Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Focus Transmission Problems

1235717

Comments

  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Just my 2 cents. It sounds as if the rumble is related to the viscosity of the trans fluid or a thermo sensor related to the trans.
    Are you super-sure you have the proper fluid in it, and there is not tooo much fluid?

    The light blowing and the gauges.....eeek. Intermittent electrical is one of the worst to find, however...if that entire cluster twitches, I would think the issue would be either the connector for that cluster or in the power source that feeds it.
    One time my dash light would flicker a bit and then I kept blowing the minivan fuse that ran my dash panel lights. I found the problem was in my trailer wiring harness had worn through in the back and was shorting out causing me to lose dash and running lights.
    GL Dean
  • TimdrivesafordTimdrivesaford Member Posts: 6
    See post # 165 for my first entry about this issue.

    Back in May, I had a new Jarvis tranny put in a 2005 Focus with about 89K miles. on it. The original transmission failed about 12K miles after the car experienced numerous, strange electrical problems.

    I continue to have transmission problems and am about to take the car back to the garage for the third time. The car runs fine for a day or so. Then shifitng becomes very rough. The OD light flashes and the "check engine " light comes on. Codes show a heat sensor on the tranny keeps blowing. Last time it also showed a bad ground in the left tail light. Garage has already replaced sensor twice and thoroughly cleaned the ground connection. What else could be causing this to happen?

    The strange electrical prolems from last year included a blown alternator, anti-theft fuse that blew, and a seemingly good battery rather suddenly turning into one that held no charge. All through these issues, the battery idiot light never came on although I had it tested and it is working.

    Any ideas, anyone?????
  • focusfredfocusfred Member Posts: 2
    I have been using Castrol Trans fluid for high milage transmissions, it is a Merc V fluid. I have checked, re-checked, and re-re-checked fluid levels numerous times. I have thought the issues were with internal lubrication not being sufficient but have not been able to figure out a solution. I thought perhaps it might be an issue with a solenoid or valve body but not sure where to begin to check that. It has been hard finding good repair literature, especially when it comes to dealing with the tranny. Any suggestions on where to get a good manual for tranny repair for this car?

    Thanks~
    Fred
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Hey Fred,
    We all feel your pain.
    Internal lube doesn't sound like the issue here, while I am not sure if the '04 & '02 trannys are the same, the same basic issues apply.
    If it were a solenoid, it should show up when you have the codes scanned.
    Maybe the dash-electrical issue effects the scanning of the computer??
    How many times have you had it scanned?
    Are you sure it was a good scan?
    Getting a repair manual for the tranny.....my only idea would either be a "Haynes" type manual or go online and see if someone offers a better one there.
    GL
    Dean.
  • fuzzy46fuzzy46 Member Posts: 3
    I'm trying to find an AZ or AA in my (New York) area that will read my transmission codes. Any I've contacted claim they can only do it if the check engine light is on. Is this true?

    While I don't have a light, I do have the banging/clunking up and down shifting between third and fourth that some seem to have described in this forum. I'm trying to find out what's up.

    Any other places to try besides AZ or AA for the codes?

    Thanks.
  • carvaz4611carvaz4611 Member Posts: 8
    Yes, check engine light has to be "ON", scanner only diagnoses when the light comes on, it sounds like hard parts or possibly a bearing in the transmission broke, you don't say wether auto or stick.
  • carvaz4611carvaz4611 Member Posts: 8
    yes it can, pour 3 qts of fluid wait about 5 min. pur 1 more qt then start the engine, leave in park, let engine idle about 5 min addd another qt. drive the car around the block, put car in reverse with the brake on for a minute or so. put car back in park check fluid level, should read about a quart low fill to mark and you're set, just had mine done and that's the way the tranni shop did it.
  • carvaz4611carvaz4611 Member Posts: 8
    Try EBAY, you need to know which tranni you have, there should be a sticker on the oil pan and on the top of the tranni but it's hard to see. There are listings for rebuilt valve bodies also anywhere from 75.00 to 200.00 depending on the trans. Good luck
  • rocko8507rocko8507 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 03 ford focus zx3. it's a vin 3, 2.0 DOHC. My problem is this, The car will not go into gear while the car is on. While the car is off, It'll go into all gears just fine. If for example i put the car into first gear while the car is off, then start the car, while keeping my foot on the clutch, the car wants to move forward but will not stall. At first i thought it was the clutch, but i've owned 4 manual transmission cars, and i've had the clutch wear out on almost all of them. The clutch on my focus has showed no signs of slipping, or any other problems for that matter. I noticed about 2 to 3 days prior to the car not moving at all an odd shake in the clutch pedal, and i can't quite remember, but i think it may have popped itself out of gear once. i have heard from several different people several different possibilities. i've heard pretty much everything from the clutch to the master and or slave cylinder, to the syncros in the transmission. Upon inspection tonight, i found that there is a small white piece of plastic that is attatched to the clutch pedal. not quite sure what it is or what it's called so bear with me here, but it's pretty much a plunger assembly. it moves with the clutch pedal and pushes into a black rubber plunger i guess.... at any rate, the black rubber is attatched to hydraulic lines that go to the brake fluid resevoir (*sp?). when you depress the clutch and release it, you can see small amounts of brake fluid coming out from the black rubber. So i'm wondering if i'm not having a problem with hydraulic pressure considering this is a hydraulic clutch (at least i think so from what i've been told). i'm absolutely clueless as to what to do and so are my friends. i don't have a whole lot of money (which is why it's been sitting for almost 2 months), so i don't want to put the money into anything unless i'm almost positive it will be a sure fix. any recommendations will be tremendously appreciated. :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh yeah, this sounds exactly like a hydraulic clutch system problem.
  • r1derbiker1derbike Member Posts: 2
    Transmission bearing failure on my above Focus SE, loaded (4 speed auto). Developed "grunching", whining, and momentary locks-up, and strange shifting behavior last 1000 miles. I say last 1000 miles because this is the 2nd time I've had it in for transmission problems.

    The dealer couldn't duplicate the problem the first time, so I had to drive the vehicle until issues were prevalent to troubleshoot.

    Not happy with this vehicle on all fronts. First new vehicle I have purchased since 1992, and will be my first and last Ford.

    I put nearly a quarter million miles on my Jeep Cherokee before it was totalled by an Ford F250, so I don't abuse vehicles.

    I should have gone with my gut and purchased the Honda Civic.

    Hindsight.

    Charles
  • r1derbiker1derbike Member Posts: 2
    Dealer got tranny back together/mounted. Mechanic test drove it; STILL TRANNY PROBLEMS!

    Another tear-down and more parts ordered. Service Manager said it is a good thing that the mechanic test drove it. I smell a Lemon Law claim brewing.

    Has anyone else had issues with their 2009 Focus Auto tranny?

    I can't believe I'm the only one...

    Charles
  • cinnfulcinnful Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 ford focus(auto), i had to a new transmission put in about a year and a half ago. (POS FORD)

    about 2 days ago, i put my car in gear, turned my wheel right and started to back up, it felt like my right wheel was shaking.

    i called my dad he took it to the shop, they said it was the transmission, something about worn clutch plates.

    i don't think it could be that

    i can't find anything about this, what are common problems do worn clutch plates cause?

    thanks.
  • rocko8507rocko8507 Member Posts: 2
    Just replaced the clutch master cylinder. bled the thing about 20 times. still no dice. Still will not shift into any gear while the car is on, but off it shifts just fine. Ordered a new CPP due to the fact that the car threw a check engine light for it about 2 years ago, hoping this might be the final fix. if that doesn't work i'm completely lost. i'm about ready to just douse the car in gasoline and torch it. words cannot express how frustrated i am with this car. has anyone else had this problem? i've seen numerous posts that sound identical, but nobody has posted a fix to it.
  • carvaz4611carvaz4611 Member Posts: 8
    The only other thing i can think of would be the slave cylinder located by the trans.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well can you observe if the clutch fork is moving when you press the pedal---does the clutch slave cylinder actually push the rod to work the clutch fork in and out?

    If there's little or no motion, then it's your clutch hydraulics.

    Bleeding clutch hydraulics on some cars can be a devil of a job---sometimes you just need pressure bleeding tools.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if it were worn clutch plates, the transmission would slip badly. Is this what happened? How exactly did they come to this diagnosis I wonder? X-ray vision?

    Anyway, if they've guessed right, worn clutch plates are something that happens eventually to all transmissions, the result of wear and tear, miles, and heat. The clutch plates are what "grab" the power generated by the torque converter, and these plates are applied or released depending on what gear you are in. They can be controlled by electronics, or hydraulic pressure, or both. Usually they slip and start to burn off their friction material.
  • buffeebuffee Member Posts: 7
    Judging from all the focus tranny complaints, we should all get together & do a class action lawsuit. Ford should be held responsible! 3500$ for a automatic transmission at 26,000...ford sucks!
  • azcrewazcrew Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has an 01Focus. I replaced the engine two weeks ago and it ran like a
    new car. Two days ago she said it was "acting funny". I drove it and noticed that the
    transmission seemed to be slipping and not shifting correctly. I drained the pan and replaced the filter. As I was about to put new fluid in it I noticed that there is
    way more oil in the drain pan than the 3.1qts that the book says should take to
    refill after filter service. My question is. Is it possible for the fluid in the torque
    converter to pump/leak back into the transaxle and over filling it ? I know the
    fluid level was correct before the engine change.
  • ifontaineifontaine Member Posts: 24
    You two have saved me THOUSANDS of dollars!!!!!

    Car started shifting into neutral on the freeway, and I freaked out. 2002 ZTW with 131,000 miles on it. Took it to our garage (new to the shop, hadn't been going there long). Mechanic told me the tranny was done and quoted me $1700 for a used one, and $3200 for a rebuilt jasper.

    Came home over the weekend, found this thread, read the entire thing....printed out posts 76 & 110, and we showed it to the mechanic, who all of a sudden was, "Oh yeah, well, that could be it, but it could also be the tranny, and we didn't want you to be mad at us if we did the solenoid and didn't fix the issue." Pure BS. So then, they wanted $600 for a tranny flush, new filter and the solenoid. We said no thank you, please put it back to together. Paid them for their time and drove off.

    My buddy and I spent about 2 hours last night doing this and it worked like a charm. My only issue is a small leak that I need to locate and check.

    Thanks to aokrongly and dno36 for you knowledge and compassion to share with this thread.
  • buffeebuffee Member Posts: 7
    Yes the VERY 1st thing I did was replace the SYLINOID....ran ok for 29 days..then it happened all over again....so thats why I had to replace the tranny! 2nd opinions are always good...but I have to tell you, my mechanics.....that I take my cars too, I have been with them for 20 years....and HONESTY is part of their policy,.unlike FORD..who hires a bunch of liars & thieves! :lemon:
  • munducanimunducani Member Posts: 1
    I followed this proceedure and it fixed my overdrive problem perfectly. Thank you so much for your post and the part numbers and everything. You can trust his procedure.
  • pepper2275pepper2275 Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 2001 Focus with the Zetec engine, automatic transmission. I find the vibration is worse when its colder, but as you said after 20-30 minutes of driving the vibration smooths out. I get it in park, reverse, and neutral while sitting still. I also get it while driving, but only while its still cool. It happens then like after you crest a hill and the transmission is being slowed by the enging when the throttle is released. Then it will happen again when I am climbing a hill with a lower rpm. Upshifting by accelerating stops the vibration. Sometimes I get a hesitation when I press the gas to upshift, and it will make a 'chirp' when it shifts. The hesitation and chirp do not seem to stop when it warms up, but the hesitation gets a little better.
    I see a lot of upset people in here, but I am not one of them! I have this one paid off, so it will probably die like the rest of the cars I've paid off. I have put 187K on this car, and hauled too much and not cared for it as well as I should. The only issue I have had with it was the 2 ignition switches I put in at almost $400 each. 12 month 12K warranty on an ignition switch? Oh well. The first one I bought lasted 13 months- go figure.
    Any help on the tranny issue would be appreciated!!!
  • qaemanqaeman Member Posts: 1
    im having the same problem with my 2000 zx3 did u find out what it was if so what was it?? Dustin :cry:
  • yobynnadyobynnad Member Posts: 1
    Hi, new to the forum.

    My car doesn't accelerate good anymore. While driving, shifting from first to second, it will go ok. But from second to third, it will rev up and change gears. It doesn't maintain speed as it drops slowly and the car will joint with a gear change. Also, the O/D light will turn after a while if it keeps on going back and forth trying to change gears. The miles on my car are over 130,000 +.

    I have taking it to a auto-shop who did a diagnostic on it and it had two faults with it. One was a transmission chip fault, and the other I don't remember.

    Can i be able to fix this on my own or should I take it to a mechanic?
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Hi Yobi, and welcome.

    Lets have you take it to an Autozone-type auto parts center where they will do a free scan for you , and give you the results printed for your assessment.

    It only takes about 5 minutes to do it all. There may or may not be one to many numerical codes given by the cars computer that correspond with a possible engine fault.

    After you get that done, please post back with the results and we can go from there.

    Cheers

    Dean
  • lincolnman317lincolnman317 Member Posts: 1
    I had my trans rebuilt at 63k. First the dealership replaced the servo and valve body. Still didn't fix the problem. It was slipping in 3 and fourth. With these two parts bad it ruined the 3 and fourth gear clutches and the overdrive band. When I picked it up it was fine, so I thought. Now at 73,335 miles, it is having shifting issues. It won't down shift and seems like it also hesitates up shifting too. Go to past a car and it bogs down. It just wouldn't shift. I had to hold it to the floor for it to shift. :sick: I wish it was paid off. It would then be put out of it's missery(demo derby) :)
  • user451user451 Member Posts: 1
    Our 2003 ZTW ~70k started getting a vibration, that was worse in reverse and which also decreased after it warmed up, however it got progressively worse over time, it turned out to be the passenger side hydraulic motor mount, which wasn't to difficult to change. Also the lower rear engine roll restrictor (Dogbone) may pickup some stones and cause this common Focus problem.

    We also have the issue were the trans is slow to engage and clunks after braking and then accelerating. It's rare now after switching to Amsoil Synth Tranny fluid.

    Ignition yup that's a new one I've order a Strattec 707592 replacement cylinder online, and removed the pins from the cylinder in the meantime to prevent complete ignition cylinder failure. And fixed up the squealing blower motor.

    Now the ABS and Traction Control lights clear and then come on after after a short drive.

    Oddly enough we just bought a new Honda Cr-V instead of the Escape.

    Pay up front or pay later, either way you pay ;-)
  • focus5focus5 Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 2002 Focus with the Ztec and automatic transmission and now the transmission refuses to shift into fourth gear. Is it possible there is a fix that doesn't result in tons of money leaving my possession?
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Get it scanned at a local parts store for free and post results back here.

    GL

    Dean
  • backyardmech2backyardmech2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 focus automatic. It has 90000 miles. When in drive the transmission is slow to slip out of first. Then when it does there is no second gear and engine revs. Took it to ford dealer, and six weeks later they said it was a wiring harness problem and wanted $3500 to fix. They replaced the PCM and that did not fix it. I had them put the old one back in and brought it home after paying the $1000 for diagnostics. I am an electronic tech so I purchased a service manual and checked out the wiring harness my self. It checks good all the way from the PCM to the tranny. The voltages to energize the solinoids is being applied to the tranny connector at the appropriate times. The solinoids pass the resistance test, so I am assuming they are good. My code reader give me a P0750 solinoid A code, and occasionally a P0755 solinoid B code. Does anyone have an idea what may be wrong with the tranny?
  • dmeecedmeece Member Posts: 4
    I finally fixed my daughter's car after many parts. I replaced the mass air flow, o2 sensor, PCV valve, and ignition coil. None of that helped. I started to think maybe a jealous girl put something in the gas tank so I took it to Valvoline to have the fuel injection system cleaned. While performing that service the VIOC tech asked me if I had any electrical work done. We hadn't so I got out to look at what he had seen. Turns out a mouse or a squirrel had gotten under the hood and destroyed 3 bundles of wiring and a return tube for something that has to do with the air flow. After reconnecting all of the wiring (thank god for color coated wires) and splicing in tubing back together EVERYTHING is working great. She was even having trouble with the automatic transmission not shifting beyond 3rd gear. That is now also fixed. What a relief....I got out pretty cheap overall I guess but it was still a major headache. The only thing I don't understand is why the garage I took it to didn't notice any of this when they had it for two days!!!! WHEW!!!!
  • tikveniktikvenik Member Posts: 1
    I have same problem did you get it repaired
  • pepper2275pepper2275 Member Posts: 2
    Not yet- I am hoping it could be a motor mount issue or something other than the tranny, but I am going to have it checked out at a shop. I have also noticed that the vibration is worse when the car is leaning forward down the hill (in park). Much softer and almost normal when the nose is uphill. About the same result in reverse, too.
  • dewolfe01dewolfe01 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2003 Focus that is having serious issues with the transmission.

    It has an AT, and when driving, if I reach a speed of +/- 60km the transmission slides into neutral. The only way to keep the vehicle moving in a forward direction is to drop it into 2nd and reduce my speed.

    The "check engine" light came on a few days ago, about the same time the tranny started to slip. I don't know if the two are related or if its coincidence.

    I've read several of the posts here and am learning that transmission issues can be linked to may factors, but while everyone talks about slipping from 3rd to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd, no one has mentioned slipping into neutral, so I'm wondering if my situation is unique or if "neutral" is just my cars "slipped to" gear of choice?

    Thanks to any and all that can shed light on this issue for me.
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Get it scanned for free at a major auto parts store and post back what codes were given. We want the code numbers, not what they think is wrong.
    I am betting on our old friend 0750.
    GL
    Dean.
  • chicago1972chicago1972 Member Posts: 1
    I own an 05 Ford Focus,i am getting code 3 P0767 , which is shifter solenoid D stock on. The transmission sometimes gets stuck on D and sometimes it revs before engaging into a 2nd gear and it would not shift into a 3rd gear. I have replaced solenoid A but it did not get any better. Now, that i am viewing the diagram you posted, it seemed like the shifter solenoid for D is number 707H , which is the big solenoid. Did you have that replaced, what was the result?
  • tslropertslroper Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Ford Focus SE with the DOHC and auto transmission. The car is in great condition and only has 79.8k miles on it. We've had no issues with the vehicle thus far (bought it from the local ford dealership used and as-is in april with 72k miles). In early October I was rear-ended while coasting by a van moving about 30MPH. The damage to the vehicle seemed to be fairly minor and only body damage estimated at about $2.4k. However the vehicle was making a barely discernable noise that vaguely sounded like the CV joint. It took a few weeks but fortunately the other guy's insurance approved the claim and got the car to a body shop. I notified the insurance about the noise and told them I dont feel comfortable driving the vehicle given the drive-train noise and possible issues. Following the accident the vehcile was driven home and sat for about a week then to the body shop with no issues other than the noise increasing in volume. Upon picking up the vehicle from the body shop (note: a trusted body shop run by a friend), I was notified that they smelled power steering fluid the few times they moved the vehicle. I made it less than a mile up the road before the OD indicator on the dash began flashing off and on rapidly and smoke began pouring from the hood. I returned to the shop and called the insurance to have the vehicle towed home. When i got to the shop i had issues getting the key out of the ignition and had to bump the shifter to get the transmission to settle into park. Granted it seemed to be engaged but would not release the key until i bumped the gearshift forward a few times. The smoke did not smell like coolant but rather something burning. I notified the insurance company that was handling repairs on the vehicle who had it towed to the dealership it was purchased from. I spoke to the service department at the dealership who told me there was an issue with the rack & pinion and valve body but could not give much more information because they needed to wait for the appraiser to review the vehicle. When i was hit I was knocked into a curd, the front drivers side tire hitting the curb but i didnt think anything of it. My question is, are these problems likely caused by the accident? Could the transmission issue be the solenoid? Unfortunately i dont have error codes for you as the vehicle is currently at the dealership. I'm hoping I wont have any issues with the insurance company repairing the vehicle as it was in perfect working order prior to the accident and was my daily driver. Thanks for the time and help guys.
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Doubtful if the solenoid is an issue.
    Scanning will not show anything recent unless the 'check engine' light has come on.
    The car getting 'pinched' between a curb and a van could cause a shift in the engine/trans in relation to the body of the car itself.
    The front end and powertrain should be checked for being out of proper alaignment.
    Just my 2-bits
    Dean
  • tslropertslroper Member Posts: 2
    Hmm, and the issue with the key and overdrive light? Do you think the drivetrain being out of alignment would cause those issues? Just trying to figure out whats going on here so i dont get the shaft between the dealership and the insurance company. Like I said the car was in perfect working and driveable condition prior to the accident.
  • sheenasmusicsheenasmusic Member Posts: 3
    Hello, came accross this thread, and was so glad it was current! My automatic transmission in my 2002 Focus won't go into 4th gear, started as a one time incident that followed with a hesitation to go into 4th, but the next day refused to go into into that gear at all and my check engine light came on. I called my Autozone about the free diagnotistic check, but they advised its no longer available in CA (same thing at the Napa and other shops I called). I checked my fluid and it was low, so I took it to my nearest Firestone to get the tranny fluid topped off and to get a diagnotic check. The diagnostic came back that it was indeed the #P0750 Shift Solenoid Malfunctioning that has been noted in this thread. I can't do the repair myself, and have to take it to a specialist to do, but wanted to make sure I was educated enough not to get screwed at the shop. Is there anything more serious that could have caused the Solenoid to malfunction? Since my fluid was low and its disengaging in 4th? If they say its something more serious, should I insist they just replace this solenoid?
    Thanks for your help! So thankful!!!!!
  • rhende24rhende24 Member Posts: 1
    My car has been acting odd for a few weeks now, about 3 weeks ago it rained really hard and I blamed its strange behavior on that. The 1st incident, I walked out to my car to go to work in the morning , turned the ignition and the engine started revving up and down, and when I popped the hood the engine was literally bouncing, I was horrified I honestly thought my engine was about to die right in front of me, well I park on an inclined driveway and it had been raining so I assumed maybe something got wet, because after a few minutes of this engine bouncing madness I turned off the car, restarted it and it acted normal. I was concerned about driving to work wondering whether my car would restart at the end of the day, I didn't have any issues with it for a few days, and then I noticed that when i came to a stop suddenly, or downshifted the car would idle strangely, almost as if it were to shut off, it never did though. (It has not had any engine lights go on) Then that stopped as well..and now today when I took it out of park to run an errand for work I pushed the pedal to accelerate into drive and it stuck..like i had the e brake on..and then it lurched forward. The car was in drive, and the brakes were not engaged, and now its back to doing the idling thing where it shudders like it may die when I come to a stop or am in the process of slowing down! Is this a common problem? Could it be something simple like a dirty spark plug ?? The engine has 200k miles on it (mostly highway, my father commuted to work w.the vehicle) we have had pretty much 0 problems other than the rack and pinion which we replaced 2x (seemed like a faulty design). But the vehicle has had regular matinance and no major issues or accidents! Any help would be appreciated!
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Hello sheenas,

    Sounds as if you are on the right track here.
    Has the issue changed at all since you topped off the fluid?

    You really do not need a specialty shop to this job, it is quite easy.

    The 0750 is solenoid "A" costs about $50 retail at your local dealer.
    It is pretty straight-forward to replace it and can be done in a driveway in less than 2 hours.
    I do not know what "book-time" is for this item, however the whole thing should be under $350 with the needed 3 quarts of fluid, new filter and gasket set.

    Keep us advised and good luck.

    Dean.
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    rhende,

    Sounds like you have this posted on the wrong board, as this sounds electrical/computer related.

    GL
  • sheenasmusicsheenasmusic Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your response Dean! I truly appreciate your help. The fluid didn't change anything noticably, I'm still having the same problem with 4th gear. I wish I could repair the solenoid myself, but I'm a single 24 year old female 400 miles away from home, living in a very strict apartment complex in the city where we are not allowed to do auto repairs in the subterranean parking garage, no street parking to do it there if thats even legal, plus I don't own any of the tools I would probably need. So I just wanted to educate myself enough on the issue to be able to talk to the shop without them thinking I was a naive little girl they could take advantage of! Tranny's are expensive and I didn't want to replace it if it doesn't need to be, so I am SO thankful I can now come to them with the diagnostic error code and tell them what to do instead of them giving me the huge list of repairs and services they'd say I would need! Thank you so much!
  • sheenasmusicsheenasmusic Member Posts: 3
    Ok, so I drove my car to the transmission specialist this morning, this guy was referred to me by the company I work for, they take all the company vehicles there so they set up the appointment for me (how nice!). He did a courtesy diagnostic check right in front of me in the parking lot to make sure the code Firestone gave me was correct and that there were no other codes showing up (it was too easy, makes me angry Firestone charged me so much for it!). It was definitely the P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction, he showed me the reading. He checked the fluid again and it was still just as low as when I checked it myself before I took it to Firestone! So either (A) I have a major Tranny Fluid Leak, or (B) Firestone forgot to top of the Tranny Fluid like I asked them to do with the Oil Change and Diagnostic Check. I am betting its B, because I would have noticed a major leak like that under my car when I drove away this morning (I will deal with them later). So the tranny specialist this morning added fluid for me (for free) and we drove her around the block to show him what the problem was that I was experiencing and is able to take it in to replace the solenoid on Monday. He said its safe to drive it locally small distances until then, so I left the shop (without a bill at least until Monday) and decided to drive the car to work now that I KNOW is has fluid in it, and 4th gear slowly started working again. It was hesitating to change into that gear for a while and then lurching forward when it finally took, but it slowly started to smooth out once the fluid was being distributed. I'll be keeping an eye on the fluid level over the next couple days to see if I do have a major leak, and will be monitoring how well its working now with the fluid level back to where it should be.
    SO glad its looking like there isn't any major problems! Thank you to this thread and to Dean for keeping me hopeful and sane through all of this! MUCH appreciated!
  • carvaz4611carvaz4611 Member Posts: 8
    Was the tranni filled with mercon V fluid? very important, i had my fluid changed and they didn't use mercon V, tranni acted up, replaced it and now shifts properly.
  • luvmargluvmarg Member Posts: 1
    i have been working on my freinds car he has a 200 focus auto trans the ck engine light came on it has a p 0705 error code it wont go into 1st and when it goes into reverse there is a short hesitation a bang and the engine stalls anyone have any ideas
  • mommom13mommom13 Member Posts: 1
    somebody help..i have 2003 focus se. it has 68k miles on it. after reading on this forum i decided to join.. my car slips into neutral instead of third or fourth gear. now for the biggest problem at hand.. i took it to a very reputable dealership in our area. this was before i read some of the threads of this forum.. dealership diagnosed it as solenoid. and quoted me a price of 572.00.. final charge was 609 with tax.. i reluctantlly parted with my money yesterday and drove away from the dealership. not ONE mile from there.. guess what?... same problem.. put the car in 2 and drove straight back.. after relooking at the car the counter guy reported to me over the phone a conflict.. first before rechecking with the mechanic.,, he said that he thought he remembered the mech. saying that it may be a wire..after my insisting over the phone that i verify that with mech. ,, the answer was that the solenoid that they replaced was bad and that they were ordering a new one.. two days for it to come in.. by the way ,, my charge on the solenoid was $148.20 not the prices that i have seen here.. on the invoice they called it an [ XS4Z 7G484 AA:SOLENOID ASY ] they also installed a XS4Z 7G276 AB : CONNECTOR @ $64.02. plus a 5010884AA : SEALER : RTV @ $7.76 . first how close are these prices as well as could you help me with what proper labor charges should be..also..has ANYBODY ever got a faulty replacement solenoid.. i really need some help and advice here..
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    I would still take the car to a large auto parts store and get the computer scanned.
    I would assume the "check engine" light is on.

    It seems as if you are 1-step past this thread really being able to assist.
    Your fate now lies with the dealer and your relationship with them.
    As with most dealers, and many "repair" shops, they will charge you for anything that will make them money, if you need it or not. You may get a new part that is possibly unnecessary ($64.02-connector).

    The new solenoid could be a bad one.
    You need to have them do the replacement, and hope that they don't "[non-permissible content removed]" you around, finding other items that will pad their coffers.
    Hopefully they will remedy the problem without your added financial support.

    GL

    Dean
Sign In or Register to comment.