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Comments
D
Thank you
jamie
I am having the same issue. #P0750 Shift Solenoid Malfunctioning. My mechanic wants to charge me $275 for the part (says its the Pump and Base) then another $500 for labour. I was wondering when you changed your oil and the problem went away did it come back?? I am hoping all i have to do is change my oil........... Advice please
Now if i can simply just change my transmission fluid, then i will.
PLEASE ANY ONE ADVICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :sick:
If you are getting a 0750 code, the changing of fluid will not cure it.
The code is given by the computer due to an electrical or mechanical issue with the AA solenoid, and the problem needs to be fixed.
When your "mechanic" tells you pump and base, this does not make any sense with the 0750 code at all!!
Read the old posts here and learn why the advice you have been given is not in line with logical troubleshooting process.
If you went to a hospital and had a blood test and they told you that you had high blood sugar, and when you went to a second doctor, and he said you needed a kidney transplant using just the information the blood test told you, would you let him operate??
Changing oil will not help with the 0750 code.
You may be wise to find another mechanics help.
GL
Dean
What is typical for routine trans service fluid change, around $90? I am inclined to have a Ford dealer do the service on the trans.
There are no maintance lights on when this occurs, so I know that having it scanned won't do any good. Any ideas on what this could be would be helpful!
My car had a 1S4P ('00) model, and the new one will be a 3S4P ('03-'04), from a junkyard. Locally, I find the best deals on low mileage units, all labeled 3S4P-CA. I know the -DA will fit 100%, but those are all over 100K miles. However, the -CA models show it fit DOHC in 2003, but in 2004 it shows SOHC. I know it will bolt up, but their are internal differences, and I don't want to reflash the ecu, as this car is already costing me a lot of $$$$$. My local Ford techs are less than helpful, since they aren't making any money on this deal.
Can anyone tell me if a 2003 3S4P-CA will work, or if it needs mods, what those might be. I have got a lot of "probably" and "I think it will's", but before I spend $450, I'd like to know for sure.
Thank in advance, great site,
Stephan Mackin
email: miragesmack@bellsouth.net
Thanks
its a cheap fix for a problem that can be realy costly if you go to the "wrong" repair shop.
Scan the codes, follow the easy steps. done.
Note, ours is a 2003, differences in the trannys may be small but there may be differences.
GL
Dean
Luckily for me, on a Friday night, an older gentleman and his wife said they'd open the shop for me if I could get there. He drove it, nothing happened. He put it on the computer and got the PO750. He only charged me $20, which I thankfully paid.
I drove the 100 miles home, at first I couldn't get past 20 mph, so I threw on my hazzards and threw it in neutral then back to drive. I did it 3 times and it finally sped up. I drove 55 home and didn't have much of a problem the rest of the way!
I am hoping to get this solenoid fixed tomorrow. I just wanted to share my store, swear once again I'll never buy a Ford product again (nothing but problems. I've owned 10+ cars, only the Fords have been giving me trouble, and the dealerships are a pain to deal with!! Chevy was always helpful with small things)
Thank you for all the advice in this thread. I'm printing out the codes and the instructions on how to change it and I am PRAYING my dad can do the work tomorrow, or a friend of his. Thank you for this site for helping out the people who are not so mechanic-savvy.
Btw, once the car started running better on the way home, I noticed it FINALLY shifted gear around 55-60 or so. It has NEVER done that! I always thought it was just the way a 4 cylinder ran, since it's the first time I ever owned one. Engine light is still on, from when I got more gas and restarted it... but it runs great.
I guess I should still get it replaced, huh? My luck isn't so good that it just fixed itself. I wish it was.
Sorry to hear of your highway turmoil.....
It does appear pretty typical for the "A" solenoid issue here.
It's a pretty quick fix and not tooo much $$. Don't take shortcuts and it should go smoothly and you should be running fine for less than $100.
Glad you spotted this forum.
Good Luck
Dean
I'm trying to call a few more people, but being Saturday, not sure who could spare an hour or two. Thanks for your help. I don't trust dad's friend since I always have to take it back a 2nd time when he fixes it. Ha. Sheesh.
Btw, I called the Ford dealer, Napa, AutoZone... no one has one in stock. You'd think with all the problems, they'd have some. I have no clue who else to call.
why would my a/t focus 2003 w/split port engine would jerk repitedly and hesitate for first several minutes of driving when the engine is cold. It happens only in drive and reverse when giving gas and really doesn't act up every day. No codes present and lights illuminated ever. Trans fluid level and condition ok, it was serviced 2 years ago along w/Ford genuine fluid and filter.
Please help srtuggling Honda tech.
What now? Once again my brother IS a certified mechanic! And he tells me NO mistakes were made. Should we try and replace another solenoid?
PLEASE HELP I LOVE MY LITTLE ORANGE CAR!!!!!
Thanks
Merry
Sounds like a major failure...Pump...etc.
From what I found out, you must get the "A" solenoid directly from a Ford parts dealer. If your local dealer does not have one, they usually will tell you which of the local dealers has one, unless they are schmucks. Just ask them. I needed to go about 25 miles to find ours.
Hope this gets to you in time and it helps
Dean
The O/D light blinking happens often with a trans code error.
Don't know why you replaced 2 solenoids?? The 0751 code does point back to the "A" solenoid. It is possible you got a bad one or there may be a loose connection.
The typical" problem fix here is for the 0750 code, however it seems that the 0751 code does get displayed when the "A" solenoid has gone bad as well.
So I'm guessing the code we have is not for the A solenoid? I read (and my brother read) the codes list posted here. Maybe the car was too far gone?
I'll post a general message.
Thanks!
Any ideas? Should we try and replace the A solenoid again? My brother is a very careful mechanic. Maybe all solenoids need replacing.
THANKS!!!
Dean
The lack of shifting tends to lead in another direction than just a solenoid issue.
Could be a bad "A" solenoid.
If it is a solenoid issue it wil usually have some function left.
Get it scanned to check and go from there.
good luck
D
It should have nothing to do with the trans at all as far as I know.
Solenoids in a package....LOL.... is this a way for FoMoCo to fleece us some more?? First I heard of it, but I wouldn't put it past them.
I might call a dealer out of your district and see if it is a new 'pill' we have to swallow, or maybe just the local dealers got together and are trying to pull one over on you.
Just for kicks I called my local Ford Dealer and they told me they do not have an "A" solenoid, but there is one about 15 miles away....not in a 'pkg'.
What is the exact code you car showed at AutoZone??
They will give you a printout of parts and procedure and the exact code if you ask.
GL
Dean
I own a 2002 Focus ZX5 automatic transmission. Since sometime I experience the following problem every once in a while: the car stops running after a big bang is heard. If this occurs I'm able to start again, but when I pull into Drive again, the motor might stop immediately or it stops after the first gear. It looks pretty similar to the problems I've read until now in this forum, but on the other hand it differs because until now I haven't read about anyone who said the motor stops running immediately after pulling into D. When I put my foot on the gas when pulling into D it might hold on for a few meters but then it stops anyhow after going into 2nd gear. The weird est thing about the whole matter is that this problem happened before. When I brought it to my mechanic he told me he couldn't find what the cause of the problem is. After that I drove for 5 months without a problem and now all of a sudden the problem is back. Anyone of you guys familiar with this behavior?
Thanks
FCUR
Trouble shifting into 2nd - engine revs up, slow to accelerate then shifts rough. Car jerks forward and it creeps me out. Found out it was the D Solenoid. Called Ford, they had no idea which one it was. Got a scan from AAMCO - said transmissions bad. Didn't believe them, took it Ford. Paid for the scan, and they said it was the blue solenoid. Bought part and had it replaced. Still same problem.. Called Ford, explained still having problems - they said that sometimes the scan will blame a solenoid when the transmission is going out. Outraged and desperate, had a free scan somewhere else, same code came up. Had them run a thorough electrical ck and everything checked out fine. Its been a month and no one can find out whats wrong with my car. Could the overdrive be the problem or is it the transmission? Any ideas, I'd really appreciate it. Please someone help me!!
I had an Honda Acccord with an auto trans that went out (frozen in secnd gear) at around 130K.
Initially how did you find out it was the "D" solenoid??
You called Ford.....who...parts, service, customer service??
The dealer you had the solenoid replaced at, how much did that cost you??
You took it and had a free scan done. Where did you go, and what was the code number???
Did you take the car to an autoparts store and have a free scan done to it??
If so, what was the exact code number shown. This number is critical!!
What did any of the scans you had done say as far as codes. You should be able to watch as they pull the codes.
If they say its too dangerous, or you are not allowed to, leave that place immediately, and go somewhere where you can trust each other.
It may be simple or a major issue.
Could be $100 or $2500.
You can buy a code reader for about $70 on E-Bay if you need. It takes 2 minuted to check your codes.
Slow down and take control of the process, and you will sleep better and probably be able to save yourself some $$.
Good Luck
Dean
I knew someone with a scanner, P0767 shift solenoid d stuck on came up.
Couldn't figure out which solenoid was bad.. Called around to various auto parts store and they all said that they no longer give free scans. Went to AAMCO, they wanted me to replace trans.Didn't tell me any codes.So I went to Ford and paid $125 just for the diagnostic ck. They told me the solenoid with the blue wire needed to be replaced. Bought the part for $188 and had a friend install for me. Didn't work.. Called Ford back and they said the scan will blame a solenoid if trans is going out. Everyone thought it would be a minor repair. Last try went to another "transmission shop" had a free scan. Same codes came up. Paid $200 for them to ck all the electrical components. Everything checked out fine. They wanted me to pay $752 for a tear down inspection. Said forget it I had enough!!! So I'm just going to get a R/B trans. What else can I do? I'm tired of getting ripped off!! Thanks for responding so quickly!!!
to replace it after reading lots of information on this site and manuals.
]My focus is now fixed and drives fine.lt has 140 K.
Thanks for all the info on this site!!!!!!!!!
John
if they don't, your brake position switch is bad and causing the problem.
I've came across a really weird situation with my tranny.
Here are the symptoms:
Wife was driving it, she drove it home and parked it and a few hours later she goes out and it wont move in reverse. It acts like its in 2 gears and its loading the engine down when you rev it. If you put it in first gear it does the same thing, If you put it in drive it acts like it's stuck in 3rd gear or something but it does move. When you kill the ignition it will jump forward a little bit. Last night we pulled 2 codes po731 and p0732...which just says no 1st and second. LIst of thngs could be the PCM, wiring or SSA, SSB or SSC. I really hate to pull the pan, replace a solenoid just to find out its not the right one. Theres been no other codes thrown...which I guess is my fault cause I pulled the batt cable and it cleared them. It acted up once before and my daughter pulled over and killed it, started it back up and it was fine. I checked it at home, cleared the codes and its been fine for a month or so.
This has happened before. You can go down the road and it acts like it just comes out of gear, slows down a bit and then takes back off. Wife and daughter said it started making a growling noise one time. I pulled the stick...fluid doesn't look NEW but it could be changed I guess. Theres no metal in the fluid that I can tell. It was changed about 10K miles ago.
I know its a long shot but any ideas? I've got fluid and filter ready to go but no solenoid yet.
I don't see where you have any choice, unless you want to sell it very cheap and take on the expense of a much lower miles used car, or a brand new car. You should be able to buy say a very low miles (40,000 or less) 2008 Focus SE sedan for around $10,000 or less.
The only question I have now, is how to ID SSC. One diagram I saw online labeled the solenoids 1, 2, 3, etc.. So does 1=A, 2=B, and so on? The diagram did include a color key for the leading wires. SSA and SSC both have neutral colors. I don't have time to do trial and error until I get the right one.
Does anyone know how to properly identify the solenoids?