Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Another way would be to run wires up to the battery. Connect one black wire to the negative terminal of the battery with a test clip....this will be your ground.
Get a small fuse holder with fuse, and put a long red wire on one end of the fuse holder, and a test clip on the other. Connect the test clip to the positive terminal of the battery....this is your positive 13 volts. So you have battery, then test clip connected to the battery terminal, then fuse holder w/fuse, then long red wire over to the car door.
Take the two wires over to the actuator, being careful not to touch the red wire to either the black wire or the metal of the car. (If you do, it will blow the small fuse you just put in the holder).
Put the voltage directly to the actuator plug as described in previous post.
Thanks again.
Thank you.
Take your vehicle to an autoparts chain (Pepboys, Autozone, etc) or dealership. Ask them to do an on vehicle alternator and battery check under load. At the autoparts chains, this is usually a free service. They have a machine which they will connect to your battery and alternator, which will check that the alternator is putting out the correct maximum amount of current at the right voltage, and that the battery doesn't have a bad cell and delivers the power it is supposed to.
Also inspect your battery terminals for corrosion, and that they are tight.
"After my car sit all day at work, I got in it to drive home and my power windows didn't work or my dash instruments. Found 10 amp gauge fuse blew after I got home. replaced it and after driving for a few minutes , it blew again. And the battery died after a while and it is affecting the shifting in the trans now. I am sure it's all related by a ground or something. Any ideas? 1999 Camry CE with 145,000."
I have the same problem - 95 Toyota Camry SE. Except the first fuse melted and didn't blow - I removed the melted fuse and I think the fuse slot is fried. Before I start going through all the "Excellent" troubleshooting you have outlined, should I replace the fuse box. I haven't replaced it because I wanted to find the real problem first, but I fear it will be difficult to find the problem without closing the circuit at the fuse. Where should I start?
One of the legs where the fuse plugs in should have 13 volts on it (assuming the battery is good), and the other should have 0 volts.
You are awesome - kiawah!! Thanks again@
Tested the fuse slot, it was good, a new fuse wouldn't go in because it was deformed - I inserted two blades connected to an inline fuse. I began your check list starting with the trunk. There they were - bare,melted wires. I cut, cleaned, reconnected and put some extra protection on them. Started the car and drove for about 15 minutes. Everything seems to check out. Fuse wasn't warm, no symptoms. I must say - you seem to know your Toyota's very well. I thank you for all your help. I have a few things to work on, so I hope to talk to you a little more.
Let me know where to send a six pack, bottle of whiskey, my thanks on the back of a $20 bill, whatever. You saved me days of aimless toil and money. You're great - thanks again!!
Hope you soldered the trunk wires, or used some permanent wire connector....given that they will flex back there and work loose if you just twisted wire and put tape on it.
Next time you walk past a charity of your choice at Christmas, throw an extra buck in their bucket.
I did use permanent connectors. I don't like tracking down electical problems I already fixed - so I tend to over do repairs.
I will add and extra $50 to the scholarship this year and give extra cash to the food bank this Christmas. I will also help somebody else with their car problem. Thanks, again.
AND HE BEAT ME TO IT - SEE Post #847
Please verify that it is the "Gauge" fuse that you are blowing, and not something else.
There are three fuses in this circuitry, make sure all are good.
- 40A Main
- quantity (2) of 15A Headlight fuses
Also let me know whether you have a little portable DC voltmeter that you would know how to use to check some voltages. We can definitely prove where the problem is if you have one of those. They're about 15 bucks.
If you are asking for advice on the connector, you need to buy a replacement socket, and solder the wires in. Make sure you get the correct wires to the correct socket position. You have a high and a low beam wires, as well as a ground.
55 watt Halogen light bulbs run on the HOT side. If at one time someone was not careful enough at fully seating the connector this is what happens. or you may have simply encountered a factory manufactuering defect, the electrical connection of the socket was somehow compromised.
- 10 A Gauge Fuse, and
- 30 A Power Fuse. This 30A is on the fuse block by your left knee, but it is a big fuse over on the right hand side. On the right edge of the fuse block, the top fuse is the Power Fuse.
Let me know what you find.
If you are, this circuit has one fuse that powers all of these lights, so if one is powered they all would be powered. It's the 10A Gauge fuse.
If only one or two are out, then most people would probably just ignore it, otherwise it'll be a trip to the dealership to let them take your dash pieces apart, at whatever their labor rate is.
And is that remote entry and start system a factory unit, or a dealer/other add on?
I suspect you'd blow the ECM's output to the igniter, if you connected directly to the coil.
Thanks,
Chuck
After spending alot of time and effort, I took my car to a electric shop for cars. After 2 weeks and 350 dollars they found that after I had the engine rebuilt , they did not secure the wiring harness behing the engine and after driving it for 6 months, which is how long it took for this problem to come up...the wires melted and 3 wires fused together and would rub on the pipe only when I drove the car and hit a bump. So there you have it. Thank you to Kiawah and everyone who tried to help..
Has anyone experienced poor gas milage like this???
See you there...
THanks!
i have been reading through this thread and gotten some good ideas for what to check to solve my problem, however, so far i've not found the solution.
1997 Camry LE (2.2L automatic, no factory "theft deterrent system", but there is an aftermarket alarm system from previous owner).
- the dome light has been intermittent for several years, though i have "fixed" it several times by popping the bulb out and putting it back in, i now realize that something more is happening with that circuit. the trunk light and key "ring light" also don't work.
additionally, yesterday after checking fuses and pulling the dome light fixture out to see if there was immediately obvious wiring or grounding problem, the power door locks stopped working *unless the key is in ACC or ON position*
- the power leg of the 7.5A Dome fuse reads good voltage (and the fuse is good)
- the dome light is not receiving voltage
- the power windows DO work normally
- i have checked the 25A Door, 10A Gauge, and 30A Power fuses - all OK and good voltage on power legs (though i'll probably check them again as soon as it stops raining).
at this point i'm starting to look at the relay integration module, but i also think i haven't exhausted other troubleshooting avenues. even with the Haynes manual's schematic, i can't really get a clear picture of how everything fits together.
suggestions welcome - thanks!
The dome fuse feeds the integration relay, which then provides power up to the dome light itself. Your symptoms would suggest a problem w/integration relay.
Your key cylinder light does not work, that is also fed from the same point on the integration relay. Symptom points to problem w/integration relay.
The door locks, have as part of their control circuitry....you guessed it, the integration relay.
Luggage compartment light....you guessed it.
a happy ending for this story, yet one with a few twists and turns - unnecessary twists as it turns out.
i did replace the relay integration module (after fetching one from a junkyard and learning the slow way precisely how there are not only 2 little plastic latches that hold it on, but also a hefty socket of connections on the back that doesn't like to let go without substantial persuasion!), but nothing changed.
decided to re-recheck all the fuses that may have anything to do with the problem. after studying the funky diagram on the back of the engine compartment fuse/relay lid, i realized that i had been looking at the wrong fuse! at some point in the past, a 7.5A fuse had been put where a 5A should have been, and a 10A was in the Dome slot. i didn't pay close enough attention to the diagram and therefore was 1 column off, i just looked for the 7.5A fuse.
this is just the kind of lesson that i like to learn every few years. sheesh!
i'm including some pictures here for the benefit of anyone who is going to mess with their integration relay and the following bit of parts info that i learned in my search:
- Camry (models without theft deterrent) integration relay module is interchangable from 1997 - 2000
- part number is 82641-AA010 or 82641-AA020 (both work, AA020 is the updated number, according to Toyota parts - and at the time of writing this, there are 0 (as in none) AA020s available in the USA!). see photo for part number detail.
front of integration relay:
back of integration relay (note the socket near the top, this means the module has to be carefully pryed off):
part number detail:
Somebody switched the fuses...ouch.
Ebay The integration relay, or someone will come along this site and need to buy one at some point. They do fail, and are not the easiest to find.
meanwhile, i had to see what was inside the mysterious relay integration module. here is what i found:
interior electronics of Camry relay integration module (AA010):