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Toyota Avalon (Prior to 2005) Transmission Questions

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Comments

  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    I have the speficif service manuals (toyota) for my 02. I usually buy them for every vehicle I own, as I also usually keep them for over 200K. The Avalon is a 2 volume set, although now I am sure it is avail on CD-ROM. I always find the service manauals handy, enabling me to either do it myself, or at least talk the talk to the service manageer or whoever. I remembe them being around $200 for the set. There is a Haynes manual but more generic. Not of them are totally comprehensive, but I always seem to get my money's worth from them. Some of the pages are dirty and greasy, indicating they were used well.

    I have change my ATF three times, twice with a filter. I only have an XL, but no error codes ever came on anywhere.

    abfisch
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I would first try disconnecting and reconnect, reseat, the external electrical connector to those transaxle solenoids.
  • bettesuebettesue Member Posts: 2
    Thank you.
  • carabedcarabed Member Posts: 2
    My wife's 1999 Avalon XL has had all transmission servicing recommended by Toyota dealer and our dependable local mechanic. We replaced the transmission for the FIRST time at 69k miles with a Toyota rebuilt transmission. Ten months later at 79k a SECOND Toyota rebuilt transmission was installed because of rough, jarring shifts and unusual grinding. It did not work properly (same problems) and after 300 miles was replaced with a THIRD Toyota rebuilt tran. We've only had it one day but the problem still seems to be there The local dealer has been interacting with Toyota engineers to solve the problem but "Toyota transmission problems are so uncommon that they don't have a solution yet."
    Any suggestions on how we might get the company to really help fix this problem? Or, is this a lost cause?
    Fessor
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you might try having the dealer install the next toyota rebuilt transmission. Being both out of warranty and having the work done by an independent mechanic weakens your link to factory assistance two-fold I think.

    Something isn't right here---either the installation is wrong, or the source of the "rebuilts" is dubious.

    If you can swing it, wipe the slate clean....ask for a rebuilt from Toyota (not yours rebuilt by a local subcontractor of the dealer) and have the dealer install it. That way, you get the unit's warranty and the dealer's labor warranty.

    They are either building it wrong or installing it wrong.
  • carabedcarabed Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the suggestion but I'm sorry if I wasn't clear. All of the rebuilt transmissions were Toyota rebuilts installed by the dealer and the second and third were under warranty. On the last one they got the Toyota company engineers involved. One possibility is that the company that rebuilds the transmissions may be installing an incorrect gasket, but we don't yet know whether that is true or not. Fessor.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Very bizarre set of circumstances, to be sure. I wonder if they can order you a brand new one?
  • xomamanxomaman Member Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    I have 2002 Avalon with about 22,000 miles on it. I have owned it since it had about 3,000 miles, for about 3 years. I never beat on it or drive it in severe conditions.

    I have regularly changed the oil and checked the transmission fluid level. This time I checked the transmission fluid level I noticed it was brown. I don't remember seeing it dark before, and I know I have checked it. I know it is supposed to be red, unless Toyota uses some sort of dark OEM fluid.

    So I had the tranny flushed and replaced with new Dextron III fluid. The manual and dipstick says use Dextron II or III for this year.

    I was wondering if anyone knew what might have caused the dark fluid with such low miles. I know high mileage cars that have never had the transmission fluid changed could have this problem, but I have never seen it happen on such a low mileage car.

    The car runs like a top, has never had any shifting or transmission slipping. That's another thing that confuses me, but I never push the car either.

    Thanks -Xman
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Your 2002 likely does not have DBW to "protect the drive train" so the ATF is overheating due to the transaxle's slow response in fully engaging the downshift clutches when you quickly go from a lift-throttle condition to one requiring a substantial level of acceleration.

    Some might advise you to install an auxillary ATF cooler and I would agree that it might help. My reluctance is based on the fact that my 2001 RX300 has the factory auxilary cooler and yet my ATF was BURNED (absolutely NO towing nor rough service) at only 40,000 miles. Then again the RX is much heavier....
  • xomamanxomaman Member Posts: 3
    Yeah, I thought about a tranny cooler, they are only about $50. What do you mean by DBW???
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Some models use DBW, Drive-By-Wire, E-throttle, E-gas, to prevent the engine from developing a significant level of torque during a quick return to acceleration to give the downshifting clutches time to fully seat.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    People:

    Here is my experince. I have an 02 Avalon also. I do tow(utility trailer 5 x 8), sometimes too heavy, but I have cut back now. I have 92K on the car. I have no tranny problems. I change the fluid mostly myself, every 30K, and alternate every other change with a filter too. I also have put a heavy duty magnet for A/T on the bottom of the pan, on the outside.

    I have never flushed it nor do I intend to. I have no problems with this A/T at this point in time and mileage.

    An aside from the constant tranny changes ever 30-40K would be to let you foot pressure off the accelerator at the appropriate shift points. This not only enhances the smoothness of the shift but will prolong the trannys life.

    I am not sure why all the hype about tranny coolers. The car can only tow up to 2000lbs anyway, and I have seen very few Avalons even towing. And if you are driving this car hard for sport, you kinda got the wrong the car.

    Another elusive point, although well trusted, if not overfilling the tranny too. It takes a long time to fill it, unlike an oil change as you have to do it in little amounts. No mechanic on shop time is going to do it perfectly, just not a money maker. Something to be aware of. When I had one mechanic do it, it was overfilled and I had to let out some Dexron III. Never again. It is too easy to do myself.

    abfisch
  • dano42dano42 Member Posts: 11
    Xman:

    I have a 2002 Avalon with 31,000 miles. Also found dark transmission fluid. Just had the transmission flushed. I too have never experienced any slipping but obviously concerned.

    Has any one else found dark trans fluid at such low miles? Any trans failures?

    Thanks

    Dano
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    The color of modern transmission fluid is not as important as the odor. This idea has been posted before here in the Avalon forums. Did it smell burnt? Or was it just dark? If your Avy had 31k or 5 years on it the fluid was finished and needed a change.

    We drove an '03 XL to 90k, changed the fluid twice and did a flush both times (not really necessary to flush each time.) Never missed a beat and the fluid was always darker when it came out than when it went in. Enjoy your Avalon... :)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    ATF burned smell is something one must "learn". Equivalent odor to a burning 1/4 watt resistor or burned phenolic for my own sense of smell.
  • cking35cking35 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 avalon, last Dec. (2006) I replaced the timing belt, decided to replace the transmission filter while I was working on the car. The fluid was dark looking and had a black sooty look in the oil pan and on the filter. Saved the filter and a little bit of the fluid and took it to a national name transmission shop and they told me the fluid had been over heated. I do pull a light boat, but not very far or very often. Would turn the overdrive off like the manual says. The manger at the shop said I shouldn't turn the overdrive off. Took the old filter and oil sample to the local Toyota dealer and they said I should have the transmission flushed every 30000 miles, the manual does not call for this, (159 dollars). Had around 61000 miles on car when I changed the filter.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    This is down my alley. I have an 02 Avalon similar to yours. I own a home, which was not landscaped when purchased. I have done all the landscaping myself, and have towed a 5x8 Worthington aluminum trailer in the process. This is what I have done. I have 93K on the car.

    I change the A/T fluid every 30K, and change the filter(there is a kit) every 60K. I have a tranny magnet on the outside of the tranny pan also. Whenever I have something in the trailer, I always take the OD OFF!!The manager "at the shop" obviously does not know what he is talking about. The manual (service manual)is incomplete.

    The car is rated to 2000lbs, including the trailer and anything in the car. That is not all that much. Light machines, mulch, wood from the hardware store is OK. Dirt I have a little problem with, although now I do not get more than one "scoopful" at a time.

    If you don't OD off, the tranny hunts too much. The 4 gear is too tall for the torque that comes on, about 2000 RPMs in the older models. Swithching the OD off, puts the engine in the perfect torque range for hauling up to its limit. Realize, it is a front driver, and a medium size V6 so it has limits.

    I have not had one bit of problems with the tranny. I had inner CV problems when I bought the car prior to using a trailer but that was a defect from the factory.

    Changing the tranny fluid, every 30-40K, especially when trailing is correct and will keep your tranny from most problems till over 200K. It takes Dexron III same as the power steering, which would also be a good idea to replace at the same time.

    Hope that helps.

    abfisch
  • kjacktownkjacktown Member Posts: 1
    my 2000 Avalon XLS has 123,000 miles and I have made the mistake of never changing the transmission Fluid. I'm having no transmission problems with the car. The dealer told me my fluid was dirty and needed changing along with a new filter.

    My question is, at this point should I bother. I've heard that after such neglect, the grime, metal chips, etc that exist in my old dirty fluid may be the only thing keeping it from slipping.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Here's one opinion: Change it now and do a complete flush as well. If this causes problems, they would have happened anyway. And have been more expensive.

    Your filter quit working a long time ago. The small bypass (probably) is the only thing that has kept you going this long. And the stuff in the fluid is not good for the other parts of the transmission. The manual suggests a mileage limit between changes for a reason. You got lucky, maybe.

    If it works OK and you intend to sell the car, leave it alone. It would be nice if you told the new buyer, but.. that is a personal decision. I drove both a '99 XL and an '03 XL to 90k miles each and the transmissions were perfect. Properly maintained, also. Hope this helps, others may have a different opinion..... Good luck. :)
  • xomamanxomaman Member Posts: 3
    Just to folllow up... I ended up flushing the transmission myself. So far it has been 8 months and everything is fine. The fluid is nice and red. I flushed it myself using instructions I found on the Internet.

    Now that I have done it, I trust doing it myself over a tranny shop because I will use more care and pay more attention.

    It's fairly easy if you have a garage and basic tools. I bought the Dextron III fluid at WalMart. I found that my model Avalon only has a screen as a filter, so I decided not to remove the pan. I had the car on those drive-up ramps while doing this.

    1. I drained the tranny pan, refilled it with new fluid and replaced the plug.

    2. I then removed the tranny return line from the radiator and stuck about 6' of clear 3/8" tubing on there as a return line. The return line then ran into a large container off to the side to hold the old fluid. Use a clear container with quart marks so you can watch it and keep track of how much is coming out. I used a clear 4 gallon cooking oil container. I guess a gallon milk jug could work too. Make sure it won't tip over as it is filling.

    The radiator return line on my Avalon is at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side. Or, if you lift the hood it will be the tranny line on the right as you are looking down. You need to remove the cover plate from under the car to access that area. Have patience, the hose clips and line can be a pain to get off.

    3. I then removed the tranny dipstick and put a tranny fluid funnel in there. Then, with the help of my sexy assistant, I started the car. The tranny will pump the old fluid out and into the container from the exit line. It comes out as a full stream but with not a lot of pressure. It only takes about 30 seconds for a few quarts to come out. I wouldn't do it without an assistant to start and stop the car as you are watching it come out and pouring new fluid in.

    As the car is running, you need to pour new fluid in the filler tube as the old is being pushed out. Do a few quarts at a time at about the same rate as what is being pumped out.

    Eventually the fluid will be coming out clear which means all the old fluid is out. You need to buy a few more quarts than what the tranny holds.

    So...You are basically pouring fresh tranny fluid in the filler tube while the old tranny fluid is being pushed out through the hose you attached to the radiator return line, and this flushes the whole system...get it? That's exactly how it works at the tranny shop for $110 + dollars.

    I used 15 quarts of Penzoil Dextron III. Be careful and don't overfill it. Later check the fluid level several times on level ground as described in the owner manual. It's better to add a quart than having to drain one.

    Here is a link to a Lexus tranny flush tutorial. It's for a Lexus, but the basic idea is the same for the Avalon;

    http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/transflush.html

    Hope this helps.
  • mohullmohull Member Posts: 5
    Hello Guys
    Hope you have a good holiday and weekend and happy fourth of July. I have got a question and I appreciate if you can help me out.
    I have a Avalon XLS 1999. When I change the transmission to R to D or D to P and vice versa the car vibrates or shakes a little. I mean changing transmission is like shaking the car.
    Could you please give a comment about this issue?

    Sincerely :mad:
  • gomst1gomst1 Member Posts: 58
    If vehicle has no engine misfire, I am guessing it could be broken motor mounts. Have your mechanic check it out.
  • mohullmohull Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Gomst1 for your reply. Actually I bought a car last two weeks and it is my first car in this country. Before I used to Manual Transmission cars when I was back in my home country. I did twice something bad when I was changine the transmission. You know for Manual Transmission you do not need to make sure the car is at complete stop and you can change the transmission before complete stop. Unfortunately I did this twice when the car was not 100 % in stop. I changed transmission to Parking and you know it is kind of stupid but I did that.
    For the mechanic I have not shown it to any mechanic yet.
    I appreciate you if you tell me what engine misfire is and how it occurs and also motor mounts. I am new for this car.

    Have a nice day

    :cry:
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The idle air bypass solenoid/assembly is sticking/sticky.

    When you move the shifter from park or neutral into drive or reverse that increases the engine loading so the EFI fuel metering and idle air bypass must be opened up to a slightly higher level. The EFI increases the fuel level instantly but a sticking/sticky idle air bypass would delay having the correct idle A/F mixture.
  • mohullmohull Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Wwest for your response. What you suggest me to do for that?

    Appreciate

    Sincerely
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Have it serviced at Toyota...??
  • mohullmohull Member Posts: 5
    No I did not do any service yet. What do you think about the cost? Or what should I say to mechanic about the problem? What part of that must be changed or removed?

    Sincerely
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    That was my answer to your question...

    Take it to Toyota and have it serviced.
  • mfungafatmfungafat Member Posts: 1
    jimmy22

    I purchased an off lease 2005 and it is great, have a 1996 XL with 245000 miiles still runs great. Search around on the site, some people mention a TSB that fix a transmission hesitation problem. Also if your check engine light comes on or engine misfires you may want to check replacing the ingnition coils. Friend bought a 2005 touring and had to do this due to engine misfire, his car has 37K

    Love my avalons, wife has a 1995 corolla with 167K

    mark
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Might be this TSB:

    ENGINE
    EG033-07

    Title:
    ECM CALIBRATION: ENHANCEMENT
    TO SHIFTING PERFORMANCE
    & SMOOTHNESS

    Models:
    '05 Avalon

    June 20, 2007

    Introduction

    To enhance shifting performance and smoothness during acceleration, the Engine Control Module/ECM (SAE term: Powertrain Control Module/PCM) calibration has been revised and certain fuel control feedback components have been updated. Please use the following procedure to address customer concerns.
    NOTE :Before proceeding, verify the ECM (PCM) calibration has NOT been updated by checking for the Authorized Modifications Label (shown in Figure 11 of the Repair Procedure).

    Applicable Vehicles
    ^ 2005 model year Avalon vehicles.
  • rmg314rmg314 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all !

    I have a 1998 Avalon XLS with 110,000 miles. The problem I am having is with the transmission. It works fine,, shifts fine except when I am starting out from a stop. When I hit the gas, it jumps forward and takes off. Other cars I have owned, it seems like there is a gradual shift into gear without it jerking forward but on this car it feels as if it hits the gear hard and the car jumps forward. I bought the car used last year with 97,000 miles on it so i dont know that much of the car history. I checked the tranny fluid and its clear pink without any unusual odor.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    RMG314
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If you happen to mean "california stops", not quite coming to a full stop, then for a car with that many miles that might be your problem. Otherwise you're probably driving with a transaxle that will soon need a rebuild.
  • nightlingernightlinger Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2000 XLS with 306,000 miles. All I've done is service it every 90,000
    miles when I changed the timing belt. I have had to replace the struts and once
    the ball bearings, but that's it. The motor and transmission run great and I am
    told by the oil change folks the oil is as clear as a new car. In fact, I am wondering
    what failure is most likely to leave me "high and dry" while on the road?

    Sim
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    More modern, say beginning in '98, FWD & F/AWD vehicles DO NOT downshift into 1st gear during lift throttle coastdown periods until/unless the vehicle comes to a full and complete stop. If you happen to try to accelerate just prior to this downshift you will always get a jerky acceleration.

    You can somewhat avoid this "feature" via manually downshifting into first as you roll to(ward) a stop, and before gas pedal depression.

    Later models use DBW to prevent a rise in engine RPM until the downshift is complete, softening the GO...

    You might also want a technician to check for slack in the (cable) coupling from the gas pedal to the throttle butterfly valve.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    AAA reports that most breakdowns on the road are due to fairly simple things like bad belts, hoses, blow-outs.

    If you've never had radiator renewed or new water pump, you're pushing your luck there. If you've never had a catalytic converter, then it's well beyond its life span.

    Also I'd put your car on the lift and have things tightened up and checked for structural issues, like cracks in suspension mounts. Also a good time to check for leaks, including oil, water and exhaust.
  • niko_lane85niko_lane85 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Toyota Avalon with a leaking transmission. My car is in really good condition, but does have 203k miles on it. She runs well, and has been really well taken care of, but that pesky tranny leak is getting to be an issue. I keep adding fluid and adding a sealer to it to keep it from leaking but it still loses about 2 quarts every 6 weeks or so. I read on another site that resealing the entire transmission would stop the leaking, but I don't know how to do that and I would prefer to do it myself, rather than take it to a mechanic.

    Does anyone know how to:

    how to reseal the entire transmission toyota avalon 1995??

    OR

    Have any other suggestions on how to stop the transmission from leaking????

    Any suggestions are MUCH needed and welcome!!!!! I LOVE my car and don't want to get rid of her! I know that she can be fixed! She's a GREAT car, she just needs a little TLC! PLEASE HELP!!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It really depends on where it's leaking as to what you can and can't do yourself.

    I don't think adding sealer is a good idea, but at this point the damage has been done. Sealers swell the seals up and they usually don't work anyway, especially on the types of seals that work on rotating shafts.
  • spuds51spuds51 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Avalon that has been very reliable with all scheduled maintenance (every 3 months), other than a replaced catalytic converter and brakes last year. But for two days now, I have had to park it on a level spot in my yard rather than my barely-sloped driveway, as it won't lock into park and begins to roll back when I lift my foot from the brake. I'm wondering if anyone can offer an educated diagnosis before I take it in for a possibly expensive check-up. Thanks in advance for any help.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You should be using, primarily, the parking, or E-brake when parking on an incline. Using only "park" can result in the vehicle sliding, spontaneously sliding (middle of the night) on a slippery/icy inclined surface.
  • popsavalonpopsavalon Member Posts: 231
    When a vehicle transmission is placed in "park", the transmission is either mechanically or electrically locked up. Some part of this mechanism is either broken or not working on your 2000 Avalon, and it probably can only be correctly fixed by "expensive check up and repair", since transmission repairs usually fix that description.

    The solution of using the parking brake should be considered a temporary fix at best, until the real problem is corrected.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited January 2011
    Why do you consider the use of the parking brake only a temporary fix..?

    Using the shift lever park position only locks the driveline, therefore only locking the drive wheel with the most traction. Put one drive wheel on a slippery surface, ice, and the open diff'l will undoubtedly do it's thing, allowing the tractionless tire to roll, FREELY roll, backwards to the direction of motion, DOWN the incline.
  • tjc78tjc78 Member Posts: 15,852
    Not that I am disagreeing with your statements, but how many people you know actually use a parking brake with an automatic transmission unless they are parked on fairly steep incline?

    If the OP's car used to stay put in park and now it doesn't something needs repair.

    2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve

  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Personally If I couldn't somehow fix it myself I wouldn't spend the money to have it fixed, just use the e-brake.
  • tjc78tjc78 Member Posts: 15,852
    That would be my choice as well, especially on an older car.

    2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve

  • popsavalonpopsavalon Member Posts: 231
    A recipe for disaster. If another person drives the vehicle (or the owner forgets) and uses the non-working transmission "park", the vehicle is basically left in neutral to roll wherever.

    As tjc78 says, most folks do not use the e-brake to park.

    I would consider a vehicle with a non-working transmission park position to be a safety hazard with possible liability.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You've never heard of PLACARDING the dashboard..?
  • popsavalonpopsavalon Member Posts: 231
    My Avalon dashboard doesn't have a PLACARD holder.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Gorilla Glue....
  • jothevirgojothevirgo Member Posts: 1
    my daughter bought a 1995 avalon xls in sac cali. they test drove it for a little while and found no problem. the time they spent driving it from sac did not have any problem until they get to daly city cali which is about in between 130 to 150 miles away, started jerking and stopped running. engine runs well but i smell like burning oil or fluid by the tranny. it will drive after 5 mins of rest (i turn the engine off and start it again after 5 mins then drive but starts to jerk especially uphill). did these things happen to anyone here? by the way the car has 223000 miles in it. is it a transmission issue or what? checked the fluid and theres like near cold level in dip stick.
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