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Comments
For the life of me, I can't ascertain if my connector is identical to yours... My car is a 2000 GT1; not sure if that year matters though..... But when I study this connector, it appears that my yellow pin A6 is on row "B"... Am I all confused.. or is that correct ????? I'm wondering if my connector & pin layout is identical to yours.....
Tommy
I hope I didn't break any forum rules; I'm new to the forum and the rules to put a photo here... hope I didn't do anything wrong....
My car continues to start & run fine... but that damn security light is still illuminated steady; not blinking.... Windchill is about 2 degrees today; I'd like to troubleshoot later today but just wish it would warm up a bit...
Thanks!
Thanks.... sorry 'bout the pics...
I too have the problem of a constantly illuminated security light, car starts and runs ok but I am worried about it. I live in a rural area, with areas of no cell coverage and little traffic and it's not safe to drive a car that could up and leave you stranded this time of year. It started with it coming on once in a while when driving, but would not be lit the next time you went somewhere. Then I had a few episodes of it not starting and did 10 minute reset a few times. After the last reset, about 2 miles down the road the security light came on and stayed on, has been on ever since. I have had the BCM out and checked the connectors for corrosion but I guess maybe I will take it out again and check it really well for loose connectors.
I found a black ground block on my inner drivers side fender that had alot of corrosion in it, was thinking of taking it apart but my boss sprayed some stuff in it that cleans the corrosion off and prevent it from doing it again, but he says will take a little while to work.
Just wondering what would make the light stay on constant, no signs of BCM malfunction before this and acts to me like a bad connection somewhere...
Crimson
In message 465 (and 466), you posted some very detailed photos of your connector. On your photo, you can clearly read the pin numbers on the edge of the connector. It appears that your connector is identical to mine, and our yellow wires are indeed on Pin B6, and the black wire you need to use as a ground point for your resistor is on pin A6. The Connector Diagram on my web page indicates that the yellow wire is on pin A6, but I got that diagram out of a 2003 CK Truck manual, which appears to have some different features, and also uses the name "Truck Body Control" in place of "Body Control Module" I took a look directly at my connector (in 20 degree weather) and found that indeed, my yellow wire goes to pin B6, and my black wire goes to pin A6. If I turn the connector around and look closely at those two pins, mine are shiny bright, and if I measure the resistance between them, I measure 2.2 Kohms, which is the value of the resistor that I soldered in.
On your first picture, where you are holding the connector in your hand, it appears that you have two mods, one for DRLs, and the other for the Passlock problem. I can make out that you have something going to the yellow wire, and then that something is wrapped in tape. It appears that a black wire is going into the other end of the tape, but I can't acertain that it is the black wire coming from pin A6. If it is, then you have done the fix correctly. The BCM should re-learn the new resistance value, and the Security Light should go out after the relearning process. If it doesn't, then I would suspect the BCM is not doing it's job. The next step might be to have a dealer read out the codes stored in the BCM. My local Chevrolet dealer charges $25 to do this, and my Pontiac Dealer charges $45, so shop around. I wish I could be of further assistance, but unfortunately, I don't have access to the shop manuals anymore.
Now 3 months later my car has to go back to the shop, very loud when driving and take foot off the gas, sounds like I have winter tires on my car but I don't.
PS: BTW, The ignition tumbler is in the dash too. One of techs from my work and I spent 3-4 hrs. one nite trying to figure this one out, with no luck. It's now been in the shop now for 2 weeks with no luck thus far.
Anyways, when it rains it pours; pouring here in Massachusetts right now.. I still want to attempt another try of this, but of course I have to wait for a better day here. I'm glad our connectors are identical Dick.. That's one hurdle out of the way for me.
Yes, you were correct regarding the drl mod visible in one of my pics. I did that mod three years ago and it works flawlessly for me. The two blue wires that are visible go to a 6 post slide switch hidden way in the back inside my glovebox, and I can choose to run my drl's from that slide switch, or turn them off at will. Most people on another popular forum just shut them off permanently, but I took it a step further and installed that switch; just in case they are required somewhere down the road... It was the opportune time to install the switch while I had access to everything.
I hope to try the mod again, but this time I will do the 10 minute thing right away. Last time I started the car and on the first attempt it started fine and ran fine. But next time I'll do the 10 min wait and see if that makes a difference.
I guess I inserted those pics with way too much resolution. That's another area that I have little knowledge; photography ! I'll have to make them smaller.... Anyways, I'll have another update, hopefully tomorrow.....
Is that black wire supposed to be a constant ground? I wonder if I should double check it for continuity for ground ???
Is that black wire supposed to be a constant ground?
________________________________________________
Yes. The black wire gets connected to ground through the BCM. When the connector is removed from the BCM, the black wire is floating. It goes ONLY to the Ignition Module.
Dick
Red
But anyways, can someone confirm for me exactly what dash lights illuminate when you put your key into the "on" position? I ask because yesterday I wanted to listen to the radio and I put it on the "on" position instead of the first click "acc". I noticed that my "service engine soon" light illuminates with the key position "on". For the life of me, I can't remember if it anways did that.. or if this is something that just recently started happening.
With the engine started and running, it runs fine and the "service engine soon" light does NOT illuminate. It illuminates only when the key is "on".. Just wondering if this was always the case for me and I never noticed it before, or if this is something new here....
The car is still starting and running fine; the only light illuminating is that dreaded "security" light. I hope to do this mod soon... taking me some time because I'm not quite limber enough as when I was a younger guy many years ago, lol.. But I'm trying though; I just need a bit of warmth so I can do it a bit more comfortably...
1. bad connection on some of the pins that connect to the BCM (checked)
2. a defect within the BCM (very rare) (how do you check? substitution?)
3. loss of serial data buss signal between the BCM (body control module) and the PCM (powertrain control module) (How?)
Whew ..... HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! Please.
With my security light constantly illuminated (no blinking at all) both before & after the mod, I must have an issue somewhere.
Today I also checked the ohm reading after I soldered in the resistor. The reading between the black / yellow was 2.16K ohm. So I believe the resistor was doing it's job correctly,
Dick, did you mention that you even cut the black wire on someone's car and the mod still worked? After you cut the black wire, to what side did you solder the resistor? The part going to the BCM, or the one going to the ignition area... I was trying to think in my head how the loop goes..... and how the 2.16K comes in to play.
I thought about trying to start the car without the center connector plugged in just to see if the securiity light would still illuminate, but I thought I'd better not, just in case...... That steady illumination has me stumped.......
1. Remove the "Security" light bulb.
2. Try replacing the BCM.
Yes, on my friend's 2002 Alero, I cut both the black and yellow wires, and connected a resistor between the black and yellow leads coming from the BCM connector.
Did you disconnect the battery while you were doing the mod?
(I don't know if this is important, but I would like to know for my own information)
If your car runs ok otherwise, then you have no need for the security light. You have bypassed the stuff that it tells you has been tampered with. The only use you now have for the security light is to determine when the system starts working again, which will probably be never.
I might end up goint to the junkyard and ask them if I can (try before buy?) a BCM. I don't know the guys there personably, but I at least know them good enough from school that I'll see if they can let me try a BCM. might be a longshot, but I can maybe try.
And if that fails, then I might either remove that darn light bulb, or cover it bt putting a strip of black electrical tape on the clear plastic dash where it shows through.. Something tells me it might be a nightmare to try and acxtually remove that little bulb... Have you ever done that.. is it an all day affair ???
Luckily for me, the dealership installed a new cylinder for me last year at no cost; it was under an extended warranty. back then I was doing the infamous "10 minute wait" too often, so he replaced the cylinder and cut me a new key too. All was fine from last year until a couple months when this light started to illuminate. My car starts fine; no 10 minute wait needed.... but the darn light is on steady; no blinking....
Oh boy Dick, I'm getting a few more gray hairs here my friend.... Just what I need, lol !!!
I'll keep you posted; I might do a little more troubleshooting later on today.... Thank you my friend for all your help here; I am sooooooo appreciative !!
If your problem with the security light constantly burning only occurs after the modification, my other thought is that you possibly connected the resistor between the black wire and the end of the severed yellow wire that heads back toward the ignition switch instead of connecting it to the end of the severed yellow wire going into the BCM.
I don't know what all goes on inside the BCM but will be interested to hear if the potential loaner BCM from the junkyard could resolve your problem. Have you ever tried reading the codes in your BCM to see what errors it is getting whenever your security light stays on?
As an aside, I started following this thread 2-3 months ago when the security light came on while driving my 2002 Impala. It happened after I hit a speed bump that gave the car a pretty good jolt. I was using my girlfriend's car key at the time and her keychain was filled with all kinds of others keys, a 6" leather strap with her name embossed on it...almost as big as a book mark, etc etc...very heavy. When I cut off the car and restarted it the security light did not come on. It hasn't come on since, but I keep waiting. Hopefully the combination of the jolt and the heavy keychain put undue stress on the ignition switch cylinder and caused my problem. I know I will never have excessive weight or keys on my ignition key ring(only the car key and the remote fob)after reading this thread.
Back to lurking.
Danny
The reason the dealership installed that new cylinder was because I was having intermittent issues where I'd have to do the 10 minute wait with the key on. After the 10 minute wait, the car would start fine... and run fine for days; only to have the 10 minute wait crop up again, maybe once a week.
But this symptom at present is a bit different as the light is illuminated steady, but the car starts fine and I do not need to do the 10 minute wait... it starts fine. So while I can drive the car fine and without any problems, that darn security light remains constantly illuminated.
I wonder if the mechanic bumped that yellow wire, or some other wire in that ignition area ??? I've never looked in that area so I have no idea as to the amount of wires there.. But I wonder if by chance that the culprit could be that yellow wire at the ignition ??? Just guessing here on my part.
I never have any heavy objects hanging on my key chain; just the Pontiac keyless entry remote control. And I doubt that the previous owner had anything neither; he is a 74 year old gent who bought the car brand new. That was a main reason I scoffed up this car; it was very, very well taken care of and there were absolutely no mods done to it. The car is almost pristene if I can say so myself. A rare find to find a 2000 GT1 in this condition. The elder gent still owns 15 Napa auto stores today too; all stores on the east coast. So he took immaculate care of it... I really found a gem here...
So.... that's how I stand now.. I didn't remove that resistor; I left it in place until I give it more thought or get any other ideas. I was wondering if I should try cutting that black ground wire, as Dick did in that Alero ???? Also... when I cut the yellow wire, I am 100% positive that I connected that resistor to the BCM end, and just taped up and tucked away the end of the yellow that goes to the ignition area.
That is correct, right ??? Because that did cross my mind wondering about that unused end going to the ignition......
If I do need a replacement BCM, does anyone know what year Grand Am's have the same model BCM as my 2000 ? A lot of our cars look quite similar and I'd have to go on the junkyard guys knowledge about what BCM is proper for my car....
I'll keep everyone posted.... I
I'm wondering if it might be worth it to have a look at that ignition wiring area; just to see if that yellow wire has come un-attached. I'm wondering if the mechanic who installed the new cylinder for me could have possible jarred a wire somewhere. Probably a longshot, but maybe worth a look anyways....
I think I'll have to remove the radio to gain access there, but I've had the radio out three years ago when the dealership ordered me a new radio because the existing one would loose 15 minutes of time daily. Luckily it was an extended warranty covered item (expensive!!!) They ordered me the new radio but I chose to install it as I wanted it right away; their appt. time was too long.... so I did it myself.
So I am familiar with removing the plastic trim piece in front of the radio / heater control area. If I can look in there with a small flashlight, maybe I could tell if something has come loosened... I sure wish it was summertime here now !!!
Brrr.... cold outside !
After you do the resistor mod, the yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch is no longer connected to anything. If you want to determine if that wire is broken between the ignition switch and the BCM, here's what you do:
1. Remove under dash panels on right side.
2. Find the yellow wire end that you have left over when you did the mod.
3. Connect a voltmeter negative lead to that yellow wire.
4. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to a Battery + connection.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. (I'm not sure it's labeled that,but you know what I mean)
6. The voltmeter should read somewhere between 10 volts and whatever your battery voltage is.
If the voltmeter reads like it's floating, then the wire is either broken, or the ignition switch hall switch is defective.
Now, all that said, It doesn't make any difference, because the yellow wire serves no other purpose than to connect the security module in the ignition switch to the BCM. Since you have done the resistor mod, that circuit no longer makes any difference, since you have substituted a resistor into the circuit instead of the security module.
From your last few posts, i'm pretty convinced that your problem is in the Body Control Module. AND..... I don't think you need to replace it!!!!
Here is why.
1. If you disconnect the yellow wire between the Ignition Switch and the BCM while the car is running, the SECURITY light will come on solid, and the car will continue to run.
2. Normally, if there is a fault in your security system (indicated by the SECURITY light being on solid), and you lose battery voltage to your BCM (disconnect your battery), you will not be able to start your car, and the SECURITY light will blink.
You have disconnected your battery several times now, and have still been able to start your vehicle. That means that whatever is wrong with your BCM does not get reset by removing the battery connection.
Therefore.... you don't have to worry about the SECURITY light. Put a piece of black tape over it, and drive around for a week.... start your car several times a day.... disconnect and reconnect your battery.... If your car keeps running, leave the tape over your security light and forget about the light being there. If for some reason your car doesn't start in the future, it will be because your BCM fixed itself, so then you can remove the tape from your security light, do the 10 minute reset until the light stops blinking, and be merrily on your way.
As far as ordering a new one from GM Parts Direct website, I'd bet those things most likely cost a few bucks..... And the only way to get a price from their website is to enter the exact GM part number. There's no catalog to browse...
If it's not too freezing tomorrow and for the heck of it I might check that unused yellow wire for voltage. I do have a nice digital voltmeter here already so I might as well check it. I just hope it's not too freezing; I'm not quite as limber as I used to be, lol......
Then... if all fails or if I just can't correct it, I'll have to do as you said; put a piece of black electrical tape over it and ignore it. As far as I know, I don't think the illumination of that security light causes any trouble code to show up at the yearly car inspection time... I hope not anyways.
By any chance would you happen to know what years of Grand Am's use the same (interchangeable) BCM modules? Just in case I did find one which is a different year than my 2000 GT1?
I'll poke around some more Dick and I'll post any new findings / results. And if I can't correct it then I guess I'll just tape over that security light and try to ignore it. Hard for me to do as I have a bad habit of being a perfectionist here, lol...
Thank you so much Dick for your continued help here...
Car had started fine in front of the house. Restarted fine in front of grocery store A. Would not start at all in front of grocery store B. Even though all the dash lights came on and the blower for the fan started running, nothing else would happen when the car was in the start or on position. I removed and reinserted the key attempting to start several more times. I even removed the key and inserted it upside down and tried starting. No love. Okay, I know I can skip all those steps...I was in denial at the time.
I turned the key to the accessory position. I don't think this was the right position to leave it in. I know the PRNDL3L2L1 gear shift indicator came on but not the trip odometer. I think the fan may have started. After a few moments in this position, I decided to advance the key to the on position. Now the security light started blinking in my message center display. There would be two-three blinks in orange of security followed by a red a battery light. On another part of the dash, the check engine display was illuminated. After 9-10 minutes, the security light stopped flashing and stayed solid orange. This once again alternated with the red battery symbol.(The battery is very new and has not given me hint of trouble). I tried turning the key from the on position to the start position. Nothing. I turned the key to the off and then back to the start position. Nothing. I may have done this again. I then may have pulled the key out of the ignition, reinserted and it and attempted to start. Anyway...it took 3-4 tries before the car would start. All lights cleared on the dash. I took the car to my Mom's house and borrowed her old one. I'm now trying to get in touch with a mechanic to get a repair made before I drive it again. In the meantime, if anyone here as an Impala and has gone through this procedure multiple times, I would appreciate it if you could help me streamline my steps.
Does anyone know if I can walk away from the car and come back and attempt a restart in 15-20 minutes as opposed to sitting in a freezing car for 10 minutes with the key in the ignition? In other words...once the blinking starts...does it time itself out whether you leave the key in the on position for all that time or do you just have to wait 10 plus minutes before you attempt a restart?
One last thing...my sympathies to anyone who has this problem. I never knew ten minutes sitting in a parking lot could be such a long time.
I haven't attempted any additional troubleshooting yet as winter weather is getting nasty here in New England. In fact, lots of lovely snow coming on Friday.. oh joy...
So I'll make some updates when necessary...
Happy holidays Dick, and everyone here in the forum. Maybe some day we'll win a lottery and get new cars !!! (maybe I should hint to Santa ??? )
My advise to anyone who is having this problem is to first, get hold of a GM Shop Manual for your car, and read the troubleshooting procedure for this problem. The shop manuals are very thorough, and will give you enough information to find out what should be replaced (or modified). I know.... the manuals cost a lot (Around $135 for the Grand Am), but they will save you that much if you keep your vehicle until it has 100000 miles on it.
They also have the complete wiring diagram on them, so you can trace wiring problems. Don't buy any of the aftermarket manuals... they don't have any information on the security systems.
Good luck.
Does anyone with an official shop manual recall the publisher and/or ISBN number?
http://www.goodwrench.com/Tips/OwnerManuals.jsp
For the 2002 Chevrolet Impala, go here:
http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=CHV&mk=Chevrolet+%26+Geo&yr=2- 002&md=Impala&dt=&module=&from=result&Style=W49ZX0CHESLB971&Sku=GMP02WCI&itemtyp- e=N&mscsid=DXMEAJ7VB31C8GALK1VU5RUSA1452RJD
Personally, I would call the 800 number on the web page and ask to make sure that the Security system wiring diagram is included in the schematics. I know that there is a difference between the preliminary shop manuals that I have seen from the Proving Grounds and the published manuals, but I would hope that none of the information is left out of the final versions.
Let's hope GM doesn't go bankrupt before we get our cars fixed!
I think I have convinced my mechanic to just cut my yellow wire for the time being.(after getting the car started...I'll live with the constant security light) He is still reluctant to add a resistor and in his words, potentially fry my BCM. He had referred me to an ex-GM mechanic but that fell through, and it's probably for the best as that mechanic didn't seem to think the resistor method would work and wanted to change my ignition cylinder immediately. He told Toby(my mechanic), that there are two small white wires that go to components in the ignition cylinder and they are constantly being twisted whenever the key is turned in the ignition. Is anybody familiar with what white wires he could be referring to?
In my mind, Dick's resistor solution is the most elegant and simplistic followed by another poster's mention of cleaning six small metal contacts in the ignition cylinder or possibly ignition switch. I wish this guy had included photos as I don't have any idea where these "fingerlike"(I think that's the term he uses) contacts are located or how difficult they are to access. I can believe that contacts would go bad more rapidly/often than a solid-state hall effect sensor.
Bulletin No.: 04-08-47-003
Date: August 31, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Security Light On, Engine Will Not Crank, Diagnostic Trouble Codes B2958 and/or B2960 (Repair Poor Terminal Connections at Body Control Module)
Models:
2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine that will not crank. Others may comment on the security light being on.
Technicians may find DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) B2958 and/or B2960.
Cause
These conditions may have several different causes. In each case, however, testing of the BCMs (Body Control Modules) replaced for these conditions are frequently found to be operating to specifications and are believed to have been replaced needlessly. A change was made to the BCM hardware in February of 2003. An updated BCM can be identified by a GMAN169 or higher number found on the BCM part label. This hardware change was made to prevent the remote possibility that a BCM, built after the GMAN169 number, could be the cause of these conditions.
Correction
The following are the likely causes of these conditions:
1. Damaged or loose/unseated terminals in these BCM connectors may cause a security light or no start condition:
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B9 (white wire, circuit 1459)
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B12 (black wire, circuit 1835)
^ BCM connector C2 (24-way, grey in color), terminal A3 (yellow wire, circuit 1836)
My darn security light is still on today, but my car starts & runs fine. I was thinking that when I get a fairly warmer day, I might take my radio out and do a visual inspection of the wires around the ignition; assuming I can see the wires via that route. I did have my radio out before because my Pontiac dealer oredered me a brand new one (warranty covered it, whew!) and I chose to install it myself as I wanted it done right away. They were going to schedual it 7 days later.......
Anyways, if I can see the wires there with the radio removed, hopefully I'll be able to at least make sure there are no loose connectors there. The Pontiac dealer did install a new cylinder and cut me a new key too so perhaps I should make sure all is firmly connected and intact there... Probably a longshot, but at this point I'm out of ideas...
Happy Holidays everyone !
A question comes to mind... How did the necessary voltage get cut off in the first place? I can't visualize where exactly it got shut off.. in the ignition area? Or the BCM area?
The 12 V you are missing is controlled by the BCM. If the BCM detects a fault in the Passlock system, it transmits a fault signal to the PCM through the serial buss, and the PCM shuts down the ignition and injectors. The BCM also controls the illumination of the SECURITY lamp in the dash.
The installation of a switch is covered very early in this thread, and it involves cutting a single wire and putting a switch between the two ends of the wire.
On another topic, there are many posts in this thread that refer to things such as:
Car won't start... have to wait a while, then it starts.
Car cuts out after hitting a bump
These are not necessarily problems related to the Passlock(tm) system. They are typical problems associated with either bad ignition, or bad fuel delivery. Any good mechanic will be able to cure these problems. He will first check for spark, and next, he will probably check the fuel filter, then the fuel pump.
If your security light does not come on, you should try another forum.
Post #21, Disable your Passlock! by raycorri
It is probably the one that is being referred to in Message 501 by Tommy01. There may be other posts about supplying power to the two circuits mentioned, but not within this thread, and if there is one, I don't think it's a good idea to implement it. Doing so would be bypassing both the Body Control Module AND the Powertrain Control Module.
For anyone who has Passlock problems on any vehicle OTHER THAN A 2002 Pontiac Grand Am, I would suggest going back and reading Post #21, #22, #23, and #50. Read them over very carefully. Post #50 has links to several pictures which show how to get to the three wires that go to the ignition switch. These are very helpful. You can actually do the modification that I suggest on my website (Post #394) by cutting the black and yellow wires shown in the fourth photo linked to in post #50, and then soldering a 2.7K resistor between the black and yellow wire ends that do not go to the ignition switch (leave the ends going to the ignition switch dangling.) In this manner, you know that you connected the resistor to the right place. Hokiemo, this applies especially to you, since we are not sure on which BCM connectors your wires go to on an Impala. Having read the last 109 posts, I'm not even sure that my little tutorial on my website even applies to ANY Grand Am other than the 2002 model. I used the shop manual to find out where those three wires from the ignition switch went, and as we have seen in recent posts, those three wires go to different pins and connectors on an Impala.
Again, please, if you are CERTAIN that your problem is caused by the passlock system, then your answer may lie in the posts I have mentioned above, but if your "SECURITY" light is not on or flashing, this is not the thread for you, and if you are a do-it-yourself-er, you should get the service manual for your vehicle and use it to diagnose your problem.
By the way, for anyone interested in a cheap way to access data on your particular vehicle, I contacted a company called "ALLDATAdiy", who have online manuals for just about every automobile. I asked them specifically if their online databank contains information about the wiring of security systems. Here is their reply:
"Hello,
Thank you for your interest in ALLDATA. To answer your question, ALLDATAdiy.com does supply factory wiring diagrams and connector views for GM vehicles. All diagrams are complete and include the passlock system. With your subscription, you will have online access to all the diagrams, repair information, and detailed Factory Technical Service Bulletins/Recalls for your vehicles. Also, all the information comes from the manufacturer, and is a single vehicle slice from our Professional Product utilized by more than 70,000 shops."
Their 1 year service is quite cheap ($27.00). contact them at:
http://www.alldatadiy.com
It went off before I arrived at the dealership. How stupid are they? A real mechanic needs an eye and a brain, not a computer to tell them what's wrong with a car.
My 2004 Grand am has 115,000 miles.
Every now and then the security light would come on over the past year.
Twice the car wouldn't start. The first time I waited 10 minutes and it started again.
The 2nd time (last week) nothing...so i had it towed to the dealer.
I was nervous thinking the repair would cost over $400. I waited 3 days for an answer. (my car was an emergency but not a priority over customers with appointments) Turns out they just charged me $105 for a diag fee and all they did was perform theft relearn and cleared the code
for code B2960.
I was assured i woudln't have a problem with the light anymore. I was relieved.
A week later, the light came on for 2 hours then shut off. I was now pissed.
I brought it back to the dealer and they can't pin point the problem unless the light is on. But how do I guarantee the light will be on when they get the car from the lot and drive it into the garage? This is going to be a waste of my time. But I don't want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere and can't start my car. What should I do?
I have just gotten my 2002 Impala back from an ex-GM mechanic this week. He came recommended by my mechanic who doesn't have the GM computers needed to work on the systems "correctly." Turns out the ex-GM mechanic didn't either and he wound up buying a BCM for twice the Internet price from a local parts dealer and then took the car by a GM dealership where he used to work and had them reprogram the BCM. The reprogramming cost $95 which was half the going shop rate. I wound up spending $600 and don't know if the problem will recur or not. At least now I know I have a current BCM so that rules it out in the future. My next security light will have me finding someone...anyone...who will install the resistor as mentioned previously in this thread...or at the very least cut the yellow wire coming from the ignition switch.(after first getting the car started.)
Poorer in VA...but wiser. Just bought a 2005 Lincoln Town Car as a back-up.
I know now that I have a current and uncorroded BCM, so my next step(if/when the security problem recurs) may be to contact someone who installs remote starters and have them cut the yellow wire, install the resistor, or install a bypass module for me. I think DEI(not related to Dale Earnhardt Incorporated, I believe) is a popular brand name that is commonly available on Ebay.
Oh, and to answer your question, as long as the problem is not BCM-related, you should continue to be able to remotely start your car or use your key, or heck, even a screwdriver, to start your car.