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Let us know what you find.
( IT STARTED ) glory be. the security light is still on and now the air bag light is too. wonder if they are related or just coincidence.
You can find out if the fuel pump relay has anything to do with the air bag light if you have a Service manual for your vehicle
just haven't had it happen to them. with the jumper in, is your air bag light on along with the sec. light on ?
I have not tried the toggle switch or electrode thing yet. What I did do was remove the plastic connector for the 3 passlock wires and hard wired them (well, currently with just some wire nuts but, they'll meet with solder soon) with the yellow, black and white wires they were originally connected to. At the time I was troubleshooting corrosion of those tin connectors and my high humidity area. I am just not 100% sure if it's the Passlock or the BCM at this point. As soon as I turn the key to ON, the Theft System light flashed for about 5 times then goes solid. The tach and speedo gauges are all that is telling me it's the BCM. I live in a high heat (100+) and high humidity (73%) area in Southern CA. Thanks for any help! -Tim
You really need a service manual for your vehicle. It will enable you to locate your BCM, if you have one, and will show the wiring for your particular vehicle. Go to message #599 and click on the link at the bottom of the message.
Thanks -Tim
I did find out you have a PASSLOCK 1 system though .
Thanks.
mcleff
Many of us here have successfully bypassed or disabled the security system on our Grand Ams and Aleros. I'm sure a similar fix could be used on Saturns of models which are similar, and around the same vintage.
Dick B.
Get a shop manual for your vehicle. This will have the part number of the Remote that you will need for your vehicle. Then go to a junk yard and buy a couple of GM remotes of that model. Replace the batteries, and then take them with you to a Chevrolet Dealer. They will charge you $25.00 to program your vehicle to accept the remotes. (The Pontiac dealer will charge you $40 for the same service.)
Thank you again.
Have a blessed day!!!!!!!!
I don't have a problem with the car cranking, or the security light on or flashing. But my factory alarm just started going off by itself setting in the yard two days ago. The keyless remote wont turn it off, so i have to get in the car and turn the ignition in the on position before it will turn off. Then again yesterday it did it again, So i thought if i disconnected the battery cable, The computer might reset itself, to no a vale two hours later it did it again. After i turn the ignition on and back off again, Then the remote will work, I've checked the door latch buttons"door ajar" their ok the dome lights turn off when supposed to. It doesn't have a remote starter.
Any help or Info would be thankful
Mark,,,
Dick
I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE and all the associated problems (squeaking interior, brake problems, infamous leaking coolant gasket, and blinking security light).
I do have a quick question regarding remote starters. Reading some previous posts, a remote starter shouldn't experience the passlock issue. However, I have had 2 different remote starters on this car and both have occasionally received the blinking security light when using the remote starter. After 10 minutes, I can start the car fine. Current starter is made by CompuSTAR.
Do you think the resistor fix will still work for me? Could it be something else causing this problem (bad BCM, Ignition Lock Cylinder)?
Thanks in advance.
Remember, any auto repair shop has to make a bit of profit for their work, and an hour to diagnose and repair is not unreasonable. On the other hand, $90/hour is outrageous, even though I know that most shops, (even my local bicycle shop) work at about that rate. $55/hour would seem reasonable to me, and I would gladly pay it. That's what my hometown auto mechanic charges, and I have yet to complain about his work.
Dealers have a habit of charging an outrageous hourly rate, and in my mind, it isn't justified, mainly because the mechanics working on the vehicles aren't that savvy. Show me a mechanic that has a degree in mechanical engineering, and a minor in electronics, and I'll agree that his expertise is worth that much. That said, that person should be able to do the repair in half the time, so you still shouldn't have to pay but , maybe, $55 for labor plus parts.
Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"
Other Olds Alero have tried this and it really works. Let me know if you try and it solves your starting security problem.
It sounds like you have enough knowledge about automobile wiring to have figured out that taking the headlamp fuse out will keep your battery from running down. I would think you can troubleshoot this problem yourself, and find the short in your system if you purchase a shop manual. At any rate, your inquiry does not belong in this thread. Try searching for something to do with headlights not turning off. Oh, and by the way, Try to use correct grammar. It really helps us to understand your problem if we can decipher what you are trying to say.
I do not believe you need a new key. This thread deals with Pontiac security systems which have the resistor and switches as part of the ignition switch. If your vehicle is between 1999 and 2003, it's likely you don't have a system which relies on a circuit in the ignition key. What year and model is your pontiac?
1. When the car won't start, is the "SECURITY" light flashing?
2. After you do the 10-12 minute relearn process, does the "SECURITY" light go out?
3. Has your "SECURITY" light ever come on solid and stayed on after the vehicle has been running for at least a minute or so?
You can probably find the solution to your problem in one of the following messages in this thread:
#21-23
#50 (be sure to click on the links and view the pictures)
#209
#213
#394 (follow the link marked "Grand Am Passlock Security Fix")
#504
#506
#560
There are descriptions of many people's problems in many of the other posts, but if you read just these few messages, and read them thoroughly, you will have the answer to all but 0.01% of the Passlock problems.
And then, there is my usual suggestion:
Get a genuine Service Manual for your particular vehicle
My suggestion is to get an Online Manual from the following source:
ALLDATADIY
http://www.auto-facts.org/automotive-passkey-systems.html
2002 Grand Am Passlock Mod
I have never had the passlock problem since.
DO NOT PAY ANYONE MORE THAN $2.50 FOR A NEW KEY. In my 2002 Grand Am SE, I use cheap keys made at the Home Depot key counter. Many GM cars need the special keys, but not this model. Another way to check if you need one of the electronic keys is to look at the side of your ignition key, near the bottom of the black coating, and see if there is a "+" stamped on the key. If not, then your key is good as long as it will allow you to turn the ignition switch.
Dick B.
www.bergerweb.net
I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero that's been having the passlock problem (will not start, must wait ten minutes, etc.). I came across your website with the fix (bergerweb) so I thought I'd try it. I'm in the middle of fixing it right now, but before I cut any wires or anything, I found what might be a difference in my car and your grandam and wanted some advice in how to move forward.
On your site, the middle connector for the body control module goes from A1-A12, left to right. However, mine is the opposite (A12-A1 left to right), and also the black wire comes out of the A6 port and the yellow wire out of the B6 port, if that makes sense. I know the wires shouldn't matter, but I just wanted your advice before I cut the wrong wire...my understanding is that I should strip "my" yellow wire (B6) and cut the black wire (A6) and solder the resistor as instructed, but I just wanted to check. Thanks for your time!
I just had this problem, and solved it yesterday
I will probably stop posting this suggestion on this Pontiac thread, since everyone here wants to do the mechanical thing. Alero owners had the same starting problem and have used this solution. These two cars are essentially the same and have the same problems. Save yourself some time and money. If you try it, please reply.....Ja
As the lock cylinder wears over the years, metal flakes from the lock cylinder accumulate around the magnet, which disrupt the magnetic field. When enough metal flakes are present, there will not be sufficient magnetic flux to fully energize the hall effect switch. When that happens, instead of the electronics reading the value of the resistor inside the passcode mechanism, it reads the value of the resistor plus the resistance of the hall switch, thus getting a false reading.
It is possible that applying a sufficient amount of 3 in 1 oil into the ignition switch serves to wash the metal filings out of the mechanism, thus restoring the magnet to its full power. The system will then work properly until more metal filings accumulate around the magnet. Flushing the ignition cylinder with any lubricant or cleaner may fix the problem many times, but if filings happen to get lodged around the magnet and don't get washed away, you may have to either remove the lock barrel from the cylinder and clean it manually, or replace it, or do the resistor mod to fix your problem.
Also, this is a fix for only ONE of the FOUR components that make up the Passlock II system, which are:
Lock Cylinder
Wiring
Body Control Module
Powertrain Control Module
Happy troubleshooting.
The car should only try to start when you turn the key to the start position. If it wants to start every time the weather is cold, that's a big problem. It's a good thing it wont catch, else it may drive away when you don't want it to when the weather is cold.
I don't think we can diagnose your problem without you telling us the year and make of your car. I have a feeling you may have a plugged up fuel filter, which would cause this type of problem more often when the weather is cold.
On your next post, please use english, rather than text-speak. It is extremely hard to understand.
And yes, I've used oil on the key but it didn't turn off the light