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Yes, I had the exact same problem at about 30,000 miles on my 2005 CRD. I took it in, they diagnosed it as the right rear caliper having seized, and replaced the rotor, caliper, pads, and brake line under warranty. They said they had only ever seen one like that before, but reading here I wonder if it's a Liberty problem. As a rear brake the safety issue is relatively small, but you definitely want it fixed.
I am fairly sensitive to hot brake smell, and as far as I can tell this problem developed from nothing in the course of one week or less of routine commuting.
(I realize this post is more than a year after the question was asked, but hopefully it will be useful to others.)
Emp2
Emp2
I had this problem with 98 chevy SUV. Put new pads on rear (drums) and kept them tight. Worked good after that.
Emp2
Emp2
I really liked the hard brake pedal on my old '95 GC. I don't like the idea if a mushy pedal where it's difficult to tell if brakes are working normally or failing. My personal opinion is that it should be unambiguous.
Am hoping somebody has a "do it yourself" kinda thing.
It has to sit out in the weather. Was thinking of sitting a heater by the tires, hoping this might work?!
Ok the problem is, when go to stop, the brakes sound like there stuck/frozen, makes a noise & sounds like a sick cow. I tap them thinking that will help, but doesn't always work. Few days ago, it did this in town, I was going super slow, on a slick street, brakes didnt work..so was either hit the guy in front of me or aim for the giant snowbank, I kinda freaked and let go of steering wheel & thats where I ended up, about 1/2 way up on a snowbank. Only damage it did was break the front bumper in couple spots, no other damage.
Any sugguestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
The Jeep Dealer & tire shop will clean it out for me for under $50.
I don’t understand, clean what out? You have 4-wheel disk brakes. The pistons that work the pads are pretty much sealed – but not invulnerable. You have small rear drums for the parking brake and that’s it. Are they just going to pull the Jeep inside until all the ice and snow melts off? Are you saying that your brakes did not work at all or your antilock brakes did not work and the wheels just locked up? (just FYI questions you need to answer for yourself) Antilock brakes on the Liberty make a vibrating, grating sound that could be heard as groaning. Antilock brakes can only do so much on glare ice.
“Not invulnerable” means that something like jagged ice could possibly but unlikely damage a piston seal and cause corrosion in a brake piston leading to piston seize, but the other brakes would still work and the vehicle would pull to one direction.
There has been a lot written on this forum about the rear brakes on the Liberty groaning and clunking. If I wash my Liberty in warm dry weather and run it into the garage without driving it, the next time I back out the rear brakes might groan/moan and clunk until the first application of the brakes. Sometimes in cool humid weather the same thing might happen the next time I drive out, although this hasn’t happened for a while. For some owners the problem was enough for their dealer to replace the rear pads and that seemed to cure the problem. I just ignore it because it never seems to affect stopping and is very temporary.
If your antilock brakes actually did not work you need to get them repaired whether the vehicle is still under warrantee or not. Without access to the vehicle I can only speculate and someone else might speculate in a different direction. Good luck and stay safe.
Been setting a heater by the front wheels hoping to melt some of it off, it has to sit outside. Not fun
I was once stuck because the power steering was not powerful enough to force the wheels to steer. Either the serpentine belt was slipping over the pulley or the overpressure. valve of the steering pump got mad at me.
People put chains up front to widen their tracks and avoid ice forming around the steering tires. Even my new BFG T/A tires get caught in heavy snow. We usually think traction by the rear is important, but what a frustration not to have a steering wheel anymore :sick:
When you drive a normal car you never dive so deep in the snow; you stall by looking at it.
Otherwise look at the surface of the brake shoes: rubbing against the drum should occur in the middle, never at the tip where they are pushed by the receiver cylinder.
Does this sound normal? What would be the harm in just replacing the pads?
Other than the stains on the seats and the brake issue - I've been rather content with my LIberty.
If my problem sounds familiaror there are solutions or explanations, please advise. The thought of spending another $450 is just not cool.
Thanks.
Untorqed lugs will cause uneven pressure on the rotor and when you do either a high speed stop or a lot of stop and go, the rotors heat up a lot and when cooling down it will cool down unevenly causing warping of the rotors.
At least that's been my experience in all the vehicles that I've worked on in the past. I've got the same year and about the same miles on my liberty as you do and I still have the factory brakes and rotors on it.
my issue of the locking up is now starting to happen even when it does not rain - any ideas what this issue is??
1. Is the proportioning valve in good working order?
2. Are the rear brakes adjusted correctly?
3. Are you still running the factory brake fluid and has the system ever been flushed?
thanks!!!! this has been a very frustrating issue for me for the last couple of years and i appreciate your feedback
If the shop uses BG Products, which is good stuff, then go there.
If the rest of the fluids are original, like power steering, it might be worth your while to have that done too.
One other thought about the rear lock up is that you never mentioned if you had antilock brakes. If so, have the sensors checked.
thank you - very much appreciated
One day there fine the next day I'm driving down the road and all 4 brakes slowly start to lock up to the point of not being able to move without pushing the gas pedal half way to th floor
Ive be told it's the proportional valve or master cylinder
Any ideas
Any other ideas?