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Toyota Avalon (Prior to 2005) Transmission Questions
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Comments
I have change my ATF three times, twice with a filter. I only have an XL, but no error codes ever came on anywhere.
abfisch
Any suggestions on how we might get the company to really help fix this problem? Or, is this a lost cause?
Fessor
Something isn't right here---either the installation is wrong, or the source of the "rebuilts" is dubious.
If you can swing it, wipe the slate clean....ask for a rebuilt from Toyota (not yours rebuilt by a local subcontractor of the dealer) and have the dealer install it. That way, you get the unit's warranty and the dealer's labor warranty.
They are either building it wrong or installing it wrong.
I have 2002 Avalon with about 22,000 miles on it. I have owned it since it had about 3,000 miles, for about 3 years. I never beat on it or drive it in severe conditions.
I have regularly changed the oil and checked the transmission fluid level. This time I checked the transmission fluid level I noticed it was brown. I don't remember seeing it dark before, and I know I have checked it. I know it is supposed to be red, unless Toyota uses some sort of dark OEM fluid.
So I had the tranny flushed and replaced with new Dextron III fluid. The manual and dipstick says use Dextron II or III for this year.
I was wondering if anyone knew what might have caused the dark fluid with such low miles. I know high mileage cars that have never had the transmission fluid changed could have this problem, but I have never seen it happen on such a low mileage car.
The car runs like a top, has never had any shifting or transmission slipping. That's another thing that confuses me, but I never push the car either.
Thanks -Xman
Some might advise you to install an auxillary ATF cooler and I would agree that it might help. My reluctance is based on the fact that my 2001 RX300 has the factory auxilary cooler and yet my ATF was BURNED (absolutely NO towing nor rough service) at only 40,000 miles. Then again the RX is much heavier....
Here is my experince. I have an 02 Avalon also. I do tow(utility trailer 5 x 8), sometimes too heavy, but I have cut back now. I have 92K on the car. I have no tranny problems. I change the fluid mostly myself, every 30K, and alternate every other change with a filter too. I also have put a heavy duty magnet for A/T on the bottom of the pan, on the outside.
I have never flushed it nor do I intend to. I have no problems with this A/T at this point in time and mileage.
An aside from the constant tranny changes ever 30-40K would be to let you foot pressure off the accelerator at the appropriate shift points. This not only enhances the smoothness of the shift but will prolong the trannys life.
I am not sure why all the hype about tranny coolers. The car can only tow up to 2000lbs anyway, and I have seen very few Avalons even towing. And if you are driving this car hard for sport, you kinda got the wrong the car.
Another elusive point, although well trusted, if not overfilling the tranny too. It takes a long time to fill it, unlike an oil change as you have to do it in little amounts. No mechanic on shop time is going to do it perfectly, just not a money maker. Something to be aware of. When I had one mechanic do it, it was overfilled and I had to let out some Dexron III. Never again. It is too easy to do myself.
abfisch
I have a 2002 Avalon with 31,000 miles. Also found dark transmission fluid. Just had the transmission flushed. I too have never experienced any slipping but obviously concerned.
Has any one else found dark trans fluid at such low miles? Any trans failures?
Thanks
Dano
We drove an '03 XL to 90k, changed the fluid twice and did a flush both times (not really necessary to flush each time.) Never missed a beat and the fluid was always darker when it came out than when it went in. Enjoy your Avalon...
I change the A/T fluid every 30K, and change the filter(there is a kit) every 60K. I have a tranny magnet on the outside of the tranny pan also. Whenever I have something in the trailer, I always take the OD OFF!!The manager "at the shop" obviously does not know what he is talking about. The manual (service manual)is incomplete.
The car is rated to 2000lbs, including the trailer and anything in the car. That is not all that much. Light machines, mulch, wood from the hardware store is OK. Dirt I have a little problem with, although now I do not get more than one "scoopful" at a time.
If you don't OD off, the tranny hunts too much. The 4 gear is too tall for the torque that comes on, about 2000 RPMs in the older models. Swithching the OD off, puts the engine in the perfect torque range for hauling up to its limit. Realize, it is a front driver, and a medium size V6 so it has limits.
I have not had one bit of problems with the tranny. I had inner CV problems when I bought the car prior to using a trailer but that was a defect from the factory.
Changing the tranny fluid, every 30-40K, especially when trailing is correct and will keep your tranny from most problems till over 200K. It takes Dexron III same as the power steering, which would also be a good idea to replace at the same time.
Hope that helps.
abfisch
My question is, at this point should I bother. I've heard that after such neglect, the grime, metal chips, etc that exist in my old dirty fluid may be the only thing keeping it from slipping.
Your filter quit working a long time ago. The small bypass (probably) is the only thing that has kept you going this long. And the stuff in the fluid is not good for the other parts of the transmission. The manual suggests a mileage limit between changes for a reason. You got lucky, maybe.
If it works OK and you intend to sell the car, leave it alone. It would be nice if you told the new buyer, but.. that is a personal decision. I drove both a '99 XL and an '03 XL to 90k miles each and the transmissions were perfect. Properly maintained, also. Hope this helps, others may have a different opinion..... Good luck.
Now that I have done it, I trust doing it myself over a tranny shop because I will use more care and pay more attention.
It's fairly easy if you have a garage and basic tools. I bought the Dextron III fluid at WalMart. I found that my model Avalon only has a screen as a filter, so I decided not to remove the pan. I had the car on those drive-up ramps while doing this.
1. I drained the tranny pan, refilled it with new fluid and replaced the plug.
2. I then removed the tranny return line from the radiator and stuck about 6' of clear 3/8" tubing on there as a return line. The return line then ran into a large container off to the side to hold the old fluid. Use a clear container with quart marks so you can watch it and keep track of how much is coming out. I used a clear 4 gallon cooking oil container. I guess a gallon milk jug could work too. Make sure it won't tip over as it is filling.
The radiator return line on my Avalon is at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side. Or, if you lift the hood it will be the tranny line on the right as you are looking down. You need to remove the cover plate from under the car to access that area. Have patience, the hose clips and line can be a pain to get off.
3. I then removed the tranny dipstick and put a tranny fluid funnel in there. Then, with the help of my sexy assistant, I started the car. The tranny will pump the old fluid out and into the container from the exit line. It comes out as a full stream but with not a lot of pressure. It only takes about 30 seconds for a few quarts to come out. I wouldn't do it without an assistant to start and stop the car as you are watching it come out and pouring new fluid in.
As the car is running, you need to pour new fluid in the filler tube as the old is being pushed out. Do a few quarts at a time at about the same rate as what is being pumped out.
Eventually the fluid will be coming out clear which means all the old fluid is out. You need to buy a few more quarts than what the tranny holds.
So...You are basically pouring fresh tranny fluid in the filler tube while the old tranny fluid is being pushed out through the hose you attached to the radiator return line, and this flushes the whole system...get it? That's exactly how it works at the tranny shop for $110 + dollars.
I used 15 quarts of Penzoil Dextron III. Be careful and don't overfill it. Later check the fluid level several times on level ground as described in the owner manual. It's better to add a quart than having to drain one.
Here is a link to a Lexus tranny flush tutorial. It's for a Lexus, but the basic idea is the same for the Avalon;
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/transflush.html
Hope this helps.
Hope you have a good holiday and weekend and happy fourth of July. I have got a question and I appreciate if you can help me out.
I have a Avalon XLS 1999. When I change the transmission to R to D or D to P and vice versa the car vibrates or shakes a little. I mean changing transmission is like shaking the car.
Could you please give a comment about this issue?
Sincerely :mad:
For the mechanic I have not shown it to any mechanic yet.
I appreciate you if you tell me what engine misfire is and how it occurs and also motor mounts. I am new for this car.
Have a nice day
When you move the shifter from park or neutral into drive or reverse that increases the engine loading so the EFI fuel metering and idle air bypass must be opened up to a slightly higher level. The EFI increases the fuel level instantly but a sticking/sticky idle air bypass would delay having the correct idle A/F mixture.
Appreciate
Sincerely
Sincerely
Take it to Toyota and have it serviced.
I purchased an off lease 2005 and it is great, have a 1996 XL with 245000 miiles still runs great. Search around on the site, some people mention a TSB that fix a transmission hesitation problem. Also if your check engine light comes on or engine misfires you may want to check replacing the ingnition coils. Friend bought a 2005 touring and had to do this due to engine misfire, his car has 37K
Love my avalons, wife has a 1995 corolla with 167K
mark
ENGINE
EG033-07
Title:
ECM CALIBRATION: ENHANCEMENT
TO SHIFTING PERFORMANCE
& SMOOTHNESS
Models:
'05 Avalon
June 20, 2007
Introduction
To enhance shifting performance and smoothness during acceleration, the Engine Control Module/ECM (SAE term: Powertrain Control Module/PCM) calibration has been revised and certain fuel control feedback components have been updated. Please use the following procedure to address customer concerns.
NOTE :Before proceeding, verify the ECM (PCM) calibration has NOT been updated by checking for the Authorized Modifications Label (shown in Figure 11 of the Repair Procedure).
Applicable Vehicles
^ 2005 model year Avalon vehicles.
I have a 1998 Avalon XLS with 110,000 miles. The problem I am having is with the transmission. It works fine,, shifts fine except when I am starting out from a stop. When I hit the gas, it jumps forward and takes off. Other cars I have owned, it seems like there is a gradual shift into gear without it jerking forward but on this car it feels as if it hits the gear hard and the car jumps forward. I bought the car used last year with 97,000 miles on it so i dont know that much of the car history. I checked the tranny fluid and its clear pink without any unusual odor.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
RMG314
miles when I changed the timing belt. I have had to replace the struts and once
the ball bearings, but that's it. The motor and transmission run great and I am
told by the oil change folks the oil is as clear as a new car. In fact, I am wondering
what failure is most likely to leave me "high and dry" while on the road?
Sim
You can somewhat avoid this "feature" via manually downshifting into first as you roll to(ward) a stop, and before gas pedal depression.
Later models use DBW to prevent a rise in engine RPM until the downshift is complete, softening the GO...
You might also want a technician to check for slack in the (cable) coupling from the gas pedal to the throttle butterfly valve.
If you've never had radiator renewed or new water pump, you're pushing your luck there. If you've never had a catalytic converter, then it's well beyond its life span.
Also I'd put your car on the lift and have things tightened up and checked for structural issues, like cracks in suspension mounts. Also a good time to check for leaks, including oil, water and exhaust.
Does anyone know how to:
how to reseal the entire transmission toyota avalon 1995??
OR
Have any other suggestions on how to stop the transmission from leaking????
Any suggestions are MUCH needed and welcome!!!!! I LOVE my car and don't want to get rid of her! I know that she can be fixed! She's a GREAT car, she just needs a little TLC! PLEASE HELP!!!!!
I don't think adding sealer is a good idea, but at this point the damage has been done. Sealers swell the seals up and they usually don't work anyway, especially on the types of seals that work on rotating shafts.
The solution of using the parking brake should be considered a temporary fix at best, until the real problem is corrected.
Using the shift lever park position only locks the driveline, therefore only locking the drive wheel with the most traction. Put one drive wheel on a slippery surface, ice, and the open diff'l will undoubtedly do it's thing, allowing the tractionless tire to roll, FREELY roll, backwards to the direction of motion, DOWN the incline.
If the OP's car used to stay put in park and now it doesn't something needs repair.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
As tjc78 says, most folks do not use the e-brake to park.
I would consider a vehicle with a non-working transmission park position to be a safety hazard with possible liability.