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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • damgrandamdamgrandam Member Posts: 1
    i've been up for the last 12 hours looking through this and other websites trying to figure out what exactly is wrong with my 97 2.4l auto.

    i have tried both the reset and relearn procedures.

    my problem isn't a blinking light. i've had a solid security light the entire time. it does not turn off. it never blinks, it never has. and the car won't start. it has thrown a code, but i haven't had a chance to pick up a scanner yet. but does that sound like a passlock problem or would the cell be the reason the car doesn't start?

    i have replaced starter, battery, checked and cleaned the prongs for all fuses, looked throughout the car for any signs of damaged or corroded wires but no luck. the fuel pump turns on while the car is in the run position. i get fire when i use starting fluid, but it seems like the injectors are disabled. everything else in the car works (all electrical) it just refuses to start.

    i was given the car in this condition and the only history i know is that it was running fine and then someone wanted to buy it and took it for a drive during a heavy downpour, and after they shut it down it hasn't started since.

    ideas?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    There's no difference I'm aware of.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    towguy609,
    You need a service manual in order to figure out whether the resistor fix will work on your vehicle. But here is one thing you can check. Look at the side of your key. Is there a little "+" sign on the side of it, stamped in the metal just below the black handle? There probably is, since GM switched over to these security keys on most vehicles in 2004. If so, you cannot use the resistor mod.
    If your key does have the "+" stamped on it, please post back here, with your year, make, model, auto/man trans, and engine size so that the rest of us will know.

    One more thing. If you have an aftermarket remote start system installed, chances are you will not be able follow the directions on the website you mentioned. You will also need a shop manual to find out which pins of the BCM to use to bypass the security system. I know that they are not the same as the 2002 manual trans Grand Am SE, which was the vehicle I modded when I wrote up those instructions.

    Good luck, and hope to hear back about your key.

    Dick
  • tshawntshawn Member Posts: 3
    This is great...! Can't wait to get home (on the bus) and try some 3 in 1 oil on the key first!!! Wouldn't that be a hoot?!!! Next will be the cutting of the "yellow data wire", who cares about a red light if the thing cranks all the time...Have already sunk almost as much into the car as I paid for it last year...any more on the class action suit? Recalls? Thank you all so much for the relevant information! BTW, no "+" on key.
  • bull99bull99 Member Posts: 1
    If you get an answer please let me know, I have the exact same problem after changing a bad starter on my sons 98 2.4L I have a steady security light never blinks and never goes off!! I have sprayed some starter fluid in the throttle body and it fired so I know that the injectors are shut down, I have tried to several times to run through the entire relearn sequence with no seccess....please help,

    Car ran great until I changed the starter with a new one,,,
  • towguy609towguy609 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry for the delay in response, our factory key does NOT have a + on it, just a small circle stamped into the metal.It is an after market remote start system which was my primary concern for the problems we are experiencing, Though, the problems are an exact match to problems related with the security system, security light sometimes stays on while driving, at times car does not start, run the 10 min key on process all is well, ect. Any help would be appreciated as this problem is rather annoying.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    towguy809,
    I'm going to speculate on what your problem is. Your symptoms seem to indicate that there is a mismatch between the resistance in your remote start bypass, and the resistance in the original ignition switch passlock system. This may be caused by either the installers of the remote starter choosing the wrong resistance value for the bypass, or after they installed it, the resistance of the original passlock system changed, or it could be constantly changing, which would be what causes your system to intermittently malfunction.
    If I were in your shoes, I would do the resistor mod on your vehicle, which would, in effect take care of both your problems, but... I would definitely install the resistor on the wires near the Body Control Module, as was described on my website. www.bergerweb.net Even so, you will have to get a service manual so that you can find out which two wires to use to solder in the resistor, as they may be on different pins on different model cars. The cheapest service manual is the online subscription service called
    ALLDATADIY
    where you can subscribe to online service manuals for each of your cars at only $27.00 per year. They give an example of what kind of information is available, and one of their examples is a Chevy Tahoe 1998 truck. Here is the schematic of the security system portion of that vehicle, and as you can see, everything about the passlock module of that vehicle is shown on one wiring diagram...
    1998 Chevy Truck C Tahoe 2WD
    Looking closely at the above diagram, you can see that on that vehicle, to do the resistor bypass, you would have to find the EVO/Passlock module, cut the yellow wire going into it, and solder a resistor between pin b5 and b7 of that module. Doing this would render the Security system inoperative, thereby getting rid of the no-start problem, which is in your case a good thing, since your security system is more of a problem than a desirable feature.
    Good luck, and I hope you find the service manual to your liking. I subscribed to it for one year when I first had my Passlock Problem, and was very satisfied. While I had the subscription, I made paper copies of pages that I thought would be useful in the future.
    Dick B
  • stngrndstngrnd Member Posts: 2
    My 2004 Grand Am was :sick: . I was :confuse: . Then I was :mad: . I installed the toggle switch on the yellow wire ;) and, it works like a charm. The security light turns on and off with the flip of the switch. I can't thank you enough for letting us know about this solution. Anyone who has contacted GM knows that they are utterly and completely useless. I can't believe I almost paid that piece of crap company more money. Oh, by the way I'm in for the class action if anyone gets one going, for this problem or the amazing shrinking dash. Thanks again.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    It's gonna be pretty hard to collect any lawsuit judgement from a company that don't exist anymore.
  • brob01brob01 Member Posts: 1
    I just changed my heater blower, and also replaced the EGR valve on my 2001 Grand Am GT. When I tried to start my car it started, then shut off right away, and repeated and it won't stay on. I also noticed my radio, dome lights, and locks where all not working, but my headlights, windows are. Any idea what could have caused this? I tried doing the pass lock trick but still nothing!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If there's no security light flashing then it's probably not passlock. Some of your symptoms sound like ignition switch, some sound like fuel delivery.
  • hwyjnke812hwyjnke812 Member Posts: 2
    My BABY my 2003 PONTIAC GRAND AM which I am absolutely in love with and have had since the day it came off the line has had passlock problems for 4 years now. It is the ONLY problem I have had with it since it's 'birth'. The first time it happened I thought it was a battery problem so I changed the battery...nope didnt work. Then while sitting in her I started reading the book and found the passlock and tried it. Worked like a charm of course. Well didn't have any more problems til last fall. Did the same thing. I knew how to deal with it that time. Lately the security light has been coming on and staying on while driving. If i would stop and turn the car off the light would go off. Then last week the light came on and didnt go off no matter what i did. Well today it locked up on me twice. Then after coming home after the second lock up I turned the car off, started it up turned it off and it started right up...did this four times with no trouble and the light is not on at all. HELP ME SOMEONE!!!! I AM IRRITATED!!!! MY BABY NEEDS MINOR SURGERY. I have had the key changed. My dealer wants major bucks for an ignition switch I know she doesnt need. I may be female but I am not stupid!!!! The car does not have a keyless remote. So will the PLJX bypass kit work or should I....cut the yellow wire? I would appreciate some help. :cry:
  • tshawntshawn Member Posts: 3
    It was very simple to do and solved my problem immediately. I don't mind driving with the red "theft sys" light staying on...beats wearing out starters and batteries and spending any more money...follow the directions carefully and you'll be fine! :shades: ">
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    Of course he wants major bucks for the operation (he'd never show you the $10 fix). Ask yourself this: What are the chances (given what else is available to thieves) of anyone stealing a 2003 Grand Am in your area? Mine is a '97, and I live in a town full of millionaires driving Caddies and Mercedes Benzes (answer: 0). Since this is the one junk system in the entire car, I resolved a long time ago to scrap the damn thing. Find my previous posts re cutting the wire and installing the switch. It costs you $3 and half an hour of your time, and since I did it, I've never had a starting problem. Yes, I have to drive around with the red light on -- BIG DEAL! The car still gets 35 mpg, better than most new ones.
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    I cut my wire and installed the toggle a year ago . Not one problem since .
    (2002 Grand Am) My light stays on too but not visible when covered with a piece of black electrical tape .: )
  • notamechanic5notamechanic5 Member Posts: 1
    I had the identical problem with my 01 grand am. The security-no start problem was occurring more and more often. I never knew when my car would not start.
    I had to put the key in and wait for 10 minutes before car would start. I tried using a new key that I had made several years ago. It solved the problem. I am so happy now. Four months and no problem. Cheap way to fix. Get a key cut to code or try spare key that has not been used alot.
  • hwyjnke812hwyjnke812 Member Posts: 2
    Ha ha ha ha!!!! I did that!!!! I am using an old spare key...the spare one that came with her and has been used very few times. Right now no trouble. I don't have the remote keyless entry. I have the old fashioned use a key to open the door and start the ignition kinda car...LOVE IT!!! (that wasn't sarcasam) But I am completely convinced that isn't the problem since getting home the other day after 2 lock ups and starting the car four times in a row in my drive way with the old key worked. ITS THE DAMN PASSLOCK AND IT NEEDS DESTROYED!!!!! So, after talking to and reading ALLLLLL these posts I do believe I am going to KILL MY PASSLOCK! :P Besides, people in this town know better than to mess with this car. ;) I live in a very small town and they know me and know the car and wouldn't DARE GO THERE!!!!! I am gonna keep checking in here...anyone with anymore ideas...FEEL FREE TO LET ME KNOW!!!!! THANKS GUYS! ;)
  • tteattea Member Posts: 1
    the car wont start did the 10min thing it started did have any trouble with for awhile till last week it didn't start had no dash lights try the 10min thing didn't work i check the ignition fuses under the hood all was OK try to start car it started till that night was driving home the car just quite running did every thing from above again and got nothing what do you think it could be please help thank you somebody said it was the ignition switch could it be
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    and the winner for the longest sentence is !!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    And the prize for that is a trip to my website where you will find instructions on how to fix your problem once and for all if you read the entire article that I put together just for people who need a little help with their Grand Am Security System on vehicles produced in 2002 and a few others produced in other years and also some oldsmobile aleros and chevrolet models which also use the passlock system but not all grand ams and non of the gm cars produced before 1985.
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    LOL
  • tooly37tooly37 Member Posts: 1
    This is a response to an old post.

    I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am V6 4 door.

    Over a year ago I was having passlock issues where I couldn't start the car at all.
    I even installed the bypass switch for the passlock and that solved my passlock issue.

    But this year I started having other issues, they were,
    The gauges (cluster) wasn't turning on until a long time into starting the car.
    windows wouldn't roll down
    air wouldn't turn on.

    I used just answers.com and asked a technition questions and he said try to replace the "Ignition Switch"

    I bought an ignition switch from a local store for $99.00 and if that didn't work I was going to return it.

    Once I replaced the ignition switch, I had to deactivate the bypass switch I put in a year ago. ( If you don't have a bypass switch, then your ok)

    Next I had to reprogram the key by turning it to the on position (not starting the car) for 10 minutes

    After 10 minutes I turned the car off for 5 seconds and repeated the step 2 more times. (On 10 Min off 5 sec, On 10 Min off 5sec)

    Then I started the car still with the bypass switch disengaged.

    And the car started great with no issues. The passlock security light went off and everything worked well and still does.

    I hope this helps for everyone.

    If you really have a passlock issue then this wont help, but I would give this a try first if you are handy with installing things.
  • miatiimiatii Member Posts: 2
    My daughters Grandam, at 115,000 Kilometers has started to show signs of this issue. She hasn't had to go through the 10 minute procedure...yet. Our mechanic is certified GM with 25 years experience. He now has his own shop and drives the Alero version of this car so he seems to know the issues and the ways to get around them quite well. Rather than replace the ignition cylinder, which according to him became a habit by dealers for cars under warranty because it was relatively easy and quick for the shop to do (but not necessarily the solution) his suggestion is to purchase the bypass module commonly used by vendors that sell and install remote starters. According to him this is a simple and very reliable method to bypass the Passlock System. Up to this point he has been a very knowledgeable and reliable mechanic so I'll take his word for it. He explained how the Passlock works in great and painful detail, so I think he knows what he's talking about. If my daughter begins to experience issues I'll definitely let him bypass the Passlock.
  • bneuhartbneuhart Member Posts: 1
    My wife and I just purchased a 2003 Chevy Tahoe. It is very nice with on 60K miles. Yesterday (the day after I purchased it from a private seller) I went to start it using the remote start (Valet, I believe) it attempted to start then shut off, the remote start attempted several times. I then got in a tried the key and the same thing. I noticed the security light blinking. I went in the house and looked online and found this site. I went back out, did the 10 min. trick and it worked. Now I am worried this is going to happen more often. Do to the fact I have a remote starter doesn't that mean the Passlock is already bypassed? Does this mean I have a bad ignition key lock? How does the BCM affect all of this? What is my next move. This car is for my wife and we have a 17mo. old little girl, we are in MI and I do not want them stranded.
    Please can anyone give me some insight on what I need to do to fix this. She is not crazy about the fix with the light being on (but like I said isn't that already bypassed for the remote start?). Also my keys do not have a + symbol on them, does that mean I have Passlock 1 or 2.
    Thanks
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    To successfully bypass the security system on your particular vehicle, you will need a wiring diagram of your truck, including the circuitry of the passlock system. You will also need all the wiring information regarding the remote start system, which was installed by an aftermarket dealer. I have a tendency to suspect that the remote start system is the culprit in your case. If you look through all the forums, you will not find many instances of Chevy Tahoe trucks which experience the passlock problem, and since yours is such a low mileage truck, I would expect that it is still under warranty.

    If, after removing the remote starter and putting the system back to the original wiring, you still have the passlock problem, I would suggest you do the resistor mod described on my website. For your truck, you will definitely need a shop manual, since my website does not describe where to place the resistor for your vehicle.

    If you want to save money on repairs, you will need the shop manual anyway, and $27.00 is not that much to spend for a year's subscription to the online version of the manual.
  • dedlinededline Member Posts: 3
    hello all, i do believe we have a passlock problem since our car when it doesn't start has the security light on, so I'm going to try the 10 min reset when it happens again... but my question....

    twice in the past month, the car has died while on the highway. needless to say this has been extremely dangerous, losing power steering and all, two tows later, the car restarted hours later. i read in one of the many posts the security light should stay on if passlock fails while the car is running, but the car should not shut off.
    is this a problem that could be caused by passlock? if not what?
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    You are correct: Passlock is not supposed to fail while the car is running. That is the secret behind bridging the system -- with the car running, one cuts the wire and installs the toggle.

    You probably need to report this problem to a dealership and, if there is no satisfaction there for a reasonable price or for free as a recall, contact the NTSB. Losing all power while you're on an interstate definitely is a safety problem.
  • kelbb2kelbb2 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I have been reading many posts about bypassing the passlock system on my 2003 grandam. About 2 years ago it started not wanting to start, where it made no attempt to start, no starter turning over or clicks, just nothing when you turn the key. I figured out it was the security and could leave the key on for 10 minutes and it would start up fine. This would work for a while then do it again. I finally got tired of it and read a post on bypassing (http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm), so I did that with the transistor, following it step by step. It seemed all fixed up, the only issue I have had is that the security light stays on constantly now, but I have just been dealing with it. Well all has been great for about a year now, but all of a sudden it is doing it again. I'm a little confused on how it can do this with the system being bypassed.

    It happened about a month ago, I let it sit for 10 minutes with the key on and it started. I assume the BCM and transistor somehow got out of sync on the electrical pulse??? But since it started up after waiting, I didn't think too much into it, hoped it was just a fluke. Well it happened again today and now it will not reset. I left it for 10 minutes twice and the third time I let it sit for 15 minutes, and nothing. Do you think the transistor could have gone bad? I am thinking about changing it, but the car is in a hotel parking lot 40 miles from my house, so trying to figure out what to do. I would really like to bypass that passlock system altogether if possible but don't know how or if that is even an option with all the electronics. I appreciate any help you can provide.

    One other slight detail is that there has always been some electrical 'gremlin' in my car (I bought it new in 03) and something I have been able to recreate is after I shut the car off and the fan speed is on high, I turn down the speed to 1 or off and all the dash lights will blink. I try to not touch the fan speed after shutting the car off, but both of these occurrences have been around a time where I accidentally changes the fan speed.
    Thanks!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    There is no transistor in the bypass circuitry on my website at http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
    I assume you are referring to the RESISTOR mentioned there, rather than a transistor.
    If you did the modification correctly, you would have bypassed the security system. If your Security light is on solid, then something is wrong with your modification... probably the resistor is not connected to one of the two wires, or to the wrong wire. It is also possible that your wiring is not exactly the same as that shown on the website. The only way to know for sure is to get a service manual and check to make sure you are connected to the correct wires. You can subscribe to an online service manual at:
    ALLDATADIY
    If you have trouble identifying the correct wires after you have your manual, post back again, or send me an E-mail at:
    richard@bergerweb.net
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    In addition to what Richard pointed out, it does not sound like your problem initially was PassLock. The PassLock system never stopped my car from turning over; it simply cut the fuel at the injector as soon as the engine rolled. If you are not getting even a starter click, my guess is there is at least one additional issue.

    It also sounds like "piling on." Richard's resistor bridge makes the light go out; cutting the wire and installing the toggle makes the light stay on solid. It sounds like you tried to install the wrong component and, in effect, cut the wire (no toggle). This is adding an issue.

    If the starter does not even click, that sounds like perhaps a bad battery or corrosion at one of the battery posts, cutting off the juice. In this case, recall there is a reason for the toggle: When the battery goes bad or electricity is cut off, PassLock can rearm, which means you have to get the car started again before "recutting" the wire by turning off the toggle. Since you have to turn something on again before you can turn it off, that's why it's there! Otherwise, the wire would be cut with the car off and PassLock engaged, which prevents you from starting it at all.

    Try this first: Take some steel wool plus pliers, screwdriver, wrench, whatever you need to pop the battery post, polish everything good and clean, and reassemble. If you still get no click from the starter, your battery (or the starter) may be dead. So, don't forget the jumper cables, and see if someone else can jump you. If PassLock has re-engaged, this won't work, but at least the engine should turn over. That tells you the problem is the battery, not the starter. Assuming that's true, get a good battery from Sears and install. Try the 10-minute fix to see if you can get the car to start. If it starts, drive it home and don't drive it again until you get the problem fixed, either with the cut-and-toggle or resistor bridge. :shades:

    If it doesn't start, you may have to have the vehicle towed to a place which can fix it, and that will cost. But, before you put a lot of cash on the table, first make sure you did the ten-minute reset with the PassLock data wire connected. Because, like I said, if PassLock has rearmed and the wire is cut, there is no way to bypass it until the data wire is whole again. :lemon:
  • kelbb2kelbb2 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the quick response, much appreciated.
    You are correct, it is the resistor that I installed. I was reading many posts and there seemed to be two methods, one using the resistor to bypass the passlock system, or to install the toggle switch, and I chose the resistor since it seemed to be the most non-visable method to fix this problem.
    I did this about a year ago, and could have messed it up, but I did follow your instructions step by step, which are excellent by the way, and I have been problem free till about a month ago. I did have the one symptom of the security light on solid, and ran through your suggestions if that occurs, but couldn't get it to go away. I guess with that light staying, there must be something incorrect. Your pictures and my car's BCM wiring were identical by looking at them, no extra wires or differing colors.
    To give a little more background, when this first occurred, I was driving down the highway and the car just died, sort of like running out of gas, but I had a full tank. I was not aware of any security issues at the time, had the car towed to a mechanic, and they replaced the fuel pump. Almost $600 later, the car was running and I thought all was well. Then about two weeks later the car wouldn't start, no turning over at all. I thought the battery was dead, tried jumping it and nothing, so purchased a new battery and must have accidentially left the car on for 10 minutes, resetting the security and didn't know it. Then this happened again a week or so later, so I called the dealership and read in the book, learning about the security issue. Then just got used to resetting it all the time, till I read the fixes and tried yours. I really don't know if I needed to change the fuel pump or not now after learning about these passlock issues. What is interesting is that my issues have always been the same, where I have full power (gages, windows, fan, lights, etc) and nothing happens when you turn the key to start position. I read many others where the engine will turn over but will not start since the passlock system doesn't let fuel to the injectors.
    Sorry for the book :)
    I think I'm going to re-run your proceedure with a new resistor, along with checking the service manual. Also going to try the 2nd key, sometimes one key would not have as many problems as the other. I will also check fuses, I was rushed this morning.
    I saw another post after yours, but I really don't think it is a battery or starter issue, not 100% sure, but I have been dealing with this problem for two years, and it seems to be the same thing, especially since this occurred a month ago and sitting for 10 minutes fixed it then. Do you think an unexpected electrical signal could fry the resistor?
    Please let me know if you have any other suggestions.
    Thanks again. Eric
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I'm beginning to suspect that you have a problem in your ignition switch, or in your wiring. If you can turn the ignition switch to the run position and your radio and dash lights work fine, but you don't even get a click when turning the key to the "start" position, I would think that either the ignition switch is not passing voltage to the starter circuit, or the wiring between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid has become compromised.

    If you do happen to check for wiring differences using a manual, I hope you will copy the page in the manual with the wiring diagram and post it here to help those who have your model vehicle.
  • monet1monet1 Member Posts: 1
    After reading all the other postings, i am having similar problems I purchased a used 2003 pontiac grand am which up until 3 months ago have not given me any problems. One day it didn't start until after 2 to 3 tries, when that started I took it back to precision tune for coil change and make sure it wasn't time for a tune up. At that time I got a Diagnostic completed and no codes showed up. Once I was trying to leave it wouldnt crank. so they ran another test nd then codes showed up. which were park lamp control circuit malfunction, horn relay coil circuit low, security system sensor data circuit high, loss of serial comm for class 2 and loss comm/w restraints control and they suspected Ignition switch. and also showed evidence of needing a fuel filter. and they recommended a dealer to complete everything. Well took it to the dealer and once again completed another diagnostic and they found completely different codes. It states that BCM has theft codes stored,needs pass lock sensor. there price was to high and they recommended local auto electrician. and I must say he is unbelievable with his work but after trying to fix everything including crank shaft was replace, wouldnt start after 2 days. ignition switch replace still would start, come kind of coil replace still wouldnt start now he has given up and still having the same problems what can I do. I also replace fuel filter, coil on boot autlt
  • dedlinededline Member Posts: 3
    here's my latest. the problem is the car is stalling out while running. the last time the car stalled i knew about the passlock feature from here and i checked some things. first, car would crank but not start. when the car wouldnt start, the oil light, security light and battery light stayed on. tried waiting the 10 minutes to rest the passlock, but no difference. 4 hours later went back to the car and it started and we dropped it at the mechanic. second, dealership confirmed passlock will never cut the power if it fails during running because it's too dangerous to lose power steering and power brakes, etc if the engine were to shut off while driving
    So, after it sat thru the weekend, mechanic couldn't get the car to fail to start for couple of days. finally one day it wouldn't start and he found there was no spark. he found out the ignition fuse under the hood was good but it wasn't getting any juice at the time, when before it had juice when the car started no problem. he thinks there must be a problem somewhere along the path so he jumped it with a temporary wire. he's got a wire going from the blower fuse to the ignition pack somewhere. he picked the blower since it's only got juice when the key is in the on position. he did that last thursday and since then the car has started on the 1st time everytime. ill start taking it on longer and longer trips until we're confident that solved the problem, then he'll make a nicer wire job and we'll just keep it that way. we're going to trade the car in towards something better in the next few months and the dealer can clean it up.
    My mechanic also found some highlighted lines in the fuse panel map under the hood so looks like the car has had electrical work in the past. He has a theory that perhaps somewhere in the wiring or harness the ignition line is frayed or corroded and perhaps when the wire heats up it can't carry the juice necessary to keep ignition going. then the car stops, won't restart, until the wire cools down and can carry current again. just a theory.
    if you like i can post a pic of the temporary wire he's got, not sure where he spliced into the ignition by the coilpacks. but ask your mechanic to check the ignition fuse juice both when the car starts and not.
    hope this helps, much luck with your problem, hopefully this holds on our car.
  • pontiacownerpontiacowner Member Posts: 1
    passlock problems go to start the car and it wont start the have to turn to on and wait 10-15mins or more till security light goes out to start the car. I have already had to tow it once because of this problem and now its back in the shop again for the same problem it is a 2001 grand am. Research this online and find that there are alot of others out there with the same problem. We should get together and file a lawsuit. since GM/Pontiac is aware of this and has not taken the steps to correct the problem is definitely not a maintenance issues it clear that this is a manufacturing issue.
  • stngrndstngrnd Member Posts: 2
    Post #21 in this forum has the solution to the passlock system. I installed the toggle switch and have not had a problem since.
  • ja33ja33 Member Posts: 23
    I guess it is time to repeat my simple solution to the Alero or Grand Am owners' passlok problem as described in my post # 695 dated Oct 13, 2009. And now after 16 months I have not had a single starting problem. Those owners, who admitted having tried it, were successful. Other experienced Grand AM owners tried to explain it. Believe me, this solution is not rocket science, OR maybe I'm just lucky. And I QUOTE .............
    At 36,000 miles my 2001 Olds Alero started having passlock starting problems. At first it was every other month and then after 2 years it happened with every other turn of the key. Since I am not the least bit mechanically inclined, I tried any and all procedures suggested on the internet except cutting wires, or installing a new switch. Eight months ago I decided to clean the grooves on my ignition key with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP. I did it again for the next 3 days to gain little confidence in the procedure. THE ALERO CONTINUES TO START EVERY TIME
    Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"
    UNQUOTE

    If this procedure works for you, or any other Grand Am owner I would appreciate hearing your results-good or bad. Don't use any fancy ignition key lubrication from an auto parts store. Just a little dab of plain, old 3 in 1 oil ...........Ja
  • spoiled1980spoiled1980 Member Posts: 3
    hi everyone i have a 99 grandam my car wont stay running it starts up with your foot held on the gas peddle to the floor but immediately stalls we have changed the coil packs, put a new fuel filter in because that was totally plugged and put a new crank shaft sensor in and the catallic convertor was plugged and the fuel injector weren't firing and still aren't there is fuel going to the injector but there not spraying can anyone please help me i'm in need of getting my car running please
  • spoiled1980spoiled1980 Member Posts: 3
    where is this yellow wire located at ?
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    The yellow wire has nothing to do with stalling .
    This doesn't sound like a passlock issue at all .
  • spoiled1980spoiled1980 Member Posts: 3
    the car wont start up only with ur foot on the gas and then when it does it immedietly quits and my fuel injectors dont have a pulse any suggestions
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    Sorry Spoiled , this is a Passlock forum . You might have better look searching some of the other Grand Am Forums . good Luck
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    We can't decipher what is wrong with your car unless you punctuate your message, thus dividing it into logical sentences. Please use periods, and capital letters to designate the ending and beginning of each sentence. Your message, as written, makes absolutely no sense.
  • ryan1887ryan1887 Member Posts: 3
    My girlfriend has a 97 grand am, n-body cause apparently that makes a difference in the procedure. I bought a new ignition cause the key kept getting stuck in it. I got an A tech from the ford dealership where I work and he installed it within 5-10 minutes. The directions said to put key in and turn on for 10 minutes... then put the second key in and do the same then start it after the 10 minutes for the second key. This worked great... then the tech unplugged the wire thinking it would be easier to put the covers to the steering column back in, but that reset the key or something I guess. So no big deal right just "learn" it again. Nope same exact procedure did not work again. I have tried half a dozen "learn" procedures and to no avail. Even tried leaving the battery unhooked over night in hopes to reset it. Then tried the original procedure. What should I try now and why would it work fine the first time and not the second time?
  • tshawntshawn Member Posts: 3
    That wire cannot be unplugged/cut while the car is not running. You'll have to reconnect it, relearn, crank the car and then cut/disconnect the yellow wire. I haven't had a problem since.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The most common cause of power loss while driving is a clogged fuel filter. This doesn't happen as often in the states as in other countries, where there is less control of contaminants in the fuel, but it does happen to just about every type of car. If you are experiencing shutdowns while driving, look for something other than Passlock. Search the forums for your specific problem.
    By the way, the dealer is not responsible for keeping your engine in top running shape, nor is the car company. You must maintain your own vehicle. If you don't (among other things) change the oil, keep coolant in the system, clean and replace air and fuel filters, maintain the electrical system, ....... your engine will quit running, and there is no way to predict when it will happen.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The correct procedure for replacing an ignition switch in your vehicle is described in detail in the service manual. I have said this many times in this forum, but it's worth repeating here. If you do your own repairs, you must have a service manual for your vehicle.
  • ryan1887ryan1887 Member Posts: 3
    Well I figured this out thanks to some friends of friends at a pontiac dealer. As I stated I tried the same procedure over and it did not work, the reason being unhooking the battery does not reset anything it only makes it go into "sleep" mode. To reset the security system you must unhook both the negative and posative battery terminals and touch them together for a few seconds. Did that and put the first key in for 10 minutes and then the second key for 10 also and immediatlly start when the second key is done. Started up and worked great... for a bit. Now I have a new problem.
  • ryan1887ryan1887 Member Posts: 3
    edited April 2010
    Now that the keys are "learned" for 2 days it worked great. No more stuck key in the ignition and no more trying to learn the key. Now with a new interrupter it decides to sometimes not reconize the keys. As many said earlier in this forum it sometimes takes 15 minutes of sitting there and then it will suddenly work, but sometimes it takes hours. My girlfriend was late to work this morning as I had to drive her cause grand ams are crap. This is a stupid problem and I am curious has anyone found a way to just deactivate the theft system all together that WILL NOT cause problems later from cut wires and such, I heard cutting a yellow wire to the cpu could cause problems later. If I find an answer from the people I know at the lindsey pontiac dealership I will post it in here to hopefully help anyone.
  • idriveagrandamidriveagrandam Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    First of all I'd like to thank you for putting up such an informative website, http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm.

    About a week or so ago I noticed the security light come on the dashboard and stay on. I kept on driving the car as usual thinking nothing of it because it always started and would run fine.

    Then a couple days ago I went out to start it and it died after a few seconds. I tried to start it again but it would just continually turn over and not fire.

    I then realized that the security light was flashing instead of remaining in a solid on state.

    This is when I found your posts, through google, and realized that I was having a passlock security issue.

    I went back to my 2003 Grand Am and turned the key to the on position and then got out of the car and went inside. After about 15 to 20 minutes I went back outside and noticed the security light had gone off.

    I then turned the key back to the off position then proceeded to turn the car to the crank position, it immediately started up fine and remained running correctly.

    However, the security light was now on and would not go out.

    I then drove the car to the electronics store to pickup a 2.2K Ohm resistor and some shrink tube.

    I then followed the directions on: http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm exactly as described.

    I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery.

    I cut the yellow wire A6 and soldered one end of the 2.2K ohm resistor to the end of the yellow wire that was coming from plastic connector piece. I then took the other end of yellow A6, was going back into the glove box somewhere, and taped it to itself with some black electrical tape.

    I then removed a piece of insulation from the black wire B6, without cutting the copperwire, and soldered on the other end of the 2.2K Ohm resistor.

    I then taped up the 2 connections and plugged it back into the middle slot on the BCM.

    I reconnected the negative terminal to the battery.

    I then put the key into the ignition and turned it to the on position, the security light was still solidly on. I then left the vehicle and came back after about 20 minutes and found that the security light was still on.

    I decided to attempt to start the vehicle, it turned over and fired up very easily.

    However, ever since then and even today the security light is still in a solid on state.

    I tried disconnecting both leads and holding the positive lead to the negative lead for over a minute, to see if it would reset the BCM but it did not.

    I am still driving around with the security light in a solid on state.

    The car is working perfectly alright at the moment except the fact that the security light is still on even after the resistor bridge. I thought that after bypassing the passlock system the security light would turn off?

    Like I mentioned above it is a 2003 grand am and not a 2002.

    Your solution makes sense by installing a resistor after the hall effect switch but before the BCM it's just that I am unable to determine why the light is still on. I would like to have as problem free driving as possible and I'm not sure if I actually accomplished anything because the light is still on and the car works fine.

    Any light you can shed on this subject would be greatly appreciated, in fact I would be willing to go out and purchase the service manual for my car from alldatadiy.com, as suggested in your article if you think it might help out.

    Thank you thus far for the information you have provided on this often costly and bothersome issue that Grand Ams possess, that have nothing to do with the cars core function.
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