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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • ja33ja33 Member Posts: 23
    Ryan 1887......see my post #804. It is not very scientific, does not require cutting wires or anything but a little 3 in one oil on the ignition key. The bottom line is it worked on my Alero passlok problem and still does after 18 plus months.........Ja
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    idriveagrandam,
    One of two things has happened.
    1. There is something wrong with your BCM, in which case, the mod will not work, because the BCM is not re-calibrating itself to the new resistance.
    2. Your resistor is not properly connected between pin A6 and B6 of the center connector of the BCM. Remove the connector from the BCM, and measure between pin A6 and B6 of the connector with an Ohmmeter. It should read approximately 2.2K. If not, check to see if your resistor is broken, or has a bad connection on one end.
    The key element here is this. If the BCM cannot read the 2.2k resistor, then either the resistor isn't connected to the correct two wires, or the BCM is defective. But when the "Security" light is on solid, that is an indication that something is wrong with the ignition switch security system.

    There is a third possibility. The circuitry of the 2003 may not be exactly the same as my 2002. The only way to know this is to Get a service manual for your vehicle.. The price for a one year subscription through Alldatadiy is less than $30.00, which is a bargain, compared to the GM service manual, which is around $140.00.

    I learned about AlldataDIY from my local mechanic, who uses them exclusively for every vehicle. Of course, his subscription covers all vehicles, and costs a mint, but still far less than buying paper manuals from the dealers.
  • idriveagrandamidriveagrandam Member Posts: 2
    thank you i will check the resistance on the weekend and post a response then
  • grandamwoesgrandamwoes Member Posts: 2
    I have been reading for the past two days on this and have learned a lot but need some direct advice. The key in my 2001 Pontiac Grand Am won't turn from the off position. The lead up to this is as follows. I started the car and began to back up and the car moved about 2 feet tops and just died on me. Not thinking I tried to start the car while it was still in reverse to no prevail obviously. I go to put it in park and the shifter won't budge and my key won't come out either but I can turn the key back and forth. Being frustrated I begin to jiggle the key and trying to yank it out profusely and even got a blister on my finger once I pulled it out forcefully. Unfortunately when I got it out it wasn't completely in the off position so the lights were still on. I got the key back in and got it to the off postiont but now the ignition is completely locked. After I got the key out, I was able to put the car in park. The other thing to note is that the steering column will not lock.

    Three options I have read. Cylinder Lock replacement that has the PassLock portion on it, Ignition Switch, and/or the solenoid in the shifter (make note, when I press in the automatic shifter button I can feel and hear it clicking in the ignition switch).

    So quick notes:

    1) Key won't turn from Off position.
    2) Steering Column won't lock
    3) Can feel a click in the ignition switch when pressing the shifter button.

    Attempted things:

    This car has the ignition switch on the dash and not the steering so I have not been able to locate any sort of unlocking button as mentioned on other cars. I took out the radio and the harness looks good (no loose wires). I have read about hitting the key with a hammer which I haven't tried, I also haven't tried looking for the fuse in the engine compartment, or unplugging the battery. Before I go an buy any items I wanted to see what you all suggest since I can't return them.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I would say that something mechanical has broken or frozen up in your locking mechanism. Here are a few notes I found about my own 2002 Grand AM SE 5 speed Manual Transmission.
    1. The key cannot be turned to the off position and removed unless the shift lever is in REVERSE. Sometimes I have to push the shift lever very firmly into reverse before I can turn the key far enough to get it out of the ignition switch. Your PARK position is obviously linked into your ignition switch the same as my REVERSE position.
    2. I don't think the steering column is supposed to lock on a Grand Am. I have never had one that did, but of course, I only buy simple stick-shift vehicles, since I don't know how to repair Automatics, and they get horrible mileage.

    If I were you, I would check in the service manual to see what kind of mechanical linkage there is between the shift lever and the ignition switch, and also see if there is some kind of linkage between the steering column and the ignition switch. That is probably where your problem lies.
  • grandamwoesgrandamwoes Member Posts: 2
    edited April 2010
    This has been the largest learning experiene for me and honestly I loved it. There were some very large obsticles to get over and my situation wasn't discussed on a any forum so I would like to share my quest to success.

    The biggest hurdle was that a tumbler broke in the cylinder lock so turning the key too the ON position to accomplish all the tasks in troubleshooting and removing didn't exist. The key was forced out and in turn broke a tumbler, so all that could be done is a key inserted but not turned. So getting the lock cylinder, the Passcode three wire switch out (Can only come out by removing the lock cylinder from the ignition switch for anti-theft reasons), and the biggest problem encountered was learning/figuring out how to get the park/lock cable (sometimes known as the shift interlocking cable) out of the ignition switch if you want to replace the switch.

    So let me explain the park/lock cable because this was the largest learning curve. Now make note, there was nothing wrong with the switch and decided to still use it anyways but more on that later. Since you can't turn the key to the on position, you can't move the shift lever (auto) out of park. I pulled and pulled on that cable that goes into the back of switch till I was black and blue while it was in park. To figure out why I couldn't do it I ended up popping all the clips up and over the barbs that lock in the white and black sections together. Turns out that with the key only able to stay in the off position the ignition switch has an arm that is holding down the park/lock cable. Once I took the two halves apart I could easily get the cable out. Make note, if you do plan to reuse your switch and for some reason you need to do this, in hindsight you don't need to but does make working on it easier, be careful with the white portion of the switch, the arm inside has spring loaded sensors under it that can be exposed and they fall out easy (they won't shoot out though).

    Now to get the lock cylinder out. This is explained all over the web by drilling the switch but it was confusing as to what they meant and why. It took me holding a new cylinder to figure it out. To make my extraction of the thick metal pin from the lock, I got a dremel wheel and shaved away the portion of the sides (look at photo below) so I could grab the pin with needle nose to yank out once I drilled the switch to break/bend the spring (This is what is confusing, the spring is really a flat wide piece of metal that acts as a spring and by bending it you can forcefully pull out the pin).

    The rest was cake, put in the new cylinder, and run through the passcode relearn process. I even put the switch back together and reused it. Cost $159 for the lock cylinder with the new passcode sensor, door lock sensor, and keys. All from Autozone, yes you can find cheaper but was in a jam and cheaper then $650 from the stealership.

    image
    http://tinypic.com/r/10zmooo/5
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited April 2010
    Thanks for posting back and describing your solution. By the way, did you find that your Auto Transmission Grand Am has steering wheel lock, or is it just the gearshift that locks. (or maybe the gearshift locks the steering wheel mechanically, and being in the park position allows the key to be turned to OFF)

    On another note, Did you buy a shop manual for your vehicle? If so, would you mind sharing with us all, the pages that show the wiring for the PASSLOCK circuits?
  • miatiimiatii Member Posts: 2
    My daughter is hardly mechanically inclined. More like all out panic, freak out inclined. So we are going to have her ignition fixed and hopefully save everyone a lot of stress. My mechanic is at this moment replacing the ignition switch. He talked to GM and apparently there has been an update bulletin with regards to the problems surrounding the ignition/Passlock system and an updated ignition switch available . We are assuming that this means a re-design since my mechanic says he has to buy the whole ignition unit and can no longer purchase certain parts to repair it. My mechanic is very trustworthy (So far. My father was a mechanic so I can usually tell when they are BS'ing me, but there is always a first time). But is GM trustworthy or is this just more crap from them? If this doesn't work, it's out to the pasture for this car, lick my financial wounds and go back to buying Japanese no matter how much they cost.
  • gmsucks2gmsucks2 Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 2002 grand am. All winter long it would start no matter how cold, with the auto start, but would only start by the key after a while. Now that it is warmer the car has gotten worse. It will now only start with the remote start and thats the only way to move it. Start in neutral, slip it in gear, etc.
    When i try to start with the key alone, it starts for 1 second then sputters and stalls. But it will start and stay going for the two minute warm up by the remote start. I dont know if the security light was on in the past, but now it doesn't appear to stay on.
    I am willing to cut the yellow wire if this will fix the problem. My wife tried leaving the key on and it did start, one time . The next time it did not work
    Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    If you have an aftermarket remote start installed, you only have a 50/50 chance of the "Cut the Yellow Wire" mod working. I would suggest, since your vehicle is a 2002, you do the resistor mod as described at http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm. This will bypass the security system altogether, and allow you to be Passlock Problem Free when starting by either the key, or the remote.
    Good luck.
    To everyone else..... I can't believe that out of over 800 posters, nobody has offered to share the Passlock Wiring from their manual with us all. What's up? Are you all too cheap to buy a $27.00 Manual?
  • mrpirigyimrpirigyi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Grand Am with the same security problem.. i have to wait for the light to stop flashing before it will start. I went out and bought 3 in 1 oil and lubed up the key yesterday. I started the car probably 6 times since then and i have not yet had a problem. I usually give it a little gas when i start it just to make sure it won't die... i haven't been doing that since i've used the oil.. its been working fine. i'll keep you updated. thank you so much.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    mrpirigyi
    Please take a look at your key and post back to us whether your key has some sort of electrical contacts on the sides. Better yet, take a good photograph of both sides of your key and post it in this forum. It will help us to understand why 3 in 1 oil has an effect on the electrical system of the vehicle.

    Dick Berger
  • scottmcmahon98scottmcmahon98 Member Posts: 1
    theres a hesitation when starting , the engine turns over, and we recharged the battery today and it didnt make it any better, but once it finally starts it stays on. Does anyone have any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Not a security passlock problem. You might try:
    * Replace the spark plugs
    * Replace fuel filter
    * Check for good compression
    If none of those make it better, try posting in another forum dedicated to hard starts. It sounds like what you need is a good tune -up.
    Dickey-B
  • dedlinededline Member Posts: 3
    okay, spent way too much money on our problem but so far 3 weeks and no problems starting. here's the list
    car would not have spark, changed coilpacks, ignition switch, some part behind the ignition behind it (rheostat?) a vo tech kid in the family got underneath at one point and found when he shook the wires leading back to the fuel tank, the car started up. mechanic cleaned the connectors back there, cleaned spark plugs, etc, at one point even had a wire running from the coilpacks i think to an alligator clip by the battery which worked for awhile, but didn't at the last problem. fyi, we never had the passlock problem with the security light, but were trying to find why no spark. last thing we did was mechanic tried to check alot of the wiring and then found a corroded wire or something to the mass air flow sensor. changed the wire and sensor. now the car is starting everytime. just to recap our original problem, the car would stall on its own while driving, and not restart. sometimes the car wouldnt start right at normal times, just sitting overnight or running into a store.. after changing some parts, it stopping doing that but still wouldn't start at some times. so again, car has started everytime for the last 3 weeks. hope thats the end of it. with luck, we'll get the car detailed and get a decent price for it on ebay or craigslist.
    good luck all.
  • mike4ujcmike4ujc Member Posts: 2
    OKAY...i went to church and after...i went to my car to leave and turned the key...and NOTHING! it seemed like it was dead...or not enough power to the car. (The dash board was blank...the radio turned on..but my powered windows arent working.) so i checked my battery...its a good battery...I recently put a new ignition switch cuz i need a whole new key system. but anyways. I NEED HELP!!! ive been without a car for 3 weeks...I HAVE NO MONEY TO GET IT FIXED AT A DEALERSHIP...what do you think it might be?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Mike4ujc,
    Disconnect the battery cables from the battery. Clean the terminals on both the cables and the battery, and then re-connect them. If that doesn't help, then disconnect the cables at the other ends, clean, and re-connect.
    A poor connection often causes this problem. It takes only a couple of amps to run the radio, but over 100 amps to crank the engine, so poor connections are a common cause of the engine not turning over.
  • mike4ujcmike4ujc Member Posts: 2
    hey! this might be years later but I am having the same problem with my pontiac grandam 2004. My car seemed dead..everything else turned on..the radio...but NONE of the windows. What was the problem your car? DId you get it fixed?
  • kelbb2kelbb2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 and sounds like a bad bcm. I had the security light problem where the car wouldn't start, almost like dead battery, but all other accessories worked, and running that bypass procedure with the resistor fixed that. I'm currently having the no windows working at random, ac too in my case, and I have researched it down so far to the bcm is bad, seems like moisture damage. I looked them up online and found one for around $40, I'm going to buy it this week and see if it fixes it. Hope this helps. Eric
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Have you checked the ignition switch? Your symptoms sound more like that to me.
  • kelbb2kelbb2 Member Posts: 4
    Really? I'm not having the car not starting issue anymore since running the bypass procedure. So you think the random A/C and fan, windows, radio, instrument lights, and cruise control not working could be due to the ignition switch? It does mainly occur at start up of car, but sometimes while driving down the road too. When this happens, I still have door locks, turn signals, headlights, and car runs like normal. I appreciate any suggestions. Just from reading, it seemed more like bcm, but that was just a guess on my part and seemed like a cheap fix to try since only $40 and can change out in 10 minutes. Thanks, Eric
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The wiring diagram and the troubleshooting procedure in your shop manual will isolate your cause down to the defective part, whether it's the ignition switch, the window switches, BCM, or even a bad ground wire. These are the type of problems that require hands-on diagnosis. I doubt whether we could tell you with any degree of accuracy what part is defective on your vehicle without going through the diagnostic procedure.
  • abrucabruc Member Posts: 8
    Is it possible that the Passport "problem" is related to or somehow caused by the resetting of the Oil Life? Or perhaps when I had a new spare key cut? That seems to be when my problem started. Thanks. Great sight.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    edited June 2010
    It's a possibility. You could have worn contacts inside the switch and it can be intermittent. I've had it happen to me on a couple of occasions. I remember a Ford Taurus I had that sometimes the a/c, power windows, dash gauges and a few other things wouldn't work at times. If I pulled over and shut it off and restarted it they would be fine. Sometimes you can just wiggle the switch and get them to come and go. If you have a wiring diagram you can narrow it down to what systems are on the same contacts inside the switch. It also helps to keep the weight on your ignition key down by not having to much other stuff hanging on it. The weight can cause abnormal wear to the ignition switch over time.
  • abrucabruc Member Posts: 8
    Is it possible that the Passlock problem is related to or caused by the Oil Life reset procedure? Or when I had a new key cut? That's when my problems seemed to begin. Thanks.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Unless the key has a "+" on the side of it, there is no relationship between the key and the passlock system. The only purpose of the key is to line up the pins in the lock mechanism so that the lock cylinder can be turned. Keys without a "+" stamped on the side of them have no electronics embedded in them, thus they are not part of the passlock system.
    On the other hand, if you have a key that does have a "+" stamped on the side of it, it will allow you to turn the key, but will not start the vehicle unless the electronic pellet within the key matches the code stored in the vehicle. I have this system in my 2007 Cobalt.
    The oil life calculations are handled by the Powertrain Control Module, not the BCM.

    These are items that are covered in the Service Manual. GM doesn't keep these things secret. They publish very comprehensive manuals describing the various systems on their cars. Trouble is, it's hard to find a mechanic who has the knowledge to deserve the $75/hour they charge at the dealership.
    Dick B
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Unless the key has a "+" on the side of it, there is no relationship between the key and the passlock system. The only purpose of the key is to line up the pins in the lock mechanism so that the lock cylinder can be turned. Keys without a "+" stamped on the side of them have no electronics embedded in them, thus they are not part of the passlock system.
    On the other hand, if you have a key that does have a "+" stamped on the side of it, it will allow you to turn the key, but will not start the vehicle unless the electronic pellet within the key matches the code stored in the vehicle. I have this system in my 2007 Cobalt.
    The oil life calculations are handled by the Powertrain Control Module, not the BCM.

    These are items that are covered in the Service Manual. GM doesn't keep these things secret. They publish very comprehensive manuals describing the various systems on their cars. Trouble is, it's hard to find a mechanic who has the knowledge to deserve the $75/hour they charge at the dealership.
    Dick B
  • chefscarchefscar Member Posts: 1
    I am sure it's too late but I am having the same problem and I have sent an email.

    Thanks!
  • lulubell1lulubell1 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for advising to contact them I am also having the same trouble. I go a diagnostic and wasnt sure why I was have trouble.
  • thesoup51thesoup51 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, new here and have a question. Have a 2004 Grand Am, it's been a great car. 160,000 miles and yesterday had first issue with maybe a Passlock problem.

    Left the house, drove about 25 miles and stopped for gas. Got back in the car, all power, lights, radio everything was on but car wouldn't turn over. Tried to jump start, nothing. Pushed the car to a parking spot and went to a computer to start searching. Read about the 10 minute reset, went back to the car and it started after trying this method.

    What does the plus have to do with the key? I'm not sure if I need to take it in or not. The temperature here in Minnesota yesterday was in the high 80's but the dewpoint was in the upper 70's. About as steamy as I've ever seen it here, and I did have the AC running. I read something about moisture but not sure what else to do. I saw some posts from a while back and if anyone could shed some light it would be great.

    As of now it is starting, but I am nervous about it happening again.

    Thanks!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Not enough information here.
    Was the "SECURITY" light flashing when you had filled up the car and were trying to start it?
    Was the "SECURITY" light flashing when you came back to the car? If not, was it on steady?
    Does your key have a "+" stamped on the side of it? This indicates that your key has a resistor or a transponder embedded in it, and the key could be your problem.
    My suggestion would be to go to my website,
    http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
    Read the entire article, print it out, and take it, with your car, to a dealer and ask if they can fix your problem. Any good dealer should be able to tell you what security system you have in your car, and if it is not the same as the 2002 model, they should be able to diagnose what went wrong with your vehicle. I have a feeling that what happened, in your case is not a security issue, but possibly a fouled fuel filter or vapor lock problem.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Good advice from post 848, the only thing I can add is you have the same Passlock as a 2002 model, the key doesn't have anything to do with it. From your post though, if I understand it correctly, it doesn't sound like a Passlock issue. When you said "it wouldn't turn over", I'm assuming that you mean the engine wouldn't spin when you engaged the starter. If that's the case, then it's not Passlock, since Passlock when tripped will cut off the fuel flow but doesn't disable the starter. It could be the first signs of a failing starter, or possibly a faulty ignition switch just to name a couple.
  • thesoup51thesoup51 Member Posts: 2
    Light was solid, not flashing. No light has come on since we got it re-started. There is a plus on one side of the key, with a round circle/dimple on the other side.

    The engine would not spin when the key was turned. Nothing at all, but after the 10 minute reset period it did start. I know we are due to replace the fuel filter, so I might just do that anyway.

    Thanks for the responses, hopefully I gave enough info this time.
  • mike515mike515 Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the ignition key lock and tried to do the 10 minute reset. The security light never went out while it was in the on position. I turned it back to off and pulled the key out thinking I would wait and try it again later. Now, the key won't turn at all! It will insert but won't go to the on position. Since it won't go to on I can't reset the ignition. Now I have the problem of not even being able to remove the part since the pin won't release unless the key is turned to the on position! At this point all I want to do is remove the part and get the car to a service center! Any advice on how to get the key to on? We've unhooked the battery, touched + and - together, etc. and nothing is working!!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The lock cylinder isn't the part that causes the problem. The ignition switch is where the hall effect sensor is located, and is the root cause in most of the passlock problems.
    Don't know why the key won't turn now.
  • originalmrmikeoriginalmrmike Member Posts: 2
    My switch was replaced about 2 years ago and started acting up about 8 months later. When my key won't turn, I flick the ignition opening about 6 times with a bottle opener,(I keep it on the ring because this happens several times a week), to jar the tumblers loose on the inside. My security light hasn't given me any trouble in about 6 months. I didn't do anything to bypass it, Just got lucky I guess. Replacing the switch 2 years ago stopped it for a short time but ultimately didn't cure it. Other than that the only other problem that I've had to adress again and again is the fuel pump. It gets hot and stops pumping until it cools. I've switched suppliers again and again and again and.... I'm on my seventh one that has worked the best so far, a used fuel pump from a s10 blazer that I pulled myself at a salvage yard. Good luck with yours. I'd love mine except for those two never ending problems.
  • jro0bjro0b Member Posts: 1
    This morning i tried to start my 2000 grandam GT and it wont start, it is the first time for me. I Had to o to work so i took another car. I google the problem and found this page, i did saw the security light blink before i get off the car, i didnt knew the 10 minutes solution, or the "cut the yellow wire" , i also read that rainy days are involved in this problem, and it did actually rain a few days ago ( it never rains here) , i hope that by the time i go back form work, the car " magically" fix itself lol, if not , i think im cutting the yellow wire or maybe ill try the toggle switch thing... but first ill try the 10 minutes solution, does this happen frecuently? i mean, after you reset the system whit this last option..it would happen every time i try to start the car? or every 2 months? ..im going to the beach this wknd and i dont wanna get stuck in the middle of the road=/ :confuse:
  • slevoirslevoir Member Posts: 5
    My car would not start but all accessories were on..Had it towed to a local repair shop. They disconnected the security by pass (at no charge) and I have not had any problems since. He told me the dealer would charge about $400.00 to "fix" this problem. Key was very used and would'nt work all of a sudden.
  • fuzznickfuzznick Member Posts: 2
    I had one episode with the passlock and did the 10 minute reset. My ignition was giving me trouble and it was affecting the auto radio shut off and various buzzers and inside lights. I had to shake the key around to get it to work so I could start the car. This went on for several months. One night I started the car drove down the road and it sounded like it had gone into neutral and had no acceleration so I shifted to another gear it started to go and then just died as if it was out of gas. THere was no security light on then or now. I replaced the ignition as that seemed to be the most obvious. The security light came on and was blinking, I did the 10 minute reset and car still cranks but does not turn over. I was hoping to get some input before I start replacing the fuel pump, filter and/or injection system. :sick:
  • rebeccas1rebeccas1 Member Posts: 1
    Ok.. ANY feedback would be GREATLTY appreiciated!

    I have an 05 Pontiac Grandam.. One day I left work it would not start.. Would turn over just would not start.. Googled some things online & got this forum.. Read about the passlock issues & how to turn key on ACC position fo 10 mins. & it would start right up & it did!... Also my security light has NEVER came on!.. It only flashes when I turn the key to acc then goes off after 10 mins. My ? is it has now happened 1 x a week for the past month like clockwork (EVERY TUESDAY).. My mechanic said it would cost at least $800.00... Anyway of a cheaper fix or I'm trading it in!

    Also it has 80,000 miles now.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Read the rest of this thread and you will find a fix that costs 10 cents, plus some soldering. Specifically, read post #599
  • eapeap Member Posts: 1
    I bought this 2001 GrandAM for my daughter a yr.ago. Last week as she was driving home from work the car just quit running. She managed to get it off the road and at midnight she was stranded. I towed the car home and the next day started looking on the computer and found this excellent site.The car would start and run for a few seconds and shut down. It had done this several times before but I mistakenly thought that it was the after mkt. remote start that the previous owner had installed. I had that remote removed by the people who had installed it and thought I was in like Flint.The posts here gave me insite as to what it might be,I took the BCM OUT AND IT WAS COVERED WITH CORROSION.One pin was totally gone another was bent and loose.So I bought a new BCM for $300 and then contacted local Pontiac dealer and was told that I would have to have it towed to their shop so that they could flash the BCM. I WAS TOLD IT WOULD BE LESS THAN 1/2 HR. COST $45. WHEN THE CAR AND I GOT THERE , I WAS TOLD IT WOULD BE AN HR. COST OF$75. I told them go ahead and I would be back in an hr.I came back and the shop manager said that they had to stop work on the car because they needed my permission to clean corrosion out of plug ins. Which I had already done the day before. Now it was going to cost $112. ALSO THEY SAID THEY WOULD HAVE TO PUT THE BCM IN A PLASTIC BAG. This was their fix for a design flaw. A plastic baggie with a few ties on it. The BCM was the problem, the car started and has run fine for 2 days now ,even the radio and power windows are working. I have started a complaint with the Attn. General of State of WV.A plastic baggie come on now! I also called the Pontiac Division of GM. They said that they have never received any complaint concerning the BCM. OR ANY PROBLEMS WITH THE PASS LOCK SYSTEM. THERE IS NO RECALL BECAUSE NO COMPLAINTS HAVE EVER BEEN FILED SO I SAID MAKE A FILE FOR ME BECAUSE I'M FILING A COMPLAINT.She then said that this was not a safety issue. I then went spastic on her. I stated that it might not be a safety issue for GM BUT IT SURE WAS FOR MY 17 YR.OLD DAUGHTER. SO I GOT A FILE # NOW.I want to thank the people who have posted their stories and solutions here on this site. I no doubt would have spent hundreds of $'s more if not for you . Thanks for sharing.
  • crickett28crickett28 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how I can shut my alarm off for my 01 grand am with out the remote. My remote is broken and I opened the door using the key and cannot disengage the alarm. I too have also started having the security light problem that I have seen everyone discussing.
  • grandamfixergrandamfixer Member Posts: 1
    what about re-programming w/ the new keys?? is this necessary, as i am having the same problem with the key switch itself, and if i can't make it run once i change it out w/ the part from autozone, i won't be able to go anywhere to have it done...
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Report that dealer to the better business bureau, and take your car to different dealer... preferrably a Chevy dealer.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    There is no factory installed alarm on your car. To shut it off, you should contact the aftermarket place that installed it.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    When you install a new lock cylinder, all you have to do is the 10 minute reset. There is no programming to do.
  • milwrigmilwrig Member Posts: 3
    I was having problems with the lock cylinder so I replaced it and while I had the radio out I figured- what the hey replace that too. So I put in a new radio- but there was no power (voltage) from where it should have been so I ended up using the cig lighter power for the radio- did the 10 minute deal 3 times and it started right for a few days. after 3-4 days the car would not start right away- key would need to be turned 2-3 times- now it won't start at all-(week later) tried the 3 10-30 minute on- off start mode and even replaced the battery still nothing- security light does not come on just the service engine soon, oil and battery light. Does not turn over just a low hum for about 3-4 seconds. Should I just keep trying to relearn the passcode and then use the toggle switch method or did I mess something else up by disconnecting the radio and not having all those wires reconnected?
  • nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    I bought the 2002 Grand Am GT almost two years ago and have not experienced the passlock problem. I do watch many GA forums and like to get familiar with common problems associated with this vehicle. Can anyone clarify what the passlock problem fix is. Does the ignition switch need to be replaced or the lock cylinder when the problem occurs. Of course I am ruling out a bad connection, faulty BCM, etc.
  • matrixscmatrixsc Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I thought I may as well add to this thread. I have been having problems starting my car intermittently. I was under the hood alot trying to figure out what is going on. The car would start sometimes, and not other times.The security light would come on while driving and go out months previously. Later it would come on and sometimes be on when I got to my destination and occasionally not start. Then the last few months it's been real aggravating at times, like going grocery shopping and get in the car and nothing happens. Turn the key and all the instrument lights would illuminate then go out except the security light and battery. Never read my manual about how to get it started when this happens. Anyway I would be persistant and it would eventually start, at this point I knew there had to be a fix for this I started reading this thread and thought about not wanting to cut wires and replace the bcm, ignition etc. and I had a fairly new key so I knew that wasn't the problem. I thought the only thing I should try before I do anything else was get a can of electrical cleaner (spray) went to Walmart and got it, got in the car and sprayed inside the ignition switch, really blasted it clean! Then put in the key and started it, then drove about a hundred yards when the light went out! Have been driving it now for 2 days without a problem. It was a daily occurance before this. No more security light coming on and no starting problems! I hope this is helpful to some of you! This Has been a nightmare. I hope this may be helpful to some of you that may have a security problem causing you to not be able to start your car when you want to go!
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