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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    followed the instructions on http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml and my security light will not go out at all period regardless of what I do.

    pulled negative battery cable first:
    removed radio
    cut wires

    use 2200 resistors and mini terminal block as show in the pic there

    cut yellow and black wires and made sure insulation was not inside block.
    installed resistor as shown. I pulled the radio for access to the two wires.

    the car starts and stalls. with the switch left to on the security light flashes. If I turn the switch off and back on the security light stays solid.

    car will not relearn regardless of procedure learned. 10 min or 30 min makes no diff at all the light will not go out.

    car was running fine when i pulled it into garage.

    I read a post that suggested the bcm could be bad.

    will a car dealer work on a car with the security bypassed?
    it will be hard to get to the wire coming out of the ignition. Might have to pull that.

    basically I tried the http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml bypass and my light won't go out at all period.

    all help appreciated
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I would guess that the problem you have is that one of the two wires (black or yellow) is either broken between the radio area and the Body Control Module, or has become shorted to another wire in the bundle. This is not an easy thing to troubleshoot, but a first step is to disconnect the center connector of the Body Control Module, and using an Ohmmeter, check the resistance between pins A6 and B6 of the wiring harness connector. It should read 2200 ohms (or whatever resistance you used), +/- 10%. If it doesn't, you might want to try placing the resistor into the circuit right at the center connector of the BCM, thus eliminating any shorts or opens that are present in the wiring. Once that's done, try the reset again... Generally, the light on solid indicates a short, or an open in the circuitry, rather than a faulty passlock module.

    R Berger
    Instrumentation Engineering (retired)
    GM Proving Ground
    Milford, MI
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    the ohm reading set at 20k on multimeter is: 21.7
    the ohm reading set st 200k ..................... 22

    settings taken at center plug wire harness of bcm

    orogle
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    the car was running fine and having no troubles when I decided to bypass future problelms. Oh, on the 2001 grand am there is one screw that is recessed and hard to find that has to be taken out also.

    I was pretty sure the wiring job was done right. You cut and strip a piece of wire and stick it in the terminal block. Not too complicated. But now I am sure since I checked with a multimeter in the center connector of the wiring harness.

    Hope there is an answer to why my security light stays on.
    like I said before:
    @ if you leave the key in the "on" position it blinks.......but won't reset ......ever
    @ if you turn it off and back on then it is solid and will not reset.................ever

    orogle
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited December 2012
    Your resistance reading is 10 times what it should be. Check the color codes on your resistor body. The correct resistor should have three red bands. From the readings you are getting, I think you have a resistor color code of red, red, orange.
    Here is a handy reference for reading resistor color codes...
    http://www.bcdxc.org/resistor_color_codes.htm
    Dick

    PS... Are you referring to an additional screw to dismount the radio, or to get to the BCM?
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    sorry for not being clear....it was the bcm that had a hidden screw. actually you could see a metal plate with a screw in open site in the glove box area that had to be removed. Then there was more recessed down and to the left that had to come out also. Four screws total. The bcm actually came out when I was trying to unplug the center connector. No corrosion found.

    I bought another package the other day and: it says 22 kohm. I thought it said 2.2 kohm. And I thought i was being careful not to get 2.2mohmn heheheh.

    I am thinking/hoping you have solved my problem.
    @ Will revisit radio shack and get the right one. My problem is I am color blind inside but I can see most colors outside ok.

    This is a relief for me
    Now it totally makes sense why this isn't working.

    thanks for your help
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    The car is now running.
    I am so thankful for :
    @ The Internet
    @ Your great website
    @ The forum.
    @ Your posting replies even on the holidays.

    Thanks
    orogle
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    cant find the bcm anywhere on 2002 grand am, found something like it on left side of car kinda above the hood latch but it only has 2 plug ins not 3. i should also add my security light comes on and blinks when opening and closing door, car starts and runs fine scared to drive it because ive had to tow it several times once with a tow truck and twice with a friend and tow rope. before the light was on solid all the time now only comes on when door is open and blinks. want to check to if corrison has anything to with it on the bcm but cant seem to find the unit. in all reality im kinda lost in this situation so i thought i would just put in a resiter,anyone know where the bcm is at on a 2002 pontiac GT
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    http://www.bergerweb.net/
    click on home page
    Click on left side where it says no solder method and be careful you get the right resistor. 2.2 kohm and not 22 kohm like I did hehehe.

    best info you can get and it shows the bcm under the glove box.

    orogle
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    ive been there but my bcm is dirrerent ,it on the left side of the car and it doesnt hav the 3 wire plug ins only 2 and i dont hav the 3 wires going along side radio compartment
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    removed center plug on bcm and the grey wire came loose. The wire that comes attached to the bcm . What does that wire do and how is it attached. I remember seeing some tape over the wire but didn't pay enough attention.

    can you drive the car with it loose?

    orogle
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The BCM is mounted just below the glove box behind a dashboard lower panel that can be removed. One screw and a push fastener hold the panel in place. Go to...
    http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml. Scroll down near the end of the page to see how to get to the BCM.

    Dick B
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Orogle,
    Thanks to your own perserverence, you were able to help solve your situation by posting back with your observations. I winder how many people give up she they don't succeed the first time. Posting back your ohmmeter readings was the key. Glad you we we successful.
    Dick B
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Gee, judging by the number of typos in the above message, I better refrain from trying to post messages from my tablet. I hate these tiny keyboards!!!!!
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    Heheheh I thought maybe it was because of a little "celebrating" of sorts.

    oh, just in case you didn't see it: can you tell me what the wire does that is connected to the bcm. I called a chevy dealer and a buick dealer and asked the service dept but neither of them had a clue.

    I noticed that it was attached to the well wall and held by some tape that was coming undone but didn't pay enough attention and certainly didn't see it actually plugged into anything. There isn't anything to unscrew to remove it.

    looked at a new gm part on ebay and it was the same single wire coming out of the bcm. Searched the internet for hours trying to find out what that wire did. No reference to it at all. Kinda reminds me of the wire hanging down on my electric door opener. Each one I have had has a wire but it is never attached to anything.

    Does that wire have a purpose? Heheheh must be good for something.

    orogle
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Beat's me what that wire is for. It's not shown on my 2002 Grand Am BCM wiring diagrams. I never noticed it when I removed my BCM. I'm assuming it's not connected to one of the three connectors???
  • orogleorogle Member Posts: 10
    no one seems to know. Here is a pic of it on ebay.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/121031999719?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m142- 3.l2649

    @ small wire with a flat piece of plastic on the end of it. Doesn't look like it would snap into anything its smooth. No clip to hold it. And yet it is attached to the bcm so there must be a reason. Guess I will forgetaboutit hhehhe.

    I have another problem which probably should be in a new post but:
    Last week I went to start the car and there was darkness in the garage, the dome light wasn't on, turning the key produced no dash lights and the car wouldn't start.
    put on the multimeter to test voltage on the battery and it was fully charged.
    got out of car went into house
    went back to garage, the door was locked so unlocked door and when I opened it the dome light was on, the dash lights lit when turned the key and it started.

    @ went to the store a few days later and left the car unlocked
    and when I tried to start the car once again no power.
    @ Got out of the car and locked and unlocked the door with the key because I had no idea of what to do and no power still.
    @ Turned the headlight switch and had headlights and then dash lights and it started. I was surprised when the headlights came on.
    @ no security light flashing either time, just no power.

    orogle
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    would anyone know where the passlock wire is on the ignition of a 2002 grand prix, the 2002 3.8 is different from all the other models ive looked through
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    id like to by pass the passlock but cant locate the wires i hav the whole dash apart and steering colum so i should be able to find it, i hav a white and black striped wire and solid black on one little clip and another with a light green and peach with other various other bundles anyone that has the same please help
  • sam20777sam20777 Member Posts: 2
    Hi. Hope some one can help me out.

    I have a 2003 pontiac grand am. Car start a day before but now it just turn and won't start. I did the 10 min thing and the learning procedure but still no luck.
    My car security light is lid and stay lid when the key is turn to the ON position. After 10-15 minute in the "ON" position, the security light remains lid. shouldn't it turned off?
    I also try the learning procedure.... Turn the key on...then turn to crank the ignition..won't start. The security light goes off when its back to the "ON " position. Should the light stay lid?
    Just a note ...My security light does not flashes. Any suggestions?
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    did u turn the key all the way back past the off position after reseting the passlock
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Go to http://bergerweb.net/PasslockFix
    There are some tips at the bottom of that article on troubleshooting your system. It sounds like you might have a short or an open in one of the wires between the passlock module and the BCM. Good luck.
    Dick B
  • jlsummejlsumme Member Posts: 9
    My 2004 Alero which uses the same parts had an issue with the ignition switch. You could actually pull out the key with the engine running. The switch was replaced a few months ago and no problems since. Could be a pass lock problem along with a BCM under the glove box.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I don't think I would have gone to the expense of replacing the ignition switch just because I could pull the key out of the ignition. Many cars in the 50's and 60's were manufactured that way. Even so, this would have nothing to do with passlock, since this is a mechanical function, not electrical.
  • jlsummejlsumme Member Posts: 9
    In the 2004 alero it has the pass lock 2 witch does not have the sensor on the key. It instead has the sensor in the ignition switch assembly and when the tumblers or something else inside the switch get really loose or worn the sensor does not send the correct resistance to the bcm which in turn shuts down the fuel injectors.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Actually, what you say is true of all of the following cars:
    1999 - 2004 Oldsmobile Alero
    1997 - 2003 Chevrolet Malibu
    1999 - 2004 Pontiac Grand Am

    They all are equipped with Passlock II systems, and do not require a key with an embedded resistor. In these models, the resistor is embedded in a module that is molded into the side of the tumbler mechanism, This resistor is activated into the passlock circuit when any key is used to turn the locking mechanism. When the resistor is activated, a voltage between 1.5 and 9 volts will be present on the yellow wire [circuit #1836]. If the voltage is not what is expected by the BCM, then the bcm will begin flashing the "Security" light, and will not send the correct code to the Powertrain Control Mocule. In turn, the Powertrain Control Module will deactivate the fuel injectors, causing the engine to shut down.
    If the voltage on the yellow wire is within the allowable range, the vehicle can then be left in the ON position, and the BCM will, after 10 minutes, remember the new voltage, and will shut off the "Security" light. If you then turn the ignition off for 5 seconds, and then try to re-start the vehicle, the Security light will remain off, and the car will start.
    If for some reason, the voltage on the yellow wire is not within the tolerable range, the "Security" light will then stay illuminated solid [not blinking]. If the relearn procedure does not work, the solid "Security" light indicates that the yellow wire is either broken, or shorted to something else in the wiring harness.

    That's about all there is to the circuit.
    1. "Security" light off - Everything working correctly
    2. "Security" light blinking - Wrong voltage. needs relearn procecure
    3. "Security" light ON - Short or open in the wiring
    4. "Security" light ON but car starts - Faulty wiring, and Passlock system is in bypass mode. Bypass mode will remain until battery is disconnected or discharged, at which time Passlock system will cause the injectors to be de-activated.

    Dick Berger
    Instrumentation Engineering (retired)
    General Motors Proving Ground
    Milford, Michigan
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    re: to dick berger light is blinking when door is open , put key in ignition start car no light at all, driving and car shuts off. reset passlock runs battery dead even without the lights on,half charged the battery and the alternator charged it the rest of the way full could a battery set off the passlock system if it drops below 12 volts
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited February 2013
    Firstwatchman,
    It is common for the battery to drop below 11 volts when the starter motor is engaged, as when starting the car. The battery normally recovers to around 12.8 volts within seconds after the ignition switch is released from the "start" position, and returns to the "Run" position. During charging, the alternator generally puts out over 14 volts. Normally, the battery can go well below 10 volts without effecting the operation of any of the vehicle electronics.
    Unless you have a VERY bad battery, I suspect there is something wrong with your wiring... possibly a bad ground point, or a short. The fact that your "SECURITY" light is blinking when the door is open indicates faulty wiring, since there should be no connection between the "door ajar" switch and the "SECURITY" warning light, which is completely controlled by the BCM. Also, the Passlock system will not shut the engine off when driving, as this is a safety concern. [shutting down the engine will stop your power steering from operating, rendering the car hard to control.]
    During the learning period, the only things that draw current from the battery are:
    The PCM and BCM
    The dash lights
    The Daytime Running Lights
    The radio, if it is turned on
    The AC/heater fan, if turned on
    The Brake lights, if you have your foot on the brake, or your brake switch is out of adjustment.

    A reasonably charged battery should be able to hold a charge under these circumstances for at least 45 minutes, so if it is running down during the relearn, either the battery is on it's last leg, or there is a short somewhere in the wiring that is causing excess drain on the battery.

    Place a voltmeter on your battery, turn your ignition to the run position, and make sure all accessories and fans are shut off. If the voltage is above 11.8 volts and doesn't drop below that after 10 minutes, your battery is likely ok, but I suspect yours will drop slowly and get down to 10 volts or less.

    Your next task should be to measure the current drain from the battery when the ignition is on and the engine not running, the AC fan and the radio are off, light switches are off, and the dome light is off. You can find out how much current should be drawn from the battery in the shop manual for your vehicle.
    Dick B
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    tks il give that a try
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    mr. berger or anyone i need a used rear end for a 1999 ford expidition part # S 935 C-1 739757D02 373 RAITO 975 RING SIZE
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    How much are you willing to pay and where are you?
  • sam20777sam20777 Member Posts: 2
    yes i did
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    i know it sounds crazy but i found carrying an extra fully charged battery and switching them out starts my car ive been trying to find the problem with mine for 4 months now wish i could help more
  • firstwatchmanfirstwatchman Member Posts: 14
    not sure ive never bought one before and changed it out the used parts yards around here and my friends tell me it should cost about 150.00 or so what do u think im not trying to insult u at all with that figure i just dont know i live in ludington michigan and i havent had a car to drive for 2 yrs and i really miss being able to go to work without getting a ride or shopping for food i dont have alot of money and il probly have put this in my self i guess if the tag numbers match up youl have to let me know wat its worth thks so much for getting back to me and your time helping me figure this out blessings to you
  • valentino129valentino129 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    Hopefully some one can help me. I have a 2002 Grand AM and was plagued with the passlock issue. I found a website with a supposed fix. (bergerweb.net) seemed like a good idea at the time. I got my car started by resetting the computer and one fix was cutting a yellow wire below your dashboard and that should solve the issue but leave your security light on. I didn't mind the security light on as I just wanted my car to run. It worked for a day and a half and now my key will not even turn in the ignition and I cannot even move the gearshift into neutral to get my car off the street. I tried resetting the computer again and reconnecting the wire and then resetting the computer. Nothing is working any advice?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Your ignition switch is linked to your steering wheel, and your gearshift by mechanical linkage. Something is binding one of those linkages, keeping you from turning the key in the ignition. This is a mechanical issue, not electrical, and has nothing to do with the Passlock system.

    There is a possibility that you may get your key to turn by jiggling the gearshift lever a little while turning the key. This may be the reason for the binding. Also, try jiggling the steering wheel while trying to turn the key, as this mechanism sometimes binds until you relieve the pressure on the wheel in one direction or the other.

    By the way, how were you able to reset the Passlock system without turning the ignition switch.

    Also, doesn't the instructions at Bergerweb.net instruct you to also add a resistor to the circuit after cutting the yellow and black wires?
  • valentino129valentino129 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for responding.

    If it is mechanical it happened at a really odd time. I tried both to no avail.

    Prior to my cutting the wire my car was fine except the for the passlock issue. My father in law got it running by either removing the battery cable for 10 minutes or by leaving the car in the "on" position for 10 minutes, not sure which.

    After i cut the wire the car was running fine. Two days later the key wouldn't turn. Since then I tried taking the battery cable off. splicing the wire back together and nothing is working.

    As for bergerweb.net, there were three fixes listed on his site.

    1) cut the yellow wire while the car is running, this will leave your dash security light on( my choice as i didn't care about the dash light as long as my car was running)

    2) cut the wire and splice in a switch so you can toggle it on and off at will.

    3) the fix with the resistors.

    I figured i could cut the wire to get me going now and at a later date add the resistors. I can't do that now because i cannot recalibrate the system as it requires me to put the car in the "on" position.

    Lucky enough where we just got a new car so i don't need it, but its stuck in front of my house and i can't even get it into neutral to roll it into my driveway so i can get it off my insurance. I would love to be able to get more than a tax write off or selling it to a junk dealer for cheap when the engine is still in great shape as is most of the rest of the car.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    With this additional information, I'm sure that something non-electrical is preventing your key from turning. The possibilities are:
    * The Gearshift link cable may be causing the key to not turn (Automatic Transmissions)
    * The Steering locking mechanism may be causing the key to not turn (manual transmissions)
    * Something is broken inside the lock mechanism.
    * The wrong key is being used, or the key has become worn and no longer aligns the lock tumblers correctly to allow unlocking the vehicle.
    * The actual ignition switch, [which is attached to the back of the key mechanism] is binding, broken, or has come out of proper alignment. This could be a possibility if, you unplugged the ignition switch connector while gaining access to the yellow wire and it's bundle.

    Before going to the dealer, why not remove your radio, unscrew the two bolts that hold the ignition switch in the dashboard, and pull the switch out through the radio cavity and try to get it to turn with nothing attached to it, then you will know whether or not you need a new ignition switch. You should be able to find one at a junk yard for far less than the $400 or so that the dealer will charge to put in a new one. Then, also do the resistor mod, and you won't have to worry about passlock problems ever again. See the alternate instructions at Passlock Fix, No Soldering

    Also, there is another reason for installing the resistor, instead of just cutting the yellow wire. After you get the vehicle started, and the yellow wire is cut, you cannot lose power to the Body Control Module. If you do, as in.... disconnecting the battery..... the BCM will reset out of the passlock fail mode, and again try to protect the vehicle from theft. Since the yellow wire is now disconnected, you will not be able to perform a relearn, so you won't be able to get the vehicle started without re-connecting the yellow wire, performing the relearn, starting the car, and then cutting the yellow wire again. That's the reason for installing the switch.

    When I wrote up the instructions at Bergerweb.net, I figured it was considerably cheaper to install a resistor [4 for a dollar] rather than a switch [$4.50].

    Dick Berger
    Instrumentation Engineering, GM Proving Ground
  • ambercallenambercallen Member Posts: 4
    I am so frustrated with this passlock issue. I have had several issues and have even had the computer reset and was told by mechanic not to use any key but the main one. This worked for awhile and then started having issues again. My brother did the bypass with resister and again it was fixed for awhile. Recently I had issues for about 3 days where it would passlock and then finally start. We replaced a couple fuses and then the final time I had ton have it towed to the dealer. They said it was the ignition switch and that seemed to work for a few weeks. Now I am getting a passlock issue every other day. Will start fine for a day or two and then suddenly I go and turn the key and all my dash lights are out and car will start and then die. For now the relearn seems to be working and I can usuallybstart the car fine in 10 mins. I know its ready when suddenly everything on the dash lig hts back up. I have spent way too much money on this car and with 4 kids can't afford much more. I'm afraid to go anywhere in fear that it will passlock and the relearn won't work which has happened before. Also the last few months I have times where the key won't turn to off so I have to press in on the button under steering column to release the key. Please any help would be awesome!!!
  • jlsummejlsumme Member Posts: 9
    Did they replace the ignition switch or just fiddle with it? Do your keys have the pellet resistor on them?
  • ambercallenambercallen Member Posts: 4
    Ignition switch was replaced. Not sure about the key but I don't think it does.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The modification at www.bergerweb.net works only on vehicles with Passlock II systems.
    1999 - 2004 Oldsmobile Alero
    1997 - 2003 Chevrolet Malibu
    1999 - 2004 Pontiac Grand Am
    A few Saturn models around the same years.

    If you can get hold of a service manual for your '97 Grand Am, find the page that shows the wiring diagram for the theft deterrent system. Scan the pages and then send them to me at richard@bergerweb.net. Also, Find the relearn procedure in your Owner's Manual and see what they tell you to do. If the procedure is the same, then you may possibly have a variation of the Passlock II system.

    Finally, Check your key, and see if it is stamped on one side with a "+" sign inside a circle. If not, then your key doesn't have any imbedded circuits.
  • ambercallenambercallen Member Posts: 4
    I do have a service manual that's for my car and a few others in the 97-99 range I believe. I will see if I can find a diagram and get it sent to you. I'm not sure I have an owners manual but I will check. No + on the key. Thank you for the help. I'm just at an end with this.
  • almostalmost Member Posts: 1
    2002 grand am/so i did bypass with no soldering option made dummy sensor followed all instructions ...car started right away no waiting but light is still on....not flashing just on...since there was no relearn process im not sure if it worked or will have same issue later
  • valentino129valentino129 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    Thank you for all the advice and assistance. I was lucky enought to be able to afford a new vehicle . I don't have the time or patience to try and deal with trying to fix the car at this point in time so I donated my car to the Breast cancer foundation. Hopefully they can make something off of it and help people at the same time.

    Have a great day and thanks again!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    If your light is on (solid) that means that there is a fault in wiring between your bypass module and the Body Control Module. Go back to the website, and follow the directions near the end of the article for troubleshooting for wiring problems. If you find that there is an open, or a short in your wiring, move your bypass module from the Ignition area to the BCM area. Refer to the circuit diagrams at the bottom of the article. Instructions for doing the bypass at the BCM can be found at:
    http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
    You can still use your bypass module, so you won't have to solder the wires.
  • ambercallenambercallen Member Posts: 4
    I looked through the service manual I have and there is no wiring diagram for the passlock. The service manual seems more a general manual for several make and models of gm cars. Lately since the ignition switch replacement which seemed to work for a couple weeks the car has been passlocking but usually after a few minutes all the lights come back on and the theft light flashes and goes off and car will start. Until tonight. Went to take my husband to work after a few days of no issues with the car it decides to passlock again. This time tried to do the relearn and got nowhere. Looks like I will have to tow it in somewhere just can't afford to keep fixing it temporaly :(
  • psmoorepsmoore Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2013
    Thanks for posting this. I will be doing the mod today. Was just wondering while driving when those lights come on my turn signals click, the electric door locks click etc. Was wondering if this will fix that too. Thanks alot!

    It's a 2004 Grand Am.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    You seem to have other issues that are not necessarily related to a Passlock problem, but all of the things you describe are controlled by the Body Control Module. It is more likely that you either have a faulty BCM, or there is a wiring problem in your dashboard that is causing the BCM to do funny things. The most likely area of concern is a bad ground Splice Pack on the circuits that furnish ground to the Body Control Module. I would start by checking the integrity of Splice Pack SP202. You will need a service manual with wiring diagrams for your vehicle. The service manual will also tell you where to locate SP202. This is not an impossible task, but it will take patience to do the troubleshooting.
    Considering that you are having other problems that are related to the BCM, I would doubt that doing the Passlock mod will help.
  • psmoorepsmoore Member Posts: 2
    The car has been making those clicking sounds since shortly after I bought it in 2005. If I turn the turn signal on or the hazards on, the clicking quits. It is very intermittent. The techs told me it was some assembly unit and it would be like 350-400 to fix.

    I didn't get your message until after I did the mod. Cut the yellow/black made the circuit like you showed and I still have a security light. Did the 10 min and 30 min and still a light. I'm just gonna drive it with the light on and hope that it just won't stop starting. LOL My Service Engine Light Soon light has been on for 3 or 4 years and the techs can't find anything either, so I'm not worried about a light.
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