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Net
but I have been using it over 25 years in all my vehicles,
they have a broader range of oils,they make their own oil
and air filters.I am a dealer but mainly to get the oil easier,will get to anyone who wants it for my cost.they do not have a filter for the av yet so I have been using the
toyota one.I will probably change the filter at around the
4 or 5k life of the oil and go from there.(will check color
and maybe take a oil sample).
Bottom line: Use Amsoil or Mobil 1, you are 450% better off then conventional oil if you drive with heavy loads, extream heat conditions or cold conditions. (Or just like me, like to have the peace of mind knowing that your 25k+ baby is looked after to the best of your ability.
Would you agree?
Netwon
Steve :shades:
Roland
Dandydon
I've used AMSOIL for about 15 years now thanks to a tip from a guy at work. Ran a 86 Camry on it 'til I gave it away, still running but not much power, at 220 thousand. Ran a 96 Camry on it from new til 100 thousand, my daughter has it now and still running AMSOIL. Also use it in a 94 Civic and a 87 Nissan pkup. Last but not least I used it in a 79 Chevy pkup.
Instructions I got from my friend that I follow is to add 1 quart instead of regular oil at an oil change then use just AMSOIL at the next. Per AMSOIL I run 6 months, change my filter only, then at 1 year change oil and filter.
One of the things that made me a fan - The Chevy truck leaked from every gasket and the main shaft seal after changing to AMSOIL, heard it would do that on an old engine but I was younger and more energetic then! Changed all the seals and then ran the truck for a year when it blew a head gasket, ( inline 6's do that). Decided to tear it down and do rings and bearings while getting the head ground. Inside the engine I found that everywhere oil was sprayed under pressure the metal was as clean as new with NO sludge at all, other places had quite a bit of buildup, these were places that did not have oil sprayed at them.
Truck was sold at 185 thousand due to body rust. The engine went into a delivery truck and had daily use for about 5 years after - not sure what oil was used.
Engine maint. lite I cleared by following the owners manual.
Roland
1. Select the total milage odometer.
2. turn the engine power off.
3. hold the odometer toggle button in.
4. power up the engine (not start it).
5. hold the above until the milage reads all -----.
That's it.
Dandydon
You can get more info at gobrands.com or call them at 888-485-8468.
Valeo ULTIMATE® OE Wiper Blade
Make Selected: TOYOTA
Model Selected: Avalon
Year Selected: 2006
Driver — Part No: 900-26-7
Pass. — Part No: 900-20-7
Thanks,
Steve
what is prompting you to change the belt? I also have a
'97 with 56k miles with some oil leaks, and am debating
change the belt. Thanks cps
I'll be taking a trip soon should I go ahead and get it
replaced now. Are there any signs, noise etc that a belt
needs to be changed. Your suggestions, Thanks cps21
Obafunque :mad:
This new oil filter system on the new Toyotas in which you only change the filter element has me confused. After reading the instructions on the filter element box, I am still confused. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks Don Morrison
The small removable cap in the end is simply to drain excess oil from the filter housing-slick idea. Take it off, plug in the plastic fitting and oil will run out (the piece of hose makes it more controllable).
Use a filter wrench to unscrew the main filter housing. Remove old filter, insert new filter (It will only fit on center post one way), replace big o-ring. Re-install filter/housing on engine. This is a metal to metal fit (o-ring provides seal) so finger tight is not enough. Torque slightly.
Replace o-ring on small cap and reinstall, again metal to metal fit.
It looks complex on instructions, but if you do it once, it's pretty simple. It's the old filter cartridge with more pieces!
Zizzer :confuse:
Step 1 Switch display to the odometer.
Step 2 Turn the "ENGINE START STOP" switch or the engine switch to the OFF position.
Step 3 While pressing the trip meter reset button, turn the "ENGINE START STOP" switch or the engine switch to the ON position. Continue to press and hold the button until the trip meter displays 000000.
Thanks
If re-initialization of TPMS is required:
Adjust all tires to correct cold tire pressure.
Turn ignition switch to ON.
Push and hold tire pressure warning switch (push button located under dash to left of steering wheel) until TP Warning Light blinks slowly three times.
Wait for a few minutes with ignition switch ON, then turn switch OFF.
If TP warning light does not blink slowly three times, try procedure again.
Hope this info helps.
http://www.vat19.com/dvds/auto-jumper-jumpstarts-car-without-cables.cfm
You dont need a very big battery to preserve radio presets.
i got a new avalon 02 XL, there is dash board light which is on.
the light is right down corner one.the symbol is is yellow.
and symbol shows a car and arrows @the back .iwant to know waht that light means........
PLZ help ......
thanks in advance...........
I'm not sure what that indicator light is on your car.. I have an 07 xls and I looked in the owners manual to see if I could find any warning lights that looked like what you described... the only thing I found was a symbol of a car with 2 squiggly lines, also at the back. According to my owners manual, this symbol is; 'slip indicator / traction control system off light. This may or may not be related to your icon... but hope it helps none the less.
Roland
-- Must I take off the intake manifold in order to be able to change the rear plugs, or can it somehow be done with the manifold in place?
-- If I only manage to replace some of the rear three, will it cause any problems? (My gut is that it will cause some kind of imbalance if some plugs are old and some are new.)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You are correct about the need to change all plugs at the same time.
I seriously doubt that dealers remove the intake to change plugs on these engines.
http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_oil_change.pdf
It wasn't easy -- what should have taken a half hour took three hours! -- but I got it done. It's unbelievable that you can actually maneuver everything around so that you can replace the rear three plugs, but those clever people at Toyota have made it so that it's just barely possible. The trick is to have enough tools so that you can situate your wrench at just the right distance from the plugs (there is only one spot where it will work). So, you have to have at least a short and long extension for your socket wrench. Also, it's important that they all fit together tightly so that you can extract them if necessary (and, when you put a plug back in, it's necessary).
I also thought that the 2000 Avalon had VVtiming w/hydraulic lifters; if so, shouldn't they be self-adjusting?
Chic