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I suggest swapping fuses out. See if it helps. No real clue here.
thank you this is my first post.
EDIT: This being the entire electrical system shuts off.
I was wondering if you have figured out what makes it do that? It's completly got my mechanic stumped as well!
Thanks
I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT 3.8L V6 with 97,500 miles on it. Recently my DIC (driver information center) decides to go out. When this happens my headlights flash on and off and my heater quits blowing heat. The lights on the heater still display, but flicker.
I have been reading a lot about the ignition switch and wire harness causing this problem. I am ready to buy the part, the only problem is my father which is my mechanic does not believe that the ignition switch can cause these kinds of problems.
Please help me should I buy the part and replace it???????
My car is a 1994 grand prix- 237 000km. I recently had my alternator and serp belt replaced (used alternator). Since then, I have had lights on my dash randomly going on and off. The most frequent is the airbag light. As this occurs, the heat seems to accelerate for a second, along with the headlights and dashlights at night time. Other flickering lights include: ABS and battery light.
I have taken it to 2 garages to do a charge test, and the reports have both been that the alternator and battery are charging just fine.
I am feeling stumped! Is my car at risk of breaking down on me at the side of the road? What could be the next step? Is it time to junk it? Thank you!
Thank you
Its a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 3.1l
176,000 Miles
Spark plugs and wires changed 9-1-10
Oil changed every 3000 as well as any typical maitenance that is required. basically I babied this POS..lol.
Belt was changed at the same time as the plugs.
Transmission flused 8-1-10
My issue is this-
When my car is on, I go to turn my a/c on and the headlights shut off as well as the a/c. The a/c comes on for a split second and then bam, both running lights and a/c shut off.
I only noticed the headlight part of this problem a week ago when I was driving home in 95 degree weather at dusk and almost hit some dude in front of me because I had turned my a/c on which stayed on for about ten minutes before shutting off as well as the headlights. I realized that I could turn my headlights to "on" and they would work. On Auto they do not. They break lights go out as well.
If I turn the A/C on BEFORE I start my car, it works. But only on the lowest setting. If I try to turn the A/C up the A/C shuts done with the headlights.
Am I making any sense so far?
I currently have a Service Engine Soon light. Which stays on for a day or so than shuts off. I'm pretty sure that means something with the emission system. Gas cap was changed as well as the fuel filter, no dice.
The dash also is displaying an outline of a car, do not know what that means.
When I start the car and idle, I can fill it shake very softly. Almost like its going left to right. I changed the serp belt and it stopped...for a day.
I really do not want to drop more money into this car. Its just a daily driver that collects the miles so my beamer doesn't.
Thanks for your time people! I hope I made sense explaining my problem.
I would like to set up a case with GM Customer Assistance. Could you please email me your complete contact information (including full name, mailing address and telephone number), VIN, current mileage and involved dealership? Also, please include a brief description of the issue you are experiencing.
Thank you and have a great weekend!
Caron, GM Customer Service
Having owned 53 cars in my lifetime, this car is a pain..My 1998 Olds Intrigue which GM repurchased at 26k miles was less of a problem..My 2002 Intrigue original battery died around 100k..The hot Florida weather takes it's toll.
Update, car started, charging at 15 volts..had to reset the year, month and date..It sounded a little wimpy on the cranking cycle, so something on the charging side is probably amiss..
Darby Buick in Venice, Fla was my dealer until they gave me a "freebie alignment check", installed 4 new Hankook and the rears flat spotted within 6000 miles, and I junked the tires. Installed 4 new T-rated Michelin Harmony tires and had the local Chevy dealer realign the car, of course the rear struts had to be reslotted.. The Buick dealer would not take the responsibility for the "phony alignment" causing the rear tires to "flat spot"..so they are on my list of dealers to avoid.. They also do "Road Force Balancing" which requires skill and their lack of skill in conjunction with the alignment fiasco cost me a few hundred bucks..
The Grand Prix GT comes with H-rated tires due to the 135+ top end, however the Harmony tires inflated to 36# cold handle the high end and last alot longer..50k+ miles...
When the 2nd battery failed, I was at a cemetery on a late Sunday afternoon and GM road service did the scene, and I was able to drop the car off at the dealer Sunday evening..Left instructions and Darby service mgr wanted $300 for the battery when I arrived to pick up the car..Not a chance of getting any money out of me for it was totally covered by warranty..When the 2002 Olds Intrigue battery died, AAA picked the car up and took it to Palm Chev in Ocala on a Saturday morn and I picked it up couple hrs later with a new GM battery installed for less than $200..
I think the Pontiac is up for disposal if a quick solution isn't found for dead batteries, ain't worth the grief..Sold my 2010 Mustang GT last week for I want the new 5.0 Stang Conv w/track pkg..About 60% of cars owned have been GM, however, times are changing..Electrical problems are best left to the next owner to solve..for it is usually a series of check writing paying for another "bad call"..
The heat in Florida is a killer, and most of my driving in retirement is not freeway speeds, but local stop & go..with the average around 40 miles daily..
All electrical systems are good, no problems, a/c is great, and the supercharged 260 hp V-6 likes to rock and on I-75..It gets the triple digit speedo test every available opportunity, so we shall keep this car for a few more thousand miles..The truck holds 4 golf bags whereas the Mustang truck is not that roomy, but offers positive vibs in the driving area..Nothing beats a V-8 upfront and RWD, the rumble is pleasing to the ears..
Heads up all you Grand Prix fans, don't spend alot of money chasing problems on old cars, sell it and update your ride for driving pleasure and piece of mind..Compared to the great Pontiacs of yore, the W-body version is a joke..I had 3 GPs of the mid-70's era with big-block V-8s, and they were movers..The old 3.8 engine doesn't compare..The S/C 3.8 is okay and comes alive at the higher end...
Good luck on the finding the cure....................
I understand and apologize for your frustration. Have you spoke with Customer Assistance? Has the dealer involved technical assistance? I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I use a small 2-man shop started by ex-GM mechanics who are well versed and the main owner was employed by this GM dealer..This small shop is a "Tire Rack" installer and an expert on balancing which is one of my hangups to fun motoring..I strive for "shake-free" driving for having spent years in fast lane, I will not tolerate vibration..
Next Friday I have an appt for oil change and tire rotation at this small shop along with checking out the battery cables at the starter for corrosion..Also there is some creaking in the front end under initial acceleration which is part of the platform eng/tran setup common to the W body, a cheap alternate to regular eng/tran mounting systems..
At 57k miles, I am still on the original brakes with no signs of warped rotors, and this small shop is great on brake repair, had a Camry done here, and a Jeep Cherokee in the last year..The biggest cause of rotor problems is the over tighting of lug nuts..
My seat problem in the 06 GT is no big problem, just a another sign of lack of quality...
http://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/recalls.html?year=2006&make=&model=&style- Id=100543801&engCode=6VSCG3.8&transCode=AUTOMATIC&mileage=68000&zip=64075&type=r- ecall
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Share your vehicle reviews
I can check for recalls with the VIN, but I am not aware of a list of those affected, nor do I know of a public website where you can get this information. If you would like for me to check if your vehicle has a recall, just email me your VIN.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Had a steering knuckle replaced on a 2002 Olds Intrigue at around 100k..original owner..Chevy dealer spotted the problem. No loss of control or frt shake..
I would be happy to see if your vehicle has a recall. Please email me your VIN.
You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
After reading through the helpful info in this forum, this morning I am thinking of pulling the battery connectors and shorting them together for 5 minutes to drain all capacitors, and reconnect to reboot the system. What can it harm?
Also, not sure this is relevant, but when I popped the hood LOTS of metal parts were HOT. Almost could not touch some of them, although the outside temp was around 65 and the car had been sitting off for about a half hour (after sitting in slow rush hour traffic for more than an hour). I left the hood up for a while and things cooled down, but when I tried to start again, same dash indicator lights came on (Both solid Turn Signals and High Beam). Very strange condition that I have not seen in my 40+ years of driving many makes of cars.
I am open to all suggestions, and where to check (like certain relays, etc.) so please respond with your ideas. If my planned electrical reboot fails, I will try to examine all fuses in the day light. Again, I am thinking multiple relays, etc. may have all blown at the same time, since this is such an unusual combination of symptoms. Thanks in advance for your advice. Rick
Thank you
Thank you
Any ideas where to start looking for this wonderful intermittent problem?
Thank you,
Mike
My message center and heater display will flash or go black and the fan for my heater/ac will shut off or blow in the wrong area (blows at feet when should be on defrost. Both displays display incorrect information as well?
Did you ever find out what the problem was?