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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Something other than Passlock caused your car not to start. Passlock DOES NOT disable the starter motor. If you tried to start the car and the starter did not work, you should go through the diagnostic procedure for that symptom. This could be an ignition switch problem, as Burdawg said, but not the part of the ignition that is associated with Passlock II.
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    After reading all the posts by Alexandjojo, Gus, Nick, & Nick2, I decided to try try something different. I had already done the yellow wire cut & toggle switch, the 2.2K ohm resister bypass + a 4.7K ohm bypass ( I measured the resistance at 4860 ohms. I did the 10-minute and the 30 minute resets numerous times. It got to where it would start once every 4-6 attempts, and then only while I wiggled the wire going into the Hall Effect sensor. S0- I went to the self-serve junlkyard, snagged the lock cylinder/Hall effect switch AND the instrument cluster from the same vehicle. I got lucky- the key was in the ignition! So- I installed them and did the 10-min reset. Started every other time, did it again, CAR FIXED!!!!! Cost from the junkyard- $40. BTW, there are about 7 of these 96-99 GAs here if any one needs any parts, just let me know. There are about 4 older ones also.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Sounds like you may have more than one problem. The security light blinking when trying to start indicates a tripped passlock system, and the 10 minute reset worked, so that is one. The other issues aren't directly related to it though.
    1500 rpm at 55mph in overdrive sounds about right to me, but normally it would engage overdrive around 40mph unless your pushing it hard.
  • birdy3birdy3 Member Posts: 1
    You might have figured out the problem by now, but I know my car did the same...The Manual instructed that I turn the key and leave it that way for about 10 minutes (meanwhile the security light will be flashing, when it stops after about 10 min. or so you turn it off and back again and it should start) Good Luck!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    This weekend, I received a letter in the mail from a person whose initials are C.S. in Wisconsin. (I'm withholding the full name for the sake of their privacy) The letter was in connection with my instructions on repairing the Passlock problem on GM cars at http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix

    Here is the text of the letter he sent me.

    I can't afford to give you as much as I would like to, but your information was the greatest of help to me. I was working on my daughter's car. I am just one of the many struggling Americans right now. But thanks for all your help, hard work, and research!!!

    C.S. I want to thank you for your kind note, which I appreciate more than any amount of money you could have sent. It pleases me that on these forums, we can be of some help to others who are experiencing problems with their transportation. I hope that our posts can be of help to many more people just like you.

    Dick
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Wow, that's a very nice "thank you." As you said, it's nice to know that your time & efforts are appreciated. I know they are appreciated by many here - I'd love to be able to calculate the total $ amount that your fix has saved people in our Forums (not to mention the aggravation).

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    I found factory service manuals for '97 and '98 Grand Am ( & other N bodies) for $10 each at a local used bookstore. Funny thing- when I worked heavy line at the dealership 30 years ago, we rarely consulted them!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited August 2011
    Car Surgeon,
    Since you now have shop manuals for 97 and 98 Grand Ams, I wonder if you would mind taking a look at the wiring diagram for the security system of the 98 grand am, and let us know the difference between that circuit, and the one posted on my website, bergerweb.net/PasslockWiring It could be of some help to people who own earlier model Grand Ams.
    By the way, I have no qualms about posting wiring diagrams of GM cars that are no longer built by the NEW GM, since the company that built them went bankrupt. That GM no longer exists, therefore, no "rights" are being violated by copying those service manuals. Just sayin'
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    My car has been having the problem with not starting and the security light coming on. It does start after doing the 10 minute reset. So tonight I decided to to the Passlock Security Fix from the site: http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml

    The problem is I cannot locate the 3 wires to the left of the radio. I have the Haynes Manual for the 2003 Grand Am and the wiring diagram does not show the 3 wires. I am an electrician so I do have knowledge on reading diagrams and working with this type of stuff. I also do most of the repair and maintenance work on our cars. I am very disappointed to not be able to do the repair tonight.

    Does anyone know if the wiring is different in the 2003 Grand Am? I know the diagram on the web site is showing a 2002 but was it changed for 2003?

    I really do not want to go to the dealership for this repair. Any help would be appreciated.
  • carrairforcecarrairforce Member Posts: 1
    About 2 years ago my 2002 Pontiac Grand Am started requiring me to do a security reset. I'm tired of waiting ten minutes about 6 times a week. Also, withing the last six months every trouble light on my dash is constantly lit up. Does anyone have any idea what I should do to fix one or both of these problems?
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    One more question. Tomorrow I will look again at the wiring. Could be that it is a harness setup like what is in the Alero. If so, can I still use the resistor and no soldering method?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited September 2011
    The wiring is the same for the following cars:
    1999 - 2004 Oldsmobile Alero
    1997 - 2003 Chevrolet Malibu
    1999 - 2004 Pontiac Grand Am

    I am informed by someone who did the mod on a 2000 Saturn that there are slight differences in the wiring. The colors of the wires are different, as follows:

    Grand Am . | Saturn
    Yellow . . . . | Yellow
    Black . . . . . | Orange/Black Stripe
    White . . . . .| Red/White Stripe

    Thanks to Ron B.

    Dick B.
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    I am unable to find the wires at all! There is one bundle of wires that is wrapped with tape. I removed the tape and could not find any small wires in the bundle. After removing the radio I searched all of that area and did not see any wires going to the ignition. I'm wondering if I look under the dash if they may be down there. I am completely stumped as to where they are.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited September 2011
    Very strange. Has someone installed a remote starter on your car? If so, they may have messed with those wires and somehow re-routed them. I have not run into this problem before. I've done the mod on a 2002 and 2004 grand am, a 2003 and 2004 alero, and one Impala. Always found the wires in a small bundle of three coming off the main ignition switch bundle just to the left of the radio cavity. Can you also post all your model specs, Year, GT or LE, etc, Engine? Auto/manual, Bose radio? That stuff might help.

    You might try to access the wires at the BCM, which is located behind the kick panel, under the glove box. See the instructions on my website at
    http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
    You can use the "no-solder" technique there also.
    Dick
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    I will try accessing the wires at the BCM. Won't have time to look at that until Monday. We've been the only owners of the car and there's no remote starter.

    Here's the specs: 2003 Pontiac Grand Am SE, 3.4L, V6, automatic, standard radio/cd/cassette that came with the car when purchased.

    I also found this diagram through a link posted earlier in this thread.
    http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/newsite/pictures/instdiagrams/46.jpg
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    pia2some,
    Very few of the manuals available at Auto Parts Stores contain any information about the Security Systems. I think for some reason, they think they might run into legal problems if they publish the information, even though every car thief in the world already knows more about these systems than the average mechanic. That said, if you don't mind spending $28.00 for a subscription to the shop manual for your 2003 Grand Am at http://www.alldatadiy.com/ here is how to get to the BCM connector diagram in their online manuals.
    Go to ...
    Vehicle » Diagrams » Connector Views » Body Control Module
    and you will see the wiring list for the three connectors of the BCM. The Passlock wires are probably on connector C2. The two wires to cut are circuit #1835 (black wire), and circuit #1836 (yellow wire).
    Once you cut the wires, connect your resistor between the two ends that go into the BCM. Just insulate the other two wires (black and yellow) and leave them disconnected.
    If you think it's any help, you can look at the connector diagram for my 2002 Grand Am here:
    http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/BCM-Connector-C2.gif
    Note that the two wires you need to cut are on pins A6 and B6. I cannot guarantee they are on the same pins on the 2003 Grand Am GT, but it's a good probability, because GM liked to make their expensive parts like BCMs interchangeable.
    Hope this helps.
    Dick B
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    Still can't get this to work. I tried using going to the BCM end of the wiring and working from there. My wire colors do not match up with any of the diagrams. I purchased the manual for our car on the alldatadiy.com site. I felt sure I had located the correct wires and I placed the resistor on like your instructions show. The car would not even turn over. Nothing. So there was no way to do the relearn. Ended up rewiring everything back to the way it was and at least the car is running.

    I don't know if this will help, but here is what I have on my BCM (central connector):

    Row A (1-12): Pink, X, X, Lt. Blue, X, Black, Black, Pink, X, Yellow/Black, White, X (X means it is empty)

    Row B (1-12): Green, Black/White, Lt. Blue, Pink, Brown, X, Yellow, X, Dark Blue, X, Green/Black, Orange

    Any more thoughts or ideas?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited September 2011
    Hehehe.... almost the same mistake I made the first time I did this mod. Look very closely at your connector. On the side that plugs into the BCM, the pins are numbered. You may need a microscope to read them, but they are numbered. On the "A" side, pin 1 is blank. On the "B" side, Pin 1 connects to an orange wire. You are reading the pins from the wrong end.
    Here is the connector wiring, along with the color codes to help you figure out which end to work from. Connect your resistor from the yellow wire to the black wire directly across from it.
    image

    Right click on the image and choose "Save Image as" to get a full size copy. Hope this helps.

    Here is a close-up of the receptacle, with the pins numbered. Take notice of the locations of the guide notches along the bottom of the connector.
    image
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    Dang! I was reading it backwards. This was making my brain hurt because it didn't make any sense at all. Now I get it! I had the correct yellow wire but I had the wrong black wire. Dang. I couldn't figure out why the yellow was on the wrong pin. Now I see that it wasn't on the wrong pin, but that I was reading it backwards.

    I have the same diagram you posted. But for some reason it never clicked that I had it backwards. Thank you so very much. Now it makes sense and I should be able to do it without any trouble. Still can't find any of the 3 wires near the ignition. Couldn't even find them by looking up from under the dash. Very strange.

    I feel so stupid now. lol. But thank you.
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    What I had was the Trunk Release Switch for the black wire and then the correct yellow wire. So I was close. lol
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    pia2some,
    Did you get it to work? If so, we know that the 2003 is wired the same as the 2002.
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    I've been working ten hour days and haven't had a chance to work on it again. I'm hoping I'll have some time tomorrow evening. As soon as I get back to it I will let you know how it turns out.
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    I worked on the car tonight. Got the resistor in place using the correct wires this time. When I went to start the car, it did not start but the security light was flashing. I worried because the instructions on your website said that the car should start and then stall. Mine did not start at all. I left it in the on position for 15 minutes and then turned it off and restarted. It started right up and the security light is off.

    It's running now and everything seems to be okay. What do you think?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Looks like success to me!. Good work! Posting back with the pin layout of your connector was the key. You shouldn't have any more Passlock problems.

    Dick B
  • pia2somepia2some Member Posts: 10
    I cannot tell you how grateful I am for your information and knowledge on this problem. It made me sick to think of taking it to the dealer. So thank you.
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    The repair manual for the '97 is in 2 volumes; I have the volume that does not have any diagrams, only instructions. The '98 is in 3 volumes, again,no gots the one with diagrams. I left them with the gf that has the car, & we aren't seeing one another currently. lol
  • fireflynjfireflynj Member Posts: 2
    my 99 Grand am has been great! over 230,000 miles now and just replaced the alternator couple months ago, first repair done to it. everything else still original.
    Well, now the car got caught in a flood :(
    I'm fighting to get it running again, the Airbag computer and the BCM was under water and someone told me the lights were flashing on car while in water, so pulled the BCM and its bad looking, like years old green corrosion and rust everywhere.
    I removed the BCM.
    got fuel tank cleaned out fresh fuel, car starts and stalled in seconds, once it stayed running, sounds great! then doe not start again, hmm.
    I had it running for at least a minute, but I turned off because fuel return line was filling up a jug. can the car run without the BCM?
    just found out about the security and its relation to the BCM.

    Turn the key on, no Security light, try to start it and it stalls, then the security light is on steady. the security light does not go out after 15 min wait. of course the BCM is not connected.

    any way to bypass BCM?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Bypassing the BCM would be a daunting task, because it communicates with the Powertrain Control Module over a digital buss. Here is the description of what it does, regarding the Passlock system.
    "The BCM contains the logic of the theft deterrent system. The BCM provides the battery positive voltage to operate the Passlock(TM) Sensor. The BCM also measures the voltage of the security sensor signal circuit. The voltage measured will indicate whether the Passlock(TM) Sensor has been activated and whether the resistance value from the sensor is a valid value or the tamper value. If voltage measured is in the valid range, the BCM compares this voltage, voltage code, to a previously learned voltage code. If the voltage codes match, the BCM sends a class 2 message containing a password to the PCM. If the voltage codes do not match, or the voltage is in the Tamper range, or there is a circuit fault, the BCM will not send the correct password to the PCM, and the vehicle will not start."

    So, you see, the BCM translates the analog voltage from the passlock sensor into a coded digital signal to tell the Powertrain Control Module that it's OK to let the engine run.

    Your cheapest alternative is to get a salvaged Body Control Module, take it to a GM dealer and have them re-program it for you. Note that everything to do with the body of the car is controlled by the BCM.... I.E. The Power Door Locks, The Trunk Latch, Headlights, Taillights, Brake Lights, Door Chimes, Horn..... You just can't drive the car without it.

    Before going to the dealer, make sure your connectors are corrosion free. Clean them with a mild solution of naptha soap in distilled water, and then rinse with denatured alcohol. Good luck.

    Dick B
  • fireflynjfireflynj Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for info, it makes sense.
    it just threw me off when the car actually started and ran, must of been luck.
    now I just have to wait till the new BCM arrives.

    Thanks
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    These problems are probably just the tip of the iceberg after flood damage. With that many miles I recommend you start looking for something else.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Burdawg is right. You will likely need to replace your PCM as well. I'm curious why you haven't filed a claim with your insurance company and just had the car towed to a dealer and repaired. Sure, you would have to pay the deductible, but I don't think I would try to repair flood damage on my own. Just too many things that could be wrong.
    Dick B
  • sciotoparkesciotoparke Member Posts: 1
    Is the 'passlock' issue related to the key? And how can I figure out that my issue is in fact a 'passlock system' issue or rather, say a bad starter?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The passlock issue is related to the key in some vehicles. Read all the information at:
    http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
    To find out if you have a passlock problem, as opposed to a bad starter.
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    a bad starter will have battery voltage at the small solenoid terminal when the key is being turned. Sometimes it will turn the engine over if the main body of the starter is being rapped sharply with a hammer while the key is engaged. This would be due to a flat spot in the armature.
  • jemyce4everjemyce4ever Member Posts: 1
    i was having the same issue and after doing the relearn procedure my car started fine but none on the gadgets on the dashboard work at all (turning lights, fuel tanq, speedometer)... i went to the dealer and $120.00 later they couldnt figure out what is wrong with it :(
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    When you bring a car to the dealer with a problem, and they cannot fix it, I would think they have a moral obligation to release your car without charging you. I find it hard to believe that any reputable dealer would charge you $120.00 for doing nothing. If I were you, I would take your car to another GM dealer, tell them what happened at the other dealer, and ask them if they would please direct you how to lodge a complaint against the one who gypped you. Then see if they offer to actually repair your vehicle.
    It's normal for the dealer to charge for diagnostics, but when the diagnostics turn up nothing, and the problem is still there, that reveals that the diagnostics they performed was ineffective... a sure sign of dealer incompetence. I'm assuming that you described your problems and demonstrated what was not working when the write-up tech checked you in.
    Good luck
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    jemyce4ever,
    I apologize for your frustrations. Did the dealer involve Technical Assistance? Have you spoke with Customer Assistance? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • ihategrandamsihategrandams Member Posts: 1
    Im workin on a 2002 grand am for a friend of mine. I had to reset the passlock system about 4-5 months ago and it ran great. until today. he replaced the turn signal bulbs earlier today and now its fubar'd. the security light aint comin on but it'll start and run for about 2-3 seconds and die. i can hear the fuel pump runnin so i know its workin. the fuses are all good and when i take the battery terminal off and reset the computer, that doesn't do anything. any help would be greatly appreciated
  • quisey1quisey1 Member Posts: 1
    I am so glad I found this because I am just lost, I need help. My 2001 Pontiac Grand AM(146,000 miles) won't start right now, I been having problems since Feb 2011. For some odd reason when I cut the car off the car seems to think the keys are still in it so it would make this noise as if the keys are left in(ding, ding, ding) and I would ignore the noise but when the car sits to long, unfortunately this drains the battery and I would need a jumpstart. I am so tired of getting jumps and no mechanic can fix it, I have spent money cause mechanics have told me, it was my battery at 1st, then my alternator, then my fuel pump, now what? It seems like they were just guessing. So right now if I jump the car, it will die immediately and the noise comes on as if the key is in the ignition, when it's not and now the car is just sitting, when i try to start it, nothing happens as if the battery is dead, I just don't know what to do. I had these lights on, Security, Engine Light & service engine soon but when I went to see why the engine light was on nothing read. Does this seem like a Passlock issue? Another mechanic said he can't fix it and that I would have to take it to a Dealer and then another one said I may need to replace the entire engine and something else about the tumblers in the ignition. Can someone please help me?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited October 2011
    Your initial problem was NOT a passlock problem, but now that the SECURITY light is on, You may have the passlock problem plus another one as well.
    The chime remains on all the time for several possible reasons, including
    * headlights on
    * Key in Ignition
    * interior lights on

    It sounds like you may have a shorted switch in your ignition module. If you follow the diagnostics in the following two figures, you should find out whether or not that is your problem. Previous postings here have referred you to my website, where you can find the location of the Body Control Moudle.
    Pay particular attention to steps 3, 8, 10, 12, and 14, which refer to the key warning switch. I've also included a diagram of the audible alarm system to help out. If you can't do the diagnostics yourself, any good service technician should be able to find and fix your problem if you print out this post and bring it with you. Please let me know if this helps...
    image
    image
    Below is a schematic of the audible alarm circuits. If you right click on the diagram, you can view a larger version of it.
    image

    You may also find these diagrams useful.
    BCM Schematics 1
    BCM Schematics 2
    BCM Schematics 3
  • aviellesmomaviellesmom Member Posts: 6
    Ok, so a few months ago my 01 grand am wouldn't start at all so my dad & i did the passlock rewiring from Bergerweb and it did not work. well, i put off dealing with it for awhile because i was so frustrated so i just this week had it towed to a chevy dealer. i figured i'd prob just need a new bcm but wanted them to check it just in case there was something else going on. well, today the mechanic called and said they were able to do the relearn so they didn't think it was the bcm, they thought just the passlock sensor and connector stuff needs to be replaced. of course, this will cost about $500. they also said they had to bang on the bottom of the fuel tank to get the fuel pump to kick in, so of course they want to replace that as well. all told, the charges would be approx $1200!! i was wondering if anyone had any ideas about where i should go from here. is it worth doing any or all of these repairs? i can't believe that the car is really even worth $1200. ugh.
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    If the car was sitting for "a few months", it is no surprise the fuel pump needed to be kick-started.
    I won't get started on the issue of how financially needy the dealers act ( worked there for decades) , but if the relearn worked, then save your cash. I replaced the passlock sensor AND instrument panel for under $60 with used stuff & my GA always starts now.
    And most towns have repair shops that have ex-dealership mechanics who pride themselves on being car fixers rather than parts replacers. Need to call around to find the honest and competent ones. They are getting rarer every week.
  • aviellesmomaviellesmom Member Posts: 6
    well, i'd prefer not to have to pay to replace the fuel pump but you think i can replace the sensor myself? i asked the dealer if the car was drivable since they did the re-learn but he said it wasn't since they had to pull it apart and do some sort of "trick" to get it to work. so, i guess i'd probably have to have it towed somewhere else. if i replace the sensor myself (or have a non-dealer mechanic do it), where would i find the parts (junkyard?) and do i have to have the car reprogammed afterwards? i'm still not 100% sold on the idea that it's not the BCM, since we tried the bypass re-wiring thing and it didn't work. i just want there to be an easy(ish), not crazy expensive way to get this car fixed. haha.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    If you did the bypass as per Bergerweb.net, and then later, the dealer was able to get the relearn process to work, then you should be all set forever, unless you "undid" the bypass before having it towed to the dealer. If that's the case, then the BCM is OK, and you made a mistake when you did the bypass.... otherwise the relearn procedure would have worked for you, since we know that the dealer got the BCM to relearn the resistance of the sensor module.
    There is no secret stuff inside the passlock sensor module. It consists of resistors, a hall-effect transistor, and a three-pin connector. When you cut the yellow and black wires, you take it out of the circuit and replace it with a resistor, which eliminates the variation in value caused by the connector pins and the hall-effect transistor. The BCM then will learn the value of the resistor you substituted into the circuit, and since the resistor is a stable value, you will never have the passlock problem again..... Unless.... you have corrosion on the pins of the center connector of your BCM.
    In other words, you have ALREADY replaced the Passlock Sensor.

    Perhaps the reason your car would not start after you did the bypass, was because of the fuel pump being stuck. Then you re-wired it to the original configuration, took it to the dealer, and they managed to fix (temporarily) both problems?

    Now that your fuel pump is working, try the bypass again and see if you can get it to relearn, and turn out your "Security" light forever.

    Dick B
  • aviellesmomaviellesmom Member Posts: 6
    ok, sorry that i'm a little dense with this stuff, but i just want to make sure that i understand what's going on and what i should do. i'm really glad that you guys think the fuel pump problem is just because it sat untouched for so long (~ 6 mos.) and not really because it needs replaced.
    as for the passlock stuff, we did undo the rewiring that we had done before having it towed. so, you think that if i have them put the car back together, tow it home (they said it wasn't drivable without getting the sensor replaced), redo the sensor bypass, it should work? when we did the bypass originally, we did the version where you go through the glove compartment, and we double checked the BCM, which seemed to be free of corrosion and/or water. after doing the bypass and doing the longer relearn technique, the security light never went off and the car wouldn't start. if i do the bypass again, and it still doesn't start, do i need to have it towed yet again (3rd time) and have someone do the dealer relearn? how do i get the dealer/technician to do the relearn without wanting to do the full passlock replacement?
    i'm sorry for all the probably obvious questions, but i really want this to get fixed quickly, easily, & (reasonably)cheaply. i really do appreciate all of you guys' advice and help!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    My advise...
    At home, make the bypass module I describe in the first few steps of http://bergerweb.net/PasslockFix. Take that module with you to the dealer, and do the rest of the mod yourself in their lot. Then have them do the relearn.
  • piercecarter20piercecarter20 Member Posts: 2
    Im going to give the bypass a try and see if it works. I've been doing a lot of reading since i figured out, through replacing the battery and starter my self, that there was this problem.
    Ill keep this post updated to see if all the bypass and re wiring tutorials work for the 2005 model.
    all i have seen is for cars older than 2004 so I am not quite sure if it will but ill still check out the BCM and buy some resistors to try and by pass it. I might use a terminal through the radio to prevent the need of soldering any wires while I'm stuck at a gas station.
  • piercecarter20piercecarter20 Member Posts: 2
    everything went fine and only took about an hour total with some tinkering. the 2005 model has the same yellow,black,and white ( but my white cable was dirty and looked almost creamy yellow, a bit confusing. )even checked the BCM and had some mold on the A6 part and cleaned it all up. it was only surface mold, none made it into the black box ( car flooded once so this makes sense. )
    but all in all it was easy. :shades:
  • scm0300scm0300 Member Posts: 3
    Hey Guys,
    I have completed the latest bergerweb passlock fix, the no-soldering method.
    So the car ran great with no problems for a few months and the security light is off and still is.
    Lately the car began to act up again and the car would crank and crank but no start. After a about 10-30 minutes of doing nothing and letting the car sit it would kick over and run fine. This problem recently has become more frequent.
    So where do I go from here? any suggestions would be much appreciated.
    The car in question is a 2002 pontaic Grand AM GT.
    thankyou in advance.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I would suggest Replacing the fuel filter first. Then check the fuel pump. If the problem occurs when the vehicle is either very cold or very hot, check the ignition modules. I'm assuming that the "security" light is not lit.
    Dick B
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