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Sarah, GM Customer Service
Thanks for responding! I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand prix GT with a 3.8L v6. Fully Loaded.
We first noticed an electrical issue when the DIC started to go dim and reset itself off and on. It has gotten progressingly more frequent and when the DIC is lit, it displays incorrect information. Now, it is usually does not display at all.
Now we are having a similar problem with the heater display. It starts flashing or quits displaying entirely. When it is flashing, the heater fan does all sorts of weird things. It either blows really high or blows in the wrong location or doesn't work at all.
I personally think it is an electrical short somewhere. I've read in the forum that changing the ignition switch helps in some cases. This is a $300 part and I don't want to replace it and still have the same issues. My mechanic wants me to bring it in to get it diagnosed but I have had computer/electrical issues with a previous vehicle and it is extremely hard to diagnose (and very costly).
Have you already checked out the fuses and relays (there is a section in your manual starting on p. 5-95 if you're not familiar with where the fuse blocks are located; it includes a diagram of what fuse corresponds to what vehicle function)? I checked my other resources, but was unable to find any specific things to look into aside from that (I apologize - my technical resources are limited).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Also now today I thing I have some kind of sensor going bad in my shifter counsel. Often I cannot get my key out when I park my car. However, if I play with my shifter until I hear a little click in the dash (relay) I can then turn the key back and release it.
Not happy for a car that I baby and has only 60k on it for a 2003.
Check the relay and also check the heated seat element (it is the metal mat located inside of the seat that heats up).
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks again,
Mike
The headlight problems continue...
My 2006 GP now has 175000+ miles on it and the problem with the headlights continues. Occasionally the headlights will just go out but the car doesn't recognize that the lights are off. Everything else works fine. I have twice replaced the relay in the fuse box and now the daytime running lights were staying on. I took it to an "auto electric" specialist who could not figure out the problem but did succeed in charging me $350. I took it to the dealer who spent hours looking but again, no solution. Now the DRL are staying on after the car is off. At least the dealer didn't charge me anything. The relay was hot as hell so I again replaced it which shut off the lights after the car was off but something is frying these relays and I have no idea what. You might think 175000 miles is time to go, but the car is in absolutely perfect shape, I have done all maintenance since brand new and I am not ready to give up on it just yet. Any ideas would be appreciated as I think there must be something in the under hood fuse box causing the relay to heat up to the point of malfunctioning.
Thanks for any ideas!
My GP is a 2001, 127,000 miles, reading this wonderful forum I think this problem is the ign switch or a grounding problem.
Since fall my problem is: I would shut her off, turn her back on no DIC, heater fan, dash lights, headlights, heated seats... Can turn headlights on manual & get dash lights. Radio is fine, think the overheads work. Sometimes would be driving & all this would go out.
Sometimes in the beginning I could shut her off & on & it all came back.
Lately I've noticed. If it's not working when I turn her on, about 5 minutes down the road all comes on & stays on until I shut her off. Or it comes on for 5-10 seconds, shut off again & about 5-10 minutes comes on...usually stays on until she's shut off.
Last night it did three cycles of on off on for 10-15 minutes, off for a minute then stayed on.
No lights come after I manually put on head & dash lights. The only odd thing is this whole time I'll get a low coolant light, but once the temp gauge moves off of 160, my lowest temp, the light goes off...& this is about this about the time all the electrical things come back.
One other thing...I had the ignition switch replace maybe in 2013, summer, the key was stuck in the ignition.
And if you ever have the traction control drop off, it's wheel sensors whether they show bad or not..
Hopefully someone can tell me if they think it's a ground popping off & on or I need another ignition switch (& is it still effect if you fix it once you shouldn't have to pay again for same part at dealer?
Thanx!
You're quick. I came to post those downloaded (from bbbind.com page) and to comment that it's going to take some troubleshooting with a voltage meter to find where the power is dropping out.
Like the poster said, I'd start with checking power at the relay. There is a fuse under the hood and a circuit breaker in the Instrument Panel fuse box to check for continuity and for power.
Not for the weak hearted. But check for power at the obvious places first: Law of Parsimony. Simplest often is the place.
As to the blowers, most GM's have a power feed for the lower power draw throught the resistor pack. If the last wire (or circuit) int he resistor pack blows out, none of those lower speeds work. There is usually a fuse on that line. Then there's a second higher fused circuit that gets power to the highest speed through less wiring because it's a higher draw. Check both fuses and the resistor pack.
OP can get a circuit diagram for the blower at bbbind.com. Just register and use DIY as your company. It's a great resource. Members at autozone.com can get similar diagrams.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
AC and low beams to not work on switch setting 1, 2, 3, or 4
Lights work on OFF setting and 5 (WITH AC / /BLOWING)
Replaced the DIC/HVAC 10 AMP fuse for lower settings.
Idk what is wrong now.
Do you have schematics for the circuits not working? I can walk you through this but this is not an easy circuit and it includes the DRL control module.