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Thanks!
thanks
Thanks you for your help, I replaced the part and the check engine light in out. I also have been traveling for work and have had an increase in the mpg back to the orig level. thanks you
#1. I need to know the free code (Autozone)
#2 if a match I will find a EGR valve being thrown out or pull mine and determine why they go out.
#3 I need a spare PCV or solenoid same story on clean and rebuild.
#4I need to be able to reset my dash light.
Janet
On my way home w/ the car, I felt some slight hesitation after going about half a mile away from the shop and never exceeding 40 mph. On my way to work the next morning, 4/9, the car was still hesitating a tiny little bit. On my lunch break that day, I started to back out of my parking spot when the car started jerking so bad I thought it was going to give me whip lash and then the check engine light started blinking at me. The car wouldn't let me get over 15 mph on my way to the shop before it would start jerking and hopping. The mechanics were trying to tell me that I had gotten bad gas and put a gas treatment in it. I didn't like that explanation because I hadn't put any gas in the vehicle for a week, so I wouldn't leave until they test drove it to make sure the hopping and hesitation had stopped.
As my luck would have it, the car ran fine for the mechanic. I jumped in the car to go back to work when I didn't even get to the end of the shop before it started jerking and hopping and then the check engine light came back on and was blinking at me. The mechanic at the shop hooked it up to the computer and got the code for a misfire in # 5 and #6. He put a new coil in the # 5 and drove it up and down the road a couple of times(he only had one coil in stock and that one seemed to have fixed it).
I picked the car up that afternoon and only got 5 miles away before the darn thing did the exact same thing. I turned around and went straight back to the shop. The reading on the computer said a misfire in #5 and #6!?!?!?! The mechanic ordered another coil to put in the #6. The #6 was replaced on 4/12.
When I went to pick the car up, it was running so rough and hesitating like crazy. The poor thing sounded like it was going to blow up. There was also a slight smell of raw fuel lingering around. I asked the mechanic to take out all of the spark plugs to make sure they were still okay. He ckecked them and they were fine, so he put them back in. I cranked the car and the rough idling/running was gone!?!?!?! The Jeep was purring like a kitten. It makes no sense!!!
I drove it home and it had a little bit of skipping going on but nothing that I would be concerned about. The next day on my lunch break, I was trying to pull into my parking spot when it hesitated really bad and then the the light came back on (this time not flashing, just in case that matters). I called the mechanic so he could come up and pull the code...misfire #6... I drove the car 35 minutes down the road so Chrysler could take a look at it. The car never stalled, hesitated, jerked, etc... the whole way (I live in the mountains), but the check engine light stayed on. I am waiting on the service guys at the dealership to let me know something...
Anyone got any ideas?
my husband pulled the engine--- to only find a cylinder head with a huge hole- and one of the arms broke along with the pin. (the sputtering in the motor) (sorry if its not tech terms) oil in places it shouldn't have been. find out very quickly the cylinder heads for the liberty are also costly. :sick: i love my jeep-- i have not paid mine off yet- bought it used and has been the strongest thing i have ever had. bought it with 86k and now has 145k and in parts across the shop. makes me sick but have your jeep checked- before it gets to the point mine did.
i know very little about auto parts but am learning very quickly!!! after reading all of these posts its like you all have taken the words out of my mouth! code after code after code--- parts, labor. its nuts!! Jeep/Chry should step up and RECALL!
we opened my motor- cracked cylinder head. its not coils and plugs and it does not need a gas treatment like all the shops tell you. its your motor! there should be recalls on this issue we all are having. they suck the life and money out of you first. i hope rebuilding the engine will work...i really do love my jeep. i will never buy another one though. if not i'm patching the issue and getting rid of it as fast as i can.
i'm lucky! my husband is now doing the labor- but the parts are so expensive- this jeep is 8yrs old- we should not be looking at rebuilt motors that cost $2,350.00 or more. a new motor is about $4,500.00. its a shame, because it's a nice vehicle.
:sick: POOR STRANDED AND PANICKING IN CORPUS CHRISTI TEXAS
Any help & advice is appreciated. Thank you
He reset it and light is now off. My Liberty is 4x4 3.7 liter.
"P1697-EMR (SRI) mileage not stored ? possibly PCM?"
Does anyone know what that means they weren't sure and I was wondering if this is going to cost me a lot?
I have been having issues with the car and a friend told me it was a wheel sensor. Sometimes when I brake the brak makes this weird pushing back feeling and makes a slight grinding noise that comes from the brake peddle. I also have an issue that if I go over a bump in the road the wheels quit moving and it take about 20seconds for then to kick on again no matter how many times I keep flooring the gas peddle.
Is that all separate from the code? HELPPPPP
1.) take your jeep to a local mechanic shop, dealers are ripoffs. Have mechanic replace the crank speed sensor located on the right side of the engine block. Hard to see unless its up on the lift. It's threaded into engine block with a 12 volt wire lead that goes back to the onboard computer. This sensor costs about 20 to 25 dollars at a parts store.
2.)Also have mechanic spray a can of carb cleaner into throttle body intake while engine is running. This will burn out most carbon deposits in throttle bottle and top of cylinder heads. Engine will stall out several times while doing this. Then have him pull the spark plugs if they look carboned up and nasty then replace them at about $4 each, will be cheaper at a place like Autozone. Also it wouldn't hurt to add a bottle of stp gas and carb treatment to the gas tank. Average cost for this job including labor should run about $125- $150.
Good Luck. Hope this works for you. It did for us.
Is it still running?
I have same issue #2 piston. It is sitting on my drive way to either fix or junk.
please help.
1. Do you "blow the egr valves nose" on a regular basis, in other words do you with a fully warmed up engine and from s dead stop and with overdrive locked out, stomp on the gas and blow out all of the accumulated carbon from the engine?
2. Do you do lots of city (stop and go) driving or mostly highway driving?
3. Are you still using the Mobil 1 0W-40 garbage oil?
4. Do you clean the boost sensor at the back of the intake manifold on a regular basis?
5. Do you use any fuel additives or cetane improvers?
Thank you
I don't know much about cars
First of all your driving habit, mostly city, is contributing to the problems you are having. City driving is the worst thing you can for any engine. Not letting the engine get fully warmed up is bad news too as you will have issues from moisture accumulation as well as carbon buildup in combustion chambers and elsewhere.
You need to get your Jeep out on the open road and run it fairly hard for a couple of hours to drive out accumulated moisture and to start getting rid of the carbon buildup.
Looks like you have a mess on your hands. Try someone other than the dealer. A second or third opinion does not hurt. Good Luck!