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I just had a leaky trany pan 'fixed' at STS. ($90) Ever since, I have a very loud and hard CLUNK when it shifts from 4th to 3rd. It happens in all cases: while passing, stopping, auto-stick downshift. I watched the tach when it shifted in case it was shifting at too high an RPM - it shifts down at 1000! Upshift is still quiet.
The mechanic says there are no sensors, connectors or links etc near the pan that he could have bumped. We checked the fluid level and it was fine. He has no idea why this would happen and suggested, IIRC, Lowes Trany additive.
Any Ideas?
P.S. Probably not related, but.... my 88 LeBaron J55 4 cyl turbo had an odd trany quirk. UNLESS I overflilled it, the trany would disengage during a hard turn.
When I move to the auto-stick mode, the gear display shows the gear number as I shift or it shifts down. In normal mode, the active box is always on [D]
How can I tell it I want to see the gear shifts ALWAYS?
Also, tach and odometer only work sporatically, what's with that?
Thanks
I had an issue similar with my 2001 Sebring - the car would all of a sudden shift into 1st or 2nd gear and I just ahd to wait it out. sometimes turning the car off and on would fix, sometimes not. then it started to get worse and happen more often. So after several sensor replacements, my mechanic siad the tranny was making them go bad. Rebuilt the tranny at cost, the car would still jump down a few gears when it rained moslty. Redid the trasnmission again. Still acting gooffy. He finally traced it to the solenoid pack. I think I mentioned it to him from reading these boards, but he must have ignored me or whatever.
Since the solenoid has been repaired, the car runs great.
:confuse:
A couple days ago at night I backed out of our driveway onto the street in reverse, moved the shifter to Drive, and it rev'ed like the car was in neutral. The next day my father came over and looked at it, although he has no mechanical knowledge the loan and car title are in his name.
Today I took the car to one of the 2 local transmission shops. The mechanic started the car, shifted it through the gears, and said something about having to order a Transmission Position Sensor? on Monday. I don't know exactly the name of the part, but he said that what was happening, because he had a device hooked up to the diagnostic port, is the engine thought that it was in Neutral when the shifter was in drive. He said that the engine read all the other gears correctly. The part I wasn't too impressed with was he couldn't tell me why my whole car engine and all literally jolt/hop when the car is shifted into reverse. His response was "We will have to call the Chrysler dealer and get you an estimate for the sensor and go from there." I also tried to point out to him that when I drove it for about 3 minutes the night before I was putting the gas pedal all the way to the floor and the car was barely moving, it also didn't shift at all. Another note is I do have a cannon muffler on the car and it sounded absolutely horrible, like a gargle kind of sound instead of its normal low loud tone. I give him credit for being open on a Saturday morning, and he was the only person in at the shop, but I question his diagnosis.
I have read multiple forums and still haven't come to a complete solution. I drained and refilled my ATF 4 months / 3k miles ago not using the Mitsubishi recommended Diamond ATF but another brand that Advance Auto had for Import ATF, and the fluid level was checked at transmission shop today and all appeared to be in order. I've kept up on its care as best as I can, changing oil and coolant when they needed it, and the ATF was changed to try and fix some weird shifting and rough downshifting problems which it never did. The car has 110k miles on it (was high miles I bought it), and other than the tranny and a slight engine ping it runs good.
I left the car at the shop since I won't be trusting it to drive anywhere, but will be going back with my father on Monday to see if there's something else that could be the problem. We already have a quote for $3k to fix the AC, so if it has a costly transmission bill coming we'll be getting rid of it for a more family friendly 4 cylinder car. Does anyone have any input on what else might be the problem, or any questions to ask the transmission mechanic when I go on Monday? Sorry this was so long, I prefer to make sure all the needed information is included and tend to include too much.
Could this be water in the trans fluid from a trans cooler leak??
If it is a water problem is only the 5qts in the pan effected or is the toque converter contaminated as well???
I did change the fluid and filter, 8 month ago and used the proper +4 fluid so I know the fluid should be a dark red and I check the fluid every week for a month of 2 just to make sure their was no leaks ect........
thanks in advance
1. If your speedo quits working, goes into limp in mode the output shaft sensor is out.. Easy replace under the drivers side fender front you have to remove the cover.. $25 for the sensor at Napa..
2. If your tach quits working the transmission input shaft sensor is bad.. BTW for all you guys with the shift sluggish and slams into gear that is one of the major causes.. Input sensor is a lot harder to get to so if you aren't the really mechanically inclined then maybe the the mechanic to do it..
3. Another common cause for the slam shifting is the shifter pack.. This thing has a bunch of solenoids and well if you have a bad one in the group is causes all kinds of shifting problems.
4. Take the pan off get a filter and pan gasket, grey permatex sealent and replace your filter and fluid with AFT4.. The cold weather leaking goes away and if shifts so much smoother..
Chrysler Dealerships hires a lot of young guys and well the little pac man tool doesn't replace good old fashion past history.. BTW if you want to reset the transmission history so it learns you vs the guy who owned the car before you just lift the battery connection for about 1 hr.. ECM will bleed off the capacitor keep alive voltage and well just like it rolled off the assy line.
Hope this helps...
Tim S..
Tim S..
I have a 2001 Sebring, V6 with an auto stick transmission. Today, when my daughter went to leave school, the car trans was slipping real bad and was leaking fluid out of the front of the trans. Does anybody know what may be the cause/fix for this problem? Also, any ideas what it may cost at a trans shop to fix? And last, do you know any websites where I may be able to locate a used trans to swap out, if needed?
Thanks in advance for your help,
TK
I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring that has almost 95,000 miles on it. Today, it started doing the same thing your car did while i was doing about 60 mph. Can you please tell me what was wrong with your car?
Thanks so much!
S.A.
Does anyone know where this Solenoid switch is located so I can check to see if a plug is loose?
This started after my battery died and my trany went into limp mode. (OK now). :confuse:
I appreciate the help from this forum to rule out all the other issues. This group is fortnuate to have folks such as Nick regularly respond with such helpful advise.
1 get new soliniod body for tainie 150 bucks 100 labor
cuse hard sifts clunks
2 use atf fluid only 3 or 4
3 change filte ron trainie pan flush old out 70 bucks
gota maintain it keep rpms down under 3000 down push on gas so ghard to wind up rpms take it easy on your convtable not race car bmw conv is what u want then :shades: :shades:
car dont start at all but turns over its dirbuter and cap get new spark in wires also when u do wires plugs on sebring U MUST REPLACE HEAD VALVE COVER GASKETS
WITH TUBE SEALS MUST DO THAT
MOPAR OIL FILTERS ARE VERY GREAT ALSO MOVES THE FLUID BETER THEN CHEAP JUNK FAST EDDIES WORSE BRAND OIL FILTERS AND OIL SO USE MOPAR FILTER 3 BUCKS BUY AT ANY DEALER
Was going down the highway, when my car basically put itself into neutral and I coasted to a stop. The car would then just rev the motor if you hit the gas, no matter what gear it was in.
Took it to a repair shop and had the transmission replaced. The transmission worked beautifully, better then it had before.
Two weeks(and $2,000.00) later I inadvertantly left my door cracked, which led to a dead battery. I had someone "jump" me, all cables were correctly placed on the batter.
Now, the car shifts fine twice, then at about 35-45 mph it lurches forward, then shifts again, and is fine after that point. There is no clunk when I slow down.
Took it back to the transmission place, and they hooked it up to computer and it produced no codes. They then told me to drive it around and in 35-40 stops/starts it will fix itself. I have done the 35-40 stops/starts and nothing has changed.
Any ideas as to what happened? Or what I can do to fix this?