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Ford Focus Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    One of the earlier posts in this thread includes a proper diagram and or pic with the ID's for the solenoids(A,B,C etc...) including the wire colors leading to them.
    I am leaving for work now and will not be able to assist in tracking until I return Saturday, but there is one somewhere in an earlier post here.
    Do not "trial & error" it!

    Dean.
  • merryemmerryem Member Posts: 6
    My Brother did mine. He said they are all different and there is only one way they would fit. I did not see them but I trust he would not lie to me.... I am the older sister! LOL

    GL
  • pmc650pmc650 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    The "A" solenoid is the only one with a white wire. I replaced the one in my daughter's 2002 Focus and it fixed the "overdrive is neutral" problem.

    After dropping the pan, I used a multimeter to check the old and new solenoids. The new one measured about 15 ohms from the connector to the metal body. The old (bad) one measured open (no connection).
  • merryemmerryem Member Posts: 6
    Just to update. We took it to Ford. I had bought and extended warranty (don't remember doing that but they said I did) and it was to expire in 10 days! I guess luck was on my side! The trans was slipping and they rebuilt it. Cost $100.00. I think it should have been free but in the back of my head I think it was the driver and not the car...

    Thanks all!
    Merry
  • fordboy4fordboy4 Member Posts: 1
    Where is the brake pedal switch and how do I change it?
  • allie0426allie0426 Member Posts: 1
    HI There...I know this post is old, but I'm having the EXACT same issue on the same vehicle with about the same miles. Pep boys pulled code p0772 (they were right in front of me when the problem occured) and I am going to take it to the dealer tomorrow as I'm hoping it is covered under the ford power train warranty. I was wondering how this turned out for you?
  • focus87focus87 Member Posts: 1
    I have and 2003 ford focus lx with 99850miles, just recently my car started jerking on me, 1st and 2nd shift is good but when i goes into 3rd it feels like the car is on neutral, my neighbor scanned my car and the code P0750 Bad function of Shift Solenoid A, had called the ford dealership and they dont go by those codes and want to charge me $100 just for a scan. But the problem is I cant find a Shift Solenoid A anywhere in which is also know as a Shift Control Solenoid, Ive been calling places and they said they have to order the part from Ford but ford is selling it for $171, I live in SW Florida can anyone help me locate this solenoid I dont have the money to pay 171. Thank you
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Stay calm focus87.
    Search back in this thread, there are many helpful posts, use the search feature to find exactly what you need.
    If yours scanned 0750 you need an "A" solenoid.
    It costs about $48 at the Ford parts counter. Don't let them BS you.
    Follow the many here who have had the same issue.
    One of these posts has the Ford part # for the solenoid as well.
    Check posts #76 & #110 for more info.
    GL
    Dean
  • nitahitznitahitz Member Posts: 3
    The ford Part number is XS4Z-7H148-AA. SOLENOID ASY $46.67 IS WHAT I PAID FOR IT. Unfortunately it did not work for me I need a new trans. Hope it works for you.
  • nyyneefnnyyneefn Member Posts: 1
    My problem started with a 1996 Ford Contour-transmission problems-dealer I bought the car from said they took it to FORD,(later found out they didn't) Ended up with a 2002 Focus. It has been sitting for 5 yrs with transmission problems. Finally in April got a mechanic to put in an aftermarket(from a popular company) Same problem. Shifting from drive to 2nd it jerks. Now 4 transmissions later I am still having the same problem. Another mechanic told me to google transmissions and here I am. I am on disability, have put over $2000 into my car in the last month, otherwise the car is in great shape. This new mechanic told me it is the solinodes(msp).

    My dad was a master mechanic. I know how to change oil, spark plugs, brakes, just not transmissions. He is no longer with us. Can anyone help with suggestions. Called FORD and they said that I can't rely on what is on the web
  • miamay9miamay9 Member Posts: 3
    edited June 2010
    I own a 2002 ford focus and once again having problems with the transmission. A few yers ago i had to have a censer replaced in it cause it would only go 30miles ph. Now my problem is that before the transmission warms up, i can drive it forward and then in reverse,but as soon as it's warm it stops. the replacement of a transmission is costly and hoping it might be another censer. Please help!
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Have you had the computer scanned??
  • miamay9miamay9 Member Posts: 3
    No i haven't can't drive it to get it scanned. once it gets warm it doesn't move at all in either direction.how can i get this done.
  • brunocordellabrunocordella Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    Anybody knows how to replace the "E" solenoid and what is the wiring colors? :( :sick:
  • miamay9miamay9 Member Posts: 3
    Ok~! I called Auto Zone to rent this scanning machine to see what is wrong with my car and to see what code i need. They told me as long as my engine light isn't on it won't scan. So i go out to make sure the engine light still pops up when i start my car and just my luck it won't. Any other ideas! Please help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not necessarily true. Codes may be stored but generally from problems that self-corrected (for the moment). Hence the light went out after a certain number of restarts with the problem not signaling the computer.
  • sunriseflsunrisefl Member Posts: 1
    Just reading this today you can try What Ever It Takes 954-941-0671, don;t know if they sell to the public or just repair shops
  • efdooleyefdooley Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Ford Focus that has a little over 69000 miles on it. I began to notice that when it needs to shift up (from 3rd gear up from what I can tell) I feel a vibration and it will either shift back down or finally jump up to the gear it needs to be in. This problem was much more frequent when traveling up a hill. Over the weekend, as I was driving (up an incline), the car seemed like it didn't want to shift up at all and revved very loudly with no increased power. Then the O/D off light began flashing. I took it to a mechanic who drove it (two days later due to being closed for the 4th of July weekend) and said that he didn't experience any problems at all nor were any codes sent to the computer. He serviced the transmission (changed fluids and filter etc), said that the fluid was dirty but there were no metal chunks, and stated that he had driven it three different times afterwards and it was fine. As I was driving it home that day (I live approximately 20 miles from the garage) I began feeling the vibration about a mile before I needed to exit the interstate (I was going about 65 mph). When I got off of the interstate, the car began doing the same thing that it did before, except the O/D off light did not come on this time. My dad drove it back to the mechanic this morning and had no problems out of it at all until he got off of the interstate and began going up a hill, and once again, it began revving with no increased power. Of course, I am fearful that the mechanic will either have no idea what the problem is or tell me that I need an entirely new transmission, which I cannot afford. Has anyone experienced similar problems and perhaps know of a more inexpensive solution?
  • nitahitznitahitz Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem, refer to message #76. I followed the directions and at first I thought it did not work because the check engine light stayed on. But the mechanic told me I had to keep driving it so it can reset which I did and it worked. Its shifting into all gears now. The repair cost me 85 dollars 50 for the part and 35 for the mechanic because I am a female and did not want to get my hands dirty ... lol. Message #76 has been a blessing to many of us and I pray it is the same for you. Good luck. GOD Bless.
  • rhonda25rhonda25 Member Posts: 2
    We recently purchased a used 2003 Ford Focus for our daughter to take to college. The car is now jerking a bit when it is first started but then runs just fine very much like the problems in #279. She claims that the problem started shortly after her father changed the oil..

    any ideas?
  • kiikyokiikyo Member Posts: 1
    I believe that my transmission may be failing... but it is just a suspicion right now based on the symptoms and my research. Perhaps someone could help solidify my suspicions?

    The car is an 01 Focus ZX3. It has been laboring when getting into 3rd gear (~38-45mph?), but this USUALLY happens when going up a hill. Thankfully most of Delaware is FLAT, so it's not always an issue. However, I'm worried that it could become more serious, since I do a lot of long distance driving. Sometimes the car "chugs" or shakes and won't make it past 45 unless I step more on the accelerator or reach flat land. I've read about a solenoid "A" in the transmission being the culprit, but when I talked to a dealership about this they ask me to be more specific, as they do not know which solenoid I am referring to specifically.

    Also, my check engine light is NOT on. But it was on at one point when I was having an extremely difficult time going up a mountain pass in PA (couldn't get about 30mph). Since then it has gone off, and Auto Zone states that they will not do a diagnostic hook-up to the computer if the check engine light is off. Can they still detect a problem if the light is off?? :confuse:

    Thank you for any help.. :)
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Yes codes can be stored in the computer for a period of time as well as some codes do not trigger the check-engine light.

    My local A-Z will hook up even if there is no light, as I am a regular.
    If you tell them the light was on when you left your house and just shut off, they may help you as well.

    Keep us informed
    Good Luck.

    Dean
  • jadkins45jadkins45 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Focus SE miss firing when accelerating, and transmission jerks when it finally gets enough speed to shift into Drive, plus the engine light is on.

    Haven't done anything to it yet because I just bought it.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated?
  • marked1marked1 Member Posts: 15
    It possible that the engine misfiring intermittently when driving only. The check engine light never lights up, no codes stored. May be one of your ignition wires is bad (like mine was, broke and corroded inside a boot), or it could be one of your
    spark plugs. Now, don't let them brake your spark plugs while removing them (they brake way too easy).
    cheers mate.
  • mysedaimysedai Member Posts: 2
    Hey, guys, I'm having some problems with my 2002 Ford Focus SVT, and I was hoping maybe one of you could point me in the right direction.
    The problem seems to be either my clutch of transmission, but I'm leaning toward the clutch at the moment. A month or so ago it made a brief but loud "crunch" when I put the car into reverse with the clutch completely engaged. A few days later, it acted slightly sloggish when I took off from 1st, but was otherwise fine. That happened occasionally, maybe one in ten or twelve times I drove, for a couple weeks, then the whole thing went south fairly quickly.
    Now, it's nearly impossible to start on a hill; the engine will be turning 4500 rms, and the car moves by inches. The tach will flutter going up hills at higher speeds, and I realized by accident a couple of days ago that I can take my foot completely off the clutch while my car is in gear, and it doesn't even notice.
    The car seems to go into all its gears correctly; that is when I'm sitting still and go through the pattern, I hear only the normal sounds it has always made, and it doesn't give me problems when I shift any more or less than any other time. The engine still purrs, but it's like I'm driving with the clutch pressed. Usually, after about ten or fifteen minutes, everything sort of mellows out, especially if I stop an pump the clutch.
    I wanted to check the fluids, but can't find the transaxle resevoir my owner's manual says should be located just right of the middle, near the air filter. I did check the brake/clutch fluid, and when I got it serviced (around the same time the problem started), they seemed to have filled it to the brim. Still, taking the cap off and putting it back on seems to make it a lot better until I turn the car off and restart it.
    Does anybody have any ideas? I'm competent to do minor repairs on my own, and I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty, but if I have to take it for repairs, I like to have an idea about what the problem is and how much is should cost. I have had unscrupulous mechanics try to rip me off a couple times and I know for a fact that doing the homework has saved me nearly a thousand dollars so far! I know the vast majority of mechanics are honest guys, but I'm in a new town and don't know the good guys from the bad guys yet!
    Thanks,
    MySedai
  • rhonda25rhonda25 Member Posts: 2
    where to start on this car...well before we could figure out what was causing the jerking issue...she went to the gas station to fill up and when she went to start the car she couldn't turn the key...turns out Ford Focus has a bad problem with their ignition...we called a lock smith who fixed that issue. Then about a week later her check engine light came on..and it turned out to be the reason for her car jerking, which started to get really bad...but it was an easy fix..it was her spark plugs and spark plug wires.
    She called from college yesterday and she couldn't keep her car started...turns out a mouse or a squirrel chewed the wire from the battery to the starter...she just called earlier tonight and the blinkers stopped working and called a short time later and her car wouldn't start again...could be bad battery or more rodent damage.....

    I am getting tired of this car!
  • kaylynnkaylynn Member Posts: 2
    I have had an issue for about 2 months now. This seems to happen after my car has sat in the sun for the day or first thing in the morning. I'll turn on the car and accelerate and it seems like the car doesn't want to go into 1st gear. The rpm's will go up but the speedometer stays on 0. Sometimes it'll catch in gear and the car will jerk and the tranny light will come on. Then the speedometer works too. Other times, if i slowly press the gas, it'll catch and go. Lately, it takes a few minutes for it to catch into gear. It feels like im drving in neutral. I usually have to restart my car 4 or 5 times before it'll work. Sometimes the speedometer will randomly drop to 0 and there will be dash marks (----) where the odometer reading is. Its odd. I took it to a shop where they hooked it up and nothing came up. One of the workers suggested i try the transmission range sensor. After $80 that didn't work. I took it to a transmission specialist and they said the speed sensor code popped up. My check engine light had turned on around that time too. I'm planning on having that sensor changed soon. I have to find out if it is the input or the output speed sensor though. Has anyone had this happen to them or have the same issue? Thanks
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Just to clarify..Manual 5-speed transmission, correct.
    How many mile on the car??
    Original Clutch??
    Personally, I would first check and see if there is any pedal adjustment available for your car. it sound as if you are slipping terribly (4500 rpm's only moving inches) This is very bad to do to any clutch and will 'smoke' it.
    You fluid-level description seems a bit strange...
    Suggestion....I would start by getting a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for your car. This is a source of much better detail for all basic service and repairs, with many pictures to assist. It sounds like you are competent at the basic stuff and would be a good investment of less than $20.
    Keep us informed.
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Hi Kaylynn, hope we can assist.
    You say, "I'll turn on the car and accelerate and it seems like the car doesn't want to go into 1st gear. The rpm's will go up but the speedometer stays on 0."
    Is the car moving and the speedo stays at 0??

    Can you tell us, mileage of your car, with any recent work done.
    Second, take your car to a place and get the codes scanned for free. You may need to call a few places and explain your situation. Have them scan it and look at the codes yourself as they do it, it is not a big secret thing. Details get lost/filtered in translation.
    A decent parts store will give you a printout of the codes with recommended repairs/parts all for free.
    A speed sensor can cause problems. Most speed sensors now are magnetic, and there is a maintainence item with some of them as they collect a mass of little bits of metal on the tip as the years pass, They can be removed, cleaned, and reused.
    If you allow a shop to just replace things until they find the problem, you may be broke by the time they replace them all.
    Always start with the codes.
    Keep us informed.
  • mysedaimysedai Member Posts: 2
    No, the car has the manual 6 speed transmission, close to 75,000 miles, and I know the previous owner had the clutch replaced. I bought it from a friend of mine when she moved to Japan, so I am pretty well aware of the car's history. She bought it new, and learned to drive a stick in it. The clutch that was replaced was faulty, though. I think that was at about 30,000; I bought the car at about 50,000. By the time the clutch was replaced, she was proficient at driving a manual. Luckily, my parents insisted I learn to drive in a manual ('73 AMC Hornet), so I'd say the clutch has been pretty gently used by me, except for a few people I gave driving lessons to (three of them, at about an hour apiece), and one DD who claimed to know how to drive a stick (If I'd known he was that bad at it, I'd have walked the mile to my house, lol).

    Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question. I genuinely appreciate it.
    -Mysti
  • kaylynnkaylynn Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2010
    Yes, the car moves when the rpms go up and the speedometer says 0. Ther car has roughly 135,000 miles on it.
    Thanks for your suggestions. I took it to a mechanic and 3 codes came up this time. One was for the speed sensor, another was something about the computer and the last was the transmission. The mechanic is going to take out the sensors and clean them and go from there. Hopefully its nothing too big. Thanks again
  • gsparkesgsparkes Member Posts: 1
    130 k when i start and cold my reverise works when tranmission heats up got no reveris but when t do work clunking and baning shaking is my tranmission going changed oil and filter
  • colberttcolbertt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 ford focus ghia which does not go into reverse.It dives perfectly and goes into every other gear but reverse.Can somebody help because all the experts seem to be stumped because the shifters and everything seem to be fine.So it looks to be a transmission problem.Help?
  • nsk2nsk2 Member Posts: 4
    I am afraid at 25,000 miles, my Ford Dealership says I need a new transmission. I am the original owner. It has an automatic transmission. I have the same problem with the overdrive light flashing and the car not going more than about 20 mph while the tach is way up there. When they hooked the car up to the computer, no codes came up. In the time the car was setting the battery died and they said that was why no codes showed up. To make a long story short, they said with the symptoms I described it probably needed a new transmission. The only thing they said was the transmission fluid smelled burnt.

    Of course the warranty was 5 years/100,000 miles and I've had the car for 6 years. They said I would get no help from Ford and after reading all these posts I understand. I am for the Class Action Lawsuit!

    Any suggestions as to what I should do? Will I do more harm to it if I drive it to another service station? It bearly goes above 20 mph. I really don't have the $3,000+ to fix it. And by the way, they did ask me if I wanted to trade it in!
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    OK nsk2, this sound like a sad repetitive story here...
    Can you give more info on your car and current problem? Any check engine light activity at all??
    did it just start to act up?
    Has it been seeming strange for a while??
    Where was it setting when the battery died??
    If there is a trouble code, it will reset. Do you have a bad battery??
    There is not much more to hurt by driving it, aside from getting stranded if the trans is kaput.
  • nsk2nsk2 Member Posts: 4
    Hi dno 36. My car is a sedan, auto trans with a Zetec engine. The check engine light has not been on. My problem is the Over Drive light starts flashing after I drive a few blocks. It happened once before during the winter and the roads were wet, so I thought maybe the roads were icy but nobody else had a problem. Any way the next day it was fine. I kind of ignored that it was slipping as I pulled out from stop signs. One day I stopped to pick up a pizza and the parking lot had a little hill and my car did not want to go up it. The next hill I came to the tac was past 5 and the car was crawling and the overdrive light was flashing! Did manage to get to work the next day by using back roads. My son thought it was my imagination, he took it out and couldn't get much past 30 mph either!

    Parked it for a few weeks and the battery died. Was original battery, guess it was it's time. I also saw a post on how the Focus eats tires. My Perrelli tires were shot at less than 15,000. miles.

    Also to the person who keeps blowing out their rear tail light, mine it also out. All these stories are sadly similar.

    I guess I'll have them put in a new battery and try to get it home. I haven't heard a word from them in about a week. Think they will charge me $100. to put it on the computer even though no codes showed up?
  • TimdrivesafordTimdrivesaford Member Posts: 6
    I don't know if you found any of my posts about a similar issue that I have yet to resolve. My car is a 2005 Focus SE. OverDrive light flashes some, I have a check engine light on. Transmission is rough when I start up and it has a hard time going into drive when I first start. The code on the engine light shows a grounding problem with the speed sensor for the trans (this has been "repaired" several times and keeps popping back up).

    I have had numerous wierd problems over the past two years with this car. Mysterious dead battery; blown anti-theft fuse; alternator shot, new alternator gone bad before the car even left the repair shop; alternator just tested bad diodes, even though battery had just tested 104%; turn and brake lights gone out, although they came back when the engine codes were cleared. I had a new trans put in a year-and-a-half ago. Problems started before that.

    The reapairman who drove it when the brake lights went out said he had someone else run codes and it showed the GEM was bad. I took the car to another shop for another opinon and they said they didn't think that was the problem. They found no code showing anything wrong with GEM (actually, two places have told me that). The tranny people say the car has an electrical problem. The auto electic guy I went to this summer says it needs to go back to the transmission shop.

    I have a feeling I may try to find a new GEM and have that put in and see if it takes care of the problem. I heard they used to only be available through a dealer, but they may now be available aftermarket. I guess I could also find one in a junk yard. Anyone have an idea on the cost of a GEM?
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    This does have the 'earmarks' of an electrical issue. The entire car systems are all electrically driven. Tim's response #348 is similar to your plight, however as he does not have a resolution...
    Personally, I would call around and find a parts or repair shop that will hook up your car to an engine reader for free. They are out there, you will need to make calls. Be straight with them.

    Outside of that, the 1st thing I would check the battery (non-running voltage should be 12.3 - 12.6 volts, and running 14 or so volts) and all of the grounds should be checked as well.

    Blowing a taillight sounds like a shorting (positive contacting ground) issue somewhere. If the voltage regulator is going out, I would think it would effect all of the lights not just 1 of them.

    I am not a Ford mechanic, just someone who shares your pain.

    GL & Keep us informed.
  • nsk2nsk2 Member Posts: 4
    Looks like I'm in for a rough ride. Would get rid of the car if I could! Unfortunately I also have a "96 Ford Explorer with some issues that I was planning to replace first. Think I could trade them both and get one reliable car?

    Anybody know any good repair shops in the Allentown, PA area?

    Keep me posted on your issues. I feel your pain!
  • nsk2nsk2 Member Posts: 4
    Just bailed my car out from the Ford Dealership. Amazingly made it home without any issues and no lights. Charged me $109.95 for a new battery and $24.00 to put it in! That better be a good battery! Charged $40. to see that no codes showed up. New service manager said "It's drive able but I don't know for how long"

    Did run in to old service manager told him my story. Said he would make some phone calls and get back to me. I'm not holding my breath about it, but do appreciate his efforts.

    By the way the exact mileage is 24,253 and it's a Focus ZTS with a 2.3L. It also needs front brake pads and rotors to pass inspection. I'll see who is having a special and have it done there and replace the brake light bulb myself.

    I'll update you on any new developments. No news is good news!
  • bitchincrispbitchincrisp Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    I wouldn't replace the transmission without a proper diagnosis. "Probably" and "smells like" is not a proper diagnosis.

    For example there is a transmission diagnostic test that can be done -- it's kind of like a 'stress test' for the transmission. I had this done on my car. I was told they would run the transmission on a lift or place it on a device to watch how the automatic transmission shifts, speed etc. It's been a while but I think it had something to do with testing the TCM [Transmission Control Module] or testing while hooked to the TCM. The test proved the transmission was fine.

    But if you opt for testing the transmission I would recommend rechecking for engine codes first. Something might be there. Long shot, but might be worth to look before spending to have trans tested. Sometimes the check engine light will not be on but a code may still have been stored. You can buy a scan tool or go to an auto parts store that offers free scanning of trouble codes.

    About the warranty: I was told by Ford (in my case) that if my Manufacturer’s Warranty had expired and if the transmission was found to be broken or 'defective' or it 'failed prematurely', Ford might still replace it.

    Quote from website:

    "As a starting point, if a transmission repair is needed, the first thing your mechanic should do is hook up a scan tool and test the ECM, TCM and every input, sensor, module, controller, etc. on the car. So many times it turns out that the problem does not require you to replace the engine or transmission, or if replacement is needed, the ECM or TCM transmission control module may be the culprit. So, in essence, you can put a replacement transmission in your car and still have a problem."

    "...Ask the technician at the repair shop checking out your car if the electrical system has been scanned or is going to be. If the answer is anything less than “right now”, take your business to another shop."

    Source: http://www.gottransmissions.com/blog/transmission-control-modules-tcm/transmissi- on-repairs-check-engine-control-moduleecm
  • duncanfocusduncanfocus Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Focus Wagon SE, SPI engine. The car has around 215,000 Km (140,000 mi.) on it. The automatic transmission has worked well, but recently has shown some funny behavior when the transmission lockup clutch engages in 4th gear. With light engine load there is a jerky, shuddering feel. This goes away with more load, or if the wheels are pushing the engine.

    I have read some info on this forum and in other forums. The problem could be a worn lockup clutch or solenoid issues. I don't think there are other issues, because I have figured out how to defeat engagement of the lockup clutch. When I do that, the car runs smoothly under all conditions. There are no scan codes being set by this problem.

    How did I defeat engagement of the lockup clutch? I added a resistor in series with the thermistor that measures the ATX fluid temperature. With a 70 K ohm resistor in series, the engine control unit thinks the fluid is cool, and doesn't let the lockup clutch engage. The line pressure seems higher as well, so the shifts are firmer.

    However, I don't want to permanently defeat the lockup clutch and give up good gas mileage. So I am wondering if anyone has advice on how I could further analyze this problem. I have read on the forum that solenoid B controls the lockup clutch, but that solenoid C also plays a role. I thought that solenoid B would be either on or off and could not therefore cause the jerky feel. But it is hard to know. I have not been able to find a good technical explanation of how the engine control unit controls these solenoids for lockup clutch control. I have a DVD of the "factory" manual, but even it is not clear. Throttle position, MAF, temperature, etc. all seem to play a role.

    If I thought that changing some solenoids would fix the problem, I would do that. I am not so sure about getting a new torque converter or re-built transmission installed. That would be expensive, probably more than the car is worth.

    DuncanFocus
  • cfarrellcfarrell Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Focus that will buck when I'm going up a slight incline at about 45 mph & about 1500 rpm. It only does this when it's in overdrive. The engine doen't rev & it's the only transmission issue I have, but I'm concerned that it may become worse.

    The check engine light has not lit up. I replaced the "A" solenoid tonight & that did not solve the problem. Does the car have to driven more than about 10 miles for the new solenoid to make a difference?

    The car has 145,000 & also has a couple of other other issues (bad rear bearing & it needs front brakes & needs new tires). I'm thinking that it may be time to get rid of the car, but other than these problems it's really in great shape. I had the A/C, the timing belt & the rear brakes\cylinders\drums\lines replaced this summer. That wasn't cheap, but I was planning to keep the car for awhile longer. Now, heading into winter, I'm not so sure I wantr to keep it given the issue w\the transmission.

    Does anyone have any insight inot the transmission issue I'm having? Can I fix it myself (cheaply), will if get worse if I don't fix it? How long will it last with this problem?

    Thank you for reading & I look forward any replies!
  • krimandakrimanda Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Ford Focus SE . When I am driving the car 'HESITATES' when it tries to go into 1st gear then again 2nd. The motor revs to 3.5 -4 rpm's when it is trying to switch gears. My husbabd changed the transmission fluid and filter and the problem still exists. I am wondering if this is the clutch plate going bad? Anyone who has an idea it would be greatly apprecieated!!! HELLLP! :
  • cfarrellcfarrell Member Posts: 5
    Problem solved!! I took the car to the dealer & explained the problem to them. I also told them what I had done to date & that I did not want them to take the tranny apart to look at the problem. I let them know that I felt that it was an electrical problem, but that the Check Engine light never came on. They said they could do a "deeper" check of the codes.

    They found that one of my engine cylinders was only firing about 73% of the time. They suggested replacing the spark plug wires & the coil (for about $470), which I had them do. The car no longer bucks! And it has a lot more pep!

    I hope this helps anyone else having this issue.
  • longfrancelongfrance Member Posts: 19
    Had typical A-Solenoid problem as many people here. Have 127,500 miles on the car and just spent the $150 for the fix ($50 solenoid, $100 for filter/gasket/oil & labor to install).

    I didn't see too many follow-ups indicating how the fix worked and how long it has lasted. Hoping this fix works!!!

    By the way, other car is '05 Scion xB with 138,000 miles and NO major problems whatsoever... FYI.
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    18 + months into the repair, 23K miles, no additional trans issues here.
    Other issues yes, but not trans related.
    Dean
  • phxfocusphxfocus Member Posts: 4
    Ok so i have an 03 focus which i think has the famous a solenoid prob but not sure. my car when you put it in drive it takes a few seconds to engage and then shifts up fine. It acts up when you go to accelerate or climb an overpass and it shifts down it slips then jumps into gear. I had the trans out and took it out because it took out the front planetary hub splines. fixed that but it still has the shift problem. anybody have any ideas.
  • dno36dno36 Member Posts: 71
    Scan it for codes.....if it comes back 0750...refer to post #110.
    GL
    D
  • phxfocusphxfocus Member Posts: 4
    scan for codes with my code reader and get nothing. the ! light or the check engine light have never even flashed when this happens think ill spend the 50 to see if it works.
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