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Comments
The past 2 months I have had the problem with the stubborn van not wanting to start. It seems to want to start when it's been resting for longer than a couple of hours but when we drive the vehicle then park for say 10 to 20 minutes it does not want to start.When I turn the Egnition switch to on position it does not turn over at all. I have taken the battery to check OK. My mechanic has replaced the negative ground wire from the battery to starter.Boy have I had my problems with this vehicle. It really has been quite the "QUEST" to fix this piece of metal. Motts :sick:
By the way if you are ever installing a TPS, ensure that you have the arm that catches the throttle body arm on the right side of each other. You will know if you don't because you will never get the correct voltage.
coommonly aflicts these vehicles.
Other than this my van runs great I love it. I have had the knock sensor fixed, replaced the belts and wires, had the intake manifold rebuilt but nothing changes this problem.
The last time this happened as I was sitting on the side of the road waiting for my engine to cool down another 99 Quest packed full with 5 people raced past me going up the same hill I had been trying to climb?!!
Does anyone have any clues to this problem? Mitch~ were you able to figure out how to fix your van.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
thanks :confuse:
One dealer changed fuel pump. . . $700
Another dealer changed timing chain. . . $500
Another dealer changed Mass Airflow Sensor. . . $300
Another dealer wanted to change timing chain. . .again
Pep Boys read codes. Said leaky fuel injector. . . $60
Injectors initial inspection passed.
Changed all plugs, wires and rotor. . . $300
All dealers (and others) said they could not read codes, due to the period in 1994, when Nissan switched from standard codes to a proprietary system, then immediately switched back.
Symptoms:
In neutral, engine races as normal and sounds great.
In drive with foot on brake, engine bogs down heavily and won't pass 2000 rpm, yet sucks fuel.
When placing in drive, engine struggles to move vehicle at first. Then after car becomes "lighter" due to moving at 20mph or so, the load is effectively taken away. Car surges, RPM spikes and we are off to the races with plenty of power.
Intermittent stalling on idle after movement, such as at stop sign.
144k mileage. No more than 100 miles in the past 2 years running from repair shop to repair shop.
If anyone has resolved a similar problem, please post it here. Also, feel free to write me at my email address.
Thanks, Rande
Joe
I was curious if you ever found out what was causing your problems when it warmed up? My 95 villager is doing the exact same thing.
Thanks.
Thanks,
fljewels
Mark
The van has 87,000 miles on it. This is now 2 months after the first mechanic ripped us off. It was never fuel pump/filter, plugs and wires from what we can tell. Now we are having a starting problem. We found a great mechanic but he says he has ruled everything but the fuel pump out. What do we do? Have any of you had a bad fuel pump? Not to mention one that was just put in for no reason? We are sick over it and just don't know where to turn. The fuel pump he put in was a Master E2067.
:confuse: The symptoms are it just cranks and cranks and eventually turns over. There is definitely a buzzing noise that happens under the van when you turn the key.
We did contact the original mechanic but the warranty on the part is only good if he replaces it which he won't do for free. He also says since other mechanics have touched the engine since him, how can we prove it is his work?
:mad: After investing $1400 worth of useless work trying to find a clogged MAF screen, do we keep this vehicle? It has 87K and we have loved it otherwise. It is that hard to figure out what goes wrong with these? We know we have a timing belt to do soon and with the money in it, we just are not sure.
So, if any of you have any fuel pump experience or at least starting problems, please let us know.
Thanks
Exactly the same sceanior has happened twice over the last 2 weeks. The only other time the engine did not turn over at all like this was a few years ago when the alarm was triggered (no alarm was triggered this time).
Any ideas as to what the problem is? Thank much for your help.
what could be the issue?
Thanks,
Kelly
142,000 miles
Inirtia Fuel Shut-Off Switch
The switch can be triggered on accidents or even on bump.
If the vehicle cranks but does not start, then:
1. Turn the key in the ignition OFF.
2. Check Under the vehicle for leaking fuel....
3. If you do not see or smell fuel, push down the red reset button on the fuel pump shut-off switch.
4. Turn the ignition key ON (not start) for a few seconds then turn it off.
5. Check for fuel leak or smell, and if no problem then
START the engine.
Now you wander where is the "Inirtia Fuel Shut-Off Switch".
It is next to the parking brake pedal, on the left side,
and is visiable from drivers seat.
The above 5 step procedure is safe and important to follow.
If you skip 4, then it may not start, because you need to
run your fuel pump for a few seconds to get fuel pumped
into engine. In fact you may need to do this more than once.
You will hear fuel pump running.
Good Luck,
-haro
I have a 99 Quest with 130k miles on it. It pretty much runs fine except in the last year or so things are just starting to "go" on it. The speedometer would act up after tons of rain by jumping from 0 to 90 while driving. Then, after a few days it was fine. Now it completely stopped working and my OD light flashes when I first start it up and my CEL is always on. It used to come on and off eventually (i really think it's gas quality related). Anyway, the one thing that it does which is troubling as I'm driving around with 3 kids is that it will suddenly start to act as if it's going to stall or not getting gas. I can be driving along and the gas pedal feels spongy and the car does not respond to my giving it more gas. It just starts to sputter and shake like it's going to die but it doesn't. I pull over, it recovers, and when I start up again it does it again. Eventually, it stops altogether and the car runs fine.
I've called the car repair shop and they tell me that since they can't replicate the issue it's hard for them to fix it. I don't understand this--what happened to the days when you said, "it makes this noise whenever i do x" and the mechanic said, 'oh.. it may be a zippy doodle.." and that was that???
We are at the point where we are wondering if the car is not reliable and if we should buy a new van. I like this one but can't be wondering if I'm going to stall out somewhere and the car certainly isn't worth tons of money for repairs (right??). Any help is greatly appreciated.
Claudine
Andy
I just had the speed sensor replaced and it's been 2 weeks with NO issues. Crossing fingers!!!!!
Sounds like the VSS was your issue. We replaced ours but still have the same problems. Will try yet another shop this week. Can anyone diagnose vehicles any more?
Andy
we have had this phantom starting problem for the past 6 years, and have replaced everything "electrical"... and I was stranded today for 3 hours... then I get in, and it starts right up... have had it towed MANY times, but it always starts for the mechanic, with no indication of a problem. If I go to the shop, and say "replace the two identical relays under the hood" will they know what I mean?
other than that, this car has been GREAT. 213K miles and going strong.
I had my 2001 Nissan Quest in the dealer service shop for 3 full days and kept going online to give them all the info out here we could find on the same exact problem. My speedometer dances or goes to 0 while I am driving and the car hesitates and sputters as if I am running out of gas as you described. I thought it used to be related to every time I had my air conditioner on. But I have turned it off in the last week and it doesn't recover like it did a month ago when this problem started happening.
When Nissan service checked the ground wire and the speed sensor (and every other sensor) it all tested fine. They said it would have to completely fail before they know exactly what it is.
How is your car doing now after replacing the speed sensor? Still no recurrence of the sputtering? I am ready to tell them to replace it and see how it goes.
Thanks a lot.
You should know that the SS when it first started going was always acting up and didn't throw the CEL on until it completely died. When I had taken it to the shop, the CEL had gone back out so they were unable to get a reading. It wasn't until the SS completely failed (stopped working at ALL) that the CEL stayed on and they told me to replace it. Your symptoms though are classic for SS. It's a relatively cheap fix, so why not go for it and hope for the best??
Hope it works out for you!!
Don Larson