stores. but Autozone and Kragen do have spark plugs for my 1993 Toyota Camry but not the specified plugs mentioned on the manual. can i just buy them at Autozone or Kragen? or do i need to kind the exact plugs needed? thanks for all of your help. saving me time,money, and stess.
  • armindoarmindo Member Posts: 3
    I looked closer into the wires from the door to the body by removing the boot, and found that there were four broken wires and a few cracked ones. I fixed them and now it works. Never fails to be this problem it seems given the posts I have seen. Also the theft alarm which had not worked for a while now works.
    My only problem now is that the driver side window only goes half way up and struggles to do so. It goes down fine. It use to work before....any ideas?

    Thanks for all your help.... I learned a few things.
  • lybrian1lybrian1 Member Posts: 5
    thanks for the quick reply basically everything works except for the parking lights
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Okay..... think I've got this narrowed down.

    Check your 10A tail fuse. It's in the fuse box by drivers left knee. It's in the 2nd column from the left, bottom fuse. It's 10Amp.

    Let me know what you find.
  • lybrian1lybrian1 Member Posts: 5
    thanks i will try but i dont know how this could affect the engine
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    From the name of the fuse, you wouldn't think so. But hanging off that fuse are three things:
    - Tailight
    - Engine control
    - Wireless Door Lock

    I believe the upstream taillight relay is fine (which is what powers this fuse), since it feeds a couple fuses..... and one of the other items I had you check is hanging off a fuse (which you confirmed was working) is also fed from the taillight relay. So therefore, the taillight relay appears to be okay, which would then provide power to the input of the taillight fuse. The taillights are directly off the output of this tailight fuse, which I had you check and you indicated don't work. So it really is focused right in on this fuse.

    Check this fuse, and if there is still another problem we'll shoot that next.
  • imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    i read the official manual for my car. it says to use only the spark plugs of the type they specified; also said "using other types will cause engine damage, loss of performance or radio noise." they gave me 2 brands and they both have the model numbers. i searched online, they dont have the specified brands at my local Autozone or Kragen stores. but Autozone and Kragen do have spark plugs for my 1993 Toyota Camry but not the specified plugs mentioned on the manual. can i just buy them at Autozone or Kragen? or do i need to kind the exact plugs needed? thanks for all of your help. saving me time,money, and stess.
  • justlostjustlost Member Posts: 6
    Maybe you moved something inside the door that is now physically interferring with the window operation.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Or oil had accumulated in the spark plug "wells" and contaminated the plug as it was removed.

    It would be unusual, in the extreme, to have spark plugs "wet" with oil and not have noticed the blue smoke out the exhaust.
  • lybrian1lybrian1 Member Posts: 5
    thanks alot you are a big help, i replaced the fuse and my car started up fine, thanks again
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Excellent....good job!
  • imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    my door locks (driver and passenger side) don't work unless i have the key in the ignition (ON).

    on the driver's side, i have to use two hands to open the door. this is what i have to do to open my door: put the key into key hole, turn it, then with my left hand i use to open the door. when i turn the key to unlock it, it does not unlock, it gets jammed. i sort of have to "jimmy" it. i do the same thing when im inside the car; i put my thumb on the lock as if i was going to unlock it but as im doing this im holding it back then with my right hand i open with the door handle. and when i try to unlock it, the lock from the inside does not move. this is the most inconvenient issue because i always have to use two hands :[.

    also my driver's power window work but when i want to put my window up i have to use extra strength to put the window up.

    i know these are a lot of issues but i will greatly appreciate it if someone can help me then going to a shop and being charged big money when it might be possible i can fix it my self. thanks you.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    For the window problem, you have to figure out whether it is a mechanical problem, or an electrical problem. In a vehicle your age, the window hardware can just be plain worn out, and have binding in the track. Or, you could have an electrical switch problem with a resistance which isn't proving the full voltage (or 'power') to the electric motor. Or, the problem could be the electric motor itself.

    If you disconnect the electric motor from the window mechanism, you can work the window track by hand and feel whether the window moves smoothly, or has binding and the cause of the needing the manual 'extra strength. If a bind, buy a replacement track mechanism, or adjust/grease as needed.

    With everything connected and while the motor is engaged and moving the window up, measure the voltage at the window switch. If the voltage drops substantially due to the window current draw, then it's likely that either the switch is bad or you wiring to the switch across the door jamb has deteriorated and you have a resistance there from some possible frayed wiring.

    If voltage is okay, and track mechanism is okay, then replace the window motor.
  • lowertwinlowertwin Member Posts: 8
    I replaced the 10 amp tail-light fuse and 2000 camry still want start, must be another fuse because radio won't play, windows won't move, fans and door locks don't work and taillights don't work (and maybe other things) . Horn and front lights work.

    All fuses under hood looks good. Does one of these control the smaller fuses in the inside (at about left knee)

    Would a code reader help? Please give directions on its use
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Does your engine starter engage, crank and turn the engine?

    What year and model is your camry?
  • imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    did i mention, whenever i try to put my driver's window up i have to use a lot of strength to put the window up?

    and my door locks work only when the key is turned to "ON". and the door locks still work when i take out the key but only for a few minutes. and when a they dont work, it can only lock all the doors, it cant unlock.

    im not sure how to use a voltage meter.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    did i mention, whenever i try to put my driver's window up i have to use a lot of strength to put the window up?

    See 743....it says you have to take the window motor off, and move the window manually to see whether the problem is mechanical where the window and track are binding....or electrical.
  • imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    meaning i have to take out the door panel correct?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Yes, you have to take the door panel off, to get inside the door. You have to disassemble the electric motor from the window, so that you can manually lift the window up and down to see how the mechanism works....and see how smooth it moves. You will probably find a bind, or something loose, or something bent.

    Figure out where it is binding, and do whatever it takes to fix it.

    Be careful of fingers and sharp edges.
  • lowertwinlowertwin Member Posts: 8
    My Toyota 4 cylinder will crank but won't start. The door locks, the windows, the radio, the clock, heater /ac fan, wipers,and tail light don't work It appears that the fuses are bad, but the fuses looks good on inside of car at drivers left leg. The horn, dome light and headlights work fine. Does one of the hood fuses control the inside fuses. Would a code reader help to solve my problem. Would there be
    a security code that is contributing to the problem
  • imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    okay i tried a while back. i took out all the screws but i cant seem to take out the panel. im not sure if its a screw or i have to pop it out hard. its holding the middle of the panel i dont want to pull it so hard it might brake.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Try this
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Lowertwin....don't despair, we should be able to figure this out ...

    Can you tell me whether each of these work:

    - Stop Lights
    - Cigarette/Power Outlet (when ign key turned on)
    - Wiper (when ign key turned on)

    Code reader of no value.
  • imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    oh my! is this a camry? if it is its a great source. its almost the same as my 93 camry. your the best! now i can run my wire directly to the speaker instead of my stereo's wire harness. thanks!
  • lowertwinlowertwin Member Posts: 8
    Stop Lights
    - Cigarette/Power Outlet (when ign key turned on)
    - Wiper (when ign key turned on)

    none of these work
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I suspect your 100 Amp alternator fuse. It's actually a fusible link.

    Up in the engine compartment, on the left driver fenderwall. There is a fusible link block, forwardmost section. This is connected to the battery, take care in replacing.

    What did you do that caused this problem? Jumping a dead battery? This is a very major fuselink to blow.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If that alternator fuselink is blown due to jumping a battery so are the 6 rectifying diodes in the alternator.
  • lowertwinlowertwin Member Posts: 8
    You were right, the 100 amp fuse was blown. Replaced it
    and all things seems to be working, except it will not start. Do you have any other suggestions?

    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Good, making progress.

    Undoubtedly some other downstream fuses from that 100amp might be blown as well. Let me look at the schematics, and give you a couple things to look at to determine what else might be blown.

    How did you have this problem in the first place....what triggered that to blow?

    Okay, please check the following things to see if each item is working or not. That should allow to zero in on the problem area.
    - does the cigarette lighter have power? (with key on)
    - does the wiper work? (with key on)
    - does the starter engage and crank the engine?
    - Does the stop/brake light work when you put foot on brake?
    - when you turn on the headlights, do the running lights in the back turn on?
  • lowertwinlowertwin Member Posts: 8
    I assume the cause for the 100 amp fuse to blow was jump starting a dead battery.

    cigarette lighter works
    wipers works
    engine cranks, but will not srart
    stop/brake light work Tail lights work
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Good, all of the main distribution legs have power now.

    Now I need you to pull actual fuses, and verify that they are okay.
    10 A Gauge fuse - Instrument Panel (IP)
    5 A IGN fuse - IP
    15 A EFI fuse - Junction Block on left fenderwall engine compartment
    7.5 A OBD fuse (IP)
    5 A Starter (IP)
    15 A ECU-IG fuse (IP)

    Let me know what you find. Hopefully you have an ohm meter that you can check to see that there is continuity thru the fuse.
  • lowertwinlowertwin Member Posts: 8
    Good News.... The 15 amp EFI fuse was blown, replaced it and it started. One note thought that the alternator diodes would be bad,but it seems to be charging.

    Thanks for your assistance
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Great....congrats.

    I would watch it carefully for a week or so. You could have an alternator problem, or even some relays that don't work correctly (like turning your headlights, or radiator fans on).

    I also didn't check all of the fuses, just the key ones needed to run....so you may find that something else doesn't work (a/c, defrosters, electric seats, etc, etc, etc).

    Good job, saved yourself some $$.
  • littledixilittledixi Member Posts: 4
    some times my backup lights work some times they dont also noticed when applying the brake clock on dash dims clock does the same when headlights are on
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You need to verify first that you have a good battery, that the connections to the battery are tight and free of any corrosion (which adds resistance thereby dropping voltage), and that your alternator is okay and charging the battery back up to the right voltage.

    Most auto parts chains will do a complimentary test of battery and alternator for you.
  • littledixilittledixi Member Posts: 4
    i do have some corrosion on battery had auto parts store check battery and alternater they said they were ok should go ahead and clean pos cable also when problem stared with my running lights fuse blowing, replaced fuse no problem with those lights or brake lights
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Absolutely,

    Put a little water on it, then pour some arm and hammer baking soda on it to neutralize the acid. It'll fiz for a while, and then you can wash it off. All corrosion needs to be gone, and connectors tight. Wire brush everything to get nice clean metal to metal.

    I usually put a dab of petroleum jelly over the terminals and connectors, helps the corrosion from coming back.
  • littledixilittledixi Member Posts: 4
    i have to do tomorrow morning ,what volts does this alterater put out i think the tester said 14.4 volts ...
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    That would be good voltage
  • littledixilittledixi Member Posts: 4
    will let you know tommorow what happens thanks for help, iam getting ready to go on trip..
  • tgtoyotatgtoyota Member Posts: 1
    I am blowing the turn signal fuse on 95 Camry. Left turn signal works fine, right turn signal blows the fuse. Bulbs have been replaced, sockets/contacts are clean, wires do not have any visible issues. Not sure what else can be causing this issue besides the turn signal switch. Looking for other things to check before I turn to the dealer.
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