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Comments
Purchase a 12 volt test light ( $5.00- $10.00 ) unplug L.R. stoplight socket and check for a flashiing 12V with the ign turned ON and the L. turnsignal ON,and the bulb removed. If no power there, find connector, unplug and test there.
let me know what you find.
Cliff
Run these tests and let me know,
Cliff
clifford20@comcast.net
2: cigarette lighter does not work
3: dashboard light go off when driving sometimes. I have to turn off and back on again , sometimes they stay on, sometimes not.
4:door locks and trunk lock only work manually
Not sure where to begin~fuses?
Checked all fuses, all were good.
Bought a new cigaretter lighter(socket & lighter), still not working.
The horn went out gradually so I am assuming I just need to replace it.
Any other ideas?
have a helper hit the horn button while you watch the light, if it lights. replace horn. if it does not light. check for a bad horn relay, find the relay and swap with another 1 of the same size. NOTE the horn button grounds the horn relay, you can check horn button at the relay connectors. find the hot wire (hot all the time) find a dead connector and connect ground end of light ,then have a helper hit the horn button and the test light should light, if not ,try another post,and so on.
check these items and let me know.
Cliff
clifford20@comcast.net
Everyone agree with that?
People get pissed off at me sometimes when I buy a car and test drive it. I try to drive for 30-45 minutes at least. It gives the car plenty of time to warm up and [hopefully] let any intermittent problems the car might be having. I know the older Focuses have quite a few issues from what I've gathered by reading in the forums - maybe electrical issues...but I would LIKE to think that Ford only improved on that and any later model would be much more dependable.
In the end, elecrical issues suck and are sometimes impossible to track down - especially if they are intermittent and only happen occasionally...those are the worst because it has to be failing before you can really diagnose it in most cases. I'm in no way an ace mechanic, but you'd be surprised at how many times I've saved myself from being ripped off by just driving the car a few extra miles and spending a little more time with it.
I had one guy leave only a tiny bit of gas in the car I was thinking about buying and said "just go around the block..." I told him I'd put gas in it, that I'd prefer he go with me and drive around for a few minutes - he refused and said another buyer was coming and he didn't want to miss him. The best part is that about 2 weeks later, I saw the car on the side of the road and a teenager was standing next to it. I stopped to see if he needed help and he explained that he bought the car and (LOL) immediately put gas in it and drove home. Poor kid said he didn't get 2 miles and it started overheating. It turned out to have a blown head gasket, and the jackass he bought it from had just changed the oil and water to hide it and let it limp by through the test drives. As long as it didn't get up to operating temp the head gasket was all but undetectable. I suggested he go drive it through the sellers front door. "Around the block", indeed.
Cor
it should rise up to 14.2 to 14.6 but not much higher.
If voltage is not within spec. check ALL battery cables from battery to starter and battery to ground ( BOTH ENDS ) must be tight CLEAN & TIGHT
Let me know
Cor
Also, I think you have an acc. modual (mounted under dash, about mid way) that controls all
acc. radio, gauges, door locks,wipers, heater, but I'm not sure about the the headlights. that
may be a diff.problem. I would not be in a hurry to replace the main computer.
Keep me posted,
Cliff
Cor
Cor
Cheak voltage across battery posts with eng running. should not exceed 14.2-14.6 Volts.
If it is over this it can boil the battery and warp the plates, ruin the battery and then burn up the alternator. This usually happens with cheap after market parts. INFO ONLY
Thanks
Chris
After much frustration I got rid of the car. I loved the car as it was fun to drive and ok on mpg's but she just did' nt treat me right. Good Luck!
Oh and by the way, no more Fords for this guy.......
I'd try replacing that shift sensor my man. Her's doesn't jump out of gear anymore. It was failing like that WAY before it popped the code too, so you may have no codes and that thing is bad. GO Ford.
Also, make sure BOTH ends of your battery Neg & Pos cables are CLEAN & TIGHT.
IT ALSO WONT HURT TO RUN ANOTHER GOOD GROUND CABLE FROM THE BATT NEG TO THE BODY.
Check battery with a cheap digital volt meter ( $5.00 at Harbour Freight ) It should read 11.5 -
12,00 V. with every shut off, and 14.2 - 14.5 V when running at about 1000 RPM.
If it goes 15V replace the alt with a Good brand of alt. Motorcraft or NAPA.
Does anybody know why the light keeps blinking? I'm afraid it could effect my car battery,could this be possible?
Pls advice.
I'm concern that there could be an electrical short but if that's the case then its kool.
Make sure BOTH end of battery cables are clean and tight. Also check red wire at the alt, for any sign of corrosion.
Let me know what you find.
Cliff
I drive a 2001 ZTS. I've got an odd problem: I can't get my accessories to work most of the time. By accessories I mean my air conditioning/heat, power windows, windshield wipers, brake lights, or gear shifter. However, my headlights, interior lights, gauges and radio always work.
If I sit there and flip the ignition to the "accessory" position enough (without actually cranking the car), sometimes it will eventually come on. But lately it hasn't been working at all. The fact that it will intermittently work leads me to think it's not a fuse, all though I haven't checked them.
I would assume I'm either having some issue with the ignition switch, or there's some sort of wiring problem. Any help would be appreciated. Not only am I riding dangerously with no brake lights or windshield wipers, it's also just miserably hot!!
You can drop your steering column which is usually held to the dash with 4 nuts on studs. You may need to remove a trim panel under the steerimg column. After dropping the steering column, you should see the ign sw mounted on the top of column with 2 - 10mm nuts, pay CLOSE attn. where the rod from the cly & key goes into the ign sw. DO NOT MOVE KEY. Check the wiring connector on top of sw for any sign of burning, if found you will have to replace. NAPA or a Ford dealer should have this part. If OK replace the Switch, If wiring connector needs replaced, repl sw also.
Cliff
The starting issues arnt all the time but are more often than not. Ill turn the key and it will sound like its trying to start but either no fuel is getting to the engine or no spark. I have to turn it back off and try again several times before it will start. Odd thing is that even tho it is fuel injection if i pump the pedal it will start or if i leave it trying to start for a few seconds it will stutter then start. Iv done an engine clean with seafoam and dont use cheap gas.
The headlights are supposed to come on when the accessories do, but mine dont tend to anymore. I have to drive with my highway lights on if im driving at night and other drivers dont appreciate being blinded. I replaced the bulbs and it still happens. ill have to either turn the car off and on several times to maybe get them to work or sometimes (rarely) they will come on (or off if they were on) if i go over a bump. im hoping its not a break in the wire.
Could the two issues be connected?