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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • scrappyoodlescrappyoodle Member Posts: 2
    My daughters 02 grand am is having issues. The history is that we bought it wrecked a couple years ago. Just a rear end and front corner wreck. pounded out, screwed the rear bumper cover back on and good to go is what it looked like the previous owners did. Has always run strong until now. We are in AZ where its about 115 right now during the days. She ran it out of gas on Friday on the freeway. I took her gas and no problems Friday, Saturday or Sunday. On Monday her hubby used it to drive to work because his water pump went out on Sunday. Tuesday or Wednesday he drove to work and then she dropped him off and drove home. When she got home she noticed that he had taken his keys out of the ignition and left it running. After all don't you know its cool for a car to run and drive when you can take the key out? STUPID! So she put her key in to turn the car off. She drove to work and it started fine. She went to leave work and it would just rrrrrrrrrrr.... and not get gas, so she did like I showed her when I rescued her on the freeway and turned the key on and off a couple times to give it gas and then it started fine. All was well until this morning when it just won't get gas at all. So hubby of course keeps turning it over until he wears the battery down some. STUPID! So I tried to jump it and it still isn't getting gas. We read up and thought maybe its the security system. But the security light isn't flashing. We have of course tried the 10 minute key thing and it doesn't change anything. With the key "on" what we see is the oil light, security, check engine, and wiper fluid lights are on solid. The wiper fluid thing has a leak so it always stays on. Her oil is low but she only has a few dollars and doesn't want to waste money on oil if its not going to start. When we turn it over to try and start it, the only light that stays on is the check engine light. Any clues?
  • scrappyoodlescrappyoodle Member Posts: 2
    It's throwing no codes and is making a gurgling noise at the fuel pump. not the ggggggrrrrr that my cadillac pump makes and is pretty much the same pump. sounds like someone making milk bubbles with a straw? then of course the stupid battery is completely dead now that I turned the key on and off like 5 times! you know we really thought this was a decent car but not so sure now. ALSO when we were turning the key on and off, the stupid dinger got possessed and wouldn't stop dinging even with the key on for awhile and the door closed.
  • tripower1tripower1 Member Posts: 25
    Did you read post 665 where he jumpered out the fuel pump relay, this would rule out the fuel pump. then chech the relay contacts to make sure the relay is getting a good connection also try replacing the relay, it's cheep and it may have bad contacts inside which could reduce the voltage to the fuel pump not letting it run fast enough to pump up pressure. that would be why you had to turn the key on and off several time's to get enough pressure built up to start the car, the gurgling noise could be a slow running pump or partley plugged up pump. Every time I've had a problem with a car not getting fuel all my test show the fuel pump was working and the problem wound up being the fuel pump.
    Let us know what you find.
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    Could it be the fuel filter ?. You said your daughter ran it out of gas . When the fuel gets that low in the tank , particles could get pumped through the system .
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Markjr54 said: i took the fp relay out and with a paper clip i jumpered # 30 to # 87 .
    ( IT STARTED ) glory be. the security light is still on and now the air bag light is too. wonder if they are related or just coincidence.

    You can find out if the fuel pump relay has anything to do with the air bag light if you have a Service manual for your vehicle
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    You may have better luck finding a solution to this problem in a different forum. This doesn't seem to be a SECURITY issue. Try searching for fuel pump problems, or difficulty in starting.
  • danswwdansww Member Posts: 1
    The car died on the freeway thought was out of gas. Got more gas no start?@#$%! Replaced the fuel filter and messed with this car for some time before I found this blog. I removed #18 relay and jumped 30 with 87 wataboom it started. I will be replacing the relay shortly. I will let you know. Thank you. Dan
  • tasmanian78tasmanian78 Member Posts: 4
    Yeah it was my fuel pump!
  • markjr54markjr54 Member Posts: 7
    if your security light is still on like mine, a new relay probably won't fix it, but try it any way. the ones that say the sec. will not shut the car off driving down the road
    just haven't had it happen to them. with the jumper in, is your air bag light on along with the sec. light on ?
  • compusmithcompusmith Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am SE 3.1L AT. For quite awhile now I have been having intermittent passlock probs that just wont go away. I have noticed that in the summer months (100+) it sometimes won't start. It cranks and starts for about a sercond or two then quits. Yep, just like about 99% of these posts. My "Theft System" light stays illuminated when in the ON position. When it does start for that 1-2 secs the Theft System light goes off. Anyway, one thing different on my diagnostic that I have yet to hear (I have not read all 600+ posts) is that when it does start, sometime my Tach and Speedo gauges go whacko until I shut it off and restart it. Then they perform like normal. One mechanic told me that was an indication of a defective BCM. Problem, I cannot find my BCM anywhere. Does anyone know where the BCM on a 1997 Grand Am is located? or if it even exists? One mechanic told me it doesn't have a BCM. I found the PCM but, not the BCM.
    I have not tried the toggle switch or electrode thing yet. What I did do was remove the plastic connector for the 3 passlock wires and hard wired them (well, currently with just some wire nuts but, they'll meet with solder soon) with the yellow, black and white wires they were originally connected to. At the time I was troubleshooting corrosion of those tin connectors and my high humidity area. I am just not 100% sure if it's the Passlock or the BCM at this point. As soon as I turn the key to ON, the Theft System light flashed for about 5 times then goes solid. The tach and speedo gauges are all that is telling me it's the BCM. I live in a high heat (100+) and high humidity (73%) area in Southern CA. Thanks for any help! -Tim
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Tim,
    You really need a service manual for your vehicle. It will enable you to locate your BCM, if you have one, and will show the wiring for your particular vehicle. Go to message #599 and click on the link at the bottom of the message.
  • compusmithcompusmith Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where the BCM is located on this car? I'm troubleshooting and my Chilton's doesn't even mention it anywhere.

    Thanks -Tim
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    not sure if you can use this . .http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/
    I did find out you have a PASSLOCK 1 system though .
  • mcleffmcleff Member Posts: 2
    All of those grand am owners are having same problems we've had with our 2003 Saturn L200. Generally this happens when my husband tries to start the car, but it has happened to me also. Usually it means a 15-20 minute wait before it will start, but yesterday it was an hour and a half. In fact, I was calling for a tow when I tried one more time and it started. Does anyone know of a way to disable this damn thing?
    Thanks.
    mcleff
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    This is the first I've heard of this problem existing on Saturns, but I'm not surprised. Before going any further, you might try reading all the posts mentioned in post #599. That may give you a clue of how to bypass the problem, but the best thing I can advise is to get hold of a service manual for your particular vehicle, and follow the wiring of the security system. Then post any wiring diagrams that show the hall effect switches in the ignition system on this forum. We will then try to figure a way to bypass your particular vehicle. It would also be helpful if you post the pages from your owner's manual regarding the security system.

    Many of us here have successfully bypassed or disabled the security system on our Grand Ams and Aleros. I'm sure a similar fix could be used on Saturns of models which are similar, and around the same vintage.

    Dick B.
  • djohn139djohn139 Member Posts: 4
    I agree with you! Customer Service was a big joke. I am so excited to write I finally traded in my piece of junk 99 Grand Am. I had so many problems with it in the past 3 years. I would never go anywhere in it because I never knew when it would not start. I had the passlock disconnected but still had problems with it starting! I had to have it towed to trade it in because it would not start. Oh well-Good luck to everyone and thank God I no longer own a Pontiac!
  • 99crapowner99crapowner Member Posts: 1
    hey I was having the same problem so I did what you said and the fp finally got some voltage now my question is should I hook the fp relay back up or not
  • lhelferlhelfer Member Posts: 6
    I bought an 01 Grand AM GT & the owner had lost the keyless remote to the vehicle. I have attempted to order a replacement online at a couple of places, giving my VIN #, and have been told that it appears I may require an older type remote that came on early models of 2001 grand am and they refer me to GM dealer. Does anyone have any recommendations?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    My advise...
    Get a shop manual for your vehicle. This will have the part number of the Remote that you will need for your vehicle. Then go to a junk yard and buy a couple of GM remotes of that model. Replace the batteries, and then take them with you to a Chevrolet Dealer. They will charge you $25.00 to program your vehicle to accept the remotes. (The Pontiac dealer will charge you $40 for the same service.)
  • godsblessings8godsblessings8 Member Posts: 1
    We want to Thank you for putting this on this web-site. This helped our son out tremendously. He had the same problem with his 2003 Grand Am, last night. So, I check around on the internet this morning & found this site. I found your answer about the security system on his car. We went by the instructions and within 10 mins. his car started, Praise the Lord!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Thank you again.
    Have a blessed day!!!!!!!!
  • mark35594mark35594 Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: Hello.. New here,
    I don't have a problem with the car cranking, or the security light on or flashing. But my factory alarm just started going off by itself setting in the yard two days ago. The keyless remote wont turn it off, so i have to get in the car and turn the ignition in the on position before it will turn off. Then again yesterday it did it again, So i thought if i disconnected the battery cable, The computer might reset itself, to no a vale two hours later it did it again. After i turn the ignition on and back off again, Then the remote will work, I've checked the door latch buttons"door ajar" their ok the dome lights turn off when supposed to. It doesn't have a remote starter.
    Any help or Info would be thankful
    Mark,,,
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I didn't know GM had Factory Alarm systems. They must have started putting them in on the newer models. At any rate, on a 2005, you should be able to get it fixed by the dealer, hopefully under warranty.
    Dick
  • maxespmaxesp Member Posts: 1
    I was have a problem like everyone on here with my pass lock system. My security light was coming on every so often. The problem was starting to get worse. I could not figure it out. I tried changing ignition keys but that did not work. I did not realize the answer in my case was so easy. I had my cell phone charger pulled in to my cigarette lighter and realized the security light was coming on ever since I plugged it in. I just left my charger plugged in all the time because it was easier. Once I unplugged the charger the light came on once right after but then never came on again. I still use my charger but only as needed now. So far so good. It has been 2 months since it last went on.
  • harmfulharmful Member Posts: 1
    Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for posting information on this problem.

    I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE and all the associated problems (squeaking interior, brake problems, infamous leaking coolant gasket, and blinking security light).

    I do have a quick question regarding remote starters. Reading some previous posts, a remote starter shouldn't experience the passlock issue. However, I have had 2 different remote starters on this car and both have occasionally received the blinking security light when using the remote starter. After 10 minutes, I can start the car fine. Current starter is made by CompuSTAR.

    Do you think the resistor fix will still work for me? Could it be something else causing this problem (bad BCM, Ignition Lock Cylinder)?

    Thanks in advance.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    A remote starter does not necessarily mean you won't have problems with the security system. It depends on the remote starter. You should have better luck taking your question to the installer who sold you your remote starter. They could tell you if they installed a bypass resistor in your system. Even then, you could experience problems if there is corrosion in any of the connectors on your Body Control Module, or you have a defective BCM.
  • illadelfilladelf Member Posts: 5
    Hey guys, I know that this isn't the right thread for this but it seems to be the most viewed and I have been trying to get this question answered. It seems that another common problem with these grand ams (besides windows, side mirror, blinkers, etc.) is the sunroof going. It used to get stuck about and inch from being closed and i just had to apply some pressure and hit the button again and it would go down. I would really like to completely fix this, but if nobody knows how, can I at least get it to close all the way? Thanks for your help....
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Some things, you just take to the dealer to have fixed. A sunroof can be fixed at any GM dealer... it doesn't have to be a Pontiac dealer (thank goodness) The Chevrolet dealer will do it for you, at about 25% less cost. Same holds true of windows, and side mirrors. There is nothing special about the blinkers. It's straight forward electrical troubleshooting. Its either the wiring, the blinker module, bulbs, or switches. Get a Shop Manual and have at it.
  • illadelfilladelf Member Posts: 5
    Oh, well I fixed the windows and the mirror myself as well as the blinkers (it was just the hazard switch). I was just wondering if there was an easy fix for this as well. They were going to charge me $90 +parts for my blinkers because "it would take at least an hour" when I did it myself in 2 minutes for $20. I'm sick of these people taking advantage of everyone and I'm doing everything that I possibly can on my own. Wasn't sure if anyone knew who the problem could be...
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    illadelf, You are fantastic! I don't think I could even diagonse the blinker problem down to the hazard switch in two minutes, much less remove it, take it to the parts shop, return home, and re-install it. As a matter of fact, I don't think I could find an auto parts supplier that could sell me a hazard switch for a specific year Grand Am in that amount of time.

    Remember, any auto repair shop has to make a bit of profit for their work, and an hour to diagnose and repair is not unreasonable. On the other hand, $90/hour is outrageous, even though I know that most shops, (even my local bicycle shop) work at about that rate. $55/hour would seem reasonable to me, and I would gladly pay it. That's what my hometown auto mechanic charges, and I have yet to complain about his work.

    Dealers have a habit of charging an outrageous hourly rate, and in my mind, it isn't justified, mainly because the mechanics working on the vehicles aren't that savvy. Show me a mechanic that has a degree in mechanical engineering, and a minor in electronics, and I'll agree that his expertise is worth that much. That said, that person should be able to do the repair in half the time, so you still shouldn't have to pay but , maybe, $55 for labor plus parts.
  • ja33ja33 Member Posts: 23
    At 36,000 miles my 2001 Olds Alero started having passlock starting problems. At first it was every other month and then after 2 years it happened with every other turn of the key. Since I am not the least bit mechanically inclined, I tried any and all procedures suggested on the internet except cutting wires, or installing a new switch. Eight months ago I decided to clean the grooves on my ignition key with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP. I did it again for the next 3 days to gain little confidence in the procedure. THE ALERO CONTINUES TO START EVERY TIME

    Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"

    Other Olds Alero have tried this and it really works. Let me know if you try and it solves your starting security problem.
  • lsuzilsuzi Member Posts: 1
    Thank you! Fix took me about 45 minutes...dealer wanted $600 to fix. The resistor cost 99 cents. Senior citizen on fixed income. Thanks again for your help, Mr. Berger! :)
  • crazyeyez462crazyeyez462 Member Posts: 2
    ok so i have a 04 ga gt v6 and since the day i got it the drivers window didn't work. (bought new :lemon: ) and now the lights ( headlights and tail lights flicker ) mostly when it is off but does sometimes do it when running not as much took it to the dealership they claimed they fixed it one week later the same thing started happening i found that if i take out the head lamps fuse and one next to it it will stop but i have to do that every time i go somewhere so i can get home is that a pass lock issue??? bcm??? i think the dealership put a new bcm in ill check on that and idk what to do i cant afford a new car and i dont wanna take my fuses out 4 tiems a day its just a hassle :shades: thanks a bunch u can email me also if u know the problem the faster fixed the better brazyeyez462@aim.com
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    If you took it to the dealer while it was in warranty, and they didn't fix it, bring it back to the dealer, along with the original work order. They will have to fix it under warranty.
    It sounds like you have enough knowledge about automobile wiring to have figured out that taking the headlamp fuse out will keep your battery from running down. I would think you can troubleshoot this problem yourself, and find the short in your system if you purchase a shop manual. At any rate, your inquiry does not belong in this thread. Try searching for something to do with headlights not turning off. Oh, and by the way, Try to use correct grammar. It really helps us to understand your problem if we can decipher what you are trying to say.
  • crazyeyez462crazyeyez462 Member Posts: 2
    I did check all of these wires and didnt find anything (used volt meter) and my ?? is could the pass lock issue be the cause of flickering headlamps??? and i checked the dealer invoice and they say they reset my bcm and charged me a good bit to do so should i cut the passlock wire and would that help??and by the way i didnt come to this forum b/c i thought it was exactly my problem i came because i thought it might help me solve my problem or at least point me in the right direction thanks for the help guys.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I wouldn't think the passlock issue would cause any headlight problems. Yes, both are controlled by the BCM, but they are entirely separate parts of the programming. The more likely suspect would be anything related to Daytime Running Lights. There is a relay associated with Daytime Running Lights which may be the problem, but without a service manual, it would be hard to trace down the cause.
  • ccsmileybearccsmileybear Member Posts: 3
    I have had my car at 3 different shops and towed 5 times within a month. My car will not start, wants to turn over, everytime i had my car towed to a shop it would start right up!!! they never could find a thing wrong with it, till i had it towed again yesterday morning to pep boys, which the time before put a new ignation in and switch and charged me over 400.00 for nothing, as it did not fix my problem. pepboys said this time my car would not start, and they could find the problem now, they told me it was the security system that i had to get it towed to the dealership, when the car go to the dealership they were able to start it!!! the man spent over 4 hours on my car and could not find a thing wrong with my car!!! in which he did not charge me a dime. So what i have heard now is i need to go get a new key made at the dealership for about 40.00, here is a web page that had info on it about this pass key, i am hoping this works as i have a daughter i take to work by 7am then me and my 2 yr old grandson waste 20 min in store before i take him to school, between my paying for my towing, taxi cabs service etc this is so killing me!!! hope this helps and i am going to try the key and keep my fingers crossed!! http://www.auto-facts.org/automotive-passkey-systems.html
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    ccsmileybear,
    I do not believe you need a new key. This thread deals with Pontiac security systems which have the resistor and switches as part of the ignition switch. If your vehicle is between 1999 and 2003, it's likely you don't have a system which relies on a circuit in the ignition key. What year and model is your pontiac?

    1. When the car won't start, is the "SECURITY" light flashing?
    2. After you do the 10-12 minute relearn process, does the "SECURITY" light go out?
    3. Has your "SECURITY" light ever come on solid and stayed on after the vehicle has been running for at least a minute or so?

    You can probably find the solution to your problem in one of the following messages in this thread:
    #21-23
    #50 (be sure to click on the links and view the pictures)
    #209
    #213
    #394 (follow the link marked "Grand Am Passlock Security Fix")
    #504
    #506
    #560

    There are descriptions of many people's problems in many of the other posts, but if you read just these few messages, and read them thoroughly, you will have the answer to all but 0.01% of the Passlock problems.

    And then, there is my usual suggestion:
    Get a genuine Service Manual for your particular vehicle
    My suggestion is to get an Online Manual from the following source:
    ALLDATADIY
  • ccsmileybearccsmileybear Member Posts: 3
    Hi, my car is a pontiac grand am, i went and got the manual out of my car, and read in there about the passlock, also after doing research it does show where you need to get a new key, which makes sense. i am going to try that first and hopefully that works. if not i am going to trade off my car, after reading this post what a nightmare and i do not want to have to worry if my car will start every time i shut it off!!

    http://www.auto-facts.org/automotive-passkey-systems.html
  • ccsmileybearccsmileybear Member Posts: 3
    ooops 2002 pont gran am
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    2002 Pontiac Grand Am does not use a special key. I did the modification as shown in this link:
    2002 Grand Am Passlock Mod

    I have never had the passlock problem since.

    DO NOT PAY ANYONE MORE THAN $2.50 FOR A NEW KEY. In my 2002 Grand Am SE, I use cheap keys made at the Home Depot key counter. Many GM cars need the special keys, but not this model. Another way to check if you need one of the electronic keys is to look at the side of your ignition key, near the bottom of the black coating, and see if there is a "+" stamped on the key. If not, then your key is good as long as it will allow you to turn the ignition switch.

    Dick B.
    www.bergerweb.net
  • ja33ja33 Member Posts: 23
    If you woud take a look at my message #695, i have a cheaper solution. Just put a drop of three in one oil on your present ignition key. Try it but do to take a look at my message. It is now over 11 months since I stopped having the passlok security starting problem. Alero owners had the same problem, tried the oil and problem resolved.... Too easy...Ja
  • mizzoustu702mizzoustu702 Member Posts: 2
    Hello Mr. Berger,

    I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero that's been having the passlock problem (will not start, must wait ten minutes, etc.). I came across your website with the fix (bergerweb) so I thought I'd try it. I'm in the middle of fixing it right now, but before I cut any wires or anything, I found what might be a difference in my car and your grandam and wanted some advice in how to move forward.

    On your site, the middle connector for the body control module goes from A1-A12, left to right. However, mine is the opposite (A12-A1 left to right), and also the black wire comes out of the A6 port and the yellow wire out of the B6 port, if that makes sense. I know the wires shouldn't matter, but I just wanted your advice before I cut the wrong wire...my understanding is that I should strip "my" yellow wire (B6) and cut the black wire (A6) and solder the resistor as instructed, but I just wanted to check. Thanks for your time!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Cut the yellow wire, and solder a resistor from B6 to the black wire on A6.
  • jhweejhwee Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for your message, it is very helpful.
    I just had this problem, and solved it yesterday
  • ja33ja33 Member Posts: 23
    Before you start cutting wires and all that "mechanical neat stuff", put a drop of three in one oil on your ignition key and clean it. Then see my message #695 for details for an easy solution to the passlok security starting problem. It may sound too simple but it has worked for me for 11 months without failure.

    I will probably stop posting this suggestion on this Pontiac thread, since everyone here wants to do the mechanical thing. Alero owners had the same starting problem and have used this solution. These two cars are essentially the same and have the same problems. Save yourself some time and money. If you try it, please reply.....Ja
  • drhrejsadrhrejsa Member Posts: 5
    Ever sense I got my car, Ive had a problem with it wanting 2 start when the weather is cold, it tries 2 start, but wont "catch" & turn over. Ive had a new fuel pump put in 2 yrs ago & it works fine. The problem has gotten worse over the yrs & now I'll run my battery dead trying 2 start it. Once the car has started it runs gr8, no problems 2 all. The only time my sec light comes on is when im driving steady for about 4-5 hrs to florida. I live in NC. even b4 the new fuel pump Ive had this problem. It only happens when the weather gets below 45. It takes many tries over a 30-45 min time frame almost like the engine has 2 warm up by trying 2 start b4 it will start. b4 it got this bad I could put it in neutral 4 it 2 start, now that wont wrk anymore. if any1 can help with this mystery I would b gr8ful. the dealership cant find anything wrong with it. Im @ a loss as 2 what 2 do. Im a single mom & cant afford much more $. I have friends that will help fix it, but they havent had this problem b4 & r @ a loss 2.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    There is a reasonable explanation why putting 3 in 1 oil on your key may solve the problem in certain cases. The GM lock mechanism used with Passlock II consists of a locking cylinder that turns a rotating magnet to the point where it is located in front of a stationary hall effect sensor. The sensor then goes from a high impedance to a low impedance, effectively shorting a resistor that is inside the passcode mechanism between the black and yellow wires. This causes an analog voltage proportional to the size of the resistor to be present on the yellow wire. This analog voltage is read by the Body Control Module, and converted to a digital value. Then the Body Control Module compares that value to the one it has previously stored when it was programmed. If the two values are within a reasonable tolerance, the Body Control Module allows the vehicle to run. If not, The Body Control Module sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module that tells it that a theft attempt is in progress, and the Powertrain Control Module will not allow the Fuel Injectors to operate.
    As the lock cylinder wears over the years, metal flakes from the lock cylinder accumulate around the magnet, which disrupt the magnetic field. When enough metal flakes are present, there will not be sufficient magnetic flux to fully energize the hall effect switch. When that happens, instead of the electronics reading the value of the resistor inside the passcode mechanism, it reads the value of the resistor plus the resistance of the hall switch, thus getting a false reading.

    It is possible that applying a sufficient amount of 3 in 1 oil into the ignition switch serves to wash the metal filings out of the mechanism, thus restoring the magnet to its full power. The system will then work properly until more metal filings accumulate around the magnet. Flushing the ignition cylinder with any lubricant or cleaner may fix the problem many times, but if filings happen to get lodged around the magnet and don't get washed away, you may have to either remove the lock barrel from the cylinder and clean it manually, or replace it, or do the resistor mod to fix your problem.

    Also, this is a fix for only ONE of the FOUR components that make up the Passlock II system, which are:
    Lock Cylinder
    Wiring
    Body Control Module
    Powertrain Control Module

    Happy troubleshooting.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Ever sense I got my car, Ive had a problem with it wanting 2 start when the weather is cold, it tries 2 start, but wont "catch" & turn over.

    The car should only try to start when you turn the key to the start position. If it wants to start every time the weather is cold, that's a big problem. It's a good thing it wont catch, else it may drive away when you don't want it to when the weather is cold.

    I don't think we can diagnose your problem without you telling us the year and make of your car. I have a feeling you may have a plugged up fuel filter, which would cause this type of problem more often when the weather is cold.

    On your next post, please use english, rather than text-speak. It is extremely hard to understand.
  • drhrejsadrhrejsa Member Posts: 5
    2003 grand am v6. The car has a problem starting when the weather is cold. I get into the car, I turn the key to start the car and the car will not start. It tries to start but will not turn over (?), forgive me if this is not the proper way of saying it. I have had this problem for 3 years now, but it has gotten worse over the past three months. I had a new fuel pump put in along with the fuel filter two years ago. On 10-26-09, the battery went dead with trying to start the car. It takes between 30-45 mins. of trying to start the car before it will start. Once the car has started it runs great with no problems until the next morning when I try to start it again. I am so desperate to find out what the problem is, as I live in the middle of no where & have 2 young children, that having a car I know is going to start up when I turn the key is very important to me, Im willing to take the english insult with a smile. I am sorry for not using english the first time I posted and do hope that someone can help me. Thank you all.
  • alexgorodalexgorod Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has 2004 Grand AM and it didn't start several times with the security light blinking but worked after "10 minute reset". The security light is constantly on lately but the cars starts OK. Does it mean that the contact of yellow wire is broken? Will it start after I change the battery - I think that "cut the yellow wire" solution requires to connect it before changing the battery.

    And yes, I've used oil on the key but it didn't turn off the light :)
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