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Since the seat fold-down release levers are in the trunk, all you do is remove the small metal key from the keyless fob, then put in in the trunk lock and turn counter-clockwise. This will lock the trunk and disable both the remote fob trunk release (for valets) and also disables the interior trunk release.
It's also listed in the owners manual, FYI.
Hoppy
Chad
You have to wait for the security light to flash before opening any door, trunk or hood.
Your owners manual says to take it to the dealer for service if it doesn't alarm.
I just want to know if you could open both driver and passenger door without turn on the alarm. On my TCH, the alarm goes on if i open the passenger door. It is ok if i open the driver side. My dealer said that the way it is. Only one door could be opened with key in the pocket.
I did not believe it is true.
Thanks
Now when I try to remote start the car, the lights flashes and for a few minutes the battery comes alive, but then everything shuts down again. I get the same results with the key in the ignition. Strangely, even after I remove the key and close the door, I can hear a strange purring sound of the starter from the outside. :mad: :mad: :mad:
Nothing that's electrical on that vehicle works right now, including the door locks.
The car dealer wants me to spend $150 to tow the car, which I know will take the dealer 30 seconds to fix. They don't want to offer me any advice over the phone on how I can revive the car for obvious reasons.
If there's anybody out there that can offer me some simple advice about how I can revive the car I would really be grateful. I don't think there is anything wrong with the electrical system. My gut feeling tells me that somehow we need to kick start the security key system and there must be a simple method involving a few key combinations that will bring the car out of its stupor.
Looks like Toyota has the last laugh - and they purposelly did that to screw over anybody who wants a good deal.
If you get a key blank without the security chip, your car will not start/run.
The non-keyfob valet type key blank, can be cut to be either a valet key(unlocks door and starts car), or a main key (unlocks everything including trunk, and starts car). Again, it has an integrated security chip. You are given one of these with the new vehicle.
The integrated keyfob is cut to be a main key. You are given two of these with the new vehicle. The integrated security chip is configured to work with the security system, the keyfob is configured to work with the door lock/unlock.
So 3 of the available 4 keys are currently issued to you with the new car. You can only add one more key. If you want, you could eliminate the valet key, and buy 2 keyfob type keys to have a total of 4 keyfob keys.
The dealer will charge you for a blank(two diferent prices, depending if it is a non-keyfob valet type key, or a keyfob), they will charge you labor for a.) cutting the key, to either the valet or main key, b.)programming the security (required for either type key), and c.) for the lock/unlock keyfob programming (if the key bought is an integrated keyfob).
I bought Camry LE 2008 with the keyless entry.
How to integrate security alarm system by using same remote pad?
The dealer wants $600 and sad It's possible.
I found a Lexus dealer online that sold me a "non remote" (no buttons) master key, cut the key to work with my car (using my car's VIN), and mailed it to me, all for $51. Then using instructions found on the internet, I programmed the key myself. (involves stepping on the brake and gas pedals certain numbers of times and opening and closing the drivers door certain numbers of times). Saved me $349 per key. But without buttons, I am FORCED to have to put the key in the lock.
You don't even have to have official Toyota keys. There are generic keys with built-in transponders that can be cut, and probably programmed by most locksmiths. Do some digging on the internet.
What about security alarm system for this car? Is it built with it?
I think the thing to do is to ask at your dealership's part desk, to see if there is a bill of materials available to purchase which adds the wireless functionality.
If it was to get stolen, which I don't think they are. I call the number then what?
Just a quick thanks for having an awesome board like this, that the average person could go to to get answers.
I just purchases a 2009 Toyota Camry SE, that came with a manufacturer installed alarm system.
My question is, what would be the best (quality,affordability) Remote Start System to install?
And also is it possible to have the remote starte installed in the Key that came with the car (which only has buttons for lock, unlock, trunk and panic) instead of having those big clumpy remotes attached to the key.
i.e. Like is it possible to put it in the door unlock function button that when you unlock the doors then hold it down for five seconds the car starts....
Thanks in advance for your help... the board is great!
- Anthony
1. Both keys cannot open the car locks or trunk.
2. Both keys cannot lock the car, but the hazard light flash.
3. When I try to lock or unlock the locks via the button on the driver/passenger side it does not work.
What is the problem? Electrical?
It just happened.
There are two programming connections that have to be made with the keys. Each key has an immobolizer chip in it, which the computer needs to be told which immobolizer chips should be allowed to start the vehicle. For the keys with the integrated keyfob, the computer then needs to be programmed to accept those wireless signals.
Thanks!
also the engine immobiliser bypass system should not have been shut down. what i use is the integration units. i do not shut it down, only bypass it during the start cycle. what is done is that i use a module that learns the immobiliser code and incorporates it to the remote starter. it can only be activated with the remote starter during the start cycle, and cannot be triggered by an out side source. as always though the quality of the installations by most shops is not of the highest quality. i have the luxury of working at a dealership that affords me to take the time to do a precise and neat installation on all vehicles that i work on.
Also, where is the tach wire (color & specific location)? The diagram says it's black and behind the driver's strut tower. However, I only found a black w/ a white striped wire. It's not allowing my autostart to keep the car running and the diagnostic light says there's no tach signal. Any help would be appreciated.
The door lock and unlock 'relay' (actually an integrated circuit board), is under the dash on the passenger side. Not sure where (and how) you are connecting in to the door lock circuitry, which wires you are connecting into, and how the UNGO is supposed to integrate/work with that circuitry.
I've always found aftermarket add-on's to be pretty iffy, given that vehicles are different in how they control the different functions in the car. It can be different from year to year (like one year of Camry to the next), different from one model of a manufacturer to another (like Camry to Corolla), certainly different across manufacturer.
I am trying to install AUTOSTART Remort start ,I did find out tech wire
please give me hint if you know
please some one help me. There is no black wire at check connector
- Using the door buttons, check to see whether the lock and unlock work. If the inside door buttons don't work, then you may have blown a fuse.
desperate
Paid $200 to the dealer to diagnose it & they could only intermittently fix it by jiggling the wire harness connection to the computer chip. It stayed "fixed" for 1 day, and hasn't worked since. The dealership says their only other idea is to replace the computer for $800.
It's not worth paying any more money to fix this problem, I'm just hoping it isn't a wire short that could eventually cause other problems to happen!
Anyone else ever seen this?