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MINI Cooper: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,547
    English electronics (anything say "Lucas" on it under the hood)?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • timk5timk5 Member Posts: 2
    Perhaps we should focus the interrogation lamp on their forehead until a little smoke rises. Then perhaps the truth be told.
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    Take it to the dealer and tell them to fix it. I've heard of one or two other cases like this. Go to www.mini2.com and do a search.

    No Lucas electronics. The locking system is Bosch, actually, a reputable parts supplier.
  • dskidski Member Posts: 414
    I don't have a Mini.. Yet... But I do have a thought about your door lock mystery. You could have some radio wave interference. I'm guessing that they could be using FM Radio Waves for the remote. Someone in your area could be using another FM type controller in their home which is inadvertently communicating with your Mini. It is a VERY common problem with residential controllers and Automatic Garage Door openers.

    Is this problem only occurring when the Mini is in your driveway? If so, that's a big red flag pointing to some kind of interference. If this is the case, I would ask the dealer if it is possible to change the security code in the system. Hope this helps.

    Now, who has a nearly new Grey S with all the fun stuff for sale?

    Good Luck
    Drew
  • mattrichtermattrichter Member Posts: 19
    Hi all,
     
    I've had a problem with the computer in my "S" since new. I get ~24 mpg (by the odometer) and the computer gives me about 34-36. That's over 50% off of actual. The Mini dealer in Mt View CA tried to tell me that everything is fine.

    He didn't have an answer when I asked him if he'd be satisfied with this in his car, and he said if it was working as designed he'd be happy. I pointed out that if this is the manufacturing spec someone needs to get fired.

    He then mentioned that there was a BMW technical memo about speedometer error, but I nipped that one in the bud to say that he wasn't really telling me that the speedometer is 50% off of actual to make the calculation so far off.

    Anyway, has anyone else had this issue? Mini claimed that they drove the car and another S and they read about the same, so I know at least two cars have the problem!

    My MDX has the same feature. But it's less than 10% off. I had to leave it that they thought nothing was wrong and document that I'm not satisfied with the response. As more complaints (by me or others) come in, I'm sure they'll eventually get around to either re-programming the computer or replacing it.

    Anyone have any suggestions?
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    If so, perhaps there is a setting in there which could be changed? I know my Cooper is rated at 48MPG in imperial but only 37MPG with US gallons (not that I see those figures with the way I drive but I'm using them to illustrate).
  • reilleyreilley Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Cooper with the CVT, whenever the car is cold and I put it in drive, the transmission clunks into gear and the whole car jolts severely - I'm thinking the transmission won't last long with this happening. Once the car is warm there is no problem. I've had the car since last October and the problem only presented itself in the past couple of months. Has anyone experienced this and had it resolved?
  • mattrichtermattrichter Member Posts: 19
    There may be settings to change (Imperial vs US gallons or non"S" vs "S". But since Mini of Mountain View didn't view the error as a problem, the didn't do squat. I must say that the BMW service manager was much better. He told me to log a few tanks of gas to get better numbers (I only had the numbers from memory when I went in the first time). He also said that with better documentation of the problem, he'd help me escallate it.

    Interestingly, for two tanks, one came in at 24.75 MPG and the next at 24.8 (both via the odometer). Pretty steady numbers. My driving is about 30 miles each way for the commute. The first 10 min are in hills where taking a turn at 40 would have you sliding off the road and the rest is pretty much freeway (I go 85-90, traffic permitting).
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    On late model BMWs you can access a hidden menu through the instrument cluster and/or the OBC which allows you to adjust the OBC mileage correction factor. The Mini may have a similar feature. If so, your MPG error will be simple to correct. I can't post the information because it is way too long to cut and paste and I'm not allowed to post a link. Guess you'll have to try Google. Sorry.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Thanks div1- Good idea.

    If you search "OBC special codes"+"bmw" at google.com, you'll find the information div1 is referring to. Good luck.

    Revka
    Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons
  • mattrichtermattrichter Member Posts: 19
    Hi Revka and Div2. I did the search and found the information, but the interface on the computers must be differenct because I can't make heads or tails of the lock and unlock instructions..... I'll keep looking, as the feature has to be there somewhere!

    Thanks,

    Matt
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    The car started making a banging noise when under heavy load in first gear. At first it only did it under very heavy starts but it got easier with time. First visit I took it in they said it was wheel hop and asked if the ride felt OK (implying the rear struts were worn, letting the front wheels break loose). I told them they were nuts but they sent me on my way. A few days later I was back as it was getting progressively worse and I told them there was NO WAY it was wheel hop. The same tech who told me it was wheelhop was embarrassed to discover that 1st gear was shot -- they had trouble even getting it around the shop (I guess most people give lots of gas to a clutch they don't know which made it clang like hell's bells). Collars and/or teeth were broken so under load the gears were slipping, making loud banging noises when they caught the next groove/tooth. My original guesses were loose clutch springs, broken engine mounts or loose exhaust parts but it turned out it was 1st gear.

    The new tranny came in the next day and it was finished by the morning after. They have to drain the coolant and take out the battery to do the fix so there was some collateral damage (needed another battery box lid and a coolant top up a few days later) but the new gearbox seems fine, so far.

    I hear they originally wanted to put the 6-speed Getrag in all the MINIs, not just the S (and now the diesel in europe&UK). I've heard of some problems with the Getrag too but I've heard of many replacements of the 5-speed from Midland Powertrain. Seems it can't handle even 110lb-ft of torque.

    I had lock problems last month too. Car was locking itself first, then unlocking itself. Replaced and fixed a bunch of parts.

    Has it hurt my confidence? Yes. I'm leasing the car and if it was up anytime soon I'd be returning it for sure. As it is I'll be sure to keep the mileage within the warranty for the duration. To fix anything in the tiny engine bay they have to take half the car apart so out of warranty this baby will be expensive to keep running.

    12th month of ownership was rough after 11 great months. Car has just over 14K miles on it now so long term I'm not sure how it will hold up. Still the most fun car to drive I've ever had but at this point it is becoming the incarnation of the old joke, the only guy who can come home at 3am without getting in trouble with his spouse is the owner of a British sports car! It isn't that bad yet, never having left me stranded or anything but I sure hope that is the end of the problems for a while. If it is fine now until the end of the lease I'll consider buying it out but at this point I'm definitely keeping it clean, maintained and under mileage with intent to return it.

    Update: So far, knock on the flywheel (figuratively of course, no knocking sounds yet ;-> ), the new tranny is working well. They put the new battery box cover on and the coolant level has been fine since the top up.
  • mosconemoscone Member Posts: 1
    I picked up a 2003 Mini S with the sport package in December, 2002. I live in central PA, with lots of hills and plenty of snow. At first the car was a horror to drive; slippery and no traction in the snow while on drive pavement your fillings would fall out at the smallest of bumps. I bought a new set of 16" rims with Michelin sport radials and solved both problems. My computer mileage is off by 8% from the odometer. I am not very happy with the NAV system; maps are incomplete and limited. It takes two pulls to unlock the doors (?) and the cup holders are useless. But with the new tires it is a blast to drive.........too much so, I've already received a ticket.
  • stryderstryder Member Posts: 140
    If the doors are locked, they'll unlock on the first pull and open on the second. You probably have central locking engaged, which will lock the car whenever you get above 7 (i think) mph. Its de-programmable by your dealer if you don't want the doors to lock, in which case they open on the first pull. The other option, is to unlock them first, using the toggle.

    Discussed here and elsewhere, the stock tires are generally bad in the snow, good you've switched to something more appropriate, you can also look into snow tires if you want even better winter handling.

    The odometer/speedometer is off intentionall by a few percent, some such european law that the car will never underestimate speed, and therefore its off to account for tire wear, etc. Doesn't solve your problem, or yours may be different, but its probably worth knowing.

    Never used the Nav system, so no help there. Did you get a free orange/stainless MINI mug? it makes the front cupholders much more useful. Or if you ignore them as cup holder and use them for change or cellphones, they're not so bad, but everyone complains about them, so you're not alone.
  • pjreporterpjreporter Member Posts: 32
    Hi,

    I am a reporter with a major daily seeking new mini cooper owners for an article I'm working on. can you please email me at LANETEF@YAHOO.COM? Deadline is Friday May 16
  • miketpamiketpa Member Posts: 1
    Own a regular cooper. With just over 9k miles the transmission and clutch went out. Actually stranded me. Had just been in for regular service and had the service center test drive for a engine or drive train vibration. Vibration was under load at certain combinations of RPM and speeds. Almost all gears. After replacement of clutch and transmission the car has far less vibration and the vibration under load is gone. Would suggest that if you experience lots of vibration and vibration that seems to be when the car is under load that you be on the look out. Down the road I would not that vibration if it was going out of warranty. Luckily I think it will fail before the end of warranty. Other wise just some small inconveniences, but nothing I would consider bad and specifically since I was a April 2002 car.
  • smilingjennysmilingjenny Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 MINI standard transmission. From the moment I drove it off the lot I have had problems..from minor annoyances (vbrations) to the absurd (new transmission and wiring harness at 4k miles). While at many levels I love the car (what a blast to drive and who can help but smile at ya) at this point I want them to take it back and give me my money back.

    Here's my list of issues & problems:

    1. Annoying buzz in driverside a pillar from day one. Many attempts to fix but only lead to damage to the door that required body work, more rattles, and the problems persists. ?? Is the MINI supposed to have the fit and finish of a BMW or a Kia? Cause mine is the latter and I am NOT happy.
    2. Intermittent double clutching required to get from N to 1st.
    3. More vibrations in the rear area of both doors.
    4. A Speaker seems to be blown but dealership says "working as expected." Uh hello..well perhaps it's a new vibration. :)
    5. Hatch latch working intermittently...wouldnt latch. Replaced. Same problem with new latch. Keeping that bungee cord handy.
    6. Intermittent low tire pressure warning..but pressure is fine.
    7. Inside Door handle broke

    Now on to the fun stuff
    7. Car starts popping out of gear when down shifting.
    8. Increased frequency of need for double clutching.
    REPLACED Transmission UGH!!!
    9. first the Engine was stalling in first when cold. Then the Engine was stalling ALL THE TIME...5 times within 1/4 mile.
    10. Major electrical malfunction...in a matter of three days the car had increasing issues. First just the check engine light came on intermittently. I was told it was probably due to the gas cap. Never mind the staling issue I told them about. Then the EML light joined the party, followed by the low tire pressure, and the stability light.
    REPLACED Wiring Harness

    Still need to double clutch AND the car is again starting to stall in first. Cold or not.

    Additionally, The dealership is nightmare to deal with(Im in Boston)...MINI doesn't offer a loaner program.

    Right now I would tell anyone to RUN FAR AND FAST. I sold my 1996 Audi b/c I didn't want to spend my time in the shop. So I leased my first NEW car only to have more problems with it in the first 4k miles then I did wth my Audi at 90k.

    Unhappy MINI driver in Boston.
  • footiefootie Member Posts: 636
    Smilingjenny,

    Which dealer in Boston and when did you take delivery?

    Regards
  • smilingjennysmilingjenny Member Posts: 6
    Do you work for a dealer...given the pending situation I prefer not to post it publicly at this point. If I dont gain satisfaction I will. If you would like to email me directly, please do so. You can find my address in my profile.

    Jenny
  • smilingjennysmilingjenny Member Posts: 6
    Ok so the latest issues to add:

    The major one is the crunching, that appears to be coming from the steering when I make a turn. Additionally there seems to be some clunking in the back end, well if one considers MINI to have a back end :o)

    Anyone know if either of these could be related to the recently replaced tranny or wiring harness?

    -jenny
  • dcrislerdcrisler Member Posts: 118
    That the clutch engaged as I thought about lifting it off the floor and I was real unhappy with the throttle action. Every time I shifted the throttle seemed to hang. Much like when the initial smog cars appeared they all had a solenoid that kept the throttle engaged to slowly ease off the gas for better emissions. In this case I think it is the drive by wire system controlling the throttles. The car was very anoying to rev-match while down shifting because the throttle action did not match the foot movement.

    The dealer told me all Mini's had clutches that engaged just off the floor. So my question is ... am I the only person that found this to be very annoying? BMW should test drive a car with a really good clutch/transmission to find out what they have missed. Honda's S2000 set the bar and BMW is hopelessly behind. Not to mention how much fun the 2.0L 4 from the S2000 would be in the Mini!!

    All that being said... I am looking forward with great anticipation to the 05' Mini Convertible.
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    The lag is there for emission reasons, just like the old 'smog' cars. The fly-by-wire throttle makes it easy for them to do this. When downshifting, the blip takes more effort than in other cars but you can do it, just takes some getting used to.

    Which car did you test, the Cooper or the Cooper S? They have different clutches. In my Cooper I find the clutch is very good for fast shifts, but not so good for smooth shifts. I care more about the former than the latter and with practice you can get smooth shifts out of it.

    I'd love a 2.0L engine under there. Not sure it'll fit but you never know!
  • surjn98surjn98 Member Posts: 34
    My wife just bought a MINI about a month ago and getting an "EP" message for the transmission. Has anyone had this problem and what does it mean? Can it be reset or do we have to take it to the dealer, who is 200 miles away? Thanks!
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    What's an EP message?

    Is this a CVT transmission?

    I'd at least call your dealer or the MINI USA 1-800 number.
  • ozone1ozone1 Member Posts: 87
    The appearance of the EP indicator light has been a common glitch experienced by CVT owners. Some Coopers with this transmission have a faulty sensor which ends up tripping the EP code display. Is the indicator on all the time or does it come and go? The EP indicator appeared for me only once when I inadvertently drove through some standing water on the highway, it also shorted out my stereo system. But, after 5 minutes I restarted the car and everything went back to normal. It is an annoying glitch to be sure, but you should take it in to get looked at. Just don't be surprised if you have to take it in more than once, some owners have had to. Good luck and let us know how it goes
  • surjn98surjn98 Member Posts: 34
    This message I referred to applied for the CVT. The "EP" code was on all the time & could not use the cruise.
    Service dept. had told me that it was alright to drive and the transmission will not be affected. In any case I took it in & got it fixed.
    Service department also told me that there was a "service update"-don't know what they meant by that, but they had to change an electrical part. This took them hardly 15 minutes to complete. Seems to be alright for now.
  • badcar3badcar3 Member Posts: 1
    Hey-

    Just a note about MY MINI MOTORING experience. So far so bad. I would seriously advise against purchasing one of these vehicles-- at least until they resolve some of their quality issues.

    I purchased the 36th MINI in North Carolina. Initially I was very pleased and excited by my purchase. A fun car to drive. But then the problems started.

    1) cracked windshield
    2) loose boot latch
    3) glovebox that popped open upon EVERY bump
    4) tach electronics went out for two days then miraculously healed itself
    5) transmission clip recall
    6) improperly installed A pillar cover after windshield replacement
    7) driver's window froze in the upright position (it still does this occasionally)
    8) Major Water Leak-- from under glovebox (microair filter). It took them two separate times to fix this.
    9) Engine management issues-- my car likes to try to stall at the first stopsign in the morning. They've tried to adjust for this twice now.
    10) Entire transmission died leaving me stranded. Whole thing had to be replaced at 12K miles. They tried to blame it on "poor driving habits and a burnt out clutch".
    11) Dashboard rattle
    12) Left front turn signal popped out during driving and proceded to scratch the hell out of the side of the car.
    13) wiper blades peeling apart at 20K miles
    14) car pulls to left while driving, but dealership assures me car alignment is good

    All I have to say is that I am going to ditch this bad boy before the warranty gives out, and go back to Honda products!

    cb <=== one intensely dissatisfied owner
  • footiefootie Member Posts: 636
    Aren't there any lemon laws in NC? Just on the basis of the number of service trips and likely time spent out of service, you'd be likely to have a good case.

    Likewise, you could paint it yellow, with the top green! ;=)

    Good luck
  • feke1feke1 Member Posts: 1
    Our 2003 Cooper on ocassion hesitates when starting from a stop or dos,nt respond at all whenn given the gas. Dealer shows no codes when checked. Seems prevalent when AC is on going up our hill from our house when car is not warmed up. Does any one have similar experiences? Our car is a manual tranny, Thanks Jethro
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
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  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    With the AC on you sometimes have to rev the engine a bit when starting or the engine will lag. I had an update performed on the computer to v32.1 or similar and it is much better this year than last year, though still not 100%. If you haven't already had them upgrade the software you might suggest it. The upgrade seems to keep the idle higher when the engine is cold which helps.

    Harry
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Interesting, I experience the same lag issue when using a/c or the engine is cold, a slight stumble that needs a little more gas to overcome. I've got just over 8k miles on my 03 Cooper 5spd and will mention to service dept. when I bring it in for first free oil change @ 10k.
    No real complaints otherwise just motoring along and smiling all the way !

    Ray T.
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    The cold stumble was the reason why I got the update in the first place. The better performance with AC on was a bonus. Only thing that's worse about it is the higher idle when cold means it can be a bit choppy to drive, needing more clutch when cold to deal with the high idle. Once warmed up it is smooth.
  • jeep2jettajeep2jetta Member Posts: 53
    Hi all, I am contemplating on buying a Cooper S. Test drove one a few days back and loved it. From reading this board, I am now a little wary of the car. The Cooper S that I test drove, had an anoying rattling noise coming from the dash. The sales rep told me someone had drop something in there and it is stuck there and making noise. I did not realy buy that but anyhow...they even have a Cooper S (Indi Blue/w Stripes) that I can buy now if I wanted to...hmmm...don't know.
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    Whatever you do, don't give that salesperson a sale. That line is so bad... so bad. Dash rattles are a known issue with MINIs and they aren't from people dropping stuff in there. They may settle down (mine did, nothing had to be done) or they may require a fix to rectify the problem.

    That said, if you really like the MINI like most MINI owners do, you'll get one regardless of that silly salesperson, just get it from someone else on principle if nothing else.
  • jeep2jettajeep2jetta Member Posts: 53
    hpulley4...good points. Thanks...
  • stryderstryder Member Posts: 140
    I imagine their Indi + stripes car is several months old. There's a build date on a sticker under the bonnet. As the cars get newer, they get much better. '04 models are in production now, they've made over a quarter million cars, and the quality keeps getting better. Small issues like rattles were more common on older cars, so I'd definetly buy an '04, it'll have a few more bug fixes, and if you're willing to deal with a few small problems, the cars are great.

    MINIs aren't Toyota's, they're not perfect, but the driving makes up for it in almost all cases. I agree with ditching that salesman, lame excuses for faults are pathetic. They should have the car in service and find out the true cause and not have potential customers driving it. Especially if someone dropped something in it, you'd think they'd dig it out!
  • frederickpfrederickp Member Posts: 1
    I'm considering buying an'04 Cooper 5-spd.
    I found a local rental agency to rent a Cooper from for a couple of days to get a better feel for it than I could at the dealer.
    When I went to pick it up, was told the car had to go into the shop for a new clutch...at about only 900 miles!!
    Wasn't repaired right first time, had to go back. Dealer said car's finally ready after 6 weeks!!!
    Clutch is a big concern in San Francisco. Some of those earlier postings are discouraging...any more clutch/service comments??
  • stryderstryder Member Posts: 140
    I haven't heard of anyone having clutch troubles with their Coopers. There have been transmission issues as you may have read from Hpulley and others, but not clutch, and that only took a few days to replace the whole transmission.

    I know a few people who learned to drive on a MINI, and their clutches are quite fine.

    I'd just chalk it up to horrible abuse. People who barely know how to drive rent a car because its cool looking and beat the daylights out of it because they don't know what they're doing and its not theirs.

    Also, at 900 miles the car isn't even broken in, so if its a rental, everyone will be beating it up and the clutch is bound to get screwed up before it can settle correctly as well. The correct break-in process is 1250 miles of under 4500 RPM and no full throttle...
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    When my MINI's tranny went in April they didn't replace the clutch, just the gearbox. In a sense this was nice as it meant I didn't need to run in and relearn a new clutch. OTOH, with the work that needs to be done to replace the clutch or tranny on these beasties (removing most of the stuff in the engine bay, taking battery out, draining the coolant, etc.) I thought they almost might as well have done the clutch at the same time. Not looking forward to out of warranty ownership and putting too many miles on it already...
  • perakisperakis Member Posts: 3
    I have a 11 month old Mini S. I DO NOT drive the car hard BUT my front tires are extremely worn after 13k miles. They will need replacing in another 3K miles. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    The MINI does eat tires if you have fun with it but the wear seems to depend. The Dunlops seem to last longer than the Pirellis with the Goodyears somewhere in between.
  • yanksjpsyanksjps Member Posts: 1
    My AUdi A4 lease will end next month. I have narrowed down my choice to two cars. Another A4 or a Mini S. It has been interesting reading the owner comments here at Edmunds. I love the way my test drive, although short, went on the Mini. Does anyone have some positive and negative comments about the S to help me with the final decision? I would much rather listen to you then a salesman. Thanks
  • amflyer11amflyer11 Member Posts: 1
    We have never had much free play on the clutch pedal and the dealer said there was no adjustment.
    A few weeks ago I could feel some minor vibration when I place my foot on the pedal. Then it started to make noise about three days ago. I called the dealer in Concord, CA and they picked up the car. About 80 miles away. After looking at the car the said it was abused and estimated the repair at $3-4,000.00! Not covered by warrantee! All of the miles on the car are highway, and I have been driving for 47 years and never used up a clutch. I don't know where to turn. I love the car but BMW is ripping us off. It also seems that the transmission case is dammaged arround the in put shaft. It make me wonder what came first! Help!
  • stryderstryder Member Posts: 140
    Two suggestions: Try another dealer, you have the luxury (even if its a bit of a drive) of a few others in the Bay area, so see what they say. Warranty stuff/estimates can be done anywhere.

    And call MINIUSA at 866 ASK-MINI. Can't hurt to see what they say either, (and less effort then going to another dealer) many times they'll be more accomidating then a dealer since they have a vested interest in keeping you happy.

    I think the honest issues with a MINI are reliability mostly. The cars aren't entirely flawless, and you need to be willing to deal with a few problems here and there, (though the clutch thing is rare - first time I've heard of clutch issues). Its not like Audi's are problem free either, but you're obviously willing to buy another, so you're satisfied there. Also check out size issues. A MINI is small, too small for some people (but not most). And finally, a MINI isn't amazingly affordable. They sell for MSRP, and they can be expensive to fix outside of warranty repairs, and they don't get stellar gas milage, especially an S, because they require premium and are tuned for performance, so you won't get 40mpg, if that matters to you.

    There's a ton of positive comments in the normal MINI thread on here, I really don't see it worth adding more, for most everyone its worth putting up with the small problems because its such a good car.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    I also experienced problems with tranny. The shift into reverse does not always comply without going back into first then try reverse again, very annoying. Got the same response from dealer as you, there is no adjustment to clutch or linkage. I have the same amount of mileage as you now and continue to have issues with going into reverse but no other trans issue. Next stop at dealership for 20 k service this problem will be logged again.

    Ray T.
  • beenskerbeensker Member Posts: 2
    Phantom door lock!

    The dealership is stumped by the problem:

    locking and unlocking itself while parked or being driven, interior lights turning on, unable to stay locked as it unlocks as soon as you lock it, automatic lock at 5MPH not working, etc. The problem exists whether you try to lock it with the remote key, regular key, or by toggle on the dash board.

    Today is the third day the car has been at the dealership and they are still trying to figure it out - said they had never seen it before - but added that they had gotten another one with the same problem yesterday morning.

    One post suggested radio transmissions near the car, but the problem has existed while being driven between San Francisco and Los Angeles. There are a couple of posts on this board by folks with the same problem, and if someone could post or email me with the solution, I would pass this info on to the dealership here. Thank you.
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Member Posts: 591
    There are probably several problems here. My MINI went 'Christine' on me this past April, first locking itself all the time (and rolling the windows up), then unlocking itself (and rolling the windows down). At first they just cleaned the rusty contacts in the body control module and sealed it up properly (in the UK they had a recall on it not being sealed right but for some reason they didn't do that recall here). That seemed to fix the problem but the problem came back and they had to replace the actuator in the driver's door for the lock.

    Problems were corroded contacts in the BCM and in the door actuator. Thought the door was open so thought it better unlock the door, stupid computer trying to be too smart. So tell them to clean up (pr replace if necessary) the BCM and replace the actuator. If they are still totally clueless, I'll get my service receipt out and give you the part numbers.
  • beenskerbeensker Member Posts: 2
    HP: You are wonderful, thank you. I have called the dealership and given them your info. Thank you. - AM
  • miniwannabeminiwannabe Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking about getting a Mini Cooper. Since I am a female, and I don't know much about cars, after reading all the problems associated with the Cooper, I am a little nervous about the reliability of the Mini. Any comments?

    Thank you in advance.
This discussion has been closed.