Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Chevrolet Malibu Maxx Interior and Passenger Comfort Concerns
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
It is possible that the defroster grids could be scratched when cleaning the inside of the back glass.
Just a suggestion to help you find an answer.
I took that to the Chevy dealership and they matched the price ($18 each) and I didn't have to pay for shipping :-)
They are very simple to replace.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f7a7e/187#MSG187
Also the keyfobs can have problems with the battery fingers soldering breaking
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef11558/4818#MSG4818
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f7a7e/183#MSG183
has anyone else had this happen to them? is there some kind of latch or something that I might have to move first? i notice that the rear driver's side is quite a bit wider than the passenger's side, because it also contains the 'middle' part of the rear seat. not sure if that makes a difference or not.
thanks!
thanks!
Indeed, I could not move the rear driver-side seat forward, when I was
doing it from the driver's side. OTOH, I remembered that I had done
it somehow before -- and with a difficulty, too (bought the car last
August).
So, I went around, opened the rear passenger's side door, and easily
moved the passenger's seat forward. Then, without effort, I was able
to pull forward the driver's side rear sit.
I went back to the RDS door and was able to easily move the seat now.
just to clarify - are you saying that you had to first slide forward the passenger's side seat, leave it forward, and then go back around to the driver's side and then you could move it forward?
what do you mean by "Then, without effort, I was able to pull forward the driver's side rear sit." did you move something first (from the passenger's side), and then move around and move the driver's side forward?
thanks so much for your help on this!!!
See, I was doing everything in a hurry -- it was beginning to snow. Essentially, I tried to recall how I succeeded in moving that seat forward in the past, once, It was fully locked today, originally, and there was nothing I could find to unlock it. But the mere fact of a prior success motivated me to do it, so I thought, "The other seat may be locking this one." Just tried it, it worked -- and now I will remember the way :-)
Let me know what you find when you try it.
(it needed replacing again a few years later) .I estimate it was put on with an impact wrench at over 300-350 ft lbs when 160 was the spec. ) I ended up jumping on the end of a few foot long breaker bar to remove it. (lucky) The other side that was never violated (original part) was removed no problem at the expected torque. Total morons. :mad:
Whenever possible/practical I do my own work and use the wrench. :shades:
if a computer issue...seems a simple reprogram and reflash would be the fix.....but still happy with mine...its been a true workhouse..with 160K on it now
i was wondering if theres a peice im missing or some sort of conversion.
I have a 2004 Maxx with just at 70K miles on it. Since I purchased it at 40K miles I've had the following issue:
Car will do the infamous "hard start" where it will sound like it is going to start but won't turn over fully until I give it a bit of gas. Seems to happen most often will gas is half a tank or lower and/or it's super hot outside.
However, I have a special bonus of when it does this my A/C will turn on and blow but the air it blows is not cooled. Problem in the summer. Also when it does this (in the winter) my rear window defrost/defog won't turn on.
Beyond that I am having cruise control issues that started at about 65K miles. When I first start the car if I engage the cruise control within about 5 miles or 5 minutes, it will engage just fine. However, once I have to disengage (step on the break, hit the off button) it will not allow me to resume OR reset the cruise control until I have put the car in park (for just a few seconds) or restarted it.
Beyond that one night a friend who was traveling behind me mentioned my CHMSL was flickering and now it is out entirely. I've read that can be BCM related.
I have an appointment next week to have diagnostics run on the car at $100/hour. Before I walk into that expense, can anyone give me any thoughts or even suggestions at how much replacing a BCM would cost. One place told me $80 for the part and then labor to program it (which has to be done at a dealer???) and another place told me I might need to replace the whole grid (?) at a cost of around $2K but even just the BCM being $800.
To replace the CHMSL is $110 but I don't want to do that if it's not the part but the BCM that is the issue.
I have followed the OEM maintenance schedule and now basicially flush all fluids every 50K and have been running mobil 1 full synth exclusively since 30K and changes every 6-7K with no problems...
the heat temp guage is normal from all I have experienced....it normally hovers just above the mid line mark, but idling or sitting in traffice for a extended period of time and the needle will move just as you describe...again I have experience no ill effects because of it.