Toyota Avalon Basic Maintenance Questions

amauhry · July 2008

You could say theyre self-adjusting but this is related to timing. They, however, cant self-adjust their physical position with respect to the camshaft thus affecting, say, their seating position when closed, etc.

But first, why do you need these services? Perhaps loss in horsepower? Sound stemming from the valve area, suggesting unwanted friction?

Why the need of flushing the engine?
Engine flush (oil) suggests that at one point in time during or after the flush (depending how the flush is done) your engine is going to start somewhat dry. This is not the same as when first starting your car in the morning. Engine flush aint a good thing unless that engine block is sitting at the manufacturers plant.

Amaury
08 Limited

fin · July 2008

After you change the oil and add the 6 quarts back... start and run the engine for a few minutes. Then turn it off and let it sit for a while. Then carefully check the level on the dipstick again. Is it still full? Or is it a little low? If low, add the 0.4 quarts. Let the forum know what happens as many here (but not me) do their own oil changes.

smudgy2 · July 2008

I do the oil changes myself on our 2005 Avalon.Initially, I used the 6.4 quart fill amount but soon realized that by omitting the .4 quart (13 Ounces) would only reduce the optimum by 6.5%, a rather insignificant amount. So now I use six quarts. Incidentally, on the dipstick, the difference between full and low is 1.6 quarts. A low mark indicates you need 51 ounces (25% of max). Good luck. Hope you enjoy your Avalon as much as we have.

chicz · July 2008

Thanks for the response. I nixed the engine flush as I also drive a Saab and those have a history of bad experiences with engine flushes. However, the valve clearance check is something that Toyota recommends at the 60K service. However, there are not any symptoms such as you described that would suggest that the valves are out of spec. I also found that the valves on this engine in 2000 were not hydraulic, so they are not self-adjusting.

Based on that , would you pay the $500 for a valve check? I am tending to let things go the way that they are.

Chic
2000 XLS

kathym3 · April 2009

Hi, I have a 2003 Toyota Avalon XLS with about 73K miles on it. I've had it 2 years and haven't done anything to it, but get oil changes new tires and new brakes. It was my grandmother's and she took good care of it and I got it when she passed away. I'm thinking I should probably have it "tuned up" or something, but, of course, am worried about getting ripped off. Can anyone suggest what I should get checked out the next time I take it into the shop for an oil change?

gilseidman · April 2009

Look for the car manual and follow the instructions for the changes required at the mileage that they state for the type of driving that you do. My 1995 Avalon required a timing belt change every 60,000 miles. It also recommended a change of spark plugs at 100,000 miles. You should also check when the coolant, air filter, fuel filter and PC valve should be changed. There also may be a cabin filter to be changed. Do not do anything that is not recommended in your manual. I have 160,000 miles and the car runs and looks like new. Also recommend washing the car and waxing it on occasion.

lonnie4 · April 2009

Hi everyone! I own a 2003 Avalon XL (maybe XLS, can't remember) well anyway, when I turn my windshield wipers off, they stop right in the middle of windshield. Plus I notice when I turn on my heated seats, I am starting to get an awful smell. Another thing, I notice rust around where my tires are. Should I go get this professionally removed and repainted? I remember having a 1984 Toyota truck and the engine ran for ever but body was falling off.

I have over 100,000 miles on it. (sadly still owe another year). Will be wiser next time when buying a car. Will definately have a down payment!

Any help appreciated. Thank you.

1lotlizard · April 2009

I bought 2009 within the past month. The manual gives no service schedule for brake and transmission fluid. Any guidance on that? Thanks for all input.

1lotlizard · April 2009

I am very pleased with the new 2009, but have two minor concerns / questions.

1. The wiper on drivers side has some streaking at the point of attachment to the arm, which happens to be my sightline. This is a brand new dealer installed wiper blade. My first set of blades had a problem and were replaced. Has anyone else had this problem or others with the wiper blades?

2. The cooled seat does get cold, but not as fast as my neighbor's car (not a Toyota). Any other complaints on slow seat cooling?

nimimi · April 2009

The seats are not "cooled." They are heated and ventilated.

moimeme1 · April 2009

I have a Toyota avalon 98 and the air bag light is blinking. Is there something I can do to reset it?

gilseidman · May 2009

I have the 2008 Avalon Limited and there is no schedule for brake or transmission fluid. There is also no dipstick for the transmission. I would follow the instructions in the manual and leave those things alone. You could check the brake reservoir visually and add fluid if low for any reason but it is not likely. It may become lower as the brake pads are used up and should be checked when you do a brake job. I have never drained and replaced brake fluid in my 1995 Avalon and I have 160,000 miles on it.

bigroz8000 · May 2009

Hello. I am going to be replacing the struts on my 2002 Toyota Avalalon XL. I am trying to decide between the Monroe Sensa Trac strut and the KYB GR2 strut. The car has a lot of shimmy at high speeds. I prefer a more comfortable, smooth ride. I am older and not looking to make this in to a sports car. Just want to restore the ride to the way it was when I bought it. Any help with this decision is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2009

Before you start, what do you mean by "shimmy"? If you mean you can feel the steering wheel moving back and forth, that's not struts, that's wheel balance most likely, or a bent rim, or out of round tire.

if you mean the car wanders around the road, new struts might help that but this is often an alignment or front end bushing issue.

Bad struts will give you a "wallowing" feeling (pitching, moving side to side, bouncing up and down) when braking, going around turns, or over bumps. In other words, bad struts show up when the suspension is under some stress.

bigroz8000 · May 2009

Thanks for the response. It is much appreciated. I don't feel the steering wheel moving back and forth. It is more like the car wanders around the road. I notice it the most at high speeds on highways that are not smooth or have a lot of pitch to them. Also, the car does not handle the bumps very well. The problem started at around 50,000 miles on the car and never really got better with new tires, alignments, and balancing. It now has 93000 miles. Have had it looked at by Toyota, Tires Plus, and an independent mechanic but nothing was found wrong with any aspect of the suspension. I am not really sure what to do. Don't want to play hit or miss with fixing it but the car seems to be all over the road and I am worried that I am damaging something by driving it. Let me know what you think and thanks again for the help.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2009

Okay given the description of symptoms and the mileage on the car, new struts would not be a bad decision in any case. But I think an alignment should be done as well. Normally you don't have to do an alignment when replacing struts but in your case it might be good to at least check it. If you can get Bilstein shocks for your car, they are really great---but probably more $$$ than the other two you mention.

bigroz8000 · May 2009

Thanks again for the help. I just checked but unfortunately they do not make Blistein struts for an 02 Avalon. Just a few more questions for you. Is there much of a difference in ride comfort between the Monroe and the KYB. Also, would you recommend that I replace my strut mounts as well. Any ideas on what a reasonable price would be for this. I will definitely get the alignment. Thanks for all the great information. This is the first time I have used this forum. I will definitely use again. Thanks for making it a great first experience. Your help is very much appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2009

I'm not real keen on KYB or Monroe. Why don't you research Boge and see if they make a shock for your car.

As for strut mounts, they can be inspected when the strut is off. In the rear, I'd look for rusted mount bolts or cracked rubber. If the rubber mount and studs look clean and healthy,you are good.

In the front, there's the addition of not only rubber and studs to look at, but a BEARING in the mount that lets the wheels turn on the strut. Here, too, I'd only replace these based on some visible defects---or in the case of the front strut, if you get "memory steering", which means you turn the wheel and everything's fine but when you expect the wheel to come back to the straight position after the turn, it may hesitate to do so and feel stiff. That's usually a bad steering mount bearing.

Boge or Bilstein is 2X the shock of the other too, and worth the price.

If you have no choices, I'd go with the KYB GR2s.

bigroz8000 · May 2009

Thanks for the great advice. I am going to look in to the Boge struts. Have a great weekend.

gohawaiian · May 2009

Has anyone experienced several malfunction/warning lights coming on at the same time, without any prior event that might have caused this (such as a panic stop, etc.)? I started my 2005 Avalon one morning last week, after it sat unused overnight, and found that the "check engine", "VSC" and traction control warning lights all illuminated. The same warning lights continue to come on since then and I have since discovered that the adaptive cruise control is also not working ("E3" code displays when attempting to engage cruise control). Car is being serviced today, by dealer - technician seems clueless at this point about what would cause this and wants to charge me for the electronics diagnosis which they claim is not covered under the Toyota extended warranty (7 years, 100K miles) I have. Anyone else have this happen to their car?

tjc78 · May 2009

Can't tell you what is wrong with your car.... however I can tell you that if a condition arises that triggers the check engine light the VSC/TRAC system is disabled and turns those lights on as well. Since the laser cruise uses those systems it probably is disabled as well.

As for the charge to diagnose, isn't this deducted from the bill if you choose to have it fixed?

wwest · May 2009

Could be something as simple as a gas filler cap not fully tightened or someone removed the cap with filling the tank.

gohawaiian · May 2009

Thank you tjc78 and also wwest for your help (Responses #278 & 279). My problem turned out to be a defective gas cap seal. They replaced the cap and everything seems OK now. I gave the service rep a copy of your response (#278) and asked why the dealer's technician didn't know what you knew: namely, that all these other systems (VSC, Trac, laser cruise) would be affected and display warning lights/error codes if the check engine warning was activated. Didn't really get an answer to that, altho he said that their service manuals don't mention that (!) - so they thanked me for showing them your reply and said they would share it with the service technician who worked on my car. Sounds like you helped not only me, but my dealership's service department too! So thanks again!

sgtcoolhand · May 2009

I have a 2002 Avalon and we've owned it for several years now. Last year we experienced the engine not idling like it should or at all, would stall at stop signe and traffic lights too. Anyways, I took it to a friend and he blasted some SeaFoam through the intake and since then the car has been running like new until recently. The check engine light and the VSC lights came on as well, just like last time. What could be causing this and how can I fix it without a really big expense?

ds2 · May 2009

Had exact same problem about a month ago with idling issues on an '02 Camry 130k miles. I had to have car towed because I could not keep it running. No warning lights however. Turns out the idling valve needed to be cleaned out - My mechanic found issue quickly cost $100. Runs like new again with no problems since. They only real issue that I have had on the car for 6 years was this.

wwest · May 2009

The idle air flow bypass port, bypassing the throttle plate, is fairly small and easily plugged up if the intake filter is not changed out often enough, or if someone (read: IDIOT..!!) switches in a "free-flow" K&N instead of staying with OEM or equivalent air intake filters.

Newer DBW systems do not use/need the bypass port so the only real damage a K&N can do is contamination of the MAF/IAT sensors.

hawiianavowner · May 2009

Sounds like an IAC (search in this forum and Google for it with Camry's as well) issue at least, there are posts in cyberspace with descriptions for DIY'ers.

Once cleaned, you could try to reset the error lights, but if they come back you may have to check/clean and or replace your MAF and oxygen sensors.

03avowner · June 2009

Hello, thanks for everybody's enlightening responses.

I have a quick question:

I have an '03 Avalon, 59,000K, upto date on maintence. Over the last few months, the airbag light blinks. It will only blink for a few days and not light up again for a 1-3 wks, followed by a repeat of this cycle.

It is hard to arrange my schedule and sched a check up while the light is on during that short period of time.

1. Can this issue be trouble shoot while the light is off?

2. Given the obvious importance of an airbag, should I only go to a dealer?

3. Any suggestions on Toyota recall websites?

Thank you!

stan600 · June 2009

can someone tell me were the cable ajustment is :mad:

Mr_Shiftright · June 2009

remove the hole plug in the rear hub
Turn the adjuster and expand the shoes until the disc locks.
Return the adjuster 8 notches.
Install the hole plug.

SETTLING PARKING BRAKE SHOES AND DISC

1. Depress the parking brake pedal with 147 N (15 kgf, 33 lbs.) .
2. Drive the vehicle at about 50 km/h (31 mph) on a safe, level and dry road.
3. Drive the vehicle for about 400 meters (0.25 mile) in this condition.
4. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times.

RECHECK AND ADJUST PARKING BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL (under dash)

stan600 · June 2009

Thanks for the info , it was very helpfull .
Stan

Mr_Shiftright · June 2009

glad it was helpful, and welcome to this topic!

Visiting Host

99av190k · October 2010

Mr. Shiftright - which direction do I turn the adjuster - up or down?

to all -
I just had all my rotors turned and replaced the pads. It feels great now - nobody got hurt on my test drive! I fully endorse having the rotors turned, just be aware as they get thinner they will warp more easily.

Mr_Shiftright · October 2010

Well you turn it until they lock, like it says. If it's not one way, it's the other---you should know pretty quick.

twinb · October 2010

On our '05 Sienna the fan belts have been squeaking for a month or two. I've sprayed the fan belt lubricant onto them & the pulleys several times but the noise keeps returning shortly afterward. They're the originals. Do I need to get them replaced, with 88K miles on it? Thanks for any advice.

Mr_Shiftright · October 2010

Spray won't work. At 88K the belts are toast, so yeah, better do it. It's sound preventative maintenance and we'll give you a gold star for doing it! :P

Also when the belts are replaced you might want to consider replacing, or at least carefully inspecting, the idler pulley bearings.

twinb · October 2010

Thanks man, I appreciate the advice. Will do.

rmiska1 · October 2010

I have had a 97 avalon, have a 2001 avalon and a 2006. I have put KYB GR2 struts on the
97 and 2001. The 97 ran to 275K and the struts were still great when it was totaled. At that time
I had to put Toyota on the Front (at 100K miles) I had hit an armadillo and got a knock when I hit just the right bump. I had to change the strut bearing also to make the knock go away.
I changed the 2001 at 130Kmi and put new strut bearings and KYB GR2s all the way around.
a little stiffer ride but handles like its on railroad tracks.

orangeup · October 2012

I own a 2000 Avalon and indeed it shares the same fluid reservoir. The Haynes manual did not specify this, it mentions only the Lexus ES300. When I removed a small bolt above the differential drain plug it started running out with clean fluid and since I just replaced the ATF I knew it was a shared reservoir. I just had to put 4 oz back in.

orangeup · October 2012

The 3 spark plugs on the firewall side, cyl 1-3-5, are though to do, but not impossible with the right tools. Every plug had it own way. The electrical connectors are a pain in the ace to get lose and you don't want to break them or you're in deep poop. You will find that there is just enough room to remove all 3 coil pack studs. To do the middle one leave the outside coil pack studs off but put the new spark plugs in, so you don't drop any debris in cylinder head. Too loosen the coil pack bolts short 10 mm wrenches are a must. I found my battery ratchet wrench very helpful. You need a spark plug socket that grips the plug and various length extensions and a elbow joint to work around a corner. Hint: After you loosen the bolt that holds the little coil pack on, take the bolt out first a.s.a.p. so you don't drop it taking the coil pack stud out. (I'm still looking for one. $^%$#@#$) The middle you can do (must) coming in with a hand from each side underneath the plenum. The middle plug has more space to maneuver your socket wrench and ratchet then the outside ones. With fat underarms it was hard to get both hands under the plenum at the same time only working by touch while your hanging over the engine. A beer gut does provide a little cushion here. It took 4 hours of patient and careful work, this 1st time. To loosen the connector I found a needle nose pliers to work great coming in on back of the connector but be careful not to crack the plastic. Unfortunately that direction is not accessible on Cylinder 5 since it is facing away from you. I just never disconnected it and managed to get it out of the way connected to the coil pack stud so I could do the middle one. Anyway good luck, be careful, don't give up, and don't drop anything. This is doable but you will have lots of nicks on your arms and knuckles.

Toyota Avalon Basic Maintenance Questions

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