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Steve, Host
It was the fuel pressure regulator. So, $354 later I can rest easy that my wife wont be stranded somewhere with the kids.
The van has 54K on it this is the 2nd repair I've had done, both have been on the fuel system. I had a fuel injector replace under warranty and now the fuel pressure regulator.
Thanks for all the help- Pat
Maybe you need to try a different service station!
Steve, Host
common problem with villager/quest
"runs good cold, craps out as it warms up"
usually trips no codes in obd1 systems
usually costs around $40.00
It is a 1995 villager and the only way to start the vehicle is to pump the gas repeatedly during cranking. It is especially worse during cold weather becomeing progressively better the hotter it get. In the winter here in Ohio it nearly kills the battery at times. Allowing and waiting for the fuel pressure to come up does not help.
It has been to a dealer as well as 2 non-dealer machanic's. With no improvement at all. (unless you count my loss of money as thier improvement)LOL
The injectors have been cleaned and no one has found any other problem at any of the shops.
I have checked all the codes with none stored. All sensors have been "back probed" and all voltages are in range and the voltages vary with thottle change.
I am out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance.
I am not sure if the fuel pump was ever checked.
Please report back once you confirm that this was the issue or you find another solution.
Any advice is appreciated!!! :confuse:
katts91@hotmail.com
-Jennifer
Jenn - when you say distributor you are referring to the distributor cap or the distrib itself?
Hope this helps!!
Climate Control Problems: All Cars
Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles
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Did your mechanic find the problem?
Please help because we are baffled and are very scared to drive all the way back to Florida with the van acting this way.
Could you give us the name of someone around denver area to fix the problem?
Golden colorodo and the area are so beautiful- we just wish our van wasn't having such a hard time here! :-)
thanks!
I could not leave the parking lot. The van was shaking so much I thought my engine would fall out. And it smelled like rotton eggs. I asked the mechanic how he thought this was driveable. So I had to leave my car and now my bill is very high.
Is all of this normal because I feel like I got ripped off since I do not know anything about cars.
1995 Mercury Villager LS. Van is great, bought it cheap due to Ford breaking the exhause manifold studs during the engine rebuild. Van now has 230k+ on it and everything is solid. Drilled them out, tapped, and everything is great. However, the problem I have is the van losing power and eventually stalling during driving. The problem gets worse as the air temp goes up outside and the longer the trip. As well, the fuel mileage gets worse! On my last long trip, it was fine for about 120 miles, then right before we got to the destination, it lost power up a hill and I barely limped it (via idle) to a turn off. Let it sit for 15 minutes, and it started right back up and we finished the trip. Usually, the problem is unnoticeable when the van is cold, running fine until it starts to come off cold enrichment.
The fuel pump is fine, as I have a test set for it and it runs 50-60psi with the regulator disconnected, and 28-32psi with regulator connected (reading taken from right before entry on the fuel rail). Also, when the van does lose power and stall, the fuel pump just runs like mad and you can almost watch the gas gauge go down, so I know it's pumping fuel. If you remove the fuel cap right after the stall, it nearly pushes fuel out and takes forever to bleed, as if there is excess pressure coming from somewhere. If you try starting it right after it stalls, you can definitely smell unburned fuel, which leads me to believe it's one or more fuel injectors. However, lately another symptom has been getting worse.
Stop at a light, when it turns green you put your foot on the gas, the van falls on it's face until it reaches 3200 or so RPM and then takes off like a race car! Not really, but it definitely gains power. Although, power in that range has been going down as the other symptoms continue. Gas mileage has dropped from 26-28mpg on the highway to 18-22. I have to press the pedal more every day to keep the van at highway speeds.
Is my fuel injector conclusion correct or not? Since the van still uses a distributor, I can't see how it would be anything ignition wise, as sparks tests on the plugs/wires are all good. The Service engine Soon light has only come on once, and that was when it stalled on a long trip. When I did check the fuel pressure, a large amount of air came out, then finally fuel. The only place for air to enter the fuel system and not be noticeably leaking fuel would be through an injector...I think. Please help...Love the van and everything works great on it besides minor worn out parts, like the electric locks and what not... If it's the injector(s), I can pick some up at a U-Wrench-It shop for less than $50/set, but it's a long drive and don't want to waste money and time.
Mitch (Missouri)
When I start the engine (ignition) after 3-4 hours of gap(like heading for a office in the morning), it starts wtih out any problem. But, when I am starting the ignition after a small gap like after shopping, pick-up and so on, it sounds like gr.gr.gr..rr.r.r..r.r.r.. and won't start the engine. I need to keep the key in ignition and in on position for 15-20 seconds ( or more ) ignoring the gr..gr sound, then it finally starts . Once it starts, it is not going down during the drive ( i.e. good for me).
I found this forun is very helpful in resolving the problems. My earlier problems were answered exactly (better than a technician) by the people and it worked. Please help me in answering the solution for this problem.
Thanks
Turned out to be a relay under the hood. There were two identical relays, the dealer swapped them until the replacement was shipped.
This may not be your issue, but could be.
When I called dealer, they don't know about 1st and 3rd gear sensors
For knock sensor the price is varying 600-1000$. Is this right price for fixing. This is in CA.
thanks.
thanks again.
Recap. Screw came out of the rotor. Replaced screw ran fine for about 5 miles then started to chug. Runs ok when cold then worse as it warms up. The engine fights for RPM until it stops running all together. Last time it stopped it developed a loud skreech at 1900 rpm and up. Sounds like b52 taking off. It still runs with loud screech but has noticeable loss of power when it does run ok. :sick:
Any help would be great.
I had the same problem with the dist screw coming loose. To fix, I put a little silicone gasket sealer on the threads. Good luck with the repairs, and please post the resulting repairs. Earl
I have the same problem with my 94 Mercury Villager. Still trying to figure out what the problem could be... Any luck??? Please let me know.
Since it seems that there hasn't been an answer here, you might try asking the folks in the Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles discussion. Just click the link to get there.
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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Regards.
Another easy thing to do is swing by an auto parts store and ask them to see if any codes are being thrown off - lots of places will do that for free.
You could have something flaky going on with one of the computer modules or something too I suppose. There should be some ideas over in the stalling discussion that Claires linked to.
Did you get it figured out on your van? Does anyone have any ideas?
Mechanic found out the stalling issue is due to the "idle air control valve". One of the solenoids on it is broke. Will put it in this week and see what happens! Just wanted to update in case someone else has this prob.