Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

mnmkennedy · January 2006

Must be a cursed area. We had similar problems in the Dallas area as well as we were vacationing. We had many different repairs done but the repair that I believe fixed it was new distributor.

goodcar · January 2006

:confuse: Did you ever get to the bottom of your cold starting problems?? We recently sold a very nice 95 Quest with 88k miles, loaded with every option for $3500. Now that the weather has turned cold it is almost impossible to start. Once started it runs fine, and will continue to re start. Problem seems to only occur when aprox 45 or less. We believe it is a fuel problem. Have checked all sensors, replaced all secondary ignition parts(plugs, cap, rotor, coil etc...) Checked fuel pressure, injector pulse, cleaned injectors, intake and valves. We also borrowed a CPU from a friends salvage yard, and replaced a mas-airflow sensor. Once started it runs very well. If we add fuel to the intake through a vacuum line it starts right up, so the problem is fuel related. We are leaning to replacing the fuel injectors, but that is an expensive proposition. We have checked and scanned just about everything else. Please tell me that you figured it out.

goodcar · January 2006

:confuse: Did you ever get to the bottom of your cold starting problems?? We recently sold a very nice 95 Quest with 88k miles, loaded with every option for $3500. Now that the weather has turned cold it is almost impossible to start. Once started it runs fine, and will continue to re start. Problem seems to only occur when aprox 45 or less. We believe it is a fuel problem. Have checked all sensors, replaced all secondary ignition parts(plugs cap rotor coil etc...) Checked fuel pressure, injector pulse, cleaned injectors, intake and valves. We also borrowed a CPU from a friends salvage yard, and replaced a mass airflow sensor. Once started it runs very well. If we add fuel to the intake through a vacuum line it starts right up, so the problem is fuel related. We are leaning to replacing the fuel injectors, but that is an expensive proposition. We have checked and scanned just about everything else. Please tell me that you figured it out.

motts · January 2006

Hey Guys, the rollar coaster ride begins again with the beige mobile.
The past 2 months I have had the problem with the stubborn van not wanting to start. It seems to want to start when it's been resting for longer than a couple of hours but when we drive the vehicle then park for say 10 to 20 minutes it does not want to start.When I turn the Egnition switch to on position it does not turn over at all. I have taken the battery to check OK. My mechanic has replaced the negative ground wire from the battery to starter.Boy have I had my problems with this vehicle. It really has been quite the "QUEST" to fix this piece of metal. Motts :sick:

chevybarn · January 2006

Have problems with 95 Villager starting on rainy days. The engine turns over but will not crank. No problems starting when it is a bright sunny day. Any ideas?

jethead1 · January 2006

it sounds like a throttle position sensor going out..those can also be intermittent

cmitchell5 · January 2006

Well I believe you are partially right. After I removed the TPS and messed with it for a minute I didn't think the max and min readings were correct. Anyways, I reinstalled the TPS, I put it in wrong the first time, i set it at .47 volts because it drops about 1 when you are running. It ran rough for about 2 days, smoothed out now. And guess what, the ever present check engine light has either burned out, hehe, or I actually fixed something.
By the way if you are ever installing a TPS, ensure that you have the arm that catches the throttle body arm on the right side of each other. You will know if you don't because you will never get the correct voltage.

twindan · January 2006

I have a 1993 nissan quest and kind of had similar problems, I had the fuel pump changed out and now it starts right up every time. The mechanic told me that something in the fuel pump was clogged or something.

motts · January 2006

Mechanic just recently replaced starter and have not had the problem re-occur.( Knocking on wood ) Still trying to solve the rear blower/heat not working, Motts

steven38 · January 2006

Had similiar problem with my 95 Villager.Replace FICD relay in relay box situated on left side of engine compartment.Stands for "Fast Idle Control Device".Trust me,this is most often overlooked when addressing stalling issue with Quest/Villager that
coommonly aflicts these vehicles.

motts · January 2006

Hey guys, I'm not sure if you had the same problem as my 94 quest stalling. The van would stall when I would be slowing down specifically turning around the corner. The engine rpm gauge would jump/bounce below 500 and often stall the vehicle. I had the dealership replace the Air Idle Control Valve. That problem happened 3 years ago and have not occured again, hope this helps your "QUEST/VILLAGER", Motts :lemon:

steven38 · January 2006

Pretty much identical stalling characteristics to my Villager.However, rather than replacing entire Idle Control Valve,I replaced the FICD relay instead as this was the reason the Idle Control Valve wasn't working.The different terminologies,"Fast Idle Control Device" and "Idle Control Valve" are part the same unit working in conjunction with a relay.Just want to clear up some confusion.

mucho · March 2006

Hello, I have the same problem that Mitch in Missouri is having with his Quest. On long hills my Quest will run fine up to a certain point when suddenly it will begin to shudder, lose power and finaly come to a stop. Regardless of how much fuel I give it. After I sit on the side of the road for 10 min. or so it runs fine (unless the hill continues for more miles in which case the whole thing starts over again).

Other than this my van runs great I love it. I have had the knock sensor fixed, replaced the belts and wires, had the intake manifold rebuilt but nothing changes this problem.

The last time this happened as I was sitting on the side of the road waiting for my engine to cool down another 99 Quest packed full with 5 people raced past me going up the same hill I had been trying to climb?!!

Does anyone have any clues to this problem? Mitch~ were you able to figure out how to fix your van.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

thanks :confuse:

stigmata · March 2006

That sounds alot like what happened to me when I lost my fuel pump.

stephaniet · March 2006

I have a 94 nissan quest. It start and then died. It want's to start but will not turn over. Any ideals??

randeis · April 2006

Same exact problem on 1994 Villager. Six Mercury dealers couldn't read computer codes, nor could they fix it. Ford Motor Company (Mercury) service center won't answer emails. 1 Nissan dealer said they could read the codes but refused to work on a Mercury Villager. 3 top independent mechanics have given up.

One dealer changed fuel pump. . . $700
Another dealer changed timing chain. . . $500
Another dealer changed Mass Airflow Sensor. . . $300
Another dealer wanted to change timing chain. . .again
Pep Boys read codes. Said leaky fuel injector. . . $60
Injectors initial inspection passed.
Changed all plugs, wires and rotor. . . $300
All dealers (and others) said they could not read codes, due to the period in 1994, when Nissan switched from standard codes to a proprietary system, then immediately switched back.

Symptoms:
In neutral, engine races as normal and sounds great.
In drive with foot on brake, engine bogs down heavily and won't pass 2000 rpm, yet sucks fuel.
When placing in drive, engine struggles to move vehicle at first. Then after car becomes "lighter" due to moving at 20mph or so, the load is effectively taken away. Car surges, RPM spikes and we are off to the races with plenty of power.
Intermittent stalling on idle after movement, such as at stop sign.

144k mileage. No more than 100 miles in the past 2 years running from repair shop to repair shop.

If anyone has resolved a similar problem, please post it here. Also, feel free to write me at my email address.

Thanks, Rande

jrossman · April 2006

I would reccomend checking the Distributor. I had exactly the same symptoms with a 96 and found the distributor to be the cause of all the problems.

Joe

dmbslc · May 2006

Hello Daryljoe,

I was curious if you ever found out what was causing your problems when it warmed up? My 95 villager is doing the exact same thing.

Thanks.

quester · May 2006

This would be an easy one for the mechanic, he only needed to switch two spark plug wires for this effect. Sounds fishy to me as well. I don't think I'd ever go back to that mechanic again. Be careful what you say about him, but I'd let my friends know about this experience and advise them to stay away.

fljewels · July 2006

Recently my van has seemed sluggish to want to start. Sometimes it starts up just fine, other times it acts as if it is not going to start. It also doesn't seem to make any difference if it has been started recently or been sitting all day or night. It sounds as if there is plenty of power to start, it just doesn't want to turn over. Had the battery checked and it was fine. Read on another site that this problem could be caused by one or more of the following: fuel filter, fuel pump, starter, alternator, or timing belt/chain. Where should I start first? Is there more than one fuel filter and pump? Does my van have a belt or chain? and How much is a reasonable cost for getting the timing belt/chain changed? I don't have the tools or space for DIY type of repairs so I will have to take it to a repair shop.
Thanks,
fljewels

athiker95 · August 2006

Might need a fuel pump. I just bought a '95 Villager with 187K on it and it was hard to start. Also started hearing a humming noise coming from underneath van, which I found out was a sign that the pump was going bad. Replaced it and the van starts immediately now.

Mark

mlematuza · August 2006

:sick: We have had the worst summer ever with car issues. Please help. It all started with a mechanic that needed money and created problems we did not have for our car. We brought it to him for a shifting/power problem. He determined it was lack of fuel getting to engine and replaced the fuel pump/fuel filter(we never had starting problems), spark plugs/wires(had just been done!)for about $600. We left his shop and the van was hesitating horrible shifting up from 2nd to 3rd. We took it back and he said he really wanted to change the timing belt for another $400. We left not to return. We ended up eventually after a bunch of mechanic guesses determined the shifting problem was from the MAF screen was clogged with debris. We had the $10 screen replaced and it drove good as new.

The van has 87,000 miles on it. This is now 2 months after the first mechanic ripped us off. It was never fuel pump/filter, plugs and wires from what we can tell. Now we are having a starting problem. We found a great mechanic but he says he has ruled everything but the fuel pump out. What do we do? Have any of you had a bad fuel pump? Not to mention one that was just put in for no reason? We are sick over it and just don't know where to turn. The fuel pump he put in was a Master E2067.

:confuse: The symptoms are it just cranks and cranks and eventually turns over. There is definitely a buzzing noise that happens under the van when you turn the key.

We did contact the original mechanic but the warranty on the part is only good if he replaces it which he won't do for free. He also says since other mechanics have touched the engine since him, how can we prove it is his work?

:mad: After investing $1400 worth of useless work trying to find a clogged MAF screen, do we keep this vehicle? It has 87K and we have loved it otherwise. It is that hard to figure out what goes wrong with these? We know we have a timing belt to do soon and with the money in it, we just are not sure.

So, if any of you have any fuel pump experience or at least starting problems, please let us know.
Thanks

stigmata · August 2006

My fuel pump went out on my 95 villager. I was stopping and it began to hesitate and then just died. My 99 fuel pump is also going. It almost never starts on the first time. I wouldnt wait, because when it goes, you're stuck.

toomanyfumes · August 2006

I had starting problems on my 2001 Villager. Very hard to start, would start then die, unles you kept your foot on the gas. The problem ended up being the fuel pressure regulator.

athiker95 · August 2006

I recently bought a '95 Villager with 187K on it. After the first week, I noticed a humming noise that grew louder and louder and sounded like ti was coming from underneath the vehicle on the driver side. Turned out to be the fuel pump. The van had been hard to start as well. Replaced it and all is well now.

johnny23 · August 2006

The following has happened to me twice: I park the car. When I come back a short while later, the engine does not turn over AT ALL, as if the battery is totall dead (no sound at all), however, the radio and lights are fine. I try this a few times over the next 1/2 hour, no luck. I come back a few hours later and it starts fine, no problem whatsoever.

Exactly the same sceanior has happened twice over the last 2 weeks. The only other time the engine did not turn over at all like this was a few years ago when the alarm was triggered (no alarm was triggered this time).

Any ideas as to what the problem is? Thank much for your help.

scottmsimpson · August 2006

We had a similar issue on our 95 Villager a few years ago. Turned out to be a relay (under the hood). There are two identical relays. The dealer swapped them until the ordered one came in. Some other items did not work during this time, but I forget which. It was things like radio and wipers.

johnny23 · September 2006

Wow, wasn't expecting anyone to have been through the same experience. Thanks a lot for the information!

toomanyfumes · September 2006

Well our Villager is up to it again. Cranks and starts but then dies unless you keep your foot on the gas. Same problem we had before they replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I think that was about a year ago, I wonder if the new part is bad already?

toomanyfumes · September 2006

Well, put the fuel pressure regulator in last night. The screws were hard to get at, but it's in. Van is running fine. BTW, the part I ordered online (autopartswarehouse.com, carjunky.com) ended up being a genuine Nissan part. $90.00 including shipping compared to $210.00 at the dealer.

minsid · February 2007

When I start the van it starts sputtering... the rpms go up and down and as it gets low it starts to die... unless i hit gas....

what could be the issue?

dtownfb · February 2007

Need more info like year, model, miles, etc.

mmof3bys · February 2007

This is what mine is doing! Mine is a 2000 Nissan Quest GXE, approx 75,000 miles. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Kelly

minsid · February 2007

1997 Nissan Quest...

142,000 miles

wolf1469 · March 2007

Well folks, seems mine has joined the list of vehicles with the same problem. Starts while cold, runs up to about normal operating temp then spits, sputters and dies. So far, have replaced cam sensor, O2S sensor, and plugs. BTW for those not getting accurate codes, the plugs are very specific with this model engine. (Found that out the hard way). I have been told there is a TSB that covers the issue recommending the fuel pump check valve be replaced. Any others already done this? :mad:

rparrott · April 2007

We have just purchased a 1993 Mercury Villager LS with 65000 miles on it. Front or rear air was not working and I found the solder fix and my husband and I fixed that. It does not have any sound coming out of the speakers. I bought a replacement unit for the rear but it did not do anything. I will wait on that. I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper with 110000 miles on it until 120000 miles on it . So while it is still in warranty so we thought we would go ahead and sell it. I have had to put a new transmission in the Trooper at 80000 miles and it did not cost me a penny. That is the only time it was in the shop. So at this point I'm not sure I want to sell it. My new problem started yesterday when I had the over drive turned on it started acting like it was trying to jump out of gear or stalling. When I turned the over drive off it cleared up. Today on the way to breakfast it did the same thing along with a miss ever once in while at idle. I was concerned I would not get it back home but we did. Only after turning off the over drive again. Please let me know if any one has had this problem. Watch for a Villager fully loaded for sale in Texas.

sb4774 · July 2007

I was backing up and the driver side door was left open. Next thing i knew, it caught on a fencepost and was bent backwards like it wasn't supposed to be. So now the door is bent on its hinges and it will not shut. My question is about the engine. For some reason when I bent the door the engine shut off, and now it will not start. The starter is working, so there is no battery problem, but the engine will not run. Could this have something to do with an "auto shut off mechanism" built into the car? If someone would offer advice on how i could get this thing started it wouldbe greatly appreciated.

harop · July 2007

Nothing to worry about, here is the "copy-paste" from 97 Quest User's Manual :

Inirtia Fuel Shut-Off Switch

The switch can be triggered on accidents or even on bump.
If the vehicle cranks but does not start, then:

1. Turn the key in the ignition OFF.
2. Check Under the vehicle for leaking fuel....
3. If you do not see or smell fuel, push down the red reset button on the fuel pump shut-off switch.
4. Turn the ignition key ON (not start) for a few seconds then turn it off.
5. Check for fuel leak or smell, and if no problem then
START the engine.

Now you wander where is the "Inirtia Fuel Shut-Off Switch".
It is next to the parking brake pedal, on the left side,
and is visiable from drivers seat.

The above 5 step procedure is safe and important to follow.
If you skip 4, then it may not start, because you need to
run your fuel pump for a few seconds to get fuel pumped
into engine. In fact you may need to do this more than once.
You will hear fuel pump running.

Good Luck,
-haro

claudinemj · July 2007

Hi All,

I have a 99 Quest with 130k miles on it. It pretty much runs fine except in the last year or so things are just starting to "go" on it. The speedometer would act up after tons of rain by jumping from 0 to 90 while driving. Then, after a few days it was fine. Now it completely stopped working and my OD light flashes when I first start it up and my CEL is always on. It used to come on and off eventually (i really think it's gas quality related). Anyway, the one thing that it does which is troubling as I'm driving around with 3 kids is that it will suddenly start to act as if it's going to stall or not getting gas. I can be driving along and the gas pedal feels spongy and the car does not respond to my giving it more gas. It just starts to sputter and shake like it's going to die but it doesn't. I pull over, it recovers, and when I start up again it does it again. Eventually, it stops altogether and the car runs fine.

I've called the car repair shop and they tell me that since they can't replicate the issue it's hard for them to fix it. I don't understand this--what happened to the days when you said, "it makes this noise whenever i do x" and the mechanic said, 'oh.. it may be a zippy doodle.." and that was that???

We are at the point where we are wondering if the car is not reliable and if we should buy a new van. I like this one but can't be wondering if I'm going to stall out somewhere and the car certainly isn't worth tons of money for repairs (right??). Any help is greatly appreciated.

Claudine

efitzgerald · August 2007

I have had the same problem. 98 Mercury villager 269000 kms. I spent 1600 dollars from a less than repetuable nation wide store/garage. Changed plugs wires, rotor/cap,fuel injection throttle body flush, nothing worked out. Told to change catalict convertor, still not right, finally took to ford dealer and put on a oxygen sensor, still not right, finally paid for a ford diagonstic, came up that i needed a knock sensor, still not right, ford had to call the ford hotline for answers, ford paid for a rental for 3 days before they figured what the problems was- a ground wire was loose on the ecm (computer) ford fixed it for free. symtoms were - started fine when cold ran fine until it warmed up, them it shook and sputtered, rpm gauge started to dance no power at all, never died on me but couldnt get up hills , so if this sounds familiar, check ground wires to computer. best of luck.

aseitz · August 2007

We are having similar problems with our 00 Villager. Once the car is warm, the OD light will flash 16 times when you start it. It does not do this the first time you start it in the morning. The check engine light is on with a code P0500 (VSS). The speedo works just fine. Every once in a while, it will do the stalling/hesitation thing as well. If you put it in neutral when it does this and then back in drive, the problem goes away. To date, we/I have changed the VSS and have spent a bunch of time using a high dollar scanner which will let us reset the check engine light but it always comes back on right at 50 miles. It is currently in the shop for the second time. The first shop (one that I do trust) could not figure it out after 4 days. We're stuck at this point. It needs a state inspection but it will not pass with the check engine light on or with it cleared as it'll show "not ready" in the state system. Any ideas greatly appreciated! :sick:

aseitz · August 2007

Just got the car back from the second shop - who also put up the white flag. Went and changed out the transmission control module yesterday when I got home from the shop. No go. Same symptoms. The check engine light has not reappeared (YET) so maybe we'll be able to get it inspected. Will try the cruise control module next, I guess. Anyone have any suggestions? Please?
Andy

claudinemj · August 2007

Well, here's what's happened. The computer was showing a "knock" code and also a speed sensor code. We changed the fuel filter which was very gunked up. TOok the car home and it still hesitated a few times. Hesitate is really not the right word. It acts exactly as it would if it ran out of gas. They checked the fuel pump and said that it was putting out the correct amount of pressure. The stalling effect is only when I'm accelerating. If I let off the gas when it acts up, it stops doing it. But, the entire episode can last several minutes. It never completely stalls.

I just had the speed sensor replaced and it's been 2 weeks with NO issues. Crossing fingers!!!!!

aseitz · August 2007

Had to replace our battery Friday. When we replaced it, the CEL went off and actually stayed off for 271 miles. Thought we were home free and then it came back on. Drats!

Sounds like the VSS was your issue. We replaced ours but still have the same problems. Will try yet another shop this week. Can anyone diagnose vehicles any more?
Andy

pegkemp · August 2007

did you ever get the relay's switched, and did it work?
we have had this phantom starting problem for the past 6 years, and have replaced everything "electrical"... and I was stranded today for 3 hours... then I get in, and it starts right up... have had it towed MANY times, but it always starts for the mechanic, with no indication of a problem. If I go to the shop, and say "replace the two identical relays under the hood" will they know what I mean?
other than that, this car has been GREAT. 213K miles and going strong.

llindsey · September 2007

My villager just started doing this this summer. And really only when we run the air conditioner. I figured it was the fuel pump but haven't got it replaced yet. Let me know what you end up finding out.

thedoghouse2 · September 2007

Hello,

I had my 2001 Nissan Quest in the dealer service shop for 3 full days and kept going online to give them all the info out here we could find on the same exact problem. My speedometer dances or goes to 0 while I am driving and the car hesitates and sputters as if I am running out of gas as you described. I thought it used to be related to every time I had my air conditioner on. But I have turned it off in the last week and it doesn't recover like it did a month ago when this problem started happening.

When Nissan service checked the ground wire and the speed sensor (and every other sensor) it all tested fine. They said it would have to completely fail before they know exactly what it is.

How is your car doing now after replacing the speed sensor? Still no recurrence of the sputtering? I am ready to tell them to replace it and see how it goes.

Thanks a lot.

claudinemj · September 2007

Well, since the SS was replaced there have been NO instances of the problem again. I think it's been almost a month and I've driven several hundred miles on it. (we went on a trip, and no problems at all) I don't know if it was a combination of the SS and the fuel filter being replaced, but I think the SS did it.

You should know that the SS when it first started going was always acting up and didn't throw the CEL on until it completely died. When I had taken it to the shop, the CEL had gone back out so they were unable to get a reading. It wasn't until the SS completely failed (stopped working at ALL) that the CEL stayed on and they told me to replace it. Your symptoms though are classic for SS. It's a relatively cheap fix, so why not go for it and hope for the best??

Hope it works out for you!!

gyates · September 2007

When you were having the sputtering problem, did your van also shift hard from 1-2? My uncle has a 96 with 174k and it has recently developed this odd problem. Runs fine up to full operating temperature, then the first symptom is the idle becomes erratic. After idle goes erratic, the hard shift starts. So far, he has replaced the throttle position sensor, which did not resolve the issue. And, to clarify, when I say hard shift, I mean it would make the whole van "jump" when shifting. Any help appreciated.

larson7078 · September 2007

I have a 1999 Mercury Villager with 123K miles. No problems until yesterday. 3 times the motor quite, clock reset and all power seemed to be lost. The vehicle keep going after this 1-2 second kill. Looked under the hood and could not see anything on cabling that was shorting. Looking for help.
Don Larson

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

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