Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
MINI Cooper: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
No Lucas electronics. The locking system is Bosch, actually, a reputable parts supplier.
Is this problem only occurring when the Mini is in your driveway? If so, that's a big red flag pointing to some kind of interference. If this is the case, I would ask the dealer if it is possible to change the security code in the system. Hope this helps.
Now, who has a nearly new Grey S with all the fun stuff for sale?
Good Luck
Drew
I've had a problem with the computer in my "S" since new. I get ~24 mpg (by the odometer) and the computer gives me about 34-36. That's over 50% off of actual. The Mini dealer in Mt View CA tried to tell me that everything is fine.
He didn't have an answer when I asked him if he'd be satisfied with this in his car, and he said if it was working as designed he'd be happy. I pointed out that if this is the manufacturing spec someone needs to get fired.
He then mentioned that there was a BMW technical memo about speedometer error, but I nipped that one in the bud to say that he wasn't really telling me that the speedometer is 50% off of actual to make the calculation so far off.
Anyway, has anyone else had this issue? Mini claimed that they drove the car and another S and they read about the same, so I know at least two cars have the problem!
My MDX has the same feature. But it's less than 10% off. I had to leave it that they thought nothing was wrong and document that I'm not satisfied with the response. As more complaints (by me or others) come in, I'm sure they'll eventually get around to either re-programming the computer or replacing it.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Interestingly, for two tanks, one came in at 24.75 MPG and the next at 24.8 (both via the odometer). Pretty steady numbers. My driving is about 30 miles each way for the commute. The first 10 min are in hills where taking a turn at 40 would have you sliding off the road and the rest is pretty much freeway (I go 85-90, traffic permitting).
If you search "OBC special codes"+"bmw" at google.com, you'll find the information div1 is referring to. Good luck.
Revka
Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons
Thanks,
Matt
The new tranny came in the next day and it was finished by the morning after. They have to drain the coolant and take out the battery to do the fix so there was some collateral damage (needed another battery box lid and a coolant top up a few days later) but the new gearbox seems fine, so far.
I hear they originally wanted to put the 6-speed Getrag in all the MINIs, not just the S (and now the diesel in europe&UK). I've heard of some problems with the Getrag too but I've heard of many replacements of the 5-speed from Midland Powertrain. Seems it can't handle even 110lb-ft of torque.
I had lock problems last month too. Car was locking itself first, then unlocking itself. Replaced and fixed a bunch of parts.
Has it hurt my confidence? Yes. I'm leasing the car and if it was up anytime soon I'd be returning it for sure. As it is I'll be sure to keep the mileage within the warranty for the duration. To fix anything in the tiny engine bay they have to take half the car apart so out of warranty this baby will be expensive to keep running.
12th month of ownership was rough after 11 great months. Car has just over 14K miles on it now so long term I'm not sure how it will hold up. Still the most fun car to drive I've ever had but at this point it is becoming the incarnation of the old joke, the only guy who can come home at 3am without getting in trouble with his spouse is the owner of a British sports car! It isn't that bad yet, never having left me stranded or anything but I sure hope that is the end of the problems for a while. If it is fine now until the end of the lease I'll consider buying it out but at this point I'm definitely keeping it clean, maintained and under mileage with intent to return it.
Update: So far, knock on the flywheel (figuratively of course, no knocking sounds yet ;-> ), the new tranny is working well. They put the new battery box cover on and the coolant level has been fine since the top up.
Discussed here and elsewhere, the stock tires are generally bad in the snow, good you've switched to something more appropriate, you can also look into snow tires if you want even better winter handling.
The odometer/speedometer is off intentionall by a few percent, some such european law that the car will never underestimate speed, and therefore its off to account for tire wear, etc. Doesn't solve your problem, or yours may be different, but its probably worth knowing.
Never used the Nav system, so no help there. Did you get a free orange/stainless MINI mug? it makes the front cupholders much more useful. Or if you ignore them as cup holder and use them for change or cellphones, they're not so bad, but everyone complains about them, so you're not alone.
I am a reporter with a major daily seeking new mini cooper owners for an article I'm working on. can you please email me at LANETEF@YAHOO.COM? Deadline is Friday May 16
Here's my list of issues & problems:
1. Annoying buzz in driverside a pillar from day one. Many attempts to fix but only lead to damage to the door that required body work, more rattles, and the problems persists. ?? Is the MINI supposed to have the fit and finish of a BMW or a Kia? Cause mine is the latter and I am NOT happy.
2. Intermittent double clutching required to get from N to 1st.
3. More vibrations in the rear area of both doors.
4. A Speaker seems to be blown but dealership says "working as expected." Uh hello..well perhaps it's a new vibration.
5. Hatch latch working intermittently...wouldnt latch. Replaced. Same problem with new latch. Keeping that bungee cord handy.
6. Intermittent low tire pressure warning..but pressure is fine.
7. Inside Door handle broke
Now on to the fun stuff
7. Car starts popping out of gear when down shifting.
8. Increased frequency of need for double clutching.
REPLACED Transmission UGH!!!
9. first the Engine was stalling in first when cold. Then the Engine was stalling ALL THE TIME...5 times within 1/4 mile.
10. Major electrical malfunction...in a matter of three days the car had increasing issues. First just the check engine light came on intermittently. I was told it was probably due to the gas cap. Never mind the staling issue I told them about. Then the EML light joined the party, followed by the low tire pressure, and the stability light.
REPLACED Wiring Harness
Still need to double clutch AND the car is again starting to stall in first. Cold or not.
Additionally, The dealership is nightmare to deal with(Im in Boston)...MINI doesn't offer a loaner program.
Right now I would tell anyone to RUN FAR AND FAST. I sold my 1996 Audi b/c I didn't want to spend my time in the shop. So I leased my first NEW car only to have more problems with it in the first 4k miles then I did wth my Audi at 90k.
Unhappy MINI driver in Boston.
Which dealer in Boston and when did you take delivery?
Regards
Jenny
The major one is the crunching, that appears to be coming from the steering when I make a turn. Additionally there seems to be some clunking in the back end, well if one considers MINI to have a back end )
Anyone know if either of these could be related to the recently replaced tranny or wiring harness?
-jenny
The dealer told me all Mini's had clutches that engaged just off the floor. So my question is ... am I the only person that found this to be very annoying? BMW should test drive a car with a really good clutch/transmission to find out what they have missed. Honda's S2000 set the bar and BMW is hopelessly behind. Not to mention how much fun the 2.0L 4 from the S2000 would be in the Mini!!
All that being said... I am looking forward with great anticipation to the 05' Mini Convertible.
Which car did you test, the Cooper or the Cooper S? They have different clutches. In my Cooper I find the clutch is very good for fast shifts, but not so good for smooth shifts. I care more about the former than the latter and with practice you can get smooth shifts out of it.
I'd love a 2.0L engine under there. Not sure it'll fit but you never know!
Is this a CVT transmission?
I'd at least call your dealer or the MINI USA 1-800 number.
Service dept. had told me that it was alright to drive and the transmission will not be affected. In any case I took it in & got it fixed.
Service department also told me that there was a "service update"-don't know what they meant by that, but they had to change an electrical part. This took them hardly 15 minutes to complete. Seems to be alright for now.
Just a note about MY MINI MOTORING experience. So far so bad. I would seriously advise against purchasing one of these vehicles-- at least until they resolve some of their quality issues.
I purchased the 36th MINI in North Carolina. Initially I was very pleased and excited by my purchase. A fun car to drive. But then the problems started.
1) cracked windshield
2) loose boot latch
3) glovebox that popped open upon EVERY bump
4) tach electronics went out for two days then miraculously healed itself
5) transmission clip recall
6) improperly installed A pillar cover after windshield replacement
7) driver's window froze in the upright position (it still does this occasionally)
8) Major Water Leak-- from under glovebox (microair filter). It took them two separate times to fix this.
9) Engine management issues-- my car likes to try to stall at the first stopsign in the morning. They've tried to adjust for this twice now.
10) Entire transmission died leaving me stranded. Whole thing had to be replaced at 12K miles. They tried to blame it on "poor driving habits and a burnt out clutch".
11) Dashboard rattle
12) Left front turn signal popped out during driving and proceded to scratch the hell out of the side of the car.
13) wiper blades peeling apart at 20K miles
14) car pulls to left while driving, but dealership assures me car alignment is good
All I have to say is that I am going to ditch this bad boy before the warranty gives out, and go back to Honda products!
cb <=== one intensely dissatisfied owner
Likewise, you could paint it yellow, with the top green! ;=)
Good luck
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
Harry
No real complaints otherwise just motoring along and smiling all the way !
Ray T.
That said, if you really like the MINI like most MINI owners do, you'll get one regardless of that silly salesperson, just get it from someone else on principle if nothing else.
MINIs aren't Toyota's, they're not perfect, but the driving makes up for it in almost all cases. I agree with ditching that salesman, lame excuses for faults are pathetic. They should have the car in service and find out the true cause and not have potential customers driving it. Especially if someone dropped something in it, you'd think they'd dig it out!
I found a local rental agency to rent a Cooper from for a couple of days to get a better feel for it than I could at the dealer.
When I went to pick it up, was told the car had to go into the shop for a new clutch...at about only 900 miles!!
Wasn't repaired right first time, had to go back. Dealer said car's finally ready after 6 weeks!!!
Clutch is a big concern in San Francisco. Some of those earlier postings are discouraging...any more clutch/service comments??
I know a few people who learned to drive on a MINI, and their clutches are quite fine.
I'd just chalk it up to horrible abuse. People who barely know how to drive rent a car because its cool looking and beat the daylights out of it because they don't know what they're doing and its not theirs.
Also, at 900 miles the car isn't even broken in, so if its a rental, everyone will be beating it up and the clutch is bound to get screwed up before it can settle correctly as well. The correct break-in process is 1250 miles of under 4500 RPM and no full throttle...
A few weeks ago I could feel some minor vibration when I place my foot on the pedal. Then it started to make noise about three days ago. I called the dealer in Concord, CA and they picked up the car. About 80 miles away. After looking at the car the said it was abused and estimated the repair at $3-4,000.00! Not covered by warrantee! All of the miles on the car are highway, and I have been driving for 47 years and never used up a clutch. I don't know where to turn. I love the car but BMW is ripping us off. It also seems that the transmission case is dammaged arround the in put shaft. It make me wonder what came first! Help!
And call MINIUSA at 866 ASK-MINI. Can't hurt to see what they say either, (and less effort then going to another dealer) many times they'll be more accomidating then a dealer since they have a vested interest in keeping you happy.
I think the honest issues with a MINI are reliability mostly. The cars aren't entirely flawless, and you need to be willing to deal with a few problems here and there, (though the clutch thing is rare - first time I've heard of clutch issues). Its not like Audi's are problem free either, but you're obviously willing to buy another, so you're satisfied there. Also check out size issues. A MINI is small, too small for some people (but not most). And finally, a MINI isn't amazingly affordable. They sell for MSRP, and they can be expensive to fix outside of warranty repairs, and they don't get stellar gas milage, especially an S, because they require premium and are tuned for performance, so you won't get 40mpg, if that matters to you.
There's a ton of positive comments in the normal MINI thread on here, I really don't see it worth adding more, for most everyone its worth putting up with the small problems because its such a good car.
Ray T.
The dealership is stumped by the problem:
locking and unlocking itself while parked or being driven, interior lights turning on, unable to stay locked as it unlocks as soon as you lock it, automatic lock at 5MPH not working, etc. The problem exists whether you try to lock it with the remote key, regular key, or by toggle on the dash board.
Today is the third day the car has been at the dealership and they are still trying to figure it out - said they had never seen it before - but added that they had gotten another one with the same problem yesterday morning.
One post suggested radio transmissions near the car, but the problem has existed while being driven between San Francisco and Los Angeles. There are a couple of posts on this board by folks with the same problem, and if someone could post or email me with the solution, I would pass this info on to the dealership here. Thank you.
Problems were corroded contacts in the BCM and in the door actuator. Thought the door was open so thought it better unlock the door, stupid computer trying to be too smart. So tell them to clean up (pr replace if necessary) the BCM and replace the actuator. If they are still totally clueless, I'll get my service receipt out and give you the part numbers.
Thank you in advance.